First Look: WTB's HTZ E-Bike Wheels Are Designed For Toughness, Not Lightness

Oct 4, 2022
by Seb Stott  
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While weight is a major selling point for e-bikes, people who ride them regularly are often more concerned about longevity. Components designed for regular bikes generally have a much shorter lifespan on an eMTB.

Enter WTB's first e-bike specific wheelset. A 29" wheelset weighs around 2,691 g, according to WTB, which is at least half a kilo heavier than a typical alloy DH wheelset. The payoff, WTB say, is toughness and longevity to cope with many seasons of the most demanding e-bike action, plus heat sink hubs to improve braking on long descents.


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The i30's cross-section is on the right, next to a WTB KOM rim. Photo credit: Mountain Bike Connection Summer - Rupert Fowler.

Starting with the i30 rim, which has existed before as a rim-only but not as a wheelset. It has up to 20% thicker walls than WTB's enduro-duty KOM Tough rims. It also has a highly asymmetric design, allowing the same length of spoke to be used on both sides of the wheel for easier replacement, with similar spoke tensions too for a stronger and stiffer wheel. The rims are claimed to weigh 718 g in 29" and 678 g in 27.5". They come set up with tubeless tape, plus a solid rim strip to stop spokes poking through the tape if the wheel does (somehow) get bent out of shape.

The Pillar spokes are 13-gauge single-butted, going from a chunky 2.3 mm diameter at the hub to 2 mm at the DT Swiss nipple. There are 32 spokes per wheel.

The freehub contains six sets of pawls which all engage simultaneously to minimise the stress on each one to better cope with the mighty torque modern e-bikes can produce. The tradeoff is a slower engagement; the freehub has a middle-of-the-road 42 points of contact for an 8.5° engagement angle.

The hub axle sleeves are 17 mm in diameter (not 15mm), which increases the stiffness of the hub and so reduces stress on the bearings. The freehub spins on three bearings for XD and HG varieties, while the Microspline ones house four bearings (as many as will fit) in order to reduce play and wear while spinning under the tension from the chain. All driver bodies are steel, not alloy.

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Photo credit: Mountain Bike Connection Summer - Rupert Fowler.

Finally, the hubs have extra material around the 6-bolt rotor mount. WTB claim these heat sinks improve heat dissipation by up to 10%, helping to reduce peak brake temperatures and brake fade.

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Pricing:

Front wheel: $329.95 / €299.95
Rear wheel: $439.95 / €399.95
Wheelset: $769.90 / €699.90

For more, visit www.wtb.com

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Author Info:
seb-stott avatar

Member since Dec 29, 2014
297 articles

125 Comments
  • 57 2
 as in any comment section on pinkbike on a wheel related article, htz gonna hate.
  • 16 9
 1 cnyn thnk f sm bk cmpnys ths wd wrk 4.
  • 3 1
 Rampage Wheels rolls to the top step must watch
  • 45 0
 Bring back the SunRingle Doubletrack!

* I know this shows my age and not everyone is aware of these 26'' 900G anchors we once rode with..
  • 30 1
 YES!!! In 24" because it was "better" with 3" Gazzolodi tires! My Banshee Scream weighed 62lbs, Monster T, probably 12lbs of wheels and tires. What a beast in Whistler! People think bikes are heavy now they have no idea! haha
  • 15 0
 SunRingle DoubleWide! Similar weight, but weaker: Best of both worlds.
  • 5 0
 The double track were heavy but could take an absolute beating. I had 721,321, singlewide, singletrack, doublewide before the double track and none of them held up like them.
  • 3 0
 @kcy4130: I had white DoubleWides on my RM7 waaaaay back in the day. They looked unique but I found em to be soft as butter... phew I demolished those in a handful of rides!
  • 5 0
 I'm using a a Rhyno Lite on my packing bike with a 36h pattern and 2.0mm Wheelsmith spokes. I've had that bike at 75lb before water bottles were filled and that rim has been all over trails and never needed trued. That wheel is a tank though.
  • 2 0
 Arrow racing rims made the double tracks look weak in comparison. Those were the only rims I couldn't break.
  • 1 0
 @voleman: Ha! Classic! I also had a 61lb Scream with a Monster T. 26"F / 24"R Double Tracks. This was accompanied by my single speed Banshee Morphine with a Manitou Sherman dual crown with 26" "Josh Bender spec" Arrow DHX rims F/R. The good ol days
  • 1 2
 Anything made by Sun Ringle was like warm butter. Not sure how anyone kept them going for so long. I was a Mavic guy, because the strength to weight ratio of their 7000 aluminum rims were way better than anything Sun Ringle made.
  • 2 0
 @WayneParsons: you clearly didnt run a double track. 321 dented when you looked at them and the side of the 721 would crumple with no effort. Mavic xy were great though. 24 only.
  • 1 0
 @taskmgr: the XY was a BMX rim, which is why 24” was the biggest size. But yes, they were stout.
  • 1 0
 @dpars63: yup they were great! used to run one in the back w an arrow racing tire of my kona roast l
  • 1 0
 @voleman: In a DH race in Austria around 2000 there was a small Rivercrossing you had to jump and almost everyone cased -no rims were harmed- except all 24 Doublewides which just exploded (mine too). Good old times.
  • 38 14
 Freeride-north shore-era middle aged rider, mechanic and occasional wheel builder. I'm 250lbs and have had zero problems with any of the wheels I've run on any of the bikes I've demoed or owned. I've smashed them and hucked them down and off stuff just like the old days, even a few urban hucks to flat on here and there in town, and I've been smashing the factory wheels on my latest Range VLT down the rocks all season.

This whole "ebike" specific "durability over lighter weight" concept doesn't make sense to me at all. Wheels today are just so well built and the bits are strong enough that what bike you're on doesn't matter. Special wheels for an extra 10-20lbs is a marketing gimmick, as are the silly heat sink fins? I'm not saying wheels are indestructible at all, but not more or less on a different bikes.

The only components I see wearing faster and more consistently are cassette and chains. That's been the normal buy it when you see it parts for the people I ride with.
  • 48 5
 It's great that you haven't had any issues but the majority of hard riders I know, including myself, do not get a full season from any rim. Carbon, alloy, Nobl38, DT EX511 or 560.

The fact you have "never" had an issue may suggest your riding style is either not as aggressive, or you have a great amount of finesse. I charge hard with not much care for smashing over rock gardens.

Before the "ride smoother" comments come, F&^% that, I don't wanna. I'm happy repalcing a rear rim every season but may take a stouter one if I can.
  • 11 3
 @maestroman21: Don't even have to "never", I have not had a full rim failure in years, and I'm not a medium person and I have my monster truck days as well. Maybe I'm just lucky? I ride with a group of about 20 guys on ebikes now of almost every brand, we figured about 30,000km a season between us all, and in 3 years I've replaced and rebuilt rims for 2 other people and those were earned to be sure. (one was also a hospital trip).

Anecdotal I know, but it's what I have. Maybe we're just lucky? Or my hardtail days and trials made me "smoother"? Wink
  • 2 0
 You are 100% Correct!
  • 1 0
 Never had an issue either since 2006.
  • 13 1
 @voleman: Either the terrain is not that gnarly (to rims) or the riding isn't. It's not drops and hucks that kills rim its sharp square edge rocks. Here in the rockies we've got plenty of 'em and even with Cush Core or Rimpact and DH or DD casing tires it's pretty easy to start denting rims even if trying to be smooth if you are turning the wick up.

I think flat pedals mean you are harder on rims as well. Just can't unweight the same. Sure you can unweight for a few rocks but not over and over like clips.

Anyway I think this is a pretty cool product but I'm pretty happy with the combo of DH casing rubber and Cush Core wich is probably mandatory for a hard charging rider in some locals that doesn't want flats regardless of how beef the rim is and I'm not sure I'd want to add another 800g of rolling weight.
  • 5 0
 Share your secrets please. I get a season if I'm lucky.
  • 2 0
 @voleman Is it possible you are ride wheels at a different price point? Your comment seems absolutely bogus to me! But maybe apples are being compared to oranges here!?
  • 21 15
 Man this reply thread is something else. Gate keeping someone else’s riding/trails as being “not gnarly” because they don’t break enough equipment? f*ck off… How about flipping it around and saying if you break that much equipment you’re just a shitty rider??
  • 8 1
 @ScandiumRider: you're absolutely right I am a shitty rider but that doesn't mean my wheels deserve to break lmao
  • 1 0
 @voleman: the wheel-hungry ghouls of Quebec are calling
  • 6 0
 @ScandiumRider: Maybe I'm giving benefit of the doubt, but I don't think that what he meant. I learned to ride in Vermont, which between Sugarbush and Bolton has some insanely gnarly riding, but IMO the "gnarly-ness" comes from the steepness, and complete lack of traction in those perma-wet trails. Plus the rocks in New England tend to be more rounded and less sharp. I did break wheels there, but they lasted at least a season typically. If I was riding Killington more, I'd break even less bc I was mostly lapping smooth jump trails.

Now I mostly ride Angel Fire in New Mexico with occasional trips to Purgatory/Paja/CB/desert riding and I break wheels like its my day job. The riding isn't "gnarlier" per-se, it just faster with sharper rocks. FWIW its also typically flatter and infrequently wet, so which is gnarlier probably has more to do with your own personal riding strengths and weaknesses.
  • 5 0
 @ScandiumRider: no one was really gatekeeping. No one said "sharp rocks are REaL RiDInG". People just said "we have different terrain (sharp rocks), and the PNW isn't known for that so maybe that's why". Everyone knows the PNW has some gnarly riding. But it tends to be steeps, woodwork and wet roots and not knife shaped wheel killers.

The guy who brought up skill/riding literally said "or you have more finesse" suggesting that maybe he wasn't breaking things because he's a much better rider. Don't think there was any hate going around.
  • 2 0
 Oops, didn't mean to pile on/team up on you @ScandiumRider, I should have refreshed the comments before posting my own
  • 2 0
 I do a rear wheel every season or two. It's usually a result of bashing a rock and destroying a rim. I don't think a burlier rim would have saved me as I collapsed the side wall all the down past the spoke bed. Maybe would have been less damage, but I'm pretty sure I would have been on the hoof either way. I replaced two rims before I nuked the hub and just bought a whole new wheel.

By contrast when I was younger and dumber I used to do a wheel or three every season, but it was the 90's and parts were just rebranded road stuff. Plus, a good sized ding on the side wall was enough to scrap a rim since it was also your brake track.

I lived close to the Nashbar headquarters back then and we would make monthly trips to grab wheels since they were 75% off at the store.
  • 1 0
 I bet your wheelsets cost more than $769.90 / €699.90. Durability at lower price is heavy. I think the marketing material is stupid, but that's marketing in general.

I am 240lbs. My budget does not support high price wheels I have destroyed several wheels at the low to mid range level. I now have a set of budget friendly "e-bike" wheels - the really do seem indestructible in comparison to "regular" wheels at low to mid-range price point.
  • 2 1
 I question the author's claim that "Components designed for regular bikes generally have a much shorter lifespan on an eMTB." I haven't found that. I have found the rate at which my parts wear is the same on the eeb: it just sees way more use. Five laps instead of two, and simply more days riding. At first I thought I was roasting through brake pads and rear tires, but when I did the math it wasn't at a faster rate than on the pedal bike. Every day's a shuttle day on the eeb. Suspension's seeing double the action, I'm braking (too much) twice as often. The mileage is real. Any real numbers to back up the "ebikes are universally harder on parts" claim? I do clean and maintain my stuff pretty well after every ride, maybe that's it?

I also agree with @voleman here: wheels and bikes in general are insanely good in 2022. I did put a carbon rim on the rear of my eeb, DD casings with no inserts. I ride mostly on dirt, but my lines/skills are suspect, so I dunno. I can still lock my brakes up at the bottom of the longest run I know...today's light duty stuff is light years more durable than back when I started riding mountain bikes...it hasn't been that long, only really maybe 15 years?

full disclosure: I feel pedal bikes are solved for all but a very small group of riders. I'll get by.
  • 2 0
 @owl-X: What rear hubs are you ebikers riding that are so durable?
  • 1 0
 @derekr: rear hub is a Profile...I replaced a driver at about 2000 miles. Original front hub was chunky as hell last month and saw some new bearings (stock aluminum rim--I have never ruined a front wheel). I wash my drivetrain with dish soap and water after most rides.

this eeb has more miles on it than my last three pedal bikes combined. I cracked my first reserve carbon rim out back, rode the stock aluminum wobble ring for a week until its replacement arrived. I've rebuilt the shock twice and serviced fork twice. Many brake pads and tires. Broke a brake lever (and I think a rib) at the start of this summer.

3000 miles is a whole lot of trail dude I couldn't be happier with this bike!
  • 1 0
 @derekr: and when Shimano 12 speed was finally out I ditched the GX for some SLX/Deore/XT combos...I'm gonna put on a new chain and rear D this week, actually. Again, if this were a pedal bike with 3000 miles on it this would not surprise me either. Wear parts don't seem to be dying any sooner, trail-time-wise...

And really, I couldn't give a shit about a couple chains / derailleurs over the life of this bike, as I've only suffered TWO FLAT TIRES! I'll take that any time.
  • 2 2
 I never understood how people can avoid breaking rims. 155lbs, and was writing off 3/4 alloy rims a year. Now running tire inserts, higher psi, and carbon rims. Haven't broken anything since making the switch.

But seriously, I'm 155lbs wet living in Ontario and I still break rims, and often lace up new wheels for customers. I literally cannot fathom how someone 10lbs up on me, living in BC with an ebike, doesn't damage rims as often as I do. Most people would say I ride fairly smoothly, just went shit goes wild shit goes wild. You can clean a gap 100 times, you case it once and that's that.

People like us exist, hence why these wheels exist. If you're pushing yourself, you're damaging parts.
  • 1 0
 @owl-X: wobble ring, I'm using that from now on the describe most of my rear wheels.
  • 1 0
 @voleman: What kind of tires and tire pressures do you run? A large part of the reason that heavier rims are becoming a thing again is that lots of people (including me) are running lower and lower pressures. If you're not bottoming out the tire you (usually) won't damage the rim.
  • 1 1
 Especially on the front wheel I've been running tubeless with Tanus new EXO+ for 2400kms at 17PSI no issues except a worn out DHF 2.6.
  • 14 4
 I guess having 20lbs more bike coming down than other riders create a need for 600g more wheel.
Oh Ebikers….. you can save that 600g with a little more riding at least. ‍♂️
  • 1 0
 Burn..
  • 13 1
 But ebikes don't go any faster on the downhills, or so everyone keeps saying.
  • 5 2
 They don’t. But they have an extra 30lb to carry and get more laps in for a given time and the wheels are exposed to more torque.
  • 6 1
 @DrPete: I have an "extra" 30 pounds to carry relative to everyone else I ride with, I'm not exploding wheels left and right.

More torque through the wheels means more torque through the ground, which just demolishes any argument that ebikes don't hurt trails. A plain unboosted human can already break traction and move dirt, so an e-bike that requires an extra strength wheel is definitely moving even more dirt.
  • 2 1
 I'm most definitely slower on the downhills on the ebike. But that bike takes a beating. Given the option of bunnyhopping a 55 bike over some chunder or just smashing through it, smash wins every time.
  • 2 0
 I've often wondered if its not so much the added system weight, since that's similar to a lighter rider vs a heavier rider. But since the added weight of motor and battery is all in the frame, it created a very different balance between sprung and unsprung weight. Maybe that's why wheels need to be beefed up?
  • 2 0
 @justinfoil: if anything it demolishes the argument that ebike specific components need to be beefed up THIS much, but an expert class rider is going to put more power to the wheels than Joe Schmoe soft pedaling up a climb with 250w of motor support.
  • 4 0
 @DrPete: So then 240lb riders shouldn't even make it down a gravel path without blowing up wheels.

That's not how the extra weight works, because otherwise heavy riders would be screwed.
  • 2 2
 @DrPete: braking torque is significantly higher in value than driving torque from an ebike drivetrain, and all bikes have that, especially with 200mm/220mm rotors, and wheels hold up fine. Also, bikes/components are rated for riders of up to 300 lbs in some cases. So a 250 lb rider on an analog enduro bike will stress most every single component except the drivetrain more than a 170lb rider on an ebike.
  • 13 1
 Should be called tacotime. WTB rims are as soft as tortillas
  • 21 0
 Waiting To Break
  • 3 0
 Got a new WTB rim built up, huge dents after 2 rides. Never again
  • 3 9
flag rileyhrlevich (Oct 4, 2022 at 10:49) (Below Threshold)
 @willis1021: sounds like a you problem...picking bad lines
  • 1 1
 Will Taco and Break

Although the rims shown look like an improvement on the current Papier Mache construction they use now; I have no doubt the bead wall will fold like a stripper picking up cash on the first ride.
  • 1 0
 Unless there's an obvious geometric difference (ex. one model has a thin bead lip), it's usually the alloy. 6061 and 6069 are common rim alloys, and the latter is a lot stronger. WTB produces a lot of 6061 OE rims.
  • 7 1
 Maybe it's just because I've never been on (aka, afforded) an high end light bike, but I'm getting confused by all the "eMTB" specific stuff. Like adding 15 lbs or whatever to my bike on a whole system of bike/rider that already weighs like 230-240 lbs? That's like 6-7% extra weight going form a 34 lb bike to a 45-50 lb bike? I'm above average in the height/weight department, but am by no means the biggest rider out there by any stretch. And I've never had a problem with the basic entry level premium trail/enduro type products I use. Just seems weird to add so much to a wheel when the extra system weight of an e-bike isn't too much more than a typical rider/bike. Is it the torque from the motor? But that shouldn't matter when descending, nor matter when casing a jump into a rock any more than gaining 15lbs of weight around the belly. Maybe I'm wrong, I don't know.
  • 15 0
 Yea, it's funny the industry is accommodating to all these 150lb riders who think they need EVERYTHING beefed up because they are choosing to ride a 50lb bike instead of one that is 35lbs. Better add 2.6 tires with ultra-double DH casings too for those extra 15lbs.

Then here I am 282lbs geared up riding a 41lb "real" mountain bike (XXL Nicolai G1), surrounded by a pile of components which I have broken over the years. So if a normal rider on a +15lb E-bike requires all these beefier components what do I need at +120lbs over them? By E-bike market logic I should be riding a motorcycle with the motor removed and drivetrain fitted?

Jokes aside, as a big guy this wave of E-bike specific components is a blessing, now my components might last a season instead of a couple months. Nice.
  • 5 0
 @tunnelvision: I'm with you there, I don't see the ebike specific stuff as being all that helpful for ebikes specifically. I just don't see the necessity.

However, beefier parts for we who break stuff all the time, I'm completely here for that!
  • 4 0
 @tunnelvision: Yeah, I totally get the beefier/heavier duty parts for bigger riders and/or those who ride real hard. But I just think the whole once you put a few pounds of battery and motor on it then everything needs a whole new product line. Like people have been putting beefier forks on trail bikes for a long time. Or using DH wheels in non-DH settings. Bigger rotors, etc. All that makes sense and made sense before ebikes have gotten a lot of market share. I would think the weight of the whole system including the rider is what matters. I haven't had a problem with my alloy trail wheel set, and it's the same wheels a 110 lb rider may use on a size small bike even though my whole system is 100 lbs heavier. Should that 100lb rider now put ebike specific wheel when they go from a Slash to a Rail for example? Just doesn't make sense to me.
  • 2 0
 I personally think it's a combination of marketing, just selling more stuff while probably taking an opportunity to lower warranty burden, which is always a profitability drain, AND a legitimate need to beef up parts that are going to see, on average, a lot higher speeds. Take your average weekend dad and think of how fast he's really going on his normal bike - the eBike enabled normal dad is going to be riding a lot further, a lot faster, thus increasing the duty cycle on just about everything that he was previously riding. Increased speed is probably also compounded by being that much more hamfisted, not used to the pace AND not worried about managing momentum... I can see it being a bad recipe for part longevity when you consider how a motor moves the needle for an average rider.
  • 2 0
 Yeah it is total marketing bollox really, the extra 15lbs is pretty negligible when there is easily 150lb difference between a light/small rider and a ‘big lad’

That said it’s good to see eBikes generating some development in the durability area, even if it is all for the wrong reasons

I run lighter wheels on my ebike than on my MTB because the ebike is for solo cruising while the MTB gets hammered at bikeparks and gets all the ‘dicking about up the woods with the lads’ type abuse
  • 1 0
 @tunnelvision: I agree, its weird that e-bikes are the catalyst for manufacturers making better parts at a weight penalty. I would say one argument is e-bikes can simply see more miles and more descents, affecting fatigue life and increasing the number of one-off rock strikes and such, but again that is nothing you don't see on a downhill bike already.
  • 1 0
 @Glenngineer: engineer is in your name. Would the added weight of the battery and motor on the frame have an effect on the balance between sprung and unsprung weight? Maybe since the frame is now much heavier compared to the wheels, it is not moving around when hitting obstacles and the wheels and suspension are moving around much more? Because I agree that 15-20 lbs isn't that much different for a complete system, but the only thing heavier is the frame.

If a wheel set with all the bits (calipers, cassette, tires and rotors) weighs somewhere between 12-15 lbs, then the rest of the bike is around 20 lbs. That means the frame and everything attached to it is between 57 and 61% of the total bike weight. Now, add 15-20 lbs to the frame and the frame is now between 70 and 74% of the total bike weight.

I know it's rough math but I wonder if that could be a reason E-Bike wheels "need" to be beefed up?
  • 2 0
 If all the other components were beefed up and a dual crown fork used, wouldn't the e-bike be closer to an e-moto, just without the throttle? Once you've reached that stage, in for a penny...
  • 2 0
 Back than: Cheap heavy junk is cheap because it's heavy.
Today: Put a E-specific sticker on it and sell it as expensive heavy junk ( just like european bio food lol )

Well jokes aside, most of the E-bike stuff really is just pure marketing. I work at a bike shop and those E-bike wheels are junk. They are not even true from the factory and heavy as hell.
A Dt Swiss ex wheelset will hold up much better which is exactly what I did to my ebike.
  • 1 0
 If the wheels can handle up to like 300 pounds of human pushing on the them, why would 15 pounds of extra frame and a 170 pound rider pushing on the wheels act any differently?
  • 4 0
 I'm tempted to run a thermal simulation on those hubs. Maybe with a two-piece rotor where the aluminum will conduct faster, but the convection from your wheel rotating through air makes me think that the hub is never seeing anything more than a few degrees delta, let alone acting as a heat path. And that's assuming thermal grease is applied between the rotor and the hub. The Galfer finned rotors are a much better idea.
  • 6 0
 Save machining costs by describing anything overbuilt/undermachined with excess metal volume as a "heat sink"
  • 4 1
 Is it just me, or does that hub look more like a heat break on a 3D printer? Sure, it's got heat sink fins, but the heat has to get there for them to do anything. I don't think I've ever had my hub heat up a noticeable amount due to my brakes, and that's all those fins would fix. Maybe the extra material there conducts more heat into the hub shell but even still, how hot does the center of your brake rotor really get?

I'm open to the idea if it'd actually do something, but I want to see some data or thermal imaging or something. Otherwise, it's just more stress concentrations and extra machining that I'd have to pay more for.
  • 6 0
 For reference, here's some thermal imaging testing of different brake types. The story might be different on a warmer day and more sustained descent, but that brake rotor didn't even warm up in the center:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqMuxfHd9Vg
  • 4 0
 @aharms: I imagine it's cheaper and easier to market a solution to a problem that doesn't exist, than it is to fix a problem that does exist.
  • 3 0
 Never had an issue with any wheels on any of my ebikes and I've ran "Hybrid DT Swiss wheels", Bontrager Carbon Line Pros, DT Swiss EX 511, FR560 etc.

Every one of those wheels has held up just fine despite the Hybrid DT's being the only set that were built for ebikes.
  • 3 0
 Built for a motorized vehicle, not a bicycle.

At some point the pretense of the electric bicycle will fall away and we'll revisit the evolution from bicycle to motorcycle of 100 years ago.

I don't mind the evolution of the ebike, but do object to this as a means to allow motorized vehicles on public lands where they aren't allowed. The bike industry is really happy to sell these things to people at 10k or more a pop, not concerned about land use/access issues.
  • 3 0
 Lmao just admit ebike riders are usually.jockeys who can't ride or mantain for shit so you're just bring out less refined shit and these dumbasses with more money than common sense will buy them. A properly mantained rim will last for ages, and for reference I probably weight as much as a regular rider plus ebike combo on a normal bike y'all are just hacks
  • 6 0
 I'm built this way too!! I don't go on ebikes though.
  • 4 0
 Are these spokes stronger than DT Alpine III? I always thought that spokes with a thinner middle section (1.8mm in case of Alpine) were more fatigue resistant.
  • 3 1
 Good butted spokes are stronger than straight ones.
  • 2 0
 @wyorider: Yeah, my thoughts are that the stresses are highest in the thinnest but straight section. So the more vulnerable sections (where I typically break straight gauge spokes) near the ends (thread and elbow) are subject to lower stresses. I've never broken a DT Alpine III spoke but I've never broken the middle of a spoke either. So I don't see the point of having a 2mm mid section instead of 1.8mm.
  • 2 0
 @wyorider: Not stronger in overall tensile strength, but butted spokes _are_ more elastic which help spread the load through many spokes, and this raises the wheel's overall yield strength.

They're just number-wanking with those fat spokes. They think bigger numbers seem better when trying to sell durability. Except e-bikes don't see higher peak forces than a normal bike, so they don't need an increase in ultimate strength. They need tight tolerances to keep everything in its proper place and alignment, so it can handle the normal trail/enduro/whatever bike loads across many more repetitions.
  • 1 0
 @justinfoil: What is considered "tight tolerance" actually? I recently trued my wheel using the Park Tool spoke tension meter and their app. I stopped when spoke tension was within the 10%. Or do the experts only consider it good when it is within 5%? This is the rear wheel for an unassisted hardtail, 350 hybrid hub, Alpine III spokes and Spank Spike 26" rim.
  • 1 0
 @vinay: I mean more like overall quality tolerances. Bearing seats of the proper size, that don't crush bearings or allow them to spin. Properly concentric hub shells that maintain good bearing alignment. Hub flanges at good angles, with appropriate sized and finished holes. And yeah, properly tensioned spokes is key, too. I think the better the whole system is, the easier it will be to get and maintain consistent tension.
  • 1 0
 @justinfoil: Ah, I see. Until I got Syntace and DT hubs, I was primarily using Shimano hubs so I basically had the bearing tolerances in my own hands. The appropriate sized spoke holes in the hub is an interesting one. I understood you're best off with a fairly snug fit so there is one bike manufacturer I know who drills the spoke holes in the hubs up to size. Not even for mountainbikes, just for my commuter bike. I've always managed to fit these Alpine III spokes (so with the 2.3mm diameter near the spoke head) in any hub I've used. Which does get me thinking, doesn't this make nearly every hub out there have too wide spoke holes for the 2mm (butted or not) spokes people typically use?

As for the bike company mentioned: www.youtube.com/watch?v=A62GRLAI-7E. The guy is drilling spoke holes 2' into the video. Indeed lots of blind people there, still making mighty fine bikes.
  • 3 1
 I love the idea of this, I just wish it wasn't WTB doing it. I totally think there is a market that would appreciate a ~700-800g alloy rim for the back of their DH, E-bike or even Enduro rig. I just can't put much trust into WTB after my experience with their finest soft cheeses. DT swiss or Spank if you're listening, take that FR541 or 359 and make it even thicker, I'll buy it in a heart beat
  • 2 0
 Honest question here. If a riders weight plus a decent trailbike weighs more than an average e-bike and normal/skinny rider, where does all this need for specifically heavy e-bike components come from? Is it for the occasional chunky e-bike pilot? or does the industry just want to sell stuff? Sidenote here. I've never seen a rotor get blazing hot at the mounting point, not that I go around touching hot rotors. Just lay off the brakes and let er roll, that'll cool em off.
  • 2 1
 ebikers have garbage skills so they crunch chains and burn brake pads
  • 1 0
 It's purely marketing, you nailed it: rider weight range is way bigger than the e-bike to normal bike difference, which means the e-bike's extra weight does not need to be offset in anyway*. If it truly does matter, then the whole industry has been doing a disservice to every single rider that is more than 20ish pounds away from the "average rider weight", and still are since these stupid e-products aren't sold as weight-specific, they're sold as e-specific bullshit.
  • 1 0
 Do take into consideration that there are a multitude of lacing qualities, and those factor into rim integrity, big time. The closer to identical you can be regarding spoke tension, the greater the survivability of the rim becomes. When you think your finished tightening your spokes, take about three or four more rounds to make it as good as possible... Then the rims durability can be determined better.
  • 1 0
 Theheat sink is great, I go through disc side bearings way to quickly. These examples of ebikes pushing certain limits for the non ebike world are forcing me see the benefit of the segment I have not given any real consideration. (better rear shocks and reliable brakes next please)
  • 1 1
 Do your old disc-side bearings show discoloration or other signs of overheating? The accelerated wear could just be because they're subjected to more torque under braking than the other side's bearings.
  • 1 1
 @barp: historically the disc side bearing has badly cooked grease, or its been thoroughly liquified and has leaked out. Where the non disc side is generally still fine in comparison. The torque could also be a factor, but i am sure there are more than a few factors. Like the crappy bearing fit on the axle and hub shell of some hubs (i9 101 are the worst).
  • 2 0
 what limits are ebikes pushing? Besides* trail distance units per time unit? They don't go faster downhill that normal bikes; they don't go faster uphill than they, and normal bikes, can go downhill; they don't hit bigger jumps than existing normal bikes can hit. They don't even push weight limits because even the 30 pounds between a heavy-ass e-bike and typical trail bike is way less than the hundreds of pounds difference in the range of rider weights.

*Because the solution to that isn't just bigger and heavier shit, it's more precise stuff that doesn't wear out as fast. Who cares if your hub is overbuilt if it's not well made and munches bearings? It's not taking bigger hits than a normal bike, it's just taking more. You need a solid budget for chains, tires, and brake pads & rotors, not heavy ass wheels. You need well made wheels with tight tolerances that stay tight so those repeated average hits, that are still well within the ultimate strength, don't cause exponential wear (a worn part wears faster, and then it wears even faster, and then it wears even faster...).
  • 1 0
 @justinfoil: I didn't want to say it but fat inexperienced rides on 60 lb bikes will 100% push the limits and we already see brakes, brake pads,tires etc for ebikes. I'm just welcoming it and you are a typical keyboard warrior who needs to argue about it. Now I remember why I avoid this whole part of the internet wires.
  • 1 0
 @lemjam: that's wearing things out. Very different than pushing limits of what the equipment can handle acutely.

It's like needing brake pads more often on a truck that hauls big loads versus a truck that mostly drives empty. The loaded truck doesn't need to be over-loaded, doesn't need to be pushed beyond its limits, to still wear things out faster. It's just doing more work (force by distance), not too much work.
  • 1 0
 @justinfoil: sometimes the WAY people say things explains their lack of understanding louder than the actual words.
  • 1 0
 @lemjam: most times the way people don't say anything useful at all to back up their claims explains their lack of understanding louder than the actual words.
  • 1 0
 @justinfoil: a given weight suspended by a fixed line (cable etc) would need to be many factors stronger to withstand a very small freefall. It's an exponential factor of energy created by mass, momentum etc. This applies to all mass in motion. The *slightly heavier bikes/riders (as you explained) are actually demanding a lot more of the components. For what it's worth I don't care about your opinion because I calculate this shit every day for a living. I'm still glad to see parts made to take the abuse of hard riding, regardless of your assessment of the current parts that are not up to the task at all, *also, wearing out far too quickly. A wise person would say *quit while you think you are ahead.
  • 1 0
 Nvmd just realized you ride in the Midwest. No wonder your parts last. Come to the pnw, ride every day, and you'll see what I mean.
  • 1 0
 @lemjam: and if you make the cable strong enough for a given mass, and then drop that mass over and over again, is that pushing the limits, or wearing it out?

I don't ride in the Midwest. I ride in a place that's also pretty well known for eating bikes and riders.
  • 1 0
 I tried the i27 version of this HTZ rim, since I was excited to see it a heavy duty rim that was less than 30mm internal width. It arrived with the rim out of true at the weld joint, requiring quite a bit of spoke tension variation to pull it true. Credit where credit is due, WTB warrantied it with a new rim, but it's already riddled with flat spots after a dozen rides. Honestly 471's have fared better for me and are a lot lighter, but everybody's mileage may vary.
  • 3 0
 "WTB claim these heat sinks improve heat dissipation by up to 10%" but due to the extra weight of the wheels drain an extra 15% from your battery.........
  • 1 0
 The heavier riders that keep talking about how they do just fine with regular rims need to understand something (everyone does, really), when it comes to the energy you're putting into that wheel, velocity counts for a lot more than your body weight. A 175lb pro is is going to put a lot more energy into that wheel set bashing through things at high speed than a 240 lb novice.
  • 2 0
 I'm all for tough wheels, but for the weight of these, why wouldn't you just go with something like an ex511 or even fr560, and run a cushcore?
  • 1 1
 That rim well looks like a shit show for tire installation with an insert. You can build DT 350 hybrid hubs, Newmen SL EG 30 rims and Sapim strong spokes for less than these and they're practically indestructible at lower weight
  • 2 1
 Are my spoke nipples gonna get pulled thru the rim instead of the spoke breaking? Seems to be the trend on any wtb wheels I've ridden
  • 2 0
 The only thing ebike specific that’s liter than a regular bike is your ebike specific wallet
  • 1 0
 Expensive for what they are. I guess the tooling cost needs to be spread across the 3 wheelsets they sell.
  • 6 4
 It appears old farts on ebikes can shred too.
  • 2 0
 This will reduce your range too.
  • 1 0
 I like my noble wheels alot because they have moosebumps at all the spokeholes
  • 1 0
 Wtb tires suck ass .. almost died on a pair of vigilants..squirmiest damn tires I've ever experienced..heavy too
  • 1 0
 Trying to make ebikes as light as possible vs heavy doesn’t matter as durability is paramount.
  • 1 0
 They did it better in the early 2000s with the Bombshell MotoFin hub
  • 1 0
 E-bikes and Motorcross parts compatible!!
  • 1 0
 So they went the hope route, those wheels would be solid for a looong time
  • 1 1
 EX471 on 350's or Pro4's are cheaper, lighter and more durable (given WTB's history in soft rims)
  • 1 0
 Wouldn't the heat sinks cook the bearings?
  • 2 0
 Not sure. Brake rotors typically discolor at or near the brake track. It takes quite something to make them so hot that the heat transferred from the brake track all the way across the rotorspokes (and maybe even across the rivets or other interface in case of a floating rotor) to the hub would cook the bearings. There is still a fair distance between the rotor mount and the actual bearings.

If their story sells then still it is mission accomplished, I guess.
  • 1 0
 I bet even Paul Aston couldn’t break these babies!
  • 1 0
 Perfect for the my XC rig.
  • 2 0
 Perfect for my motorbike.
  • 1 0
 But are they built, Ford Tough?
  • 1 1
 Found On Road Dead
  • 1 0
 If toughness was the goal, they wouldn't have used straight gauge spokes.







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