Unno aren't afraid to stand out from the crowd. In fact, that's something they pride themselves in.
The all-new Burn is their latest creation. And while the original Unno Burn has been around for a long time, the new version has been in development for four years and is a very different beast.
"I wanted this long travel machine to have a hard-hitting attitude," says Cesar Rojo, Unno's founder and engineer, "able to shred some local trails and to always ask myself "Where is my full face helmet?"."
The DetailsThe Burn rolls on mullet wheels only. As an enduro bike, it sports 160 mm at the rear with a 170 mm fork. The suspension design uses a pair of short links which rotate in the same direction as the suspension cycles, just like Unno's other bikes. In this case, the lower link is mounted concentric to the bottom bracket. Details are scant on the suspension kinematics, but the recommended sag is 35%, suggesting a progressive design.
At the rear of the upper rocker link is an asymmetric bolt washer which looked to me like a flip chip. I asked Cesar about this and it turns out I was wrong. "Actually, is not a flipchip but to avoid axles getting loose", he tells me. "No need to put second bolts, or lots of Loctite. Actually, on the test bikes we just put grease in the threads and bolts do not get loose."
The eagle-eyed amon you may have also spotted the seat mast, which appears to have been taken from a 17th-century sailing ship. About this, Cesar commented: "So yep, it also features some "why-the-hell-this-seat-tube" aesthetics."
The GeometryThere are three sizes offered, designed to fit everyone from 160 cm to 200 cm (5′ 3″ to 6′ 7″). The chainstay length is long-ish at 445 mm and the head angle sits at a moderate 64-degrees across the board. One number which does stand out to me is the head tube length (145 mm) and stack height (670 mm) in the S3 size. That's taller than most Xl or XXL frames, which should provide rangy riders with a comfortable position without a high-rise bar or a tower of spacers, and in turn, will make the reach feel a little longer than the 510 mm number would suggest.
The SpecsFox Factory suspension and Crank Brothers wheels are to be expected on an Unno. Unno's own Deux one-piece carbon cockpit saves a few grams and looks trick. It's 800 mm wide with the equivalent of a 40 mm stem. SRAM GX AXS gearing may not be the fanciest but it does the job well. Cesar couldn't tell me the weight of the frame right now, but he says the weight of the complete bike is about 14.7 Kg (32.4 lb).
Maybe my perception of bike prices has been warped, but if I were to guess the price of this boutique machine I would have said a little more than 7,795€. You can pay more than that for something a lot less head-turning.
For more information check out
unno.com.
We combined that with short reaches/long seat tubes and short droppers and made it somewhat expensive.
What´s missing to create the worst servicable bike of all times?
Tell us in the comments
enduro-mtb.com/exklusiver-test-unno-burn-race-2022-enduro-bike
enduro-mtb.com/exklusiver-test-unno-burn-race-2022-enduro-bike
s14761.pcdn.co/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/UNNO_Burn_First_Ride_Office_END_052_WEB_Res-0276-1140x760.jpg
I think we should also probably realise that sadly none of those negatives will really matter to the target buyers of this bike.
I wouldn’t buy another bike with headset routing.
Total PITA. Cables rub on steerer, nightmare to swap out rear brake, nightmare to swap out headset bearings. Forget it.
Props to Transition for still doing external rear brake!
Owner of a Focus Sam 2 here.
Had the bike 6 months, headset felt rough. Had a quick look to realise (my assessment) water had made its way down the cables and on to the headset. Rusty water inside. Headset cheap, not sealed and plastic cup (now hate Acros forever). Purchased new headset, stem , frame cable gromits and spacers. Luckily all cable lengths worked out.
Interestingly (or so I found out) manufacturers are using a zs56 at the top as well as the bottom, this allows the cable to pass inside. Not many manufacturers do them. Acros, cane creek and superstar. So availability was an issue for me.
I think the only cable that should be internal is seat post otherwise external for me.
Down votes for buying an ebike accepted
This link is on topic though. Read it in Google translate and you'll get the julist . Enjoy!
www.velozine.nl/specials/evilzone-kabels-door-je-balhoofd-wat-een-achterlijk-idee
s14761.pcdn.co/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/NS-Bikes-Define-Carbon-MTB-News-3-von-22-810x540.jpg
Ha, yea you’re right. Good job thats the only transition bike I wouldn’t happily own!
Best is external routing along the top of the downtube. If you MUST have hidden cables, I also like GGs removable panel approach.
Agreed absoluely the worst design, i dont care what engineering BS is behind it, putting your brake cables in a tight space, in the middle of a steering mechanism is doomed to be a nightmare. If someone want me to do anything on this it would be a minimum $100 surcharge just for the pain in the ass it is going to be..
ps, shock looks like its going to have a hard time with that kinda leverage.
To quote the great Father John Misty:
And the malaprops make me wanna f*cking scream
I wonder if she even knows what that word means
Well it’s literally not that
www.pinkbike.com/u/DoubleCrownAddict/blog/headset-cable-routing-needs-to-stop.html
For the shop, you’re now stuck doing extra work to change a headset bearing/spacer, when you could perhaps have more usefully or profitably spent that time elsewhere in store, or on another customer’s bike. In a given time frame, it’s generally better (from a variety of perspectives) for a shop to get through multiple repairs vs sinking extra time into a single one. It’s particularly galling to think that the extra time requirement has come about because a brand manager somewhere couldn’t bear to see a few inches of exposed hose on an MTB.
Mechanics generally dislike it, and I think most customers buying into it will soon learn to one way or another…
1. NEVER buy a headset cable-routed bike. Don't encourage them.
2. Full external routing is always better than internal routing
3. If you really love the clean look of internal routing, you better also be riding a Yeti with AXS shifting/dropper (reduces the number of cables), ENVE rims, and have your own personal bike mechanic on-call.
If you work on your own bike, internal anything is a PITA.
internal guided vs opening and try to find a way yourself f.ex.
These new headset routed bikes often or always combine that shitty new headset with the "opening and try to find a way yourself" internal routing, so its a step back to like 2015.
Neither go through the headset though.
p.vitalmtb.com/photos/products/22777/photos/34503/s1600_Ellsworth_Truth_Convert_Red.jpg?1524757523
www.triathlete.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/5P5A4037.jpg
Nothing like the feeling of you're frame getting longer and slacker as you round out a corner on a trail.
2=ugly AF
3=headset madness
4=price tag
5=exterior rear brake lines only for me
What is the obsession with the direction the links rotate? It means nothing. So many times it has been pointed out (in articles/reviews, not just comments) that the gross details, especially on any virtual pivot design (Horst-like, VPP, DW, etc) of a suspension design mean almost nothing. It's the fine details, the exact pivot locations, the exact linkage lengths, etc, that make the differences. Co-rotating or counter-rotating links tells literally nothing important.
Reality: Bruh just load a Canyon DH frame and Mondraker enduro frame into your CAD, make the seat tube a bit longer, twist it hear and there and et voila no one will notice.
Transition Are super close but need to adapt to modern progressiveness... they make bikes for the avg joe but the bike wants to ride double black tech all the time
Did you ask him why all the pivot bolts don't have it? The other end of that same link, the other link, the upper shock mount... Those don't have the oval washer, do they have the loctite or second bolts he is implying are needed?
*Basing this on my own 178cm height with a 450mm seattube and a 180mm OneUp post with approx 15mm of outer-post showing, and that 15mm plus more will be taken up by almost every other post out there.
I certainly would not feel comfortably at peace in my mind when sat atop a fully extended seatpost!
What? The seat tube is supposed to be like that ?
Hahahahahahaha
Dentist “ yea what-evs mate, just fix it”
Me : Could they not have ran the front hose in the steerer to be truly integrated smh
A minority I know
Because my frame looks like it will snap in two.
muppet.fandom.com/wiki/Beaker