PINKBIKE FIELD TEST
Deviate Claymore
Words by Mike Kazimer; photography by Dave TrumporeOn paper the Claymore looks like a brute, with a high pivot suspension design, 29” wheels, and 165mm of rear travel. It was a slightly different story out on the trail, where Deviate's latest carbon creation ended up surprising testers with its versatility.
Deviate stepped into the high pivot world back in 2016, so they're no strangers to the potential pros and cons of the design. With the Claymore, the goal was to make a long travel enduro bike that was still playful enough to remain entertaining on slightly mellower terrain. The bike has a true high pivot suspension layout, with the main pivot located nearly halfway up the seat tube. That positioning gives it a rearward axle path of 21mm, and relatively high anti-rise values, which can help preserve the geometry during heavy braking.
Deviate Claymore Details• Travel: 165mm / 170mm fork
• Full carbon frame
• Wheel size: 29"
• Head angle: 64.3°
• Seat tube angle: 78°
• Reach: 490mm
• Chainstay length: 441
• Sizes: M, L (tested), XL
• Weight: 34.7 lb / 15.7 kg
• Price: $3,696 (frame + Float X2 shock)
•
www.deviatecycles.com On the topic of geometry, the Deviate has a 64.3-degree head angle, the steepest (although I wouldn't exactly call it 'steep') out of the seven bikes we had on test. It also had the longest reach, at 490mm for a size large. That number is tempered by a 78-degree seat angle, which helps ensure the bike doesn't feel overly long while climbing. The chainstays measure 441mm on all three available sizes.
From a distance, the Deviate sure looks like all of the housing runs through the main frame, but that's only true for the dropper post. The rear brake and derailleur housing sit in a channel underneath the top tube before traveling through the swingarm on the way to their final destinations. Funny enough, the only real noise complaint we had came from the dropper post housing – adding foam tubing around that line is highly recommended.
Other frame details include room for up to a 2.6” rear tire, a threaded bottom bracket, and grease ports on the idler and pivot bearings. The 18-tooth idler uses two industrial grade sealed bearings, and the bracket that surrounds it helps ensure that the chain can't come off.
The Claymore is available as a frame only with a Float X2 shock for $3,696 USD. That's not cheap, but it is around $550 less expensive than a Santa Cruz Megatower frame and shock. Complete bikes aren't available, but Deviate does have an online configurator that allows customers to select the parts they want and then send that information to a dealer to receive a quote.
Our test bike was built up with a kit that included a Shimano XT drivetrain and 4-piston brakes, DT Swiss EX 511 wheels, a OneUp dropper post, and a Fox Float X2 / Fox 38 suspension combo. The Claymore is also coil shock compatible for riders interested in going that route.
Climbing“Not bad” is the sort of faint praise that typically gets handed out to bikes in this category. After all, if you're pedaling around a bike with 165mm of travel the focus is clearly on descending (or at least it should be), and climbing is typically a means to an end. The Deviate isn't your typical enduro bike, though, and it ended up being an extremely competent climber, with balanced handling that elevates it well above the 'not bad' designation.
That steep seat angle provides a nice and upright climbing position, and the chainstay length combined with the rearward axle path creates makes it easy to stay centered on the bike – there wasn't ever any sense of being too far over the rear wheel, even on really steep climbs.
The front end steering is a touch quicker than some of the slacker bikes that we had on test, which makes the Claymore easier to maneuver in tighter sections of trail, especially compared to the Commencal Meta SX or Contra MC. The Claymore also happens to be one of those bikes that rides lighter than it actually is – I'd happily head out for a long, multi-hour pedal on this bike, something that I'd be less inclined to do on some of the bigger bruisers in our group of test bikes.
The idler was trouble free, and it was only on the wettest and muddiest days that a little extra rumbling arose from the dirty chain traveling over the idler pulley. Otherwise it was smooth and silent, free of any noticeable drag.
Descending The Claymore defies expectations about how a high-pivot, idler-equipped bike should behave. Yes, it has excellent traction, and smooths out rough sections of trail incredibly well, but there was a liveliness to its handling that was a welcome surprise.
The Contra MC still takes the cake when it comes to outright straightline speed and stability, and the Intense Tracer has a more poppy feel to it, but the Claymore is very well-rounded, with neutral, predictable manners. Bump absorption was excellent, no matter the size of the hit, and I can only imagine how much grip a coil shock would deliver. The Float X2 felt like an appropriate choice, though, and there was plenty of end-stroke ramp up to keep it from bottoming out on bigger hits.
The high pivot design and the fact that the bike gets longer as it goes through its travel does place it closer to the middle of the pack when it comes to cornering; it doesn't have the same propensity for berm blasting as the Transition Patrol, for example. Still, it never felt unwieldy, and its smooth, comfortable ride put this bike on all of our short lists of favorites.
Overall, the Claymore would make for a great race bike, or a long-travel do-it-all machine, with enough travel to handle unexpected surprises, and geometry that allows it to shine on a variety of tracks. Yes, the idler adds a little more complication, but it does take a standard 126 link chain, and didn't cause any trouble during our test period.
I could ride all the same trails I currently do on a hardtail. But that doesn't mean I'd maximize the "fun per ride" utility of bikes very well.
I've never really understood the idea of deliberately underbiking yourself just because you can.
I also have to think that I'm probably in the norm of the type of person who would buy this bike, and I'm not that 'out there' amongst other bicycle enthusiasts.
I'm willing to spend some money on bikes, I have a DH bike, and a do everything bike, and a road bike and a commuter bike, and I'm looking at an E-bike since I'm going to be moving back to the south near Kanuga. This bike would slot pretty nicely into the "do everything category."
If I didn't have a DH bike or my enduro bike, my first thought definitely wouldn't be "I wish I had even less bike than either of those. I'm gonna look at downcountry bikes to replace those."
huh?
That would actually be quite an interesting test for PB to do - top end "do it all" trail/enduro bike Vs deore/SLX level DC/trail bike plus dedicated enduro bike for the same total price. Which setup is better to live with?
If I were to add a bike, it would be a DH bike. I can't imagine wanting to go with less travel where I ride.
There's no getting around it... you do give up some comfort and ability at the edge and it's been interesting giving that up while gaining more pop, maneuverability, jumpy-ness, quick & less effort climbing and faster long rides plus ease of getting through slower tech sections. You don't ever feel bogged down into too much travel.
This year it turns out for me, a shorter travel yet aggressive progressive bike has been a faster enduro race bike as enduros never tend to be that gnarly.
I think next season I'll go to a 150/160... as I'm suspecting that might be the ultimate sweet spot.
In 2019 I got the crazy idea into my head to start a bike company, and I have a few prototypes and sample frames that ride amazing. They are everything I want in a bike, but my first production batch is delayed yet again! COVID and the reactions to COVID has pushed back my delivery date by over a year. Meanwhile I've sunk tens of thousands of dollars into this, and my wife has put up with it. Maybe she shouldn't. Maybe I'm just lucky.
Although I vaguely remember reading that in the era of plate mail it wasn't uncommon to turn the sword around to use it as a hammer to bludgeon an armoured opponent.
For the win
For those "Hope it´s DOT it would never work",yes. That´s why Hope made an e4 caliper with shimano seals for gravel bikes...
I have this setup in my dirtjump bike,with the shimano cheapest lever (200 series long lever) they made and it is lovely. I´m about to try the same in my enduro bike,with a Saint lever and hose.
It works really good in the dirtjump bike,lovely felling in the lever and 1 finger braking with a 160 mm tiny rotor,no front brake in the bike.
The RX4 post mount caliper is almost the same as e4,2 pistons are smaller but same pads. I hate DOT fluid and unpredictable brakes,so this combo ticks many boxes.
I'd rather they compare bikes with similar purpose, but which use different means to achieve the same goal. Just like this test.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QcjX51NDjHU
@mikekazimer If that picture was of me I would have a life-sized poster of it as the wallpaper in my living room. is it as gnarly of a drop and landing as the picture suggests?
Is this possible because of the idler pully taking up the extra chain slack?
Did it have any impact on shifting performance?
Any issues with setting up the b tension?
Fezzari con - More generalist than specialist - it's not quite as solid as other options on high speed, rough trails
I understand it can go either way. Just trying to fuel some fires.
The Loam Wolf finally formulates almost a warning at the end of his video.
m.youtube.com/watch?v=n5O9r-9ZU7E
Can you clarify a bit since what you were saying about the santa cruz being fun and slidey thanks to the shorter cs length is kind of the opposite of the effect I've experienced shorter chain stays to do? I went from a bike with 430mm Chainstays to the Meta SX with 448mm chainstays, and I have found the result is a super predictable cornering and edge of grip, which results in a really playful bike in corners that can be thrown around and is very forgiving and playful. However, you're describing short chainstay bikes in much the same way "thanks to the shorter chainstays" am I misunderstanding your description in some way? SHorter cs bikes will "rotate quicker around their vertical axis" but will likely push the front tire out before the back tire. (think short cs=understeer, long cs=oversteer) Any clarification of your experience with cs length and cornering characteristics would be awesome, thanks!
There are a lot of factors that go into influencing how a bike behaves; solely focusing on chainstay length doesn't usually tell the whole story.
But I see what you're saying with a short chain stay bike maybe coming to life on even tighter corners than I am describing. With a short chainstay, the rear grip is a little more "on/off" so when you do lose grip and catch again (shralp as the kids say) maybe it feels more extreme because when it does catch, it catches harder than a long cs bike. (in my case, it doesnt catch and I eat sh*t).
I think the thing that was getting to me was people describing bikes as "snappy" or "drifty" thanks to short chainstays, as if long cs bikes cornered badly. But I feel my long cs bike is much snappier and driftier than my old shorter cs bike, thanks to being able to push so much harder into corners and gripping so much more. But you're right, there's different riding styles and different trails that make the bikes feel different. thanks for the response dude!
So I suppose the real TL;DR is that "feels fast" and "is fast" may correlate, but it is certainly not foolproof.
You mention "scandi flick" and "skid" I imagine these to be more so "rotations." A scandi flick has almost nothing to do with weight distribution, as you are basically unweighting the rear end all together to initiate an opposite slide, then letting it catch and whip you around to initiate the rotation through a corner. Shorter wheelbase bikes aka shorter cs will initiate rotations around the vertical axis quicker which I am imagining is causing the flicky feeling in maneuvers like this. Even with the weight distribution, a shorter chainstay bike will initiate "rotations around the vertical axis" easier because its just shorter. I am kind of spit balling here, but it makes sense in my mind. But is probably confusing because we use words like "Flicky" "Snappy" "drifty" to describe different characteristics.
With respect, I'm not sure any of us fully grasp how physics and modern MTB geometry join up in real life.
Most people are used to riding low pivot bikes with short chainstays, so anything different from that feels weird.. and slow. That is likely what we are seeing in this review, and it's happened in other Pinkbike reviews. The exception to that is high pivot bike reviews by Paul Aston, he was able to adapt to them and raved about how good the traction was. A bikes ability to hold traction is probably a more important factor than chainstay length when it comes to cornering.
Even though low pivot bikes are inherently unstable and sacrifice traction because of the different axle paths of the wheels, most riders are used to this, and mistakenly see it as an advantage in making the bike have more 'pop', or responsiveness. No, it's instability, and not one low pivot manufacturer promotes it as an advantage, because it's not. We're just at an stange point with bike technology where the familiarity with outdated technology is preventing us from embracing something better.
I suspect you're right, it's a combination of factors conspiring to stop me skidding.
How does this compare to the size specific stays on the dreadnaught, in the dread review you say you are still interested in doing a longer term test. Would love to hear your thoughts specifically on how the dread compares to the deviate. And sounds like many would love to have a wholistic wrap up including contra, kavenz, Jekyll and others. We don't even need a long talking review. Time test them all head on!
unknown date here in germany.
In a other review from the loam woalf they mentioned, that the brake squat is very noticeable up to unpleasant.
Did you @alicialeggett notice any firming up in the rear during breaking because of the high anti rise?
You and @mikekazimer didn´t mention antything of that in your review of the field test. So maybe it depends more
on setup and shock, than it´s a common "issue"?
it´s noticealbe a little bit. But by far not that bad like in the review from loam wolf. But almost everyone there
is riding a coil setup, maybe that´s a reason.
I canceled my Megatower last week and the Claymore should arrive at the end of october
to end of january. And now, there isn´t an estimated deliverydate for germany at all... Maybe march, or maybe not...
Dreadnought is also a nice high pivot bike, which is worth to consider in my opinion.
The suspension curve looks pretty progressive especially towards the end. Do you guys think it would work even better with a coil? Did you get the chance to test one on there?
And it climbs so well you don't even use the climb switch, full open all of the time.
I think the coil also helps with sensitivity under braking as well, I don't notice it getting stiffer when dragging the brakes through rough stuff much at all.
Like the review says, surprisingly poppy and playful for how big it is. Much more so than the medium Spire I had previously.
I'd recommend a high volume air shock personally for this bike, so you have room to adjust progression. I.e. Manitou Mara Pro.
IMHO, i think the dreadnaught would be fine for most all mountain/enduro trails.
As a taller rider, it seems to me this should be one of the most important aspects to how a bike rides (but, that's just based of my assumption and not off actually riding different bikes, which is why I'd love to see more reviewers that are taller - looking at you @seb-stott - test and/or speak to proportional chainstays.)
I'm 6'4", and was initially very tempted by the Claymore's XL size 520mm reach (15mm LONGER than my Privateer 141, which I would want!), but on reading down the geo chart, this bike would only have 441mm chainstays (a full 11mm SHORTER than my Privateer). I'm no geometry wizard, but my basic knowledge makes me think this would be a much worse ride for taller riders. Thoughts?
www.pinkbike.com/photo/22736880
Also, with the seat tube angle being the actual (not effective) no matter how high the seat goes the angle doesn't get worse. Which is really nice for taller guys who rock crazy seatpost lengths.
Not saying this as a complaint, just something I've been thinking about a lot as someone who just wants a bike to ride as well for me as for other more normal sized humans haha.
The bb is not inline with the seat tube, it is slightly set back, but this I don't see how you think this means the angle changes any less as the seat height changes.
images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5d6e8c544f79e80001356407/1582750626351-EATFQTZX1P0I2ZRT8TFC/highlander-geo
It is in line, i don't see how the effective angle can change if it is in fact the actual angle. Yes you will consistently move rearwards at the given angle.
Here's a fun article by Dan Roberts with pictures and everything.
www.pinkbike.com/news/enginerding-seat-tube-angles.html
That said, I'm 1.93m tall and own a Highlander 150 I can tell you it's a stunning bike to ride. Definitely best with a coil I have found and am very happy with it.
The Highlander actually seems to have shorter reach than most XL Bikes at 491mm (assuming you're on an XL size), and you don't feel cramped with that? Funny I'm about the same height as you at 6'4" and sometimes wanting even more reach on my Privateer with 510mm.
My bikes are at 490mm - 510mm in reach and they all seem to work. Stems are different to compensate.
It doesn't feel cramped, or too small. In fact it's really easy to ride.
My longest bike I definitely have to get used to riding if I've not ridden it recently.
That's 464mm at the rear and has benefits and drawbacks with the geometry. Still awesome to ride though.
6.1 lbs without shock (no mention of size). Air shock will add about a lb to that. That's pretty dang light for a big bike. I'm a little suspicious that the Rallon could be a full lb lighter than that.
My 2022 med Rallon weighs 30.3# without pedals. Lyrik fork though, not 38. And generally fancy parts from the old bike.
What is the price of this bike?
In the details it’s 3822, yet the write up has 3696, worldwide has them for 4200, and if I go to deviates website, it’s under 3600, with free international shipping. All with the X2… weird
Either way the price of the Claymore frame with no shock is currently £2500 GBP + tax.
The reality is that the USD/GBP exchange rate is highly volatile at the moment so we'll be shortly locking in our USD (and CAD) pricing to prevent this fluctuation and also protect our dealers in the US and Canada from exchange rate fluctuations.
Deviate is Considerably more expensive here so Glad i could experience it without spending the $$$ lol.
The Giga's strong point is its geometry... it is fast and capable af due to it, not to the suspension systems which is nothing out of the ordinary(I run my Giga in the most progressive set-up with 30% sag and some lsc added and some open rebound.. which, surprised me as I would have expected the vice-versa.. more open compressions and less rebound). Not to be misunderstood.. I love my Giga, it is the fastest bike I ever rode on a piece of dh trail but, the bike makes this happen more from geometry, then through its suspension system. Rearward axle path with high pivots bikes can have smaller wb and lesser geometries and still feel like everything under the wheels is in absolute submission.
At the moment when I ordered my Giga frame.. I could not get hold of a Jekyll and no other bikes beside these two interested me. I don't regret it, quite the contrary.. it is an effin beast of a bike and fast af but, the feel is very different and the compliance is not quite there. What I realized was that, even though I thought that what I need compliance and composure... in reality, it seems that there are more ways to achieve the same result. Giga is not a comfy bike to ride... it is pretty stiff and lacks the ultimate smoothness of a rearward axle path bike but, that does not stop it to be one of the fastest bikes you can buy today.
I wouldn't called it a good pedaler.., especially when you dd-it with assegais and maxxgrip compound.
Cheers
But F*ck Santa Cruz for supporting the little guys right?
If SC charges $4250 through dealers they could be making less money than Deviate charging $3820 DTC.
Probably goes great in straight line, and takes big hits like a champ, but as an all mountain trail bike, nope.
No one should be looking at this bike for for tight trails, where climbing and agility are important.
I ride a Canfield Lithium, it's a well rounded trail bike with the same amount of travel as the Claymore, it's agile and poppy, and I'd take it anywhere.
I'm not saying the Claymore is bad bike, it's just not a well rounded bike, esp with a high pivot which tends to make technical climbing kinda sucky.
When is the e-MOUNTAIN bike test?!?!?!