Sometimes a good idea catches on quick. Reserve's Fillmore valves, released in 2021, re-invented the Presta valve with a coreless design that promised three times more airflow, making tubeless tires easier to install. They cost $49.99 USD a set. Now Funn has a coreless valve that is also claimed to triple airflow, and they cost $35 USD a pair.
Reserve's valves boast a lifetime warranty, so I asked Funn what they offer: "It has a warranty. Not a lifetime warranty but we have a robust replacement warranty in place."
Funn FastAir Details:• 3 times greater airflow than traditional Presta valves
• Easy to install
• Compatible with tire inserts, CO2 inflators & sealant injectors
• Fully rebuildable
• Air release without removing the cap
• "Robust replacement warranty"
• Price: $35 USD
• More info:
funnmtb.com While the principle is similar, they're not a carbon copy. The Funn valves allow air to exit through slots in the side of the valve, making them compatible with foam inserts as the insert won't block the valve when releasing air. They're CO2 inflator compatible and can be rebuilt if they get clogged. Funn say they play nicely with sealant injectors too. The cap is designed to release air without having to entirely remove the cap, making it easier to fine-tune tire pressures.
Constricted air flow and clogging appear to be the same. Remaining advantage is not to be able to break the core.
In conclusion: they fix many, many problems that Presta valves have. All without having to attempt to make some more expensive, proprietary "solution" that still suffers from the clogging issues you mentioned
The ConvertAir is used without the presta core so it's also easy to add sealant. I use the RideAir can to set the bead.
And it's easy to find dice shaped valve caps
Another thing is that because of the design of a schrader valve, where it's recessed, things can fall into the valve area that have to be blown out. Whereas the presta valve is all external and you don't have to worry about this. You also don't have to worry as much if you lose the cap.
The other thing I can think of is that you can uninstall a presta core with just an adjustable wrench, whereas a schrader valve essentially requires the tool. But, again: the tool can be found at pretty much any auto parts store, costs almost nothing, and sometimes even comes as a kit with spare cores.
LEZYNE Dual Valve Alternative Bicycle Pump Head, Presta, Schrader, and Dunlop Compatible, for High-Pressure Tire Floor Pumps a.co/d/jkVbEcO
I guess they can’t patent Schrader valves and charge a fortune for them
New tire install: install one side of bead, pour in Stan’s race sealant, install other side of bead, remove core, blast in compressed air to set bead, reinstall core, set pressure with hand pump.
sealant refresh: remove core, inject Stan’s (non race), reinstall core, set pressure with hand pump.
Pesta cores coupled with sealant (especially fibre filled) can lead to sealant doing its job on the core and clogging it.
The work around is replace the cores every so often and carry a spare in case you face a clogged core on the trail, or the fragile thread snaps off when trying to work on it with freezing hands and/or gloves.
I don't get what other people are doing wrong
Sounds like you have extra steps in mind.
Let's reinvent the valve to sell more valves
Once the tire seats it doesn’t matter if the presta check valve doesn’t go in quick. Then I top off with a floor pump.
Also looks like sealant would collect around that cage and cause boogers to form like a witches nostril!!
Having the valve stick out beyond the rim sidewalls is a ticking time bomb. Sooner or later you will hit it (certainly the first time you get a blow out and cant stop within 1m) and that will put very high loads into a very thin part of the rim that just isn't designed to take any impacts. Aluminium rim will deform and possibly leak and eventually crack and almost certainly leak.
Also, looks like the holes in the valve cap will fill with muck which will work its way into the threads and around the needle every time you inflate etc. Any crap in the gap between the needle and the main body can work it's way down to the seal (you will actually pump it down) and potentially will stop the valve closing fully.
76projects.com/products/hi-flow-no-clog-tubeless-valves
*yeah I wasn’t brave enough either
Point is, there’s no reason to not use one to get you back to the trailhead. The back home you can refill the tire with normal air.
It wouldn’t hurt to refill the tire with a normal pump when you get the chance.
Basically, CO2 readily /suffuses/ through rubber and especially butyl tubes, hence the age of the “wisdom” that a tire filled will CO2 instead of atmospheric air will lose pressure faster.
www.exploringoverland.com/overland-tech-travel/2016/3/25/3izopxom72k7p3vxpvjtfuhk7ouscc
However, I think my prefered method won't work. I remove the core and use a syringe to fill in the sealant. The tube diameter seams to tiny for that.
Once it gets clogged/jammed it basically doesn't work. You can't even pump up your tyre.