PINKBIKE FIELD TEST
Norco Range C1
Words by Matt Beer, photography by Tom RichardsThere are plenty of enduro bikes that claim to keep up with downhill bikes, but the 2022 Norco Range has the suspension to actually back it up, along with geometry that allows you to pedal to the top. It’s certainly garnered a lot of interest following the high pivot design trend and Transformer-like lines. We've seen the sharp looking bike appear at the Enduro World Series and a modified iteration on the World Cup Downhill circuit with a dual crown fork.
All of the models in the lineup feature 170 mm of front and rear wheel travel and exclusively use carbon fiber construction due to the complex shapes and voids. The frame can accept a 180 mm dual crown fork because this rig is as close to a downhill bike as it gets.
Range Details • Travel: 170 mm front / 170 mm rear
• Wheel size: 29”
• Head angle: 63.25° (size L)
• Seat tube angle: 77°
• Reach: 480 mm (L)
• Chainstay length: 442.5 mm
• Sizes: S, M, L (tested), XL
• Weight: 37.05 lb / 16.80 kg (w/ control tires)
• Price: $8,999 USD
•
norco.com Starting at $5,599 USD, the Range C3 gets treated to a Shimano Deore/SLX drivetrain and a RockShox ZEB. Our top of the line Range C1 was spec’d with We Are One carbon rims on Onyx Vesper hubs, a Fox 38 Factory Grip 2 fork and SRAM Code RSC brakes for $8,999. In the middle is the C2 model for $6,999 or there is a frame and shock kit available for $3,799 to custom build yourself.
The virtual high pivot design is a departure from the previous generation Range and the new frame must be used with a coil shock; either a Fox DHX2 or RockShox Super Deluxe, due to clearance constraints and to match the leverage ratio.
Norco poured a ton of research and development into this suspension design. They applied their “Ride Aligned” system to adapt the angles and wheelbase for different size riders. Depending on the chainstay length, the main link arm and dropouts can change to keep the leverage rate optimized across sizes.
There are four sizes with the smallest starting with a 420 mm reach and increasing by 30 mm per size. Our size large had a generous 641 mm stack and 1285 mm wheelbase. The size small frame receives a 63.75º head tube and 76.50º seat tube angle. As you move up in frame size, those numbers decrease and increase by a quarter degree, respectively. This keeps a sky high seat on the XL frame further forward on the bike to avoid any unwanted wheelies while climbing.
Mullet rockers listen up. Dual 29" wheels must be used, but that doesn’t deter the Range from slaying jumps or cornering hard. During extensive testing, Norco received feedback from shorter riders that said butt buzzes from the 29” wheel were not an issue, due to the completely rearward axle path. I would still like to see an option to run a 27.5” rear wheel, making the bike easier to throw around at low speed. The bolt on dropouts would make this arrangement a cinch to swap out, but Norco has a firm stance that you should not play Mr. Potato Head with the size-specific parts - they will negatively affect the kinematics.
Speaking of bolts, there is a boatload of them. The Range’s exploded view document lists over eighty unique parts, but can accept SRAM’s universal derailleur hanger (UDH). There are also a ton of nooks and crannies for dirt to creep in between. During our two weeks of pushing this bike to the limit at Sun Peaks Resort, the dirt conditions were all time and not extremely dusty. We washed the bike frequently, but never experienced any creaking or loose hardware, although its something to keep in mind for longer term usage.
ClimbingThe Range loves a shuttle or chairlift to the top. It’s not going to knock down climb KOMs, but the lower gears allow it to twiddle up any climb. A steep seat tube angle keeps your hips more vertically inline with your feet, over the bottom bracket, and also straightens your back. With a bike of this nature, you do have to lean forwards a touch to keep the front wheel from understeering on tight switchbacks, but for steep pitches, it’s not going to loop out.
There is a climb switch to maximize efficiency, but the anti-squat level wards pedal-bob well and the bike has more traction on technical climbs with it the shock open. I preferred to rely on the "cheater switch" exclusively for surfaced climbs.
How about that idler? Well, it’s fairly quiet as the chain passes over the 18 tooth jockey wheel, which is larger than some other high pivot bikes, but there is still some noticeable drag when pedalling at lower speeds. This was most apparent when pushing through the twelve and six o’clock positions at a low cadence in the taller three cogs, basically any super steep grind. The chainguide uses a tab instead of a lower pulley wheel to keep the things on track, lowering chain wrap on the ring, but we never once had any drivetrain hiccups.
Looming below the chainguide skid plate is the lower rocker link. I did strike the link a few times while navigating some uphill rocks and lurching over logs, but it is a beefy chunk of aluminum with a thick plastic guard. Plus, it rotates out of the way when the suspension is compressed. It's only really on slower speed maneuvers where it could potentially make contact if you're off-line.
Descending
So, are all of those intricacies worth the trade off for ultimate bump control and descending prowess? Hell yes. This really is a bike that's capable of keeping up with downhill bikes.
I kept wanting to call the Range the “Shore”, but that’s Norco’s 27.5 wheeled, aluminum freeride bike with a traditional high pivot Horst Link. I couldn’t imagine a riding zone more suited to the Range than Vancouver’s North Shore. A pure downhill bike with 200 mm of travel can be cumbersome in those steep, janky trails that the area is known for and sometimes require low gearing to get to the goods.
On jump tracks at Sun Peaks, the Range’s rearward axle path carried speed, but didn’t buck your weight forward as the wheel returned to full travel. In combination with generous standover height and seat clearance, the low center of gravity provided a secure feeling of being “in the bike” as opposed to on top of the bike.
The Range just eats bumps of any size and its linear kinematic nature could be compared to jumping onto an airbag versus landing on a trampoline. Energy is absorbed early and then dissipated, always using the right amount of travel. This made it dead simple to anticipate how the bike would react on any size impact and give you time to position your body weight accordingly. It was a touch firmer early in the stroke - not harsh, but more supportive than the Enduro. That virtual high pivot delivered traction on off-camber root sections and a gentle progression to handle large g-outs. Rarely did I find the bottom out bumper, even on stupidly long sends, well beyond the transition. The DHX2 coil shock was a breeze to setup and the clickers were very close to what Norco recommended using their Ride Align web tool. Given more time, I might experiment with a Sprindex system, to further fine tune the rate to something a touch softer than the 450 lb spring our size large came with.
If we dig a bit deeper, the head tube angle is a cool 63.25º, which is slack, but I found the dynamic geometry to be less aggressive than that of the Transition Spire. The chainstay static measurement is 442.5 mm and continues to grow through the travel, with both axles moving rearward. I found that to be a great balance of grip, playfulness, and balance between the front and rear centers.
A traditional four-bar linkage design keeps your center of gravity more neutral between the axles as the bike moves into the travel. Some high pivot bikes can push your weight forward when the bike compresses, but I never felt this on the Range. Nor did I notice any wild anti-rise effects from braking, like some single high pivots can induce. The bonus of the four-bar, virtual high pivot is that the braking forces can be separately tuned by mounting the brake on the chainstay.
The whole package of the high pivot and silent Onyx hub made for an almost eerie ride, like that of an electric vehicle. High pivot bikes can get a bad wrap for being sluggish at lower speeds, but I think that's just a perceived speed. They have that ability to mute terrain and propel you through bumps, instead of over them.
All that silence makes it easier to detect other sounds. From time to time, there was the odd tap from the housings inside the carbon frame that may have needed more insulation. The chainguide forgoes a lower pulley to reduce friction, but the chain did touch the pivot below the BB in the worst sections of washboard. Smashing out downhill runs on an enduro bike shed light on the tiniest flaws, but the Range was one of the quietest bikes on test.
Another note on cable management was the dropper post cable routing. It uses a small piece of hardware to pinch against the frame in the shock basement. The access was a tight squeeze and easy to crush the housing. Those are the couple of quirks you have to deal with when the first and foremost priority is suspension performance.
Norco proved that their super-enduro Range is a very adaptable and capable descender, picking up a win at the infamous Mount 7 Psychosis race last season and a podium at the Canadian National Downhill Championships this year. They’ve bridged the gap between downhill and enduro racing with a bike that can be pedalled for stage races, with a focus on absolute bump eating characteristics. It’s a machine that is really going to tempt some riders to condense their quiver of bikes; sell the downhill and long-legged trail bike and have one bike to handle shuttles and the bike park, but also access pedal-only descents.
I just picked up a used 2020 sight a1 literally because I felt like it was the perfect blend between downhill and pedaling, something I could throw a 155mm coil on the rear with a 170mm lyrik up front for the whistler trips if I wanted to (saw the norco team do this at one of the crankworx dh races last year and I've been intrigued ever since).. but this range looks like it's gonna do a better job at being a swiss army knife than my bike. Oh well
I've owned and loved 2 Norcos, but found them hard to live with occasionally. Stuff like cable routing, PF92 BBs and chain slap pads were not my fave, though Range seems to have the latter sorted. Good thing the important things (geo and suspension) are so dialed.
Also Orange bikes are pretty cheap used, maybe not in Canada.
New Grim Doughnut 3.0.
Your welcome.
Be careful with any drug tests this week.
Enduro bikes, in general, have to last an entire day on semi-blind tracks versus a 3-4 minute downhill race run.
Nukeproof Giga 290 Carbon Factory $5500 gets you a 33.9lb bike with 180F/170R
Whyte G-180 Works V1 $6100 gets you a 34.2lb bike with 180F/167R
Spec Enduro S-Works $10500 gets you a 32.1lb bike with 170F/170R
A Norco that is $9000, 37lbs with 170F/170R misses its mark.
So yeah, spending an extra 3 grand more than the Nuke or Whyte above to pedal another 3-4 lbs up the mountain sucks.
I'll keep my cash and dump when I want to.
Nukeproof distro for Canada
Weight is a legitimate consideration, and it might be too much for some. I get that. But limiting your opinion of a bike to its weight is just kind of dumb. Pros are REGULARLY running 35-36lb bikes on EWS. Swap out for lighter hubs, if you must, and XTR for AXS and you’re down to 36 right there. It’s not that far off.
Every time you editors type that nonsense I just wanna slap a stranger. Nobody ever said a Supermoto was a GP bike...cause it's not. You might beat the locals in the twistys on it, but you're not winning a GP on it.
How bad does the Norco DH bike suck that they gotta pay Blenki to race the Range to try to convince us it's something it's not.
I think I’m dragging about 35 pounds of bike up most climbs around the springs. It ain’t that bad, and the extra travel on the range would be so nice. A little elk park shuttle would be appropriate too.
My 38lb DH bike is a better descender than my 25lb XC bike...not sure what that has to do with a $9000 37lb Enduro bike.
Your whole argument that “9k is too much for a bike this weight” implies that price should be tied to weight regardless of a bikes intent. What the hell does price have to do with weight if you find the climbing/descending trade-offs worth it?
Keep pretending your single crown is fast because "reasons".
What you seem to keep ignoring is why would you want a heavier bike that descends the same as a lighter bike?
Its not like this article showed that it was a great bike in spite of its weight. The author actually said that the weight held the bike back.
I don't think price should be tied to weight. It turns out its been forced upon us because of the engineering and materials required for lighter bikes. So price and weight are a lot of times tied together. But not always like you seem to keep asserting.
The reason that $9000 is overkill for this 37lb bike is because you can get cheaper bikes that are lighter that are in the same category. Why overpay?
So again, it comes down to preference, because you're not overpaying for this bike if you make direct comparisons.
My Optic is still the best choice for 2nd bike next to my DH / park bike. Totally recommend it.
Who owns michael levy enterprises?
Why do people comment 'looks like a session' on pinkbike?
How do i become a pinker?
Did pinkbike sellout?
What is a pinker?
Is mike levy real?
"It was a touch firmer early in the stroke - not harsh, but more supportive than the Enduro."
Is that a thing? Are we comparing this year's crop of enduro bikes to the Specialized Enduro? As the owner of the current Enduro, I love the context setting in an article.
www.pinkbike.com/news/welcome-to-the-2021-summer-field-test-enduro-emtbs.html
Matt will this include putting the enduro in any of the timed tests? I was stoked to read that in the intro article too, but just curious how the comparison will unfold
The new Enduro is much more of a pure bred race bike. It pedals very well for a 170mm, 63 degree HTA monster - but the previous Enduro was much more of a long-travel trail/backcountry bike by today's standards. It had a shorter wheelbase, shorter chainstays, steeper angles, and is therefore noticeably more lively and agile. The older Enduro also had a more lively suspension platform that prioritized midstroke support and benefited from a decent amount of sag.
That said, if what you are after is a true "Enduro" bike, the new 20-21 Enduro is worlds better than the older version. There's a reason it received universal praise when released (BikeMag, Enduro MTB, Pinkbike all picked it as the "it" bike that year.)
I dunno, I basically pedal up roads or shuttle to ride DH trails like everyone in BC, and I just found I preferred my old bike. The new one definitely plows through rough stuff better and is stuck to the ground in a way the old one could only dream of, but I find it a chore to manual and pop off small stuff on the trail.
Rode the North Shore triple crown over the weekend on the C3 build of this bike and it was fine. 70km and over 2000M of ascending over one day, idler wheel/drivetrain didn’t make a peep the entire day, nor have I felt any added drag to the system due to this chain line.
Call it a hunch, and I'm fine with being wrong (check back in 2031 and heap abuse if needed). High pivot adds too much weight and complexity.
I am happy with the overall performance of the NSB alloy idler. It has hopped a tooth on the chain once, on a really fast rough down hill though. This made one of the wide teeth not so wide anymore.
And you can get it with e-bike chainrings now too.
If I had to predict, I'd say the best design would be something like Effigear, that allows a high pivot without the pulley. It would have to somehow have gear selection where only the engaged gears are driven; the rest of the gears don't spin unless they are selected/engaged (this is incredibly hard to do).
Another potential winner could be the derailleur in a box- but to get the 500% range thats expected it would have to be executed with two cassettes- think two road bike cassettes, where one acts as the front chainrings, one as the rear, and they are right next to each other. You would shift both cassettes at once to move up/down gears. This would also allow for a high pivot bike without an idler.
Effigear still has too much drag and weight for widespread adoption, because all the gears are always engaged and spinning (the same goes for Pinion) adding non-trivial drag. Cavalerie claimed, in 2019,
"We have done some test bench, the Effigear efficiency is close to derailleur on short gears and becomes better on long gear. Before publishing data we want to do more test to confirm the first result"
But that was two years ago and there hasn't been any updates or published results, to my knowledge. I suspect Effigear is marginally better than Pinion, but allows for the mostly high pivot.
If Effigear could somehow add a "double" gear selector, so that the only gears engaged are those transferring power, then perhaps they could get close to the efficiency of a derailleur.
Fun fact, Eagle is measurably less efficient than 2x11 setups in the lowest two gears because the chainline is so bad at the extreme ends of the cassette.
Marketing on overdrive!
A rearward axle path it may well have, but that big wheel is still moving UP as the damper goes through its stroke and it has got to go somewhere!
So maybe time to ditch the uphill stuff (that’s all mtb media) instead comparing and talking about sprint ability, power measured or otherwise?
That would do it nicely. Timed overall stage with a times uphill sprint section within it.
Reading my post this morning it sounds more negative than intended. I really like these reviews just wish the media as a whole would focus on the sprint rather than the climb. I was going to write “If a bike climbs efficiently it will probably sprint well too” but I’m not sure that’s true.
Shame stock is so hard to come by though, if I want any of those I am looking at Jan/Feb '22 at the earliest
@mikelevy an chance in the future you can maybe punch henry's audio up a little as he is quite soft spoken compared to you and matt
I really like your rig! 8,999$ is a little over my budget would you be into a partial trade for my clapped out patrol!? Thanks in advance!
Am I in the right place?
Please add a few more words on how it performs vs the Enduro. This review confirms all the other reviews, but I am really missing the comparison with a bike that has been known for 2+ years now.
"they squarely say I need an L size... I'm usually in M size territory with the other manufacturers"
Really? 176cm (5'9"ish) is usually right on the cusp of Medium and Large for many manufacturers. It's definitely at the bottom half of the L range (172.5 - 182.5), and just 2cm out of the Medium range (164 - 174) on Norco's site. That sure seems like it's down to personal preferences:
*if you like long bikes and/or trust Norco, go large, and get used to how forgiving and freeing it is to ride gnarly shit with the extra space to move around between the extremes of front-to-rear balance.
*if you feel that the reach is just too long, go medium, and have fun tossing around a "small bike", just look out for the "edge" because it'll sneak up on you relatively sooner.
Also remember that just because a bike _can_ be plowed down a trail without picking good lines and not kill you, it doesn't mean it _has to_ be. You can still pick lines on a big bike, and it just goes faster or saves energy or both. It's a lot harder to do the reverse on a smaller, less plow-y bike: you _must_ pick lines more often or risk getting tossed or breaking the bike.
176cm is a L in a lot of brands. Transition, Yeti, Specialized (S4), Commencal all have similar reaches on their L bikes and put riders our height on those bikes. The reach won't feel long, it's the wheelbase that will have you feeling like you're on a boat in the parking lot. Once you get it moving on dirt, it rides a lot smaller.
For anyone in-between size or near either end the guides need to be taking with a grain of salt. As it is all down to personal preference like @justinfoil explanation above.
Imo (if in between sizes) it's down to:
Smaller size: faster more agile around corners( faster cornering wins races too)
Larger size: more stable at high speed and less likely to get pinged off line
Reach isnt everything too, Jack Moir rides a large Canyon Strive which has a reach of 461mm and he is over 190cm.
I am in M/L territory in almost all manufacturers.
M size on trail bike was great choice i think.
I have L Megatower for enduro riding with is still cool (470 reach).
I have no idea which size in Norco Range would be better for me, i would like to test both. Actually there are none to test or buy in PL at all ;//
The other bonus of a long (but not too long) reach is just the room to move around without getting the extreme ends of the cockpit space. Attacking an entire trail or section means managing traction and balance as the entire bike goes along. Having the room to move around and make fine tweaks to front & rear wheel loading, but without getting close the edges where endo or loop-out potential is high, makes it much easier to really smash through things.
On my previous size L suspension bikes with 400mm-ish reaches, I could still ride down the steepest stuff around, and relative to the front wheel my hips were in generally the same place, but the short reach meant my hips were way closer to the rear axle. So in order to prevent a loop-out or just smashing the rear wheel at the bottom, I had to quickly adjust from getting back to getting centered or even forward. Not to mention I was basically riding in a wall-sit position and just melting my quads without even pedaling. With new size L bikes at 455mm or more of reach, those extra inches mean I can ride more centered on the bike more of the time. Hands to front axle distance isn't far off from the older bikes, but with my feet relatively further back, there is more room to move and remain in that centered position which makes it easier to make adjustments.
It's like the old adage "good riders can ride any bike". Yeah of course, I mean I've ridden these same trails on
26" hardtails with like 370mm reach and survived... but it takes waaaay more work to smash through steep and janky trails on a bike that doesn't have the room to move around "inside" the cockpit.
Enduro more poppy and playful, more plush suspension, slightly lighter, climbs better, more versatile, outdated geometry. Range smashes, in high speed chunk it wants to go faster, gains momentum with rider input, handles harsh landings and compressions with ease, rides a bit front heavy/harder to get front end up since the rear end lengthens under compression, more comfortable seated position, I don’t get hit with rear tire unlike Enduro. I haven’t completely figured out cornering on Range yet so yet to be determined comparison there. They are so different that I haven’t decided which I like better.
IMO the difference in handling is exclusively related to rear axle path- one bike gets shorter wheelbase under compression (snappier handling, relaxed rider position), the other gets longer (more stable, attack rider position). Both bikes offer “in the bike feel”. DH=Range. Freeride=Enduro.
Otherwise I'll have to buy another HPV bike from a canadian brand, even though its single pivot and I don't want that...
But I would be looking for a High Pivot Bike, because I think it makes sense and would love to try one.
Probably then will need to go with a Druid or Highlander (but having had a single pivot morewood izimu back in the days, I'm really not looking forward tot that hardening up on the brakes)
www.pinkbike.com/news/video-behind-the-creation-of-the-new-norco-range-in-forged.html
If you compare the Gehrig twin's and Blenki's bike check articles, you might notice different length bars coming off the main link arm. However, we haven't received any official words about this setup from Norco.
www.pinkbike.com/photo/21235816
www.pinkbike.com/photo/20849446
So _all_ you need to convert to a DH bike are:
Fork, new shock link, new shock and possibly new drivetrain (short cage mech), DH wheels, tyres, then remove expensive Enduro bits that you don't want to wreck e.g. dropper.
Not a cheap conversation in terms of time or money. I'd rather run a separate, DH bike with cheap with heavy components designed to take some punishment.
Have a XL frame on the way
Large comes with 500lb spring, not 450lb