Crankbrothers' previous Stamp 1 flat pedals were lacking in one key area – grip. The composite platform had a raised section around the axle that made them more slippery than grippy, a trait that made them less-than-ideal in rougher terrain. Luckily, there's now an updated version, with an extra pin on each side (bringing the total up to 10), and a revised shape that provides substantially more traction than before.
The new platform shape is still more flat than concave – there's just a 1mm different between the outer edges and the axle – but the tall pins around the perimeter make it feel like the difference is much greater, allowing shoe soles to sink into the pedal for a secure, locked-in feel.
Stamp 1 V2 Details• Platform size: 114 x 111 or 100 x 100
• Thickness at center: 13.5mm
• Composite platform
• Chromoly spindle, IGUS bushings
• 10 replaceable pins per side
• Weight: 348 grams (large) / 321 grams (small)
• 5-year warranty
• $59.99 USD
crankbrothers.com There are two platform sizes available to accommodate different size feet – the Large size measures 114 x 111mm, and the Small size measures 100 x 100mm. The platform is 15.4mm thick at the outer edges, and 13.5mm at the center, with a slight bulge from the bearing at the inboard portion of the pedal.
The pedals spin on chromoly axles and Igus bushings, the same internals found in the aluminum-bodied Stamp 7 pedal. The Stamp 1 pedals are priced at $59.99 USD, and are available with a black, red, navy blue, purple, or orange platform.
I have a handful of rides in on the new Stamps so far, and I can say without hesitation that these are much better than the previous generation. I wore a pair of Specialized 2FO Roost shoes when using them, and didn't have any complaints about the amount of grip. The big platform is easy to find after taking a foot off, and offers plenty of support for longer rides or bigger impacts. I'll be running these through the winter to see how they hold up, but so far things are off to a good start.
Hard to replicate that amount of grip without the same number of pins. The only thing I look for in my flat pedals is maximum grip (because pedal slips are brutal) and a large-enough platform.
You blind hatred for crank brothers is seething through your skin bro.
Classic crankbros. They strike a balance between being slightly different and being almost exactly the same.
I don't wear shoes with stiff af soles though only vans pro-s and a 510 freerider. These pedals often go for around €42 where I live, they are quite light and I even like the looks. And I swear this comment was totally not sponsored by Crankbrothers New Stamp 1 Composite Flat Pedals
I also have a pair of the Stamp 3's (Aluminum) and I've been happy with them for 4 years now with no complaints. They've got a lot more grip than the Stamp 1's, and have been reliable so far, without any real problems to speak of. They are needing a bearing replacement now, but I don't think thats to unreasonable after 4 years.
Deftraps / OneUp > Wah Wah
I've had lots of trouble with rear entry pins.... if they bend a bunch you have to find a way to snip off the bent part or bend them back and then try not to round out the other side that holds the nut in place while you extract them.
Grub screws for life!
On the bright side, the holes don't strip or ovalize easily because they're a relatively large diameter and the screws thread in pretty deep (in aluminum, at least). Some companies thread in pins from the other side, but then the threaded diameter is small and they only have them going through ~2mm of aluminum, so after smashing the pins into a couple rocks the threads either strip out or the holes ovalize enough that the pins just fall out.
Grub screw will be difficult to pull, pedal might get damaged.
Rear entry screw, you just snip it with a set of cutters, thread out what’s left. Worse case, you drill out the screw. Since the nut isn’t attached, easy to replace.
Grubs
Pros: gripper (maybe), can be extracted with some locking needle nose pliers if enough of the grub screw remains to grab ahold of.
Cons: May require that you drill out the grub screw if not enough of it remains to extract with locking pliers, Threadsdirectly into the pedal body and if the impact damages that interface, that screw is toast unless you can rechase/retap it.
Rear loading bolt screws
Pros: if the screw thread into nuts (like in most composite pedals) the entire interface can be replaced if damaged beyond repair.
Cons: usually requires cutting off the pin head to extract if threads are damaged. If you have a dremel tool w a thin cutting wheel like I do, it takes less than 2 mins.
So for me, I like composite pedals w rear loading bolts into nuts. Easiest combo for me to replace and the least likely combo where a pin become unusable bc the threads in the pedal body are damaged beyond repair.
Why would I buy these instead of 1up?
Another inferior CB product-yay
Maybe they’ll fix it in 20 years like Eggbeater bearings. Or go through 3-4 iterations before they work-like their droppers.
Just don't understand all the hate when clearly this guy has never ridden them. Hell, they were released a few hours ago and the man already claims they're inferior. Sounds like a salt miner to me
Grub screws always suck.
So..,,,,CB made a pedal with a worse shape and pin design. And they sure do have a loooong track record of bad parts they don't fix for years at a time. Their wheels are fine, their current dropper is fine, their gravity pedals let you move your foot around more like a flat pedal, so DH racers like 'em. So, hate? No. But it does annoy that a company built on a lousy tire lever and flimsy pedals has thrived.