PINKBIKE FIELD TEST
Intense Tracer S
Words by Matt Beer; photography by Dave TrumporeIntense Cycles had been working on the Tracer for quite some time before launching the carbon mixed-wheeled enduro bike in April of 2022. In fact, last summer, we were able to lock down a
First Ride on Chris Kovarik's personal bike, but during this Field Test we spent plenty of time getting acquainted with the Californian brand's latest carbon enduro bike.
Boasting 170mm of front and rear travel, along with all of the hot trends like downtube frame storage, an integrated fender, and a low-positioned coil sprung shock that articulates via a dual-link suspension system, the Tracer had a lot of hype around it while loyal Intense fans awaited its arrival to market.
Tracer Details• Travel: 170 mm rear / 170 mm fork
• Carbon frame
• Wheel size: Mixed
• 64.0º - 64.5º head angle
• 77.4º-77.9º seat tube angle
• 437mm chainstays
• Sizes: S, M, L (tested), XL
• Weight: 16.2 kg / 35.7 lb
• Price: $7,199 USD as tested
•
Intensecycles.com Glancing over the bike, there are a ton of reasons why the Tracer stands out from the crowd. First, is the flashy red paint that has been Intense's signature color for decades. The frame is only compatible with a 27.5 rear wheel and offers just one adjustment at the lower shock mount to alter the progression and geometry by half of a degree. Those angles weren't the most extreme with the head tube angle tipping to 64 degrees in the slackest setting, leaving the seat tube angle at a very acceptable 77.4-degrees.
Diving deeper into the frame details, a closer look reveals that the upper link is carbon and that there is some titanium pivot hardware on display too. Cable routing is managed by way of fully-guided internal tubes and below the shock is the Chad storage compartment. To access the cargo space, you'll need to flip the bike upside down, which is how most people change a flat tire anyways, and inside you'll find a neoprene bag to keep all of your tools from rattling around.
Another talking point is the parts package - it's not your typical RockShox/SRAM or Fox/Shimano grouping. Instead, you'll find an Öhlins 38 RXF fork and TTX22M coil shock, Magura MT7 brakes, E-thirteen wheels, dropper post, and a Renthal cockpit on the premium build kit that we tested, which retails online-only for $7,199 USD. Even though there's a more affordable carbon model, the aluminum frames were only built for the purposes of prototyping.
Further inspection reveals the mixed part selection continues. I would have expected to find a 34-tooth chainring paired with the 27.5" rear wheel, but there is tiny 30-tooth ring, which is actually steel. That's bolted to SRAM X1 alloy cranks which are matched to a 10-52-tooth GX cassette and a X01 Eagle derailleur. That all makes for ultra low-range gearing. Intense takes care of the grips, and saddle with their own logo or seal of approval on those components.
Visually, aside from the paint, it didn't look like much had changed from our First Ride on the prototype, but what did the trails around Bellingham tell us about the Tracer in comparison to the other bikes?
ClimbingSo a full carbon bike must be light, right? Well, not exactly. The Tracer S weighs in at 16.2 kg / 35.7 lb and, without a climb switch you might expect the 170mm of rear wheel travel to be a burden too, but you'd be wrong again. We all agreed that the JS tuned suspension and seated position made this Intense one of the best climbers in our test. The coil shock actually stays high in the travel and remains active on small bumps, which makes the bike an effective climber, even without the cheater switch. You can firm up the suspension on the fly relatively easily with the three-position high-speed compression adjuster, mind you, that's not going to have much effect on where the bike sits in the travel at lower speeds.
To reach way down to that shock basement area of the frame, you'll need to move the saddle out of the way. The saddle does move well out of the way, given the 440mm seat tube, and the standover height is ample, but my issue was with accessing the controls. Combining the mounting of the brake and dropper/shift levers to one clamp per side is great in theory, but the stock clamps didn't allow me to angle the controls in a usable position. Since I prefer my brake levers perched in a flatter orientation, this pushed the dropper and shift levers farther under the handlebar and made them tough to reach. That didn't make or break the bike, since mounting separate band clamps is still possible, but it was something that bugged all of us.
Pointing the Tracer up the trail, it was clear that this 170mm bike wasn't as much of a handful as some of the other similarly equipped rigs on test. Both the front and rear wheels appeared slightly further underneath you compared to those of the praying mantis, the Commencal Meta SX, which is stretched nearly another 30mm between the axles. For the Tracer, that made tight switchbacks easier to coax the front wheel around and correct direction changes faster, should you stumble or get off line.
Although the Tracer doesn't shy away from technical climbing, the smaller diameter rear wheel undoubtedly hangs up easier than a 29er. However, that sacrifice can be highly rewarding on the descents, especially for shorter riders, and we've seen a substantial number of EWS racers revert to the smaller rear wheel for its sportiness.
Descending When you jump hard on the pedals, the Tracer 279 wants to go forwards. For a 170mm travel bike, the Tracer feels like it has less than that, but in a positive sense. With that said, when you do hit large compressions, there is a ton of progression in reserve. Where it shines is pumping through features to gain momentum, unlike some of those high pivot machines that can seemingly suck speed away from you in flatter terrain. Adding to the energetic handling, the 64-degree head tube angle and smaller rear wheel allow you to throw direction changes with less effort than some of the lengthier bikes.
My very first laps on the Tracer were on some hectic trails that were steep, wet, rooty, and unfamiliar. Between those conditions and the familiarity of the Ohlins suspension and Magura brakes, I quickly felt confident in those demanding conditions. The rear shock promoted a more square, upright feel to the bike. A slacker head angle would have let me open up the limits further, however, the suspension worked brilliantly on all of the slippery, sniper roots.
It wasn't until later in testing that we arrived at a much different zone where the Tracer showed a different face. The ground was now hard-packed with plenty of flat berms that want to stand you up as you hit the apex.
The higher-paced trails were also riddled with braking bumps and square edge compressions. Those really threw me for a loop when I tried to settle the bike into those awkward turns. It seemingly lurched front to back - like it couldn't decide if it was going to push or pull you through the turn.
I experimented with altering the sag and low-speed compression at both ends to try and settle the bike down, but that had an overbearing effect on the harshness, rather than controlling the weight shifts that were giving me grief. That problem was compounded on high-speed hits because I only felt like I was using 75% of the travel and I can't recall ever reaching the end of the travel. I just wanted the rear end of the Tracer to sit deeper and calm down.
So, the Tracer 279 isn't the longest, slackest, most stable bike out there, however, it is still a burly bike that rides more on its toes than expected. That could make it an enduro bike that appeals to riders who want a reactive ride without getting bogged down by overly aggressive geometry or tons of sag. Lighter tires and components could drop the weight further and turn the Tracer into a long-travel, multi-purpose bike - one that won't shy away from snapping through turns quickly or soaking up big freeride hits.
Mostly I carry a tube to give it away to others on group rides.
Except when I ran Speci Grid Trail and Blck Dmnd casings which are super easy to slice.
Very complicated business, figuring this out. I'm sure it's coming any day now.
1. Minor impact broke a lever seal and introduced air to the system, rendering the levers useless.
2. A piston popped out while bleeding, introducing a lot of air to the system. Very difficult to get out and eventually ruined the caliper.
3. Hyper soft aluminum male hose mounting screw had a very small bend in one of the threads, and ended up stripping two different levers. The large thread gap doesn't help, and the plastic female side of the lever is inexcusable, imo.
4. Magura's proprietary brake housing is $75, vs. $25 for Shimano which also includes the barb & olive.
5. The bleed process is quite annoying when compared to Shimano, almost impossible not to lose oil or introduce air to the system while bleeding.
6. The pads are amazing but incredibly soft and expensive to replace.
I set up my current rig with Code RSC's, 200mm front rotor, and 220 mm rear, and I feel as if they are a nearly perfect brake. Very adjustable, plenty of power, fantastic modulation. Personally, mine have been very durable. No bleeding or service in the first 3 years on this bike.
Aside from the occasional noise (mostly when they are wet or the brakes are very, very hot) they just seem to work.
shimano modulation, inconsistent bite and having to pull the lever hard to get any real stopping power other than that initial grab is a pain. - ill always argue shimano brakes only have 1 Pro to them and thats the bleed proccess but its still not flash as air remains in the upper lever and calliper at times.(ive ridden a friends XT's that were vacuum bled and they were excellent)
to everyone using Magura, Try TRP. knock ya socks off.
1. I have broken multiple levers and had 1 MC leak on me. They have a 5 year warranty on leaking MC's/calipers, so it was replaced under warranty. That being said, I'm not stoked on the plastic of them. Levers were replaced too. The MT7 levers are garbage and the bite point does nothing. The MT5's feel better all around than my MT7s
2. Not sure how a piston popped out, did you not have bleed blocks in during the bleed?
3. Have not experienced an issue with their compression nuts
4. I agree that the housing price sucks (likely because it comes with a compression banjo installed) compared to just a DIY fitting on each end
5. This is a big one for most people. I researched a LOT before I ended up bleeding these for the first time. That being said, following the procedures I found, I've never had a bad bleed and I've found it's the easiest out of all the brakes I've done. My first attempt was up in the Whistler parkinglot in a massive downpour and was able to get a solid bleed. Technique is key here.
6. I've run a lot of aftermarket pads. They stop, you stop, but I guess I'm not much of a pad guru.
The one thing I can say is I got sick of the plastic levers and MC's after one of mine started leaking. Yes they will warranty. But if you have to buy ANY parts for Magura after the fact, the cost is insane. Almost as much as a new complete brake. I love the feel of the brake though. So I started looking into the Shigura setups. I'm now running XT levers with my MT7 (and MT5 on the trail bike) calipers. I can honestly say it's everything I want as far as feel goes. It's got modulation, feels better than the Magura levers on multiple levels, and a big one for me is quick engagement. I don't like a lot of dead space in my MC before the pads hit. The feel is great and the have performed well so far. I now have about 4 Magura levers in my parts bin for emergencies if I need a quick change on a trip or something to keep me going.
I ran shimano levers so I didn't have this problem but my friend has broken 3 levers in 2 months, yes mostly due to crashing but they are fragile as has been noted many times. Also the M/C, lever mounting is plastic and strips/breaks etc.
I ran through the pads (padlets) extremely quickly. this adds up fast at $40 a set. This seemed to be especially accelerated by wet/mud riding, but that is the case 10 months of the year here.
Running Dominions now, I miss the ultimate power of the MT7, but the Doms are also plenty powerful and I have had no problems with pad clearance and with the caliper stub screws they are easy to setup, and modulation is better.
I am sure there are some great options out there. The new Hopes seem interesting, TRP DHR-EVO, and Trickstuff. But Codes are perfectly good brakes that regularly work for the world's top professionals.
I remember changing from XT back to RSC and if i pulled the rsc as hard as i had to for shimanos "deep power" it would want to send me OTB.
Ordered some of the new hope because of good review but also cause their pistons have been re-designed not to stick.
I love the MT5 but agree with a lot of your concerns esp pad wear. Riding 6x a week I wear through code pads in 6 mo. I go through a set of gold magura pads every month. 107 CAD with tax at whistler! Crazy
I tried in two occasions code rscs on different bikes and almost crashed every time. They simply don't stop. Yes, they have a lot of modulation but when I want to serious drop the anchor, almost nothing happen.
I've had Saints for many-many years and now I'm using the Shigura set-up with sram hs2's rotors. Less modulation, of course, but the power is there when you need it.
My two LBS cant bleed Sram brakes at all they SUUCK...
Ride the Code RSC's i have on my new Mega... youll be sold on them.
Funny fact, the second time I tried rscs, which was 2 months ago in the bikepark, I got a PR on that section as the damn bike wouldn't stop properly and forced me to go faster everywhere down that trail. The thing is, I simply don't feel under control with them. I like to be overbraked so that, in my mind, I know that I have more braking power than I need. The RSC felt like barely had the power to not kill me down the trail.
Maybe it was the set-up, maybe it was user preference but, for sure I'll not put any sram brakes on my bike soon. I am curious about those TRPs though..
Sram Brakes have always been about the quality of the bleeding - they also require more oil changes.
Id be happy to Run them and would chose them over XT 4 pots. XT's require such a hard pull to get any power after its initial "hit" - i recently built a friends Transition spire with XT's and was lucky enough to ride it after he rode it for a bit, pads were good etc but man i had such hand fatigue from having to squeeze so hard to slow my 210lb frame down. - i believe this comes from when the calipers/oil gets hot. so cool XC/trail brakes lol.
The fact remains, probably 40-50% of mountain bikers are currently on Codes/Guides/G2 because these are the brakes that come spec'd on many bikes. Outside of individuals on pinkbike forums, most people seem to get along with Sram brakes just fine. Hell, I was just at Whistler for a few days, and most bikes were running Codes, XT or Saints. Based on the pinkbike comments section you'd presuppose that these (very fast, very serious) riders all had a death wish - it's just patently absurd.
Enduro-mtb did a write up in 2018 on MTB brake shootout. They directly tested/compared 21 brakes from Sram, Shimano, Trickstuff, Hope, Formula, Magura, TRP. The Code RSCs came out as "best in test" because they offered middle-of-the-road power, but good practical deceleration and excellent modulation. The simple fact of the matter is that Code RSCs (like a lot of other brakes on the market) work.
The trick with Sram brakes is: learn to bleed them yourself properly(and change the oil) and they will perform how they are ment to.. The pure arrogance of many has pushed Sram to make Mineral oil brakes for the incapable.
Hell, even if you want the Megatower, you could buy the Intense Tracer S AND a Megatower frame-only, and still come out $1,000 ahead from Santa Cruz's full-build pricing.
For the record, I have nothing against Santa Cruz. Their bikes are perfectly 'ok'; a big ol' bowl of vanilla ice cream. But their pricing and full-build pricing are absolutely absurd, especially when compared myriad options on the market.
Regardless, my point is that the Santa Cruz costs $12k, while this bike with similar (aside from the wheelset) overall spec quality costs $7k - and they are apparently identical in terms of their timed performance.
Heck, even the reviewers themselves keep telling us to take timed testing with a grain of salt.
As stated in some of the PB reviews as well as the comments section. Geo for all of these bikes is so similar, and the components are all so similar, that you can expect the timings to be really close and the opinions to be overlapping as well. You would have to have bikes from different segments (i.e. Downcounty v. Enduro) to see and express significant differences.
The differentiating factors for individuals (buy/no buy), will come down to personal preferences... looks, and costs are probably the top two, then things like weight, reach, adjustability, utility, warranty will come into play.
But yeah, still easy job
I'd like to give this Tracer a ride personally.
The only downside is. I crack one of the pivot bolts. I contacted Intense recently about replacement parts and they flat out said they don’t make it anymore and gave me no alternative to remedy the issue. After purchasing 5 intense bikes. It was a bit of a pill to swallow to get no help from intense
You heard it here first - 27.5 rear wheels are the SpOrTiEsT ones.
It is less egregious in an Enduro bike shootout, but they do this same methodology on Trail bikes, which really grinds me gears. It is even a complete review if you don’t fully explore the built in options the bike has for you?
When I first rode the Tracer 279, I rode a Fox DHX2 and tried multiple springs, but settled on the #450 (and #457 for the Ohlins) to achieve 28-30% sag. I've noticed that altering the spring rate on some counter-rotating dual-link bikes can have less of an effect on sag and alters the progression much more.
If I were to spend more time on the Tracer 279, I would like to try either of those coil shocks with a #450 spring in the high BB setting because it's less progressive. To compensate for the steeper geometry, I'd add a -1.0 headset to even out the change.
Actually, position 3 on the Ohlins TTX shock HSC adjuster IS a climb switch. Positions 1 & 2 affect HSC only; position 3 essentially feels like it cranks up LSC a ton. It is specifically meant for climbing; it's not a full lockout and is still somewhat active, but is VERY obviously firmer when pedaling. Mostly useful for fire road type climbing. I'm surprised so many people miss this; then again, making it part of the HSC lever is not necessarily intuitive (same thing with the RXF fork).
Carbon cranks and you’re at 33 pretty quick…
I'll show myself out.
m.youtube.com/watch?v=epHCMiCtt3M
Anyone???
I know with motocross bikes I almost always had to change spring rates.
Could the high progression/ not using all the travel be from a spring rate that's too high?
I guess this way companies will sell some of these, then some 29ers in a couple of years when they're redesigned........
Besides, it’s not all mullet all the time even in DH. Amaury Pierron won 2 world cups on a full 29er setup this season.
But-apples to apples for a race bike big wheels are faster for most riders. That doesn’t mean that mullet or 27.5 or even 26 inch wheels might not work best in certain situations.
Enduro races are won on the down, but a more efficient climbing bike can make a difference. And just plain rolling faster will make a difference.
And I’ve ridden every size etc. Prefer 29ers with “trail” geometry and travel (160 up front/140-160 out back, 65 hta, 76 or so STA) and a shorter reach than the PB editors.
I think this bike would be really fun at a park like Trestle, a handful and not as fast on natural chunk.
I'll just say they both represent the same thing, Northrup Grumman.
The Chuckanut trail they tested these bikes is 99% down hill and doesn't have any real big jumps or pedal sections to fully test the suspension on any of these bikes. It's been a few years but they had a chainless race down this trail. A better test would have been Evolution to A-line to Atomic Dog.
I'm biased but the videos of them riding show a bike that is handling well...
Would love someone at PB to chime in, but not holding my breath. Suspension setup. How do they setup each bike for each rider? I am going out on a limb and say: not with a really pro bit of telemetry kit. Something like the BYB, there are several high end kits around now. ShockWiz is kinda lame, I know, I have one.
Take the time to dial in each rider to each bike using a system like this. That way, you establish something of a consistent baseline. System says bike is best it can be for rider X. Then they go on their test rides.
Honestly, anything short of this renders all these tests nonsense. Each rider has their own meat brain set of feels that they sort of apply on the fly to sort of think they have the bike set up properly in the limited time they have. When the general consensus is it takes a couple weeks of riding to properly dial in a bike.
One day, I said it here first, there will be a bot that rides bikes. With this you can empirically test virtually any aspect of a bike under perfectly replicable scenarios. But until then, it is incumbent upon PB/Outside to utilize the tools available now. IMO, of course.
"I experimented with altering the sag and low-speed compression at both ends to try and settle the bike down, but that had an overbearing effect on the harshness,"
preload rather than spring change by the sounds of it too. So that would have done very little.
Yeah just change it a bit so it doesn't look obvious.
www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRfVyXVn