As a smaller brand that regularly marches to the beat of their own drum, it's no surprise to see Esker incorporating some design elements that are less often seen on other bikes. The Hayduke has been a running model of theirs for a few years now, serving as a multipurpose bikepacking, trail riding, adventure-curious hardtail for all who need such a thing. With a frame geometry geared towards balance, adaptability, and carrying capacity, the updates for this newest generation simply take that intention to the next level. Distance-focused steel hardtails may not be the bread and butter of the Pinkbike crowd, but I think it's a pretty rad little niche in the market.
Esker Hayduke• Quad-butted 4130 steel frame
• 120mm fork
• Designed around 29" wheels
• 5 sizes available
• 4-position adjustable dropouts
• Weight: 2589-2899 grams (frame only)
• Colors: Darkness, Bluebird, Chili
• Frame: $1000 USD
• GX Complete: $3000 USD
• XT Complete: $4000 USD
•
eskercycles.com/ The self-powered joy of getting really far out there is a core part of why many of us got into this sport, and bikes like this simply help facilitate that. In Esker's own words:
"Hayduke is your most trusted adventure buddy - always ready to roll out into the unknown at a moment's notice. Loaded for the long haul or light and nimble singlespeed missions, this is the bike for your adventure rides."Though tamer than the
fictional ecoterrorist that serves as its namesake, the Hayduke is an interesting beast nonetheless, so let's dig in.
GeometryIt should be no surprise that a bike geared towards touring and distance doesn't sport the most cutting edge geometry on the market, but the Hayduke isn't quite as conservative as one might expect. With a static head angle of 65.6° that steepens up by around 2° at sag, this won't necessarily be the bike for picking your way down the steepest tech, but by no means will it hold you back on typical trails. The stack and reach numbers grow reasonably with each size, with the largest option sitting at 490mm long and 626mm high. Coupled with a sorta-low 60mm bottom bracket drop, the body position should be fairly upright on the Hayduke, which is a welcomed departure from the typically cramped XC geo of yore. Especially over the course of back-to-back long days, a comfortable body position is key.
The rear end of the bike is quite adjustable, with chainstays ranging from 425-437mm long. This is achieved with Esker's 4-position Portage dropout system, which allows you to bolt in different dropout plates to achieve your desired setting. The Portage system is also how the Hayduke achieves a tire clearance of up to 29x2.8", which should be welcomed news for folks still on the fat tire program.
The Hayduke is billed as the bikepacking-specific bike in the Esker family, and I think this geometry suits that niche quite well. I'm not going to pull a Levy and call this a
downcountry hardtail, even though the angles would suit most trail riding quite well. This is a bike designed to be balanced, comfortable, and predictable, even when loaded up with gear.
When it comes to loading it up, that's where the finer details of this frame really give it a leg up over more generalist options out there.
Frame DetailsWe've already covered the utility of the Portage Dropouts, and their ability to change geometry, tire clearance, and axle standards, but that's not the only trick up Hayduke's sleeve. Pinkbike commenters rejoice, as there are about 50 different ways to mount a water bottle to this frame. With provisions for a bolt-on frame bag, three-bolt cage mounts on the downtube, and threaded rack mounts on the rear end, cargo capacity is the name of the game.
I've done quite a lot of long-distance bikepacking, and the convenience of built-in mounts like these is hard to overstate. Velcro and Voilee straps certainly do the trick, but having a clean and bolted connection really simplifies the whole setup. I know touring really isn't the focus around here, so I'll spare y'all my excitement about how many Poptarts you can strap to this thing.
Other frame hardpoints are nicely modernized, so you'll be able to build up a complete from a wide array of parts, should you want to start with a bare frame. The 31.6mm seat tube has plenty of insertion depth, allowing for ample dropper travel for each size. The 44-44mm headtube is a nice feature, as it allows you to play around with angle/reach adjust headsets, if you want to get funky with it. The steel frame itself is ED (Electrophoretic Deposition, if you must know) coated to protect from rust, which bodes well for the longevity of the bike.
Build KitsThe Hayduke comes in three flavors: Frame-only, GX complete, and XT complete - priced at $1,000, $3,000, and $4,000 USD respectively. Though none of the options are terribly cheap, I think they pose a pretty decent value for folks looking to buy a turnkey bikepacking bike that will serve them well in a wide variety of applications. Both the GX and the XT feature a well-considered selection of parts that should hold up to the rigors of long backcountry tours, as well as performing nicely on trail.
There are a few elements that set the XT apart from the GX, aside from the drivetrain. The Industry Nine 1/1 wheelset is a significant upgrade over the Stan's Flow alternative, with a more robust design and better longevity. The Wolf Tooth dropper post is a nice thing to see on the higher spec, as their fully rebuildable and serviceable design lends itself well to an adventure-ready bike. The one component I'm less sure of is the MRP Raven fork, only because I don't have time on one myself - it's hard to say how it would compare to a Pike or 34 in the same application.
For folks who want to kit out the nicest camping and trail riding bike they can, Esker offers a few upgrade options that you can tack onto the stock builds. The fork can be upgraded to a Fox Factory 34 with a Grip2 damper, and the wheelset can be swapped out for an Industry Nine Enduro S carbon option. Obviously these jack up the price, but that's to be expected for the bump in performance.
Last ThoughtsThe rapid pace of change that we've seen in the world of bike design has been a little more slow and steady in the bikepacking niche, but the packmules are still modernizing alongside their sportier cousins. My personal touring rig is a bit dated at this point, and the well-considered details and geometry of a bike like the Hayduke have me wondering how much better the endless days of pedaling could be on a newer frame. With spring around the corner, I might try something akin to this Esker and see how it fares - both on singletrack and over the long haul.
HOWEVER, who runs 30% fork sag? If they're going to publish all geo numbers at such a high sag, they should at least publish them unsagged as well. That way someone can split the difference to get more realistic numbers.
Also, even though the book was fictional, the characters were loosely based on real people. In Hayduke's case it is environmentalist Doug Peacock.
It seemed pretty popular.
Been riding mine for over ten years and am really happy with it.
Sometimes I wonder if I should get something a bit more modern geometry wise, but there don't seem to be that many options.
This one however seems to tick all the boxes.
They seem to have copied the Mariachi, from the alternator drop outs down to a slogan on the inside of the chainstay.
I'm waffling between a gravel rig and a hardtail MTB. Leaning towards gravel, 'cause none of the routes I'm likely to be doing with family in tow (Literally in the case of my 7 yo.), are likely to be technical enough to require the use of a full-on MTB, and because even though I don't ride road any more, I could see myself doing some longer mixed-surface rides on a gravel rig when I just wanna put some miles in.
Nice looking, well equipped hardtails like this still tempt me, and make the decision a bit harder.
Doesn't hurt that most trails around here ("Here" being = 30 min. from my house.) are what most pinkers would probably term "lame", so I have maybe two spots I can ride regularly where I'm not majorly overbiked on even my 150mm trailbike.
- I liked my gravel bike. It was steel, 1x11. I put the widest Cowchipper bars available on it. This particular bike was a 700c but came with 1.9 mtb tires on it. So very flexible with tires if you wanted the volume to be loaded up or a wide road tire if you're wanting to do less demanding stuff. However, the steel made it not much lighter than an aluminum hardtail, and no matter how wide your drop bars are putting a bar bag out front is limited or clunky due to wanting options to use your controls.
- Even on my + hardtail it's possible to get narrower/slicker tires to "gravel it out". Even if your family is sticking to tame gravel, just add some more pressure and lock out the fork. I find the flat bars offer much more room to mount a bar bag set up. It is possible to convert to a drop bar on the hardtail (or flats on a gravel bike) but costs can get high depending on your drivetrain/control choices.
All that said, you already have a f/s trail bike that you could use on any harder-core bikepack attempt. So if you don't have a gravel bike, I would suggest trying one. Do a lot of looking and test riding if able since fit is a pretty big factor with drop bar/endurance set ups, and then hopefully the match in size, drivetrain and frame infrastructure sorts itself out. I can tell you life can be short so owning a bike you've never owned before is worth it. Be forewarned though, it's easy (fun?) to buy all sorts of accessories and shit for a gravel bike too.
Now my CX bike lives in my mag trainer and Ive decided I hate drop bars.
But there must be a saturation point - many companies x min production runs = a heap of stock in a slowing market? So I'll wait ... and wait, for the discounts.
New Trek Marlin might be aluminium but it has almost identical geometry to this! I think that should be the biggest article for PB at the moment - geometry that is not complete crap (I had the previous generation as a hack bike in China, and the frame is sound) and still available on a good budget price to get people into the sport
The Marlin is still way behind the ball geometry wise, nearly 2° different in seat and head angle. I'd sooner go with a Specialized Chisel, if you wanted a relatively cheap aluminum frame.
I don't think the US has the Gen 3 marlin yet:
www.trekbikes.com/gb/en_GB/bikes/mountain-bikes/cross-country-mountain-bikes/marlin/marlin-8-gen-3/p/36969
74STA and 66.5 HTA - not bad on a genuine budget bike! In lots of sizes as well...
With the Hayduke - is STA at sag or unsagged? If unsagged, once sagged it might not be great for long days in the saddle. I would rather make a STA steeper by moving the saddle forward than slacker by moving it back - the latter increases the likelihood of bending seat rails (I am a fat b@stard).
Component spec is always a subjective topic. I guess for me the kind of features that would make the bike stand out more would be things that other 'similar' bikes don't offer like head angle adjustability (say 2 deg between options) and being able to raise/lower BB relative to rear wheel axle (I drew up some sliders for my bikes, but haven't been ae to get them made a competitive price yet - need to look farther and wider) to make it able to be the ONLY hardtail you need.
I'd still go Hayduke, that frame space is paramount if it's seeing any sort of touring miles.
Hoping rear tire clearance was addressed too?
The Japhy (and the Hayduke) does clear 29x2.8 in the 437mm chainstay position. Being that 3.0 tires are all but vaporware at this point, we are not designing around them.
Tim
Most of us like to ride our bikes all over the place and want a well balanced bike that can handle it all. Riding a slack bike on 85% of trails feels like you are pushing a heavy sled around.
But if I'm paying retail (and I probably am...)
+ $1,000 - frame
+ $1,000 - hand built wheels from local shop with equivalent hubs
+ $1,000 - Performance Elite or Factory Fork
+ $350 - dropper + lever + saddle
+ $250 - stem + bars + grips
+ $350 - brakes + rotors
+ $200 - shifter + derailleur + housing
-------------------
$4,150
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I guess this is (one reason) why my builds always go over budget
I know manufacturers aren't paying retail. But they are paying for commercial space, employees, equipment, prototypes, etc.
Selling a bike at cost of materials would be a net loss for them. Hence the mark up that's unattractive to savy buyers who can wait for deals on the parts that they want and install those parts themselves.
Personally, if a custom parts-spec from the frame up is only $250 more than the manufacturer spec that contains compromises (for me), I'll pony up the extra $250 for the parts that I want. YMMV.
Should add it all on a Excel spreadsheet to keep control on the costs.