Some of you may remember the original
Scott Voltage freeride bike from a decade ago. Inevitably, Scott have resurrected the name for their latest electric bike, but the new Voltage eRide has more in common with the current
Genius, with a hidden shock, carbon frame, 29" wheels and 155/160 mm of suspension. So while Scott's Lumen is the electric version of the Spark, the Voltage is the electric Genius. It weighs about the same as the original Voltage, though.
It uses TQ's light and quiet HPR 50 motor, with a 360 Wh battery integrated into the downtube. The frame can accommodate a range extender and a water bottle simultaneously, and the suspension can be controlled via Scott's TwinLoc or TracLoc system (depending on the model), which can lock out the fork and shock, or just the shock, for extra efficiency.
Scott Voltage eRide Details• Full-carbon frame, internal shock, TwinLoc or TracLoc suspension
• 155mm (r)/160 mm (f) travel
• TQ HPR 50 motor, 50 Nm & 300 W peak power
• 360Wh battery (160Wh extender available)
• 29" wheels
• Weight: 19.2 kg / 42.3 lb (actual, XL )
• Sizes: S, M, L, XL; 437-513 mm reach
• Price: €10,999 / $10,999 / £10,099 as tested
•
scott-sports.com I've been riding the Voltage eRide 900 tuned both in Spain (pictured) and on my home trails in Scotland. Let's dig into the details and how it rides.
Frame & MotorImpressively, Scott managed to squeeze a motor, battery and a shock inside the frame while leaving room for a range extender
and a water bottle (or two water bottles) within the front triangle. It certainly helps that the TQ motor is one of the most compact on the market, but Scott had to put the lower shock mount slightly further forward than it is on the Genius and add a shock extender to the other end to make it fit.
Because the shock is hidden inside, the sag indicator is built into the rocker link, and measures the true sag percentage at the rear wheel, as opposed to a percentage of the shock stroke that you'd usually measure. For most bikes, 30% of the shock stroke corresponds to a bit more than 30% of the wheel travel, because the axle moves further for every millimetre of shock stroke at the beginning of the travel than at the end. Therefore, you may want to aim for a slightly higher sag percentage than usual with Scott's system. There is a small rubber port for accessing the upper shock bolt, but this doesn't let you see the shock shaft, so the external dial is the only way to see if you're using full travel.
A small door under the downtube with a quarter-turn latch allows access to the shock's compression and rebound dials, plus the air valve. This is a little fiddly especially if the bike is muddy. To access the battery, there is a larger cover secured with four bolts. The 360 Wh battery is not designed to be removed in a hurry or charged off the bike. An additional 160 Wh range extender is included with the top-spec 900 SL model (bringing the total capacity to 520 Wh) and is compatible with all other models.
A top-tube-mounted display can indicate the precise battery percentage (a useful feature when doing longer rides, especially when compared to Shimano's five-bar guess-o-meter) or current motor and rider power output, among the other usual metrics. As we've come to expect from Scott, cabling runs through the headset and internal cable guides. The headset also offers +/-0.6° of head angle adjustment.
GeometryAs you'd expect, the Voltage's geometry is very similar to the Genius. The main differences are a 15 mm longer chainstay (in all sizes) and a 6 mm higher bottom bracket. At 63.9 degrees in the slack setting, the head angle is fairly slack for the travel, while the seat tube is reasonably steep - but neither figure is an outlier.
Unusually, both the (effective) stem length and crank length are size-specific. Stems go from 40 mm to 50 mm in the larger two sizes; cranks go from 170 mm to 175 mm. I'd rather have a 40 mm stem in all sizes and shorter cranks across the board.
SuspensionThe rear suspension delivers 155 mm of travel (5 mm more than the Genius) via one of two shocks. Two models use a Fox Nude 6T shock, which has an inline architecture (no reservoir) and TwinLoc adjustment. Here, switching to the middle mode on the handlebar remote firms up the compression damping in the fork and shock, as well as reducing the shock's air volume to make it more progressive. The third setting locks-out the fork and shock's compression adjustment. This shock is paired to a Fit4 fork with three damping threshold modes to match the shock.
The 900 Tuned model (tested) uses a Fox Float X Nude shock, which has a piggyback reservoir to help with heat management and damping consistency. It only reduces the air volume in the middle setting (no change to the damping) and adds a compression threshold in the third setting. This is paired with a Grip2 fork which is not connected to the handlebar remote. Simple, right?
Although other shocks may fit, Scott say that no others are approved for use.
Despite the unusual suspension packaging, the kinematics that dictate the suspension performance aren't too left field. The leverage that the rear axle has over the shock starts high for a soft initial stroke and drops throughout the travel to firm it up towards bottom out. The change in leverage ratio from 0% to 100% travel (AKA the progressivity percentage) is pretty typical these days, so it should provide decent support and bottom-out resistance without being overly harsh. The 55 mm stroke is short for the rear wheel travel, meaning the average leverage ratio is pretty high (2.82). This isn't necessarily a problem so long as the shock is well-tuned for it, but could make heat fade more an issue on long rough descents, especially when combined with the lack of airflow to the shock.
Scott don't appear to be relying on the handlebar remotes to prop up the suspension, as anti-squat levels are high by e-bike standards, especially in the harder gears. This should mean the suspension stays high in its travel under power, but it may inhibit suspension sensitivity when pedalling over bumps.
Models
Ride ImpressionsThe TQ motor delivers a very different experience to its rivals, even some of the mid-weight options. It's whisper quiet, which combined with the sleek futuristic look means you could just about hide the fact you're riding an ebike. The downside is that even in the most powerful mode (which I used about 90% of the time) there isn't a lot of support. That's great if you want it to feel closer to a normal bike, but it certainly doesn't have the cartoonish indifference to steep slopes of a full-power e-bike. Of course, it will still get you up much quicker than any mountain bike, but if you've ridden full-power e-bikes (or even some of the mid-power units like Bosch SX) it's worth being aware that it's not the same ballgame. It's like comparing a bracing cup of tea to two cans of Monster.
On the launch in Spain, I noticed the power starting to drop off during a prolonged fire-road climb. On the display, I could see the motor was producing way less than 300 W even when I was producing significantly more than that and using the maximum assistance mode. The same thing happened to another heavier-than-average journalist, while lighter riders started pulling away. TQ explained that the motor limits its power output when it reaches a certain temperature. The motor became hot to the touch (though not scalding) on steep climbs. It seems less than ideal to have such a source of heat so close to the shock (air shocks are affected by temperature), but I can't say I noticed any dramatic changes in suspension performance after steep climbs or descents.
Without a range extender, I was getting about 700 m of climbing out of a full charge in Scottish winter conditions using only the strongest assistance mode. Mathematically, that would correspond to just over 1,000 m with the range extender (which I didn't get to try out in Scotland). That said, you could get more range with less assistance or milder weather, and the Voltage is very pedal-efficient, so it's not a big deal to ride it without any assistance at all if required. As for the TracLoc, I only used it to try it out. I don't think it's necessary.
On the descents, it's not indistinguishable from an unassisted trail bike, but it's pretty close. The longer chainstay and extra frame weight make it a little harder to pop the wheel off the ground, but they also aid with traction and stability on loose turns. Either way, it's not a dramatic effect and a far cry from the 25 kg full-power e-bikes that do take some getting used to.
The rear suspension is supple but does get to the end of its travel easily on fast hits. Bottom outs aren't clunky, but it's not the most reassuring on heavy landings. I also didn't gel with the 50 mm (effective) stem length of the one-piece bar/stem. To me, this makes the steering feel a little awkward on tight, steep turns. Aside from those gripes, the Voltage is easy to ride fast on rough and technical terrain. One trail in Spain had a mix of chunky rock chutes, tight turns and pinch climbs; the Voltage was in its element here, with a good mix of maneuverability, stability and intuitive assistance for the technical uphills. With a shorter stem and perhaps a bigger volume spacer in the shock, it could be a very competent descender indeed.
Can y'all just let us talk about stuff that interests us? When people are talking on a bus about their hobby, do you lean in to mock them? This is so pathetic. I have almost no interest in ebikes, but them existing is doing 0 harm to me and mine.
Pinkbike really does appeal to the lowest common denominator at this point. Anti-social comments constantly getting upvoted. Clever quips and bullying being praised over factual breakdowns of technology. Can we go back to being a cycling website instead of just being a bunch of c*nts pissing and moaning about stuff we have no interest in?
You're cringe as f*ck "bro"
Don't get me started on their mickey mouse's cable routing.
Better give them the fingers guys by not buying their bikes than waiting for them to turn you out for a warranty claim for whatever reason. The worst of the worst at that price tag !
Cringephobia!!
up next.
If you don't like the bike it's ok but there are so many bikes out there. Not all bikes have to be done the same exact way all the time.
There are those that don't like innovation or change. There are those that welcome change and innovation. There are those who are in between.
It's like, no one is forcing anyone to buy one particular bike.I personally love the innovation Scott is doing. In a market full of cookie cutter frames/suspension. We are living in the golden age of cycling/mountain biking. Technology and R&D have come a long way and will continue to advance.
I'm not in the market for an e-bike but this would be an e-bike I would love to own if I were and I'm not ashamed to admit it.
It's a bike
Cons:
Headset routing
Expensive
Door in downtube
....
One piece bar/stem
Internal Shock that is proprietary and can't be replaced
3 x Levers on bars (do you really need lockout on an ebike?)
Is a Scott bike
Having owned a genius 930 for my first full sus I feel blessed and bamboozled that I was convinced to buy it. It taught me to never buy another Scott, essentially. Then you can do fun things like change/upgrade your bike if you don't buy one! Scott bike with a woefully under-gunned shock for your riding? Well that's too damn bad!
One of the other issues (apart from things like proprietary headset spacers or indeed proprietary stems on some designs) is that in exchange for slicker aesthetics and aero benefits (which are really the only practical justifications for headset routing, and strike me as a largely moot point on a MTB), you end up with a bike that’s significantly harder to work on, or more expensive (if you’re paying the LBS) for what have traditionally been fairly simple jobs.
Because these jobs (like a quick wipe and clean of the headset bearings and seats) are no longer simple, people either avoid doing them or lament at the time & cost. Which then leads on to bigger / more expensive issues.
Random example - I opened up a customer’s Venge yesterday, a aero road bike from Specialized. It’s not that old, & on the outside looked super clean.
The inside of the headtube however looked like the Breccia Tar Pits, with shot headset bearings, grit and greasy dirt everywhere.
Because the customer rides in a hot & sweaty place (Houston) and since the routing and spacer arrangement do an excellent job of directing dirt & salt water down right onto the bearing assembly, and trapping it there, the headset had died a premature death. Cue a much bigger job, and a bigger bill (including new bar tape etc), because in exchange for aesthetics, this system is simultaneously less well sealed and more time consuming to work on.
My next job on the stand was a Seven Ti / carbon mix road bike, from about 18 years ago. Beautiful bike. Took me about five, ten minutes to drop the fork and clean the (still immaculate, 18 years later) Chris King bearings & cups, then reassemble, as part of a rebuild. It took me less time to fully rebuild, re-cable and set up that bike, then deal with just the headset issues alone in the Venge.
I know which of the two I’d prefer to own…
I get paid to work on bikes, but I’d honestly, honestly rather offer better value to customers by virtue of the bike design not requiring two or three hours of work where 30 odd minutes used to suffice for the same job.
Changing a fork is only a TINY bit harder with headset routing. You just have to make sure the steer tube slides past the pre-routed cables, properly. Which means, pulling the fork to check/clean inside the headtube isnt difficult. Though I will say, the inside of my headtube after a full season of riding didnt show any more build up of dirt or dust than on my previous, non headset routed bike. I willl admit, I dont ride in the rain or excessive mud.
As far as cable routing goes, it is WAY easier on a new genius than an old one. Routing the cables through the headset is quick and getting them through the frame is effortless. No cable snakes or magnets needed. I MUCH prefer routing cables on my new genius VS my old one.
Maybe im easier on headset bearings than others, but mine last years and never get dirty.
Is a headset routed bike EASIER to work on overall, no. But is EVERYTHING about it harder? Also no. I agree fully that on a mountain bike, the internal routing is supposed to be just for aesthetics. But there are other hidden benefits. My cables dont get caught on anything, ever. Not while riding and not in the shop or around other bikes. Its a small thing, but when im wrangling 4 bikes onto my hitch carrier I definitely notice the cables on other bikes.
At the end of the day, everyone has their preference. I really like Scotts Genius... so I buy them and get what goes along with them by default. Do I NEED headset routed cables. Not at all. I couldnt care less if it had or didnt have them. But im not convinced its the huge hassle everyone says it is. Not on this bike anyway. Maybe other bikes, or styles of bike, or if you swap things like brakes and bearings often. But for me, on this bike, its not.
But headset routing and Twin Loc can take a running jump..
Lets hear about bikes that most folks will buy to do hobby level mountain biking, 1-5K?
IMO, if pinbike (Outside...) wants to expand their base, its not with reviewing Lamborghinis and Ferraris.
If you take your shock off alot, this is definitely a TERRIBLE design. (I own a Genius, same frame design). BUT, if your worried about cleaning the shock, dont. It simply never gets dirty. After a full season of riding my shock was as clean as when I first got the bike. With that said, I dont ride in wet conditions often. But I do wash my bike regularly and the water from washing NEVER gets to the shock. To your third point, the sag indicator is located on the outside of one of the pivots. Its super easy to see and use and it essentially works just like the ring on most shocks.
I appreciate your comment that this probably isnt the bike for you. Most people just write it off as "junk" without considering that there are people who DO appreciate the design. Just because it doesnt work for you doesnt make it a bad design. Your comment was refreshing.
Alternatively, can someone explain how you get to that top shock bolt??