Hope have been making hubs for 30 years. In that time they've built a reputation for reliability, serviceability, and quality. They don't update their products on a regular basis - they released the Pro 4 hub back in 2016 - but today they're launching the next generation Pro 5.
One of Hope's main goals for the Pro 5 was to reduce drag in the drive mechanism. This, they say, was achieved with a new "zero drag labyrinth seal, and an improved ratchet and pawl system, with new springs." Apparently, these also increase durability and reliability compared to the Pro 4.
PRO 5 Details
• Faster engagement (108 points). • Claimed lower drag & better reliability • Stiffer hub shell and bigger bearings • Available with all major freehub, disc, spoke, and axle standards • Interchangeable end caps to fit different axle widths • Price:from £220 (rear) / £95 (front) • More information: hopetech.com
If you swap from a Pro 4 to a Pro 5, you're probably more likely to notice the faster freehub pickup; the number of engagement points has gone from 44 to 108 - meaning the freehub engagement angle has gone from 8.2 to 3.3 degrees. The Pro 5 uses an offset six-pawl design with a 54-tooth ratchet ring, where two sets of three pawls engage the ratchet alternately. There is also an e-bike version, where all 6 pawls engage simultaneously for higher durability but half the points of engagement (54).
The Pro 5 is more than a few upgrades - it's a full overhaul, with a stiffer hub shell, a new axle design, and bigger bearings.
It's available in pretty much every configuration you might need. There are HG, XD and Microspline freehubs; Centerlock or 6-bolt rotor mounting, straight pull or J-bend spoke drillings with 24, 28, 32, or 36 holes. There are hubs for trials and e-bikes and there are 100 and 110 mm front hubs and 135/142; 148 and 150/157 mm rear hubs. Adapters are available to switch between 100 & 110; 150 & 157, or 135 & 142 mm axles (see compatibility table below).
Impressively, Hope say they'll continue making spare parts for ten years after a product is discontinued. The Pro 5 is due in stock at retailers from March 1st.
It's good to see spares continuing to be made for discontinued products for a number of years. It shows a little more respect for the end user and moves away from the throwaway mentality many of us have (or are made to have) when something breaks or needs servicing.
Would be good to see more companies making this kind of commitment to their products.
I reckon if it wasn't for the marketing department thisbhub wouldn't exist. We'd probably still be on the pro 2 to be honest.
Higher POE is marketing driven and it will be interesting to see how it affects reliability.
The evoke version with the six pawls simultaneously engaging and a steel body is a fantastic idea though.
Anyway a big thumbs up from me. I'd have some if making new wheels any time soon.
I wonder if the new driver can be retrofitted into the Pro 4 with the toolkit mentioned.
I was a Hape lover for years, never had issue to service them or get any spares etc. But in world where little thing matters, I betrayed Hope towards other British company starting with H.... as I needed more engagement. They do have good support with backup parts etc as well.
All I was Hoping to see is a hub with even more engagement from Hope
I find that they dont sell all the hubs spare parts. As i have a young hope pro 4 hub, with a blown ratchet ring. Cant seem to buy them anywhere, which is a shame.
@up-left-down-right: Ran into that same problem myself two weeks ago. Luckily for me Hope are replacing it under warranty, but offering hub shells (something they used to do) would be a good move.
@jaame: The Trials/SS hubs have always used two groups of pawls (as the regular Pro 5 does now) to give higher engagement than the regular versions of the hubs. Trials puts way more force through the hub than other disciplines so there's not much to worry about from that front. I believe the only reason they didn't implement it on the regular hubs before was extra drag, which it seems like they've tried mitigating with the new design.
I know plenty of riders who have trimmed two of the pawls down in their Pro 4 hubs to simulate the trials hub and get extra engagement too with no issues.
For awkward, tech climbs (and even awkward/janky tech flatter/downhill trails) having the extra engagement speed is nice. I went from a really low engagement hub to a Halo Supadrive hub and it was a night and day difference in how my bike felt, and how it made some sections of trail easier to ride clean. I ended up replacing that hub with a Pro 4, and although every other part of the hub was an upgrade the step down in engagement points did suck to have to get used to again.
It's not the be-all and end-all but that extra engagement can be helpful when it's achieved in a sensible way.
@Jprestidge: Probably not, but I got Halo hub for two years now and it's no point to spend £220 for "ghe newest technologies" from Hope and still a bit les engagement. Will be nicer if they come forward with new tech to distance themselves from competitors.
@up-left-down-right: They don't sell the drive ring because it is pressed into the hub shell, it doesn't thread in like a DT Swiss hub. I had a Pro 4 that the drive ring started slipping in the hub shell. Hope warrantied the shell, which was great, but it was my second failure. I'm about 95kg and using 50 tooth cassette, so it sees a lot of torque, but I'd guess I'm not the only person who has had that failure. I switched to a DT350.
@Muckal: Racing 4x , dj and more. Allbiker is know for ripping any bike! If you bike park sloth , it's no difference to you if you run 44 or 120 engaigment points hub
@boss-matsumoto: yes it does, more POE theoratically worsen pedal kickback, especially when paired with todays miniature chain rings run by those who like to crawl up some techy climbs seated at just about walking pace.
@mjscyclery: Happy for you, the poit was: it is a late update and not putting Hope ahead of their competitors. Everyone will ride what they want, I spend many years on Hope components and simply with time wasn't enough. And now all keyboard warriors, give me all down votes because I expressed my opinion
@bohns1: I'm currently on a two year old set of 4s having had 2s and 3s (remember those with the direct mount discs?). The only way they could be improved is by making them totally silent, in my opinion.
@allbiker: Man, why did you have to drop this bombshell? How am I ever going to ride my DT 240s with only 36 measly points of engagement? Time to sell it all I guess and take up hiking.
The availability of spares are a requirement for me when choosing for a new product. Luckily Hope isn't the only one offering spares. I can get spares for my DT440 hubs too. When was that one discontinued? The good thing about Hope of course is, they can continue to make spares as they machine their stuff so they're not so dependent on stock or series. I wonder how they compare to (their more budget-competitor) Superstarcomponents in that department. Their earliest hubs weren't made in house, but their current products are.
As the for the POE, yeah I also prefer the lower number. Lower freehub drag implies that the chain tension at the top part of the chain stays higher (as the rear sprocket isn't pushing forwards that much) hence you get better chain retention. And that is much, much more important to me than the higher POE. High POE is helpful on slow speed tech stuff but I need to be honest and admit that if I don't make it up a climb, I shouldn't blame that on my equipment.
@jaame: Very true my DT 350 Hybrid with only 24 POE shift better, more reliably (especially under load) than my Pro 4 w/54 POE on other bike. Both ebikes, notice the lower POE better with higher torque driven bike. High POE driven hubs is not all that. I do like idea of less drag with Pro 5 vs 4 that I feel has a fair amount. Super impressed with DT 350 Hybrid so far with zero maintenance/bearing replacement in almost 2 years of heavy use in PacNW, whereas Pro 4 requires more servicing and bearing replacement periodically.
@jgusta: I also got the 350 Hybrid, actually just because I wanted a steel freehub body . The flanges are mighty thick though. Until then I laced rear wheels so that the drive side spokes had the outside spokes trailing and the non-drive side spokes leading (because of the brake) but this got really difficult and eventually I just laced both sizes with the outside spokes trailing.
@jaame: @jaame: oh jeez, We as consumers drive the economy, trying to blame marketing is a lazy, and easy out for yours, and all of our own desire for new, better, different. A quick look at your 5 pages of buy and sell is a testament to that.
Higher engagement isn’t marketing driven, so people just prefer something different to you, that doesn’t make it better or worse, just different. Stop trying to justify your decision and preferences by putting others down.
I prefer a rear hub in the 70ish POE, but have ones with 36, and some ungodly high number. You wanna tell me I’m wrong, or that I’m just following what’s in fashion?
@allbiker: As far as I'm aware they're still doing the Trials/SS version even though it's not listed here. I'm hoping they'll update it to make it actually a singlespeed hub (more like the Industry Nine singlespeed hubs), but I think the limitation they have with that is the blanks they use for the hubshells and not being able to go wide enough.
@als802: If the drive ring is truly pressed into the hub on the Pro 5, it's no different from a Bontrager Rapid Drive hub with 108 POE. But the Ring drive on the Pro 5 looks to be threaded in from the visualizations. I'll have to check that.
Is there a good reason to thread it in? Fair enough, you don't want everything to fall apart trailside when you remove the wheel from your bike (literally throwing sand in the works) but I wonder whether things can seize when they're treaded like that. Somehow I've got an intuition that a large diameter but short length thread isn't such a good idea, but I can't give examples of a similar approach that has gone wrong. But yeah, usually a standard O-ring is sufficient to keep parts from spontaneously falling apart like that. The groove is easy to produce on a lathe and if the O-ring wears out it is cheap to replace. I'm curious whether there might be an other reason to go for the thread that I didn't think of.
@als802: The Pro 4 is threaded too - I was talking to the warranty guy at Hope about it a week or two ago when I was getting my stripped hub sorted under warranty. They have been for almost all the Pro line of hubs as far as I'm aware.
@vinay: The Pro 5 is different in terms of axle diameter and ratchet diameter so nothing will be cross-compatible with the Pro 4.
They're still offering steel HG freehub bodies though. I've been running one on my Pro 4 and had some issues getting my cassette off that due to the usual thing of the cassette rings digging into the body - hate to think how much faff it would have been on an alloy version!
@allbiker: I just checked your buy/sell listing. You really get off Hope hubs , so many for sale That will explain your comment, clearly you had some experience with them and expectations from new model. FAIR PLAY !
@als802: Hope Pro 4 ratchet rings are right hand threaded with loctite into the hub shell using a Hope specific socket (not available to buy). Takes careful heating and a lot of leverage to remove hence why repair should only be done by Hope themselves.
In a past I commented on here under this article and had so many positive feedback I decided to get set of Pro 5 hubs myself and give you some updates.
I can't express how disappointed I am after noticing stuff HOPE didn't describe in their press release/video above or any seller will tell you in their description.
Got a set with steel freehub body, unfortunately it's not 108 engaigment points, only 54.
12 clicks more than standard Pro 4 hub! Wow, massive increase compared to Pro 4. Worth every penny to throw old Pro 4 and spend money on new Pro 5 !
They said on video above, e-bike version have 54 engaigment points but no one said that the steel version is the "only e-bike option" !
So you can't have 108 engaigment points with steel freehub! Looks like those who uses e-bikes with sram XD drivers can't get steel version, as its only HG
So , everyone who used Pro 4 with alloy HG freehub and 11 or 12 speed cassette on it , know how sprockets dig in to freehub
Obviously solutions is steel freehub, and with Pro 4 was no issue, works perfectly and no difference in engaigment.
Unfortunately with Pro 5 they advertise it as 108 engaigment points but, no one said only on alloy version of the freehub.
Looks like all "gas to flat" riders who are fed up with alloy freehub issues, are half victims as they don't get full 108 engaigment on their steel freehub, only 54.
Lots of you is thinking, I'll get new whees build on new Pro 5 and I'll get nearly 3 times more engaigment for faster power transfer and respond. You get steel freehub for durability and then you will notice what I just noticed. 54 bloody engaigment points just becouse someone made marketing trick and didn't specify all information needed to their customers and potential sellers/distributors !
I messageed to Hope but no comments so far! Sad news , I was really HOPE-ing for a real deal with new stuff.
Apologies for being sarcastic and if I'm wrong get me steel HG freehub with 108 engaigment points I paid for !
@allbiker: Do you feel you need that many POE for your riding? I can imagine it helps for low speed technical climbing in a light gear but would you notice on the fast stuff on a heavy gear? I have no experience with their rear hubs but I have consciously bought a DT 350 Hybrid hub which is intended for pedal assist too (even though I don't have pedal assist). I think a low number of POE makes it possible to make a stronger freehub system, which helps for heavy pedaling and/or pedal assist with a mid-motor. I accept it is a bit harder for me on technical climbs but that's mostly a matter of timing.
@vinay: Its not the point here, do people need it or not. I expressed myself on that one when this article was uploaded on here. Point is why company like Hope advertising their new product as 108 POE and alloy and steel freehub option, but in this same time not clarifying that the steel version will be only 54 POE.
Lots of customers will try to go steel freehub for durability and then realise they spend their not cheap money to swap Pro 4 for Pro 5 and not getting all that benefits described as a "New better" hub.
Many will want more POE , in this same time many will not notice the difference due to being just average riders.
But many will be pissed off!
I'm a bike mechanic as well rider and build wheels for many people , some friends/racers in between. Some of them do need to have more POE as they benefit from it on every step on pedals to be closer to win medals!
What I don't understand why company like HOPE wasn't honest and inform customers that steel freehub is only available in 54 POE and all alloy freehubs 108 !
@allbiker: I don't know about you but I usually don't make my buying decision for the more expensive stuff on just the introduction page. I look into the specs of the particular product I'm looking for. If you were after a 148x12 rear hub, I'd look here (www.hopetech.com/products/hubs/mountain-bike/pro-5-148mm-boost-rear, in the slideshow at the bottom until they discuss the e-bike version) and here (www.hopetech.com/product-documents/hubs/#!pro-5-rear, where it already says in the descriptions that the e-bike versions have 54 POE). Not sure how much it matters for the people who actually run these with pedal assist. I understand that on an e-bike, the chainring spins independently from the cranks, is that correct? I always thought you only got assistance making it go round but someone on this forum told me that the chainring does spin independently (so that an oval chainring doesn't make sense, which was the context of that discussion). Yes they could have made it more clear but the information was available. Maybe they didn't expect people would run an e-bike specific hub on a bike without assistance and yes I'm doing the very same thing (yet with a DT 350 Hybrid hub with 24POE iirc).
@vinay: Again you missing the point No where was told steel freehub is for e-bike only, never was with Pro4's eider.
Put yourself in to theoretical situation, let sey DtSwiss relise new hub. Lets call it DT-400 and in description say 88 POE, you ordered one with happines and when she arrived you realize its only 44 POE. What was the point of spending money if no upgrade was made ?
I do check my stuff, I'm a bike mechanic as a job and I'm a rider too (not average). I'm not crying for myself as I don't run Hope hubs for few years now except my Dj/pump track bike. But my customers bitch about it as I just explained that to them.
Simply, Hope did't make it fair by not clarifying that info to public !
P.S.
If you never run Hope hubs and higher POE don't mean anything to you , don't get in to comments in this conversation please.
@vinay: allbiker is right on that one. I looked up on Chainreactioncycles and description say 108 PoE and you can pick any option alloy or steel. Nothing is mentioned that steel freehub is for e-bike only or that you will have half of PoE !
Sucks , as I was hoping to get set with steel freehub.
@boss-matsumoto: I was about to leave! Not sure how much control Hope has over what Chainreaction prints on their website. Indeed the Hope Pro4 wasn't designed for pedal assist in particular and the steel freehub body was for whoever wanted that. Now maybe I'm looking in the wrong place but I don't really see the steel freehub body being mentioned, except in the context of e-bikes. The image in the link below is from the first link I mentioned.
I quote: "All six pawls engage simultaneously reducing engagement but greatly increasing load capacity and durability".
It is also being explained in the video on that page from 3:20 onwards. They don't mention the steel freehub before they go into the subject of pedal assist. It is the two things they mention for that hub: reduced engagement and the steel freehub body.
@boss-matsumoto: Ok, I won't walk out of this discussion then. @allbiker made a statement and by engaging in the discussion (which I already did) I should at least try to understand the original issue. Which would be that Hope mentions the possibility of running a steel freehub body without mentioning the reduced number of POE that come with that. I already pointed at three places on the Hope consumer website where this (how the steel freehub body comes with 54POE) is being mentioned (the image, the video and the product documentation). What I did miss is, where does Hope mention the possibility of running a steel freehub body on the Pro5 hub WITHOUT mentioning the reduced number of POE? That's the source of the confusion so that's what we should be discussing. And I mean info from Hope, not a retailer like CRC as obviously that's the retailer's responsibility, not Hope's. Considering @allbiker is a professional mechanic, he may have got his information through a workshop catalog which us end consumers don't have access to (but which still originates from Hope). If that is the case, I can see how both @allbiker as well as CRC missed it.
@vinay: I just looked up on your profile. No photos, no sale items, no location or age. Even trailforks account not public... You been a PB member since 2011 and all you do is comments. I guess you have no purpose or meaning in your life and all you do is bothering people on here. I would employ you as customer advisor, but according to your profile you have no experience and you potentiall are annoying person... Can't trust you as you said you leaving and minutes later you back.
It's Mental Health awareness week in UK, I will leave you to rest.
@boss-matsumoto: That's a lot of irrelevance in a discussion about a rear hub. Yes I was leaving the discussion but you called me within an hour? You mean to say you wanted to call me but didn't want me to respond? Do you actually have a purpose in life then? Either way, next time you call me, I'll ignore you. I wasn't aware your mental health worker wrote that in your user manual so sorry for that. Won't happen again.
Yes, Pinkbike is different things to different people. I view it as a magazine with a possibility to discuss the articles. Others use it as a marketplace, others as kind of a social media channel. All good. I'm not using all the options indeed. I actually had a few pictures up here but didn't agree with the new Outside policy so they kindly removed them upon request.
Either way, I got back here hoping prevent the issue @allbiker ran into. So yeah, once he gets back here he can point out where he found Hope documentation where the steel freehub option was mentioned without making clear that this comes with 54POE instead of 108. Until then, there is nothing to do for me here.
@vinay: @boss-matsumoto@allbiker Easy there guys, OP was a bit bummed that Hope didn’t make it clear about the POE of the hub he wanted, so he’s publicly annoyed with that. Let him be annoyed, no sense in trying to solve his annoyance with facts and your personal opinions that are irrelevant after the fact. Hes bummed, and prolly out a couple hundred bucks, and still doesn’t have the hub he thinks he wants.
After being burned by Chris King discontinue all their legacy ISO hub parts, I decided not to support companies that do not produce parts for discontinued products. Hope seems like a good alternative now.
When did CK stop supporting ISO? I cracked a spoke flange on an almost 20 year old hub a couple of years ago and they sent me a new hub shell, no questions asked.
@somebody-else: I live in the UK and conditions are always sloppy, gritty and wet. Even with the clay clag getting everywhere I have gone 2 years easily on one set of bearings.
@endorium: here goes from blown out dusty to sandy wet and some clay mud too. I still liked them, but the bearings on my DT Swiss hubs lasted a lot longer in the same conditions.
@VtVolk: They have discontinued their non-boost + ISO hubs in 2019 and stopped selling parts for them. You cannot even get Fun bolts for 12mm rear axle now.
@BikeTrials: And also, historically they were more of a niche company, they had a lot more offerings: Singlespeed hubs, Stainless singlespeed cogs, Campagnolo freehub options. None of those offerings exist anymore. Getting the spare parts is no joke. Last time I emailed about ISO axels for their SS hubs to be able to run 142mm through axle they had no interest in making any of those parts anymore due to lower demand.
I think people also forget years of marketing a superior headset (their bearings are indeed great), but the thin washer design was inferior to the aheadset split compression washer. That seemed pretty obvious when they implemented that design the same year the aheadset patent expired.
Hope or White Industries would be at the top of my list on my next build.
How long have you had the hub? Can you say you got your moneys worth? Is is 135mm? At some point you have to upgrade. We have a project Toyota minivan from 1980. I don’t expect to be able to walk into the dealership and get all the parts we need for it.
@Shaundh: The nonboost rear hubs from Chris King has been produced right up to 2019, quite far from 1980. There are people with barely 3 year old hubs from Chris King who cannot buy replacement parts for it. This is not normal. As for the 135mm spacing, it is still quite common to see that for single speed trials or dirtjump bikes who do not require the extra 11/12 speed spacing the boost hubs were designed for.
We’re atill running Pro 2s on our bikes without any complaints. I guess we’ll upgrade when they wear out. It’s nice to have older stuff supported for 10 years or more. 10 years is pretty much forever in the world of MTB when everyone insists on upgrading every year or so for the next marketing wonder
Yes, mine went 10+ years without needing any maintenance whatsoever. After a quick bearing swap and regrease, they've been good since. It's one instance where buying quality is worth it for the long haul!!
Love hope products but the Pro4s had too little engagement. Glad they have increased it. If I build any wheels in the future these are definitely on the list
@trinidad66: it's interesting how that very video is exactly what Hope ended up doing here for the 5s. Offset pawls. I'm sure Hope frowned upon anyone doing this mod to their older hubs but now it's cool so long as Hope is the one making the $$ on it.
Beautifully made, as ever, but offer no advantages over DT350 or DT240S which are cheaper, much lighter, and also bomb-proof, and no proprietary tools needed. Love what Hope stand for, but personally I've never been attracted to their overpriced, heavy hubs, no matter how reliable and good to look at.
One clear advantage to me (and HOPEfully still true for the Pro5): you van change bearing with a screwdriver and a mallet as oposed to a special tool, a vice and some good HOPES nothing but the threading will go loose.
@danstonQ: DT 350 are good but if you take any Hope hubs,350 looks like a cheap build,average finish and 0 bling. I got 350s in my wheels and they are cheap but do not roll very free compared to almost any other hub I owned in the past. Very reliable hubs but my next build would be Hope or I9.
@homerjm: Reckon your hubs need a service bud. The 350 and 240s should be near drag free, especially if you put the right grease and super thin oil in. Agree they don't look anything special, but I personally never look at the hubs much, they just help the wheels go round, without any issues I do love the Hope brand, I just never get the hype on the hubs.
@cyclopathic-uk: They are like that since day 0,not much drag free compared to others. maybe my hubs are bad or something but the guy who build the wheels told me 350 are like that,not the kind of hub you touch the wheel and keep spinning forever.
@danstonQ: biggest issue with DT is that the end caps fall off too easily. seen more than one cassette and star ratchet escape into the woods fixing a flat
DT hubs are nice but they definitely need proprietary tools. Requires an expensive drive ring tool just to replace the drive side bearing. Historically hope hubs can be fully serviced with just a hammer. Also they come in colors.
@pakleni: I realize that. Was just adding that the 1/1 are also an awesome hub for the $. They are a little pricier than the 350’s, I agree. I’ve run both and would recommend either.
@knarrr: yup, kind of a first word problem, but true nonetheless. One time had a end cap falling off to oblivion on a bike being air freighted, lost two or three days of riding at the destination while trying to source a cap locally
@knarrr: 24 years of running *many* sets, never had one fall off. In my experience they come off easily yes, but when you pull them off, not randomly. Another reason why they're a piece of cake to work on. Each to their own though!
@cyclopathic-uk IDK about 350s being bombproof, I've got a set on my road bike and some of the splines on the freehub body are smushed through by the individual gears on the cassette.
@cyclopathic-uk: pro4 are heavy hubs? There’s like a 35g difference between a pro4 and a 350 not exactly ludicrous.
Sealing is much better on Hope hubs much better suited for British slop. I didn’t notice much sealing at all on 350s
There’s no proprietary tools at all for a pro4 …you can get hub support tools but they aren’t necessary.
Unlike the 350s which actually do need a proprietary tool to do a bearing change.
As for cheaper, 350s RRP I think they’re £10 cheaper but you have 18 POE …so have to get an 54t ‘upgrade kit’ at £80 just to bring them up to a similar level to a pro4.
@cyclopathic-uk: ehh, I've had a set of Chris Kings the same length of time I've used on multiple mountain bikes, probably with more actual miles on them, and they have a little deformation but no where close to how bad the 350 freehub is.
@cyclopathic-uk: I replaced my alloy freehub with steel on my Pro 2 last year cause I was using a cheaper 9 speed cassette and it got locked up (twisted onto) the alum. Shouldn’t have that problem with the steel from now on!
Actually, getting the DS bearing out of the rear hub requires a proprietary tool with the ratchet and exp ratchet hubs. The 3 pawl hubs could be serviced without removing the drive ring. You have to remove the drive ring from the hub to get it out so you can replace the DS bearing. Those tools are available aftermarket and are not super expensive but are definitely proprietary.
@aer0: I've been riding a set of Hydra's since they first came out, cleaning and using some Dumonde Tech oil every few months (if that) and haven't had a single issue with them. My newer bike, an ebike has Hydra's too, though I've only had it since July (but put 1200mi on it), again - zero issues. :shrug:
@cyclopathic-uk: This is one of the design features I like about the White Industries hubs, they make all of their freehubs out of 6/4 titanium to help reduce chances of this while saving a bit of weight over stainless.
@Jammers91: You can get 240S for a chunk less than Hopes, and you're then talking about ~180g difference, and they're every bit the hub for UK slop. As for the ratchets, these can be bought for about £35-50, and end up with more PoE than Hopes. I'll reiterate again though, I love the hope brand, just from someone who has no bias as we supply them all, we find DT240S are the reference hubs.
@cyclopathic-uk: are you just pulling these numbers out of your arse? The weight difference between a pair of boost, j-bend hope pro4’s and dt 240s is 136 grams. Also comparing 240s on some unreferenced sale to the rrp of hopes is a stupid argument.
@spicysparkes: If you stop trolling for a sec you'll probably realise and remember that the weight difference depends on the Hope model. The hub weight differences above are measured on our Park Tool scales, and I don't recall pulling anything out of my seating apparatus to take the measurement. Sure, some of the hubset types have less weight differences, some have more. Take a breath before you verbally vomit on the forums. Speaking of which, who said I was referencing RRP? The real measure is of what the public can buy them for, and simply put if you take 15 mins online you'll always find 240S for the same or less. Fact. I've genuinely got no interest in who buys what. What I do have an interest in is in people knowing the facts about things. Hope do great things, we've built many wheelsets with them, they're bombproof. But so are DT Swiss, White Industries, P321, I9, King etc. From 22+ years of building and racing bikes, when asked the best all round hubs, we'd go for DT Swiss.
Big advantage of Hope front hubs is you can convert them between 15mm and 20mm with just end caps, so you don't have to have a backup wheel for your DH bike.
A Hope 148 boost 6 bolt XD Drive is 305g You’re telling me a 240S in the same spec is 125g? I don’t think so.
But from my looking about online a 240S or 240 in the same setup is around the 230g mark… I’ll hand it 75g is decent. but would probably pay the 70g price for a decent sounding hub.
Talking about real world price not RRP? A 240S looks discontinued from what I can see I did see one reduced at £266… and a new 240 the cheapest I’ve found on a quick look is £233 that’s not including your £50 ratchet ‘upgrade’
A quick search of a pro4 first 3 websites are selling them for £120 Even the £180 rrp is cheaper than your discounted 240
As for sealing… a little black o-ring around the freehub body is hardly brilliant, every wheelset I’ve used which comes standard on bikes and has little seals like that the bearings are always shot a year or so down the line.
I’ve had multiple Hope hubs now and I’ve yet to do a bearing change… in fact I’m dying to do one just so I can see how hard/easy the process is.
It’s the same with their headsets every oem headset has rubbish sealing for British weather and a year down the line they’re rough and done for… replace with hopes and I’m waiting for the day they give up.
Here’s some weight comparisons …still not seen a single rear 240 hub below 200g or at a difference of 180g
No advantages over DT? Ratchet system cannot even achieve 108 POE. The best they can do is 54 or aftermarket 60 POE which many have reported skipping because the surface areas for engagement are too small. DT makes a great road hub (where high engagement is not needed) but the design is inherently limited to relatively low engagement. The most reliable will be 18T which sounds and feels like crap! To each their own but if you want high engagement, DT is NOT the answer. I look forward to replacing my 350 on my XC wheelset. Reliable bu mediocre performance.
@knarrr: And the end cap design for the front hub is just dumb. It’s loose until you put the axle through it. Sometimes it binds on perfectly good bearings and it’s difficult to remove and replace them without some kind of tool. It’s just a bad design. People love DT hubs but I have grown to hate mine. Looking forward to going back to Hope when these drop
@zamanfu: You mean 36t? Because the 54t skips for many under heavy torque. I Can clear any section with 36 or 54 but it’s way nicer on the 108. Like using a dropper vs not. We all rode without them back in the day but it’s a def performance upgrade once you start using it. I have both and I prefer the higher engagement. DT cannot provide that.
@Jammers91: You seem articulate, and as such I'm not sure why you can't read about 5+ times on here, I and our shop are Hope fans. On the 28h hubs we have here, there's 104g difference between the rear hubs, and 76g difference in the fronts, I don't need to spell the maths. As for longevity, we've never had either a Hope or a DT240 back, and we and our customers ride them year round, so it would seem the DT sealing does the job nicely. Live and let live. Because you love your Hopes, great, but don't troll others for expressing honest opinions, especially when they're based on more than an individual's personal experience. All the best, happy trails on your Hope hubs, Hope headset, and all the other parts. Peace out.
@cyclopathic-uk: no mate I read you’re a fan of Hope in your shop. What annoys me is your false statements about not about hope hubs being “overpriced”, “heavy” and DT Swiss not requiring proprietary tools
When in fact they do require proprietary tools… regardless of how cheap you can get the tool.
Overpriced? Tell me why they are overpriced? Like where are you getting that from? Even at RRP hopes are absolute value for money. But most of the time you can absolutely get them as cheap as £120 for the rears depending on your colour and setup preference.
240 front boost 15mm 6 bolt - £115 240 rear boost XD - £233 (not including your ratchet upgrade of £59)
Pro5 front - £95 rrp Pro5 rear - £220 rrp Still cheaper and not even released yet with double the engagement (if that matters to you)
For a locally produced product with the level of support, exploded parts diagrams. Every single bit, bolt, spring and washer has a part number and you can order them well past end of production. With Interchangeable end caps to swap wheels between bikes.
Similar to Hope domestically produced CNC’d rear hubs with equal levels of support and colour options: Chris King - £550~ I9 - £440~ Onyx - £420~ Profile - £394~
For Pro5s even at the new RRP of £220 they’re an absolute steal for what you’re getting.
Again tell me why these are overpriced? Or are you the one trolling?
And as for weight like for like same spec for same spec the weights are marginal… and the hopes are still lighter than the likes of chris king and onyx. But what you seem to be comparing is lightest option vs heaviest.. a centrelock, straight pull, XD vs a steel body HG.
So whilst I get you’re not opposed to Hope don’t just sit there and spout nonsense about them being overpriced when they’re far from it.
@jammers1991: Take a chill pill bud. In fairness the prices are reasonable compared to the ones you put above. As for the weights, dispute all you like, they were like-for-like same types, measured with 3-month old Park Tool scales, but hey, apparently you know better by some keyboard warrior work? All the best to you bud, life's too short for this thread and responding to rants.
@cyclopathic-uk: mate there a link above with actual weights and pictures, you've got neither of those and a 30 gram difference. Manufacturing differences wouldn't even make up half that. I'd be getting a refund on that fancy scale you keep talking about.
One of the things I would love most would be a hub with Hope build quality, serviceability and configurability, but.....silent.
Onyx are not a viable option.
@fluider as @jaame says, they're just far too expensive to justify. I don't rate hubs as a place to spend money, rather save it for brakes and tyres. Hope are on the upper end of what I'd justify and I like them on my DH bike with a full face on not being able to hear them. Used to love obnoxious, loud hubs but these days for trail bikes etc I prefer a silent bike. Just the sound of tyres on dirt and the occasional HONK of panic braking.
Aivee does this. Worth trying them...
Otherwise, regreasing the freehub's ratchets and springs can significatively reduce its noise, sometimes... but it doesn't work with Hope hubs unfortunately.
@jaame: why buy a pair? There is no reason they need to match. Still that is crazy expensive. I got a vesper rear hub and it was pricey but I love ev getting all it it aside from the price. My front hub is actually a hope though an even cheaper one would be fine I'm sure. I made many hope wheels for the rest in the past and have had great luck with them. Parts in the us are not super easy to get though.
@Zayphod: been running their Shogun hubs on my hardtail for about 5 years now. Zero issues. I'd buy again. Been following their progress on the development of their latest hubs, very open about what works and didn't work, and how they correct. Interesting to follow the process. Would definitely try out their silent hub set.... although I'm certain the angry bees of the Shogun keeps some of the wildlife off the trail for me
Just my usual friendly reminder that the Project 321 hubs address all the concerns voiced in this ^^ typical Hope vs DT vs I9 etc discussion. Want high poe and low drag and quiet or loud noise options? Magnets baby. And easy servicing with standard tools.
@Takaya94: who cares, just buy the current ones. I've had a set for about 4 years and they roll faster than anything else I've tried. I have these, I-9 1-11 and King iso hubs on my 3 bikes currently. Had heaps of king, pro 2 and pro 4 (which I hated for their drag hence buying P321). The quality is top notch but the ride is an unbelievable difference, it truly is a noticeable thing on the trail.
@ReubenSandwich: Um I care? Thats why I asked? I know the current ones are great but you dont know whats to come so you cant say its not worth waiting for the new ones. Honestly Im mostly just curious though as I dont need new hubs right at this moment. Always stoked on new tech, whether Im buying it or not.
Have had zero issues on all my Hope4’s and kinda like a little less engagement for my big bike. I’d definitely get these next for my trail bike though in polished silver.
@delarscuevas: yep - 6 pawls and springs rather than 4, a larger diameter steel ratchet ring, larger diameter bearings, more seals - that all points to an increase to me.
There's probably a good reason for that. I was looking too. It'll be because their marketers know that they're still *way* off the pace on weight Vs DT240 reference.
@cyclopathic-uk: all the Hope hubs I've had have been on the weightier side, but they've always been incredibly well sealed and near enough immune to the British slop. Unlike my I9s that are far more prone to needing a bearing replacement.
@samfr1000: DT Swiss are every bit as durable, easier and simpler to service, and lighter and more expensive. Apart from the local manufacturing, and colour selection, whilst I love the Hope brand, there's better value, lighter hubs out there.
@Jprestidge: Ever heard of sprung and unsprung weight? It makes a difference. I'm no weight weenie, but extra weight, *and extra cost*, for no mechanical gain seems pointless to me. Plus, DT240S are about 150-180g less per set, so not sure where you get 60g from.
@cmi85: you could weigh yourself on your bike before and after your wife (or significant other) knocks the sense out of you for buying yet another expensive bike component.
@cyclopathic-uk: So you think you can discern a 100g difference in unsprung weight on, for example, a rear total unsprung weight of 4kgs? That’s a 2.5% difference.. Sounds like nonsense to me.
@Jprestidge: nah, not at all, I'm just saying in light of those extra bits the hub won't be lighter than the Pro 4. If it is then fair play to Hope, they've worked some magic on it!
@Jprestidge: If you want to pay a chunk more money, to buy a subset a chunk heavier, be my guest. I find weight savings where they don't cost a fortune, and don't compromise function and durability. That hunslet difference alone is 1/3 lb, and the savings on a wheelset do matter, arguably it's where you *do* feel the savings, not least in times.
@cyclopathic-uk: Curiosity has gotten the better of me and I just can't help myself. Do you have only DT Swiss tatoo or several? Just the logo, or did you get more creative than that?
@dancingwithmyself: I do yes, the tattoo says "Ignore the hype, buy with your brain". If you need me to explain, let me know, as I suspect you might not get it first time. Hope you've had a rest anyway, as that imaginative and valuable post must have taken it out of you! If you want to be a Hope fanboy, go ahead, as I've said about 15 times in this thread, they're a great brand, and mostly locally produced. But, for their hubs, *being objective without fanboy emotion* (try it sometime), they're heavier, more expensive, and more complicated to service. My customers buy both, but the common reasons for buying the hopes being the colour options, and the notion they're British made.
@dustyquail: I had pro 4 version on previous bike and I really hate that you have to pedal to be able to talk with your buddies while cruising.
Now I have a wheelset with xtr hubs, I know it´s a mess inside, but damn that silencer is something, I can hear only the suspension and tires hugging the ground.
@bok-CZ: I like a slightly buzzy hub, it makes me feel like I'm going faster that I really am! I think Hopes have just the right level of sound, not insane like Profile or Chaos, but nice sounding especially when broken-in.
I've been curious about those silent hubs cus yeah totally with you on tread and suspension sounds being the best thing ever. But I feel like if my hub was totally silent, I would have to always make sure my bike was dialed 100% of the time since every squeak and rattle would be a reminder of my lazy maintenance habits.
Idk these PRO5's sound like the sweet spot, as a current pro4 owner who was looking at Hydras for a little more engagement and a little more buzz, these new 5's check those boxes for me. I'd keep my trusty Pro4's on my "bike park" wheelset, and maybe build up a new trail wheelset on these Pro5's, but who knows, I'm still totally 100% stoked on my Pro4's.
I didn’t know what I was missing with higher engagement hubs until I got one! That was a long time ago when Hadley was making about the only one I could find. Riding flats, being able ratcheting through ugly trail and always having power on downhills is hard to beat. I tried going back to lower engagement hubs from ibis. The i9 I have now are freaking sweet. Easy to service and everything! I bet these hope 5 hubs will be great too!
First thing I said to myself too!! I always been on dt swiss 350 but just put some purple pro4 to fit with my hope brakes....hope it will be tough enough but anyway, really sad to see another brand stopping their fatbike products!
@maestroman21: Yes probably, let's hope so, but seeing there's no fat size of this pro5 hub shows that fatbikes are dying more and more. I gotta say, if I were to get a new fatbike (I only recently got mine, a Farley 5 with a discount, as I had no money to get a fat back then when it was hyped everywhere), I'd probably order a custom frame with a gearbox and some standard hubs with asymetrical chainstays, so get rid of most fat specific parts, except of course for the tires and rims. It's even difficult to get fat mudguards here in France. It's too bad it didn't work better, it's a fun way of riding, slower but kind of unstoppable.
@Will-narayan: Here in eastern Canada is it really popular but sadly, Ontario and Quebec is not enough for big brands that want to sell worldwide...
Every winter it is the same, I never want it to end, I would like to ride 1 or 2 more months in the snow instead of riding my real bike lol We don't have a lot of snow so if I have to chose between riding a bike in snowy trails or riding my snowboard on ice, the choice is easy! lol
Was considering joining the Hydra crew but man looks like I'm getting these next, love my Pro 4's, even a dipsh*t like me can service them and they're still rolling fast after years of abuse!
Seriously, though! In a world where most manufacturers are trying to reduce their number of SKUs, I'm somewhat amazed that Hope are offering, by my math, 864 versions of just the rear hub. That's 3 (freehubs) X 2 (disc mounts) X 2 (spoke types) X 4 (spoke counts) X 3 (shell widths) X 6 (colors). This is why customers aren't allowed to complain when their LBS doesn't have every part on the shelf all the time.
@richard01: Update: I see now that they also offer a singlespeed freehub. I'm not sure whether that goes onto an existing hub shell/flange spacing, so I don't know how to update the math... but the answer is "even more SKUs than I thought".
Midnights so dreary, tired and weary, Silently pondering pinkweb extolling all by-now obsolete lore, During my rather long nap — the weirdest tap! An ominous vibrating sound disturbing my ratchets bearings. “This,” I whispered quietly, “I ignore.”
Apparently this paraphrased Edgar Alan Poe poem when changed to digits gives you the first 44 digits of pi. Which is basically the answer to anything circular. So Poe basically invented the mtb wheel.
I think that the new DT350 getting quite a bit more expensive has allowed Hope to make some improvements to their hubs and still remain in a very similar ball park. Those two options have always represented the entry into a nice quality hubset. Pretty curious to see how long the older 350 and Pro 4 stay available, as they now represent excellent value.
I know it is satisfying when you have the bike in the stand and you give the wheel a tug and it just keeps on spinning. But is there anyone who thinks hub drag actually makes a difference in the real world of mountain biking?
Those bearing stops on the rear axle look slim. My i9 hydra rear axle mushroomed and had to be warrantied. I sure hope that’s not a problem here. Looks like inner diameter of the smallest bearing is larger than i9 so maybe not.
Interesting that one improvement is reduced drag. If anyone needed to reduce drag it would be dt. Main reason I prefer hope over 350s. Downvote me now.
Be interesting to see how this stacks up to Bitex's existing 6-pawl staggered 3/3 A&B pawl set patent that has them covered until 2031 in the US and a few other countries incl. Germany...
@stephenthesquirrel: This would appear to ONLY cover hubs that use both an external retaining ring AND individual pawl springs which Hope's new design (and all the other alternating pawl spacing hubs) would not infringe.
Drag was always an issue when I tried Hope hubs but they are always bombproof. Good to see they’ve tried to improve it and increase the POE. Once you go Hydra it’s really hard to go back!
Honestly, I know i9 came out with the 6 pawl hub several years ago. I love the machine work that both companies produce. They’re both totally legit in my book. But I’ve always used Hope products because I’ve found them to be the best bang for the buck. The quality is top notch. The customer service second to none, and the serviceability for the home mechanic simply can’t be beat. Hope is a company that considers the end user in everything they do. It’s apparent that the company was founded by Rolls Royce jet engine engineers. Reliability is in their DNA. Hope FTW!
I hope they are stronger, I blew up two freehubs and toasted the drive ring in under a year and with no way to replace the drive ring the hub is scrap. I bought a wheel from the other British wheel company starting with H and have not had any problems yet, but it's only been 3 months
Interesting to see so many people have problems with their Hope hubs. I’ve been running Hope Pro 4’s exclusively on my single speed for the past 3 years, haven’t skipped a beat. Meanwhile I have snapped numerous chains and a few sets of pedal spindles, yeah I’m that guy unfortunately. Being that I weigh 250lbs I was slightly concerned a little, but I’ve run Hope’s before on my geared bikes without any problems, but SS is different….
I felt the same way. Just got my custom wheelset with pro4 that I had to wait forever for. I would have waited longer if I had know these were in the works
@clkwrk: I ordered my Pro4 wheelset in september last year. havent ridden my bike since then because of injury. But dont feel bad about it. if these pro5s would never have existed you would be perfectly happy with your pro4s.
@RecklessJack: I still will be however I almost went king again as I love my kings and they have lasted beyond what they can be upgraded to with zero issues in over a decade. I went with hope as I love their stuff and since I was going matchy matchy I went with their hubs also. Just bummed as I do know what the difference feels like with double POE
Most of those answers are within the video if you actually want to find out. Weight isn't, but in order for the others: - Leaf springs that also act as the pawl seats. - It screws in. - They appear to have just put an additional seal outside the green labyrinth seal they had before. - Hope end caps have been black for non-drive and silver for drive side since way back. They weren't/aren't interchangeable on some models so it's an easy way to know what goes where.
@zyoungson: yeah that is the hassle, had to find one for a dt swiss wheel recently, had to opt for 1mm too short and that seemed as it was the last one on internet. And yes, they’re a pain to build/true but I do love the look of them and the absence of that little snappy J bend.
It’d be nice if hope had thought it through and designed the straight pull hubs to use the same spoke length left & right sides.
@Kebabroll: using the same spoke length is only possible offering complete wheelsets as you need offset rims. Each rim manufacturer has theobromine opinion on how much offset is needed. Example Palindrom rims vs Duke. DT Swiss has zero offset on the rims of their mtb wheelsets.
@zyoungson: First off, you should get some extra spokes BEFORE you need them and second, every internet I've checked, I've found the straight pulls I need. Having said all that, unless a customer asks for them, I go J bend as well. Straight pull is sexy.
@barp: somehow that was thrown in the mix by the spellchecker it should read ‘has their own opinion’. I believe Roval Control SL’s are the only wheels with equal spoke lengths front and rear, left and right on the market?
@swoofty: Try saying that to someone who bought a complete bike & is trying to source straight pull spokes at some small town bike shop to save a biking holiday. Any shop will generally have a good selection of j bend spokes on hand and maybe a few straight pull if you are lucky. Manufactures seem to have been going away from them and back to j bend over the past few years and to me it can only be a good thing.
@Kebabroll: I have personally never snapped a j bend spoke on the bend and never seen or heard of one snapping there. They always go near the thread. As far as I'm aware it is a myth. The worst wheel I have ever had for snapping spokes was a 26" wheel with radial straight pulls on one side and reduced spoke count, probably to save 50 grams and attract punters in a show room. It would snap one spoke, then 2 or 3 near it soon after. They were almost impossible to source. I like riding bikes more than fixing them or tracking down hard to find parts that should be easy to get at a LBS.
@hpman83: I have a set of 155mm Hope and like them so far.
I'm coming down from Hope and RF 165mm cranks but the adjustment for me was like 15-20 minutes on the first ride as they didn't feel quite the same as a 165 but after that I didn't really think much about them.
I did step down from a 30t chain ring on the 165 to a 28t on the 155, will be playing around with running a 30t to see if the 28t is really worthwhile.
Not sure I'm ready to ditch my 165mm cranks for the 155mm just so my bikes match but the 155mm have been pretty good tbh.
On any slow speed tech (especially climbs) having the instant response of quick engagement can be the difference between clearing it and dabbing. No real benefit on the fast stuff.
So happy they went with 54T, I loved how DT Swiss engages, but was always paranoid about breaking one with me being well over 200 pounds. If these roll anywhere near as fast as DT240's with 54T, i'm sold.
That's nice, but it looks like they still have that stupid tapered end cap that makes some XD cassettes basically get stuck on there because there's no room for the cassette tool.
For EU when a product has more than a certain percentage of the value made in UK there is no tariff on it. So basically for Hope, maybe more paperwork but no impact on the retail price in the EU.
@chuoi152: "Hope Technology components (excluding the frame and bearings ) are warrantied for a period of 2 years from purchase" --you're damn right they didn't replace your 3-year-old part under warranty. It's a bummer that it broke, but that's the deal you agreed to.
What's wrong with CL hubs, and 28H? Running a bike shop, and being mechanically-minded, the CL solution is simpler, just as effective, and lighter. As for 28H, for XC wheels, that's perfect. Each to their own, but not sure what's not to like?
@cyclopathic-uk: you know what’s wrong with centrelock don’t act like you don’t. They work loose and there’s nothing you can do about it because they require a 12 inch BB tool retighten which nobody carry’s on a ride with them meanwhile there’s been no recorded incidents of 6 bolts failing in the wild… ever. Include straight pull spokes and that’s just a recipe for disaster and I just expect better from Hope than this. Just as well because nobody’s going to buy them over the fantastic j bend, 6 bolt pro5 which everyone in the UK will be buying where Hope sell most of their products.
@cyclopathic-uk: until recently I also thought CL was all everyone needs but then I saw some that were impossible to tighten, now I know what to look for it's not uncommon. Depends how you ride, if you hop about a bit or lock the brakes a lot you will soon develop play with a CL rotor. Road and XC, fair enough, anything more dynamic and I'd be inclined to swerve CL.
@KeithShred: it just goes against Hope’s company ethos. Well designed, well engineered, fit and forget. Which centrelock and straight pull spokes clearly don’t fit that bill.
@justanotherusername: it’s impossible to incorrectly fit a centrelock rotor, nice try though and besides hope can’t improve Shimano’s manufacturing processes, so enjoy paying nearly twice as much for centrelock rotor that’s never perfectly aligned out of the box before it makes a bunch of noise while braking over rough ground and ultimately unscrews itself and you have to thinking about how you could just have bought a perfectly straight magura storm HC for next to nothing and could still be riding.
@thenotoriousmic: Well as impossible as you say it is, it looks like you manage it, eh?
Have had absolutely zero issues wit the centrelock brakes I have used and judging by the other responses and downvotes other people seem fine with them too.
Oh, and you have a choice, would I choose 6 bolt, yes but would I care if my bike cam with centrelock, no.
@justanotherusername: we’ll that would require you getting off the internet and actually learning to ride a bike . If you can’t ride it then you’re unlikely to have issues but what happens when you ride it is your wheel usually the back will bounce forwards and backwards as your braking over rough ground as the brake is holding the rotor the wheel is springing backwards and this literally unscrews your rotor as your riding, if you locked you back brake and pushed your bike backwards this will do the same thing if you pushed hard enough. Terrible design plus the fact you’re forced to use overpriced never perfectly straight Shimano rotors. It’s really easy to make a straight 6 bolt rotor and they never come loose and if they ever did you’ve probably got the tools to sort it then and there. Nobody’s carrying a BB tool on a ride.
@browner: Sorry but they definitely don’t stay tight under normal use and especially not if you are doing any type of technical riding where they see forces in the opposite direction-
@Seldomseen83: absolute nonsense haha, you've got people mansplaining how brakes work and others claiming trials forces can unscrew lock rings. It's absolute bollocks and failure to read the manual. Do you even hear yourselves. How on earth do you think bikes like this leave the shop? It's mechanical mongoloidism
@browner: there is no question that trials riding can move a CL rotor on the hub, I've not personally seen a lock ring unscrew but the rotational play between the hub and rotor can be significant. Even when they are torqued up correctly. Overtime that play is sure to get worse.
@Seldomseen83: skip to 0:45. When your wheel is bouncing back and forth like that and as it’s going backwards it’s literally unscrewing your centrelock lock ring.
Would be good to see more companies making this kind of commitment to their products.
All I was Hoping to see is a hub with even more engagement from Hope
I'll stick with my 120 and wait for Pro 6
I know plenty of riders who have trimmed two of the pawls down in their Pro 4 hubs to simulate the trials hub and get extra engagement too with no issues.
For awkward, tech climbs (and even awkward/janky tech flatter/downhill trails) having the extra engagement speed is nice. I went from a really low engagement hub to a Halo Supadrive hub and it was a night and day difference in how my bike felt, and how it made some sections of trail easier to ride clean. I ended up replacing that hub with a Pro 4, and although every other part of the hub was an upgrade the step down in engagement points did suck to have to get used to again.
It's not the be-all and end-all but that extra engagement can be helpful when it's achieved in a sensible way.
If you bike park sloth , it's no difference to you if you run 44 or 120 engaigment points hub
And now all keyboard warriors, give me all down votes because I expressed my opinion
I'm going on a bike , laters haters
I'm already taken
The only way they could be improved is by making them totally silent, in my opinion.
As the for the POE, yeah I also prefer the lower number. Lower freehub drag implies that the chain tension at the top part of the chain stays higher (as the rear sprocket isn't pushing forwards that much) hence you get better chain retention. And that is much, much more important to me than the higher POE. High POE is helpful on slow speed tech stuff but I need to be honest and admit that if I don't make it up a climb, I shouldn't blame that on my equipment.
Very true my DT 350 Hybrid with only 24 POE shift better, more reliably (especially under load) than my Pro 4 w/54 POE on other bike. Both ebikes, notice the lower POE better with higher torque driven bike. High POE driven hubs is not all that. I do like idea of less drag with Pro 5 vs 4 that I feel has a fair amount. Super impressed with DT 350 Hybrid so far with zero maintenance/bearing replacement in almost 2 years of heavy use in PacNW, whereas Pro 4 requires more servicing and bearing replacement periodically.
When I see you up the trail, you always sitting on a side smoking weed ;D
We as consumers drive the economy, trying to blame marketing is a lazy, and easy out for yours, and all of our own desire for new, better, different.
A quick look at your 5 pages of buy and sell is a testament to that.
Higher engagement isn’t marketing driven, so people just prefer something different to you, that doesn’t make it better or worse, just different. Stop trying to justify your decision and preferences by putting others down.
I prefer a rear hub in the 70ish POE, but have ones with 36, and some ungodly high number. You wanna tell me I’m wrong, or that I’m just following what’s in fashion?
Clown shoes
If the drive ring is truly pressed into the hub on the Pro 5, it's no different from a Bontrager Rapid Drive hub with 108 POE. But the Ring drive on the Pro 5 looks to be threaded in from the visualizations. I'll have to check that.
You’re right. So was the Pro 4 pressed in? I never had to service mine so I don’t know.
They're still offering steel HG freehub bodies though. I've been running one on my Pro 4 and had some issues getting my cassette off that due to the usual thing of the cassette rings digging into the body - hate to think how much faff it would have been on an alloy version!
I was pedalling up a hill, it started to feel like I was wheelspinning, then I totally lost drive at the rear wheel.
I've felt it happen on older Hope hubs so knew what it was straight away.
I can't express how disappointed I am after noticing stuff HOPE didn't describe in their press release/video above or any seller will tell you in their description.
Got a set with steel freehub body, unfortunately it's not 108 engaigment points, only 54.
12 clicks more than standard Pro 4 hub! Wow, massive increase compared to Pro 4. Worth every penny to throw old Pro 4 and spend money on new Pro 5 !
They said on video above, e-bike version have 54 engaigment points but no one said that the steel version is the "only e-bike option" !
So you can't have 108 engaigment points with steel freehub!
Looks like those who uses e-bikes with sram XD drivers can't get steel version, as its only HG
So , everyone who used Pro 4 with alloy HG freehub and 11 or 12 speed cassette on it , know how sprockets dig in to freehub
Obviously solutions is steel freehub, and with Pro 4 was no issue, works perfectly and no difference in engaigment.
Unfortunately with Pro 5 they advertise it as 108 engaigment points but, no one said only on alloy version of the freehub.
Looks like all "gas to flat" riders who are fed up with alloy freehub issues, are half victims as they don't get full 108 engaigment on their steel freehub, only 54.
Lots of you is thinking, I'll get new whees build on new Pro 5 and I'll get nearly 3 times more engaigment for faster power transfer and respond.
You get steel freehub for durability and then you will notice what I just noticed. 54 bloody engaigment points just becouse someone made marketing trick and didn't specify all information needed to their customers and potential sellers/distributors !
I messageed to Hope but no comments so far!
Sad news , I was really HOPE-ing for a real deal with new stuff.
Apologies for being sarcastic and if I'm wrong get me steel HG freehub with 108 engaigment points I paid for !
P.S.
Pro 5's and Pro 4's for sale, check my profile.
Point is why company like Hope advertising their new product as 108 POE and alloy and steel freehub option, but in this same time not clarifying that the steel version will be only 54 POE.
Lots of customers will try to go steel freehub for durability and then realise they spend their not cheap money to swap Pro 4 for Pro 5 and not getting all that benefits described as a "New better" hub.
Many will want more POE , in this same time many will not notice the difference due to being just average riders.
But many will be pissed off!
I'm a bike mechanic as well rider and build wheels for many people , some friends/racers in between. Some of them do need to have more POE as they benefit from it on every step on pedals to be closer to win medals!
What I don't understand why company like HOPE wasn't honest and inform customers that steel freehub is only available in 54 POE and all alloy freehubs 108 !
HOPE I'm right here
No where was told steel freehub is for e-bike only, never was with Pro4's eider.
Put yourself in to theoretical situation, let sey DtSwiss relise new hub. Lets call it DT-400 and in description say 88 POE, you ordered one with happines and when she arrived you realize its only 44 POE. What was the point of spending money if no upgrade was made ?
I do check my stuff, I'm a bike mechanic as a job and I'm a rider too (not average). I'm not crying for myself as I don't run Hope hubs for few years now except my Dj/pump track bike. But my customers bitch about it as I just explained that to them.
Simply, Hope did't make it fair by not clarifying that info to public !
P.S.
If you never run Hope hubs and higher POE don't mean anything to you , don't get in to comments in this conversation please.
Peace
Sucks , as I was hoping to get set with steel freehub.
In that case its a little scam !
www.hopetech.com/_repository/file/1/Resize/images/e-bike.jpg
I quote: "All six pawls engage simultaneously reducing engagement but greatly increasing load capacity and durability".
It is also being explained in the video on that page from 3:20 onwards. They don't mention the steel freehub before they go into the subject of pedal assist. It is the two things they mention for that hub: reduced engagement and the steel freehub body.
Someone already said it, you don't get that
I guess you have no purpose or meaning in your life and all you do is bothering people on here.
I would employ you as customer advisor, but according to your profile you have no experience and you potentiall are annoying person...
Can't trust you as you said you leaving and minutes later you back.
It's Mental Health awareness week in UK, I will leave you to rest.
God love you too
Yes, Pinkbike is different things to different people. I view it as a magazine with a possibility to discuss the articles. Others use it as a marketplace, others as kind of a social media channel. All good. I'm not using all the options indeed. I actually had a few pictures up here but didn't agree with the new Outside policy so they kindly removed them upon request.
Either way, I got back here hoping prevent the issue @allbiker ran into. So yeah, once he gets back here he can point out where he found Hope documentation where the steel freehub option was mentioned without making clear that this comes with 54POE instead of 108. Until then, there is nothing to do for me here.
Your God can keep his love to himself.
Easy there guys,
OP was a bit bummed that Hope didn’t make it clear about the POE of the hub he wanted, so he’s publicly annoyed with that.
Let him be annoyed, no sense in trying to solve his annoyance with facts and your personal opinions that are irrelevant after the fact.
Hes bummed, and prolly out a couple hundred bucks, and still doesn’t have the hub he thinks he wants.
I think people also forget years of marketing a superior headset (their bearings are indeed great), but the thin washer design was inferior to the aheadset split compression washer. That seemed pretty obvious when they implemented that design the same year the aheadset patent expired.
Hope or White Industries would be at the top of my list on my next build.
As for the 135mm spacing, it is still quite common to see that for single speed trials or dirtjump bikes who do not require the extra 11/12 speed spacing the boost hubs were designed for.
It’s nice to have older stuff supported for 10 years or more.
10 years is pretty much forever in the world of MTB when everyone insists on upgrading every year or so for the next marketing wonder
I'm sure Hope frowned upon anyone doing this mod to their older hubs but now it's cool so long as Hope is the one making the $$ on it.
Easy? No it’s not.
✅
I got 350s in my wheels and they are cheap but do not roll very free compared to almost any other hub I owned in the past.
Very reliable hubs but my next build would be Hope or I9.
Reckon your hubs need a service bud. The 350 and 240s should be near drag free, especially if you put the right grease and super thin oil in.
Agree they don't look anything special, but I personally never look at the hubs much, they just help the wheels go round, without any issues
I do love the Hope brand, I just never get the hype on the hubs.
Color is all what matters to most people, you could put a piece of s**t in the hub but hey, it's blue!
One time had a end cap falling off to oblivion on a bike being air freighted, lost two or three days of riding at the destination while trying to source a cap locally
24 years of running *many* sets, never had one fall off. In my experience they come off easily yes, but when you pull them off, not randomly. Another reason why they're a piece of cake to work on. Each to their own though!
Ive got both and the novelty of i9 wears off very fast, just like the bearings
Get a grip bud.
That's common to any alloy Freehub bodies with time!
Sealing is much better on Hope hubs much better suited for British slop.
I didn’t notice much sealing at all on 350s
There’s no proprietary tools at all for a pro4 …you can get hub support tools but they aren’t necessary.
Unlike the 350s which actually do need a proprietary tool to do a bearing change.
As for cheaper, 350s RRP I think they’re £10 cheaper but you have 18 POE …so have to get an 54t ‘upgrade kit’ at £80 just to bring them up to a similar level to a pro4.
As long as it does the job you do once or twice a year doesn't have to be expensive
You can get 240S for a chunk less than Hopes, and you're then talking about ~180g difference, and they're every bit the hub for UK slop. As for the ratchets, these can be bought for about £35-50, and end up with more PoE than Hopes.
I'll reiterate again though, I love the hope brand, just from someone who has no bias as we supply them all, we find DT240S are the reference hubs.
If you stop trolling for a sec you'll probably realise and remember that the weight difference depends on the Hope model. The hub weight differences above are measured on our Park Tool scales, and I don't recall pulling anything out of my seating apparatus to take the measurement. Sure, some of the hubset types have less weight differences, some have more. Take a breath before you verbally vomit on the forums. Speaking of which, who said I was referencing RRP? The real measure is of what the public can buy them for, and simply put if you take 15 mins online you'll always find 240S for the same or less. Fact.
I've genuinely got no interest in who buys what. What I do have an interest in is in people knowing the facts about things. Hope do great things, we've built many wheelsets with them, they're bombproof. But so are DT Swiss, White Industries, P321, I9, King etc. From 22+ years of building and racing bikes, when asked the best all round hubs, we'd go for DT Swiss.
A Hope 148 boost 6 bolt XD Drive is 305g
You’re telling me a 240S in the same spec is 125g? I don’t think so.
But from my looking about online a 240S or 240 in the same setup is around the 230g mark… I’ll hand it 75g is decent. but would probably pay the 70g price for a decent sounding hub.
Talking about real world price not RRP? A 240S looks discontinued from what I can see I did see one reduced at £266… and a new 240 the cheapest I’ve found on a quick look is £233 that’s not including your £50 ratchet ‘upgrade’
A quick search of a pro4 first 3 websites are selling them for £120
Even the £180 rrp is cheaper than your discounted 240
As for sealing… a little black o-ring around the freehub body is hardly brilliant, every wheelset I’ve used which comes standard on bikes and has little seals like that the bearings are always shot a year or so down the line.
I’ve had multiple Hope hubs now and I’ve yet to do a bearing change… in fact I’m dying to do one just so I can see how hard/easy the process is.
It’s the same with their headsets every oem headset has rubbish sealing for British weather and a year down the line they’re rough and done for… replace with hopes and I’m waiting for the day they give up.
Here’s some weight comparisons …still not seen a single rear 240 hub below 200g or at a difference of 180g
And the end cap design for the front hub is just dumb. It’s loose until you put the axle through it. Sometimes it binds on perfectly good bearings and it’s difficult to remove and replace them without some kind of tool. It’s just a bad design. People love DT hubs but I have grown to hate mine. Looking forward to going back to Hope when these drop
You mean 36t? Because the 54t skips for many under heavy torque. I Can clear any section with 36 or 54 but it’s way nicer on the 108. Like using a dropper vs not. We all rode without them back in the day but it’s a def performance upgrade once you start using it. I have both and I prefer the higher engagement. DT cannot provide that.
You seem articulate, and as such I'm not sure why you can't read about 5+ times on here, I and our shop are Hope fans. On the 28h hubs we have here, there's 104g difference between the rear hubs, and 76g difference in the fronts, I don't need to spell the maths.
As for longevity, we've never had either a Hope or a DT240 back, and we and our customers ride them year round, so it would seem the DT sealing does the job nicely.
Live and let live. Because you love your Hopes, great, but don't troll others for expressing honest opinions, especially when they're based on more than an individual's personal experience.
All the best, happy trails on your Hope hubs, Hope headset, and all the other parts.
Peace out.
Okay, you don’t like high engagement and I do. Let’s go ride now.
What annoys me is your false statements about not about hope hubs being “overpriced”, “heavy” and DT Swiss not requiring proprietary tools
When in fact they do require proprietary tools… regardless of how cheap you can get the tool.
Overpriced? Tell me why they are overpriced? Like where are you getting that from? Even at RRP hopes are absolute value for money. But most of the time you can absolutely get them as cheap as £120 for the rears depending on your colour and setup preference.
10min search:
Hope front boost 15mm - £60
Hope rear boost XD - £150
240 front boost 15mm 6 bolt - £115
240 rear boost XD - £233 (not including your ratchet upgrade of £59)
Pro5 front - £95 rrp
Pro5 rear - £220 rrp
Still cheaper and not even released yet with double the engagement (if that matters to you)
For a locally produced product with the level of support, exploded parts diagrams. Every single bit, bolt, spring and washer has a part number and you can order them well past end of production.
With Interchangeable end caps to swap wheels between bikes.
Similar to Hope domestically produced CNC’d rear hubs with equal levels of support and colour options:
Chris King - £550~
I9 - £440~
Onyx - £420~
Profile - £394~
For Pro5s even at the new RRP of £220 they’re an absolute steal for what you’re getting.
Again tell me why these are overpriced?
Or are you the one trolling?
And as for weight like for like same spec for same spec the weights are marginal… and the hopes are still lighter than the likes of chris king and onyx.
But what you seem to be comparing is lightest option vs heaviest.. a centrelock, straight pull, XD vs a steel body HG.
So whilst I get you’re not opposed to Hope don’t just sit there and spout nonsense about them being overpriced when they’re far from it.
Take a chill pill bud. In fairness the prices are reasonable compared to the ones you put above.
As for the weights, dispute all you like, they were like-for-like same types, measured with 3-month old Park Tool scales, but hey, apparently you know better by some keyboard warrior work?
All the best to you bud, life's too short for this thread and responding to rants.
Hope are on the upper end of what I'd justify and I like them on my DH bike with a full face on not being able to hear them. Used to love obnoxious, loud hubs but these days for trail bikes etc I prefer a silent bike.
Just the sound of tyres on dirt and the occasional HONK of panic braking.
www.tairinwheels.ca/product-page/tairin-s1-rear-boost-hub
P321 is non existent here in the UK, no one is selling them. Haven’t even seen them offer boost hubs either.
DT Swiss are every bit as durable, easier and simpler to service, and lighter and more expensive. Apart from the local manufacturing, and colour selection, whilst I love the Hope brand, there's better value, lighter hubs out there.
Ever heard of sprung and unsprung weight? It makes a difference. I'm no weight weenie, but extra weight, *and extra cost*, for no mechanical gain seems pointless to me.
Plus, DT240S are about 150-180g less per set, so not sure where you get 60g from.
If you want to pay a chunk more money, to buy a subset a chunk heavier, be my guest.
I find weight savings where they don't cost a fortune, and don't compromise function and durability. That hunslet difference alone is 1/3 lb, and the savings on a wheelset do matter, arguably it's where you *do* feel the savings, not least in times.
I do yes, the tattoo says "Ignore the hype, buy with your brain". If you need me to explain, let me know, as I suspect you might not get it first time. Hope you've had a rest anyway, as that imaginative and valuable post must have taken it out of you!
If you want to be a Hope fanboy, go ahead, as I've said about 15 times in this thread, they're a great brand, and mostly locally produced. But, for their hubs, *being objective without fanboy emotion* (try it sometime), they're heavier, more expensive, and more complicated to service. My customers buy both, but the common reasons for buying the hopes being the colour options, and the notion they're British made.
yeah these are going on my bikes next.
Now I have a wheelset with xtr hubs, I know it´s a mess inside, but damn that silencer is something, I can hear only the suspension and tires hugging the ground.
The sound is good, I am just maybe too old for it
I've been curious about those silent hubs cus yeah totally with you on tread and suspension sounds being the best thing ever. But I feel like if my hub was totally silent, I would have to always make sure my bike was dialed 100% of the time since every squeak and rattle would be a reminder of my lazy maintenance habits.
Idk these PRO5's sound like the sweet spot, as a current pro4 owner who was looking at Hydras for a little more engagement and a little more buzz, these new 5's check those boxes for me. I'd keep my trusty Pro4's on my "bike park" wheelset, and maybe build up a new trail wheelset on these Pro5's, but who knows, I'm still totally 100% stoked on my Pro4's.
I gotta say, if I were to get a new fatbike (I only recently got mine, a Farley 5 with a discount, as I had no money to get a fat back then when it was hyped everywhere), I'd probably order a custom frame with a gearbox and some standard hubs with asymetrical chainstays, so get rid of most fat specific parts, except of course for the tires and rims.
It's even difficult to get fat mudguards here in France.
It's too bad it didn't work better, it's a fun way of riding, slower but kind of unstoppable.
Every winter it is the same, I never want it to end, I would like to ride 1 or 2 more months in the snow instead of riding my real bike lol We don't have a lot of snow so if I have to chose between riding a bike in snowy trails or riding my snowboard on ice, the choice is easy! lol
I wonder if they automate the bom generation.
Near a Hope(R)
Midnights so dreary, tired and weary,
Silently pondering pinkweb extolling all by-now obsolete lore,
During my rather long nap — the weirdest tap!
An ominous vibrating sound disturbing my ratchets bearings.
“This,” I whispered quietly, “I ignore.”
Apparently this paraphrased Edgar Alan Poe poem when changed to digits gives you the first 44 digits of pi. Which is basically the answer to anything circular. So Poe basically invented the mtb wheel.
patents.google.com/patent/USD766800S1/en
patents.google.com/patent/US8443951B1/en?inventor=Te-Yao+HSIEH
Hope you heal up ok!
Was there a Pro3 by the way ?
why are the hub caps black on one side and silver on the other?
- Leaf springs that also act as the pawl seats.
- It screws in.
- They appear to have just put an additional seal outside the green labyrinth seal they had before.
- Hope end caps have been black for non-drive and silver for drive side since way back. They weren't/aren't interchangeable on some models so it's an easy way to know what goes where.
Good stuff as always from Barnoldswick!
Straight pull too, sexy!
It’d be nice if hope had thought it through and designed the straight pull hubs to use the same spoke length left & right sides.
I believe Roval Control SL’s are the only wheels with equal spoke lengths front and rear, left and right on the market?
@Kebabroll: I have personally never snapped a j bend spoke on the bend and never seen or heard of one snapping there. They always go near the thread. As far as I'm aware it is a myth. The worst wheel I have ever had for snapping spokes was a 26" wheel with radial straight pulls on one side and reduced spoke count, probably to save 50 grams and attract punters in a show room. It would snap one spoke, then 2 or 3 near it soon after. They were almost impossible to source. I like riding bikes more than fixing them or tracking down hard to find parts that should be easy to get at a LBS.
I'm coming down from Hope and RF 165mm cranks but the adjustment for me was like 15-20 minutes on the first ride as they didn't feel quite the same as a 165 but after that I didn't really think much about them.
I did step down from a 30t chain ring on the 165 to a 28t on the 155, will be playing around with running a 30t to see if the 28t is really worthwhile.
Not sure I'm ready to ditch my 165mm cranks for the 155mm just so my bikes match but the 155mm have been pretty good tbh.
Thanks
Surely it just induces more pedal kick back on suspension frames
Running a bike shop, and being mechanically-minded, the CL solution is simpler, just as effective, and lighter.
As for 28H, for XC wheels, that's perfect.
Each to their own, but not sure what's not to like?
Have had absolutely zero issues wit the centrelock brakes I have used and judging by the other responses and downvotes other people seem fine with them too.
Oh, and you have a choice, would I choose 6 bolt, yes but would I care if my bike cam with centrelock, no.
youtu.be/MjDJun7bLjo