Hope Announces New Tech 4 Brakes

Mar 1, 2022
by Seb Stott  
photo


Hope boasts a wide array of products from hubs and headsets to complete bikes, but they're probably best known for their brakes, which enjoy an enviable reputation for reliability and something of a cult following. Today they're launching a new brake lever, the Tech 4. As you may have guessed by the name, this will replace the long-standing Tech 3 and is compatible with all four of Hope's caliper options. Hope has also updated both of their four-piston calipers, the E4 and V4.

For those who didn't know, Hope's brakes are named by the lever and then the caliper; so for example, the Tech 4 E4 is a combination of the Tech 4 lever with the E4 caliper. The new Tech 4 lever can be combined with the same four calipers as its predecessor - the X2 (cross-country), E4 (enduro), V4 (downhill) and Trial Zone (trials) - and there's a choice of standard or braided hoses to tie them together.

Hope Tech 4 Details
• All-new Tech 4 lever available with X2, E4 & V4 calipers.
• Claimed 30% more power versus Tech 3 brakes
• Revised lever shape for more leverage at the bite point
• Hinged clamp reduces weight
• Improved shifter integration
• Updated E4 and V4 caliper with hybrid pistons
• New "racing compound" pads as standard
• Available in Black & Silver with optional Blue, Red, Purple or Orange highlights
• $220-$280 / £175-£220 / €220-€275
• hopetech.com

photo
photo
photo

Tech 4 lever updates

Perhaps the biggest update to the Tech 4 lever is a boost in power thanks to an increase in the overall leverage between the lever blade and the brake pad. According to Hope, this results in a 30% increase in braking power for a given force at the lever. This is achieved through both higher mechanical leverage through a change in lever blade geometry and a different hydraulic ratio thanks to a smaller diameter master cylinder. Hope claims the lever geometry offers "a linear relationship between brake pressure and lever force making it easy and intuitive to control the power".

New seals are designed to reduce friction in the hydraulic system; along with roller bearings in the lever pivot which allow for a lighter return spring, this makes it easier and less fatiguing when using the brakes repeatedly on long descents. The Tech 4 also has a hinged clamp to reduce weight compared to the Tech 4, a lower stack height reservoir and "improved shifter integration" with 30° of angle adjustment.

What hasn't changed? The levers retain the handy bite point and reach adjust dials and they're still side-specific, so you'll have to swap hoses if you're from a country where they run their brakes on the wrong side. Hope leave both hoses uncut (1.6 m long) so you'll have to trim one of them down no matter how you run your brakes.

Calliper updates

Meanwhile, Hope's four-piston E4 and V4 callipers have been updated to house hybrid pistons, made of stainless steel with a phenolic insert, rather than being entirely made of phenolic resin (a much softer material). According to Hope, this "allows for smoother movement and less maintenance, while still being able to manage high temperatures without heat transfer during extreme use." For what it's worth, the SRAM Guide Ultimate used metallic pistons, and in my experience, they were far smoother and more consistent than the standard Guide RSC of the time.

All Tech 4 brakes, no matter the caliper style, will now come with Hope's new Racing brake pads. These organic compound pads are designed for minimal bed-in time and maximum power (at the expense of lifespan). For more on how Hope's pad compounds compare, click here.

Pricing & availability
Tech 4, E4 - Braided hose - RRP £205 / €255 / $260
Tech 4, E4 - Black hose - RRP £195 / €245 / $245
Tech 4, V4 - Braided hose - RRP £220 / €275 / $280
Tech 4, V4 - Black hose - RRP £210 / €265 / $265
Tech 4, X2 - Black hose - RRP £175 / €220 / $220
Tech 4, X2 - Braided hose - RRP £185 / €230 / $235
Tech 4, X2 Flatmount - Black hose - RRP £175 / €220 / $220
Tech 4, X2 Flatmount - Braided hose - RRP £185 / €230 / $235
Tech 4, Trial Zone - Black hose - RRP £190 / €235 / $240

They should be available at Hope dealers from the 1st of March.

Update:


I asked Hope how the weight of the Tech 4 compares to the Tech 3 and to elaborate on how the increase in the leverage ratio translates on the trail. This is their response:

bigquotesThe overall ratio of the Tech 4 master cylinder is increased around 30% over a Tech 3. We have achieved this with a mixture of hydraulic and mechanical ratio. The bore size has been dropped to Ø9.5mm to increase the hydraulic ratio and the mechanical ratio has been increased with a slightly longer lever blade and optimization of the cam position at bite point. Translating this into a percentage power increase is tricky, variations in pads, bedding in process, type of braking event (i.e., long single stop from high speed or short pull to take off some speed), debris, contaminants, weather conditions, all effect this figure. We are confident users will feel a dramatic increase on the trail and reduced fatigue when coupled with the lighter, smoother lever action.

The TECH 4 E4 is 283g complete with pads, mounting bolts, fully bled, whereas TECH 3 E4 is 266g.—Hope


Posted In:
Reviews and Tech Reviews Brakes Hope Hope Tech 4


Author Info:
seb-stott avatar

Member since Dec 29, 2014
297 articles
Report
Must Read This Week
Police Called to Scott Sports Headquarters as CEO Dispute Continues
63819 views
First Ride: Fox Releases New Grip X & Grip X2 Dampers
45944 views
Pinkbike Poll: Center Lock or 6-Bolt Brake Rotor Mounting?
42315 views
Tech Briefing: Fancy Suspension, Carbon Wheels, Spring Apparel & More
37082 views
Pinkbike's DH Fantasy League: Get Your Team On The Line for Round 1
33262 views
SRAM Patent Shows Compact Motor x Battery Unit
31374 views
Bike Check: Craig Evans' Airdrop Edit V5
30386 views
First Look: Fair Bicycle's Drop Best Offset Saddle Clamp is Universally Compatible
29078 views

206 Comments
  • 112 6
 f*ck me, you will need 12” long fingers for those things!
  • 79 0
 Big northern salad fingers
  • 15 0
 Lancashire , explains it
  • 42 0
 ET's favourite brake.
  • 152 0
 @commental: ET phone loam.
  • 2 0
 @Compositepro: yeah, that and having some extra digits to grip the bar...
  • 11 0
 @korev: i think thats norfolk mate coming from yorkshire i have no beef with the 6 digit folks
  • 4 1
 Hope it’s not true …..
  • 4 0
 @Compositepro: It'd be too advanced for Norfolk, these bikes have wheels you know...
  • 6 1
 Relax, they’re just bringing back the 3 (or 4) finger brake lever. If 80s and 90s fashion can have another shot, why not brake levers?
  • 2 0
 lol good eyes. always pains me how levers aren't just designed for index fingers close to bars
  • 6 0
 Stem mount.
  • 1 0
 well, at least they´re adjustable!
  • 5 0
 @npbc i read this in a gordon ramsay voice
  • 5 0
 They're not for fingers.
  • 6 0
 thats what she said
  • 1 0
 @gnarlysipes: I’d like to see knuckle duster brake levers
  • 1 0
 Fudbusters!
  • 3 0
 Nah dude, Hope gets a lot of its following from Trials riders, and we looooooove dem long levers! Just push the lever further down the handlebar and use the adjusters to keep the travel wherever you want it!
  • 8 0
 The levers are not as long as you might thing. They are only slightly longer than the Tech3's, which I have never found overly long. Adam Brayton posted the follow pic so you can see the difference:

www.pinkbike.com/photo/22155483
  • 1 0
 @Compositepro: Lancastrian here and former lover of the moto V2… still not long enough.
  • 1 0
 @thenotoriousmic: the Moto V2's were seriously long, between the MC layout and lever!
  • 86 0
 More leverage.... so longer levers then?
  • 99 0
 Can’t fault that level of engineering
  • 21 3
 It's a bit more complex than that. Hope say the cam position (the link that drives the master cylinder) is different and the master cylinder is smaller in diameter (increasing the hydraulic leverage ratio. But yes, the lever blade is longer too.
  • 12 0
 @seb-stott: Seb, the levers may be side specific but the calipers aren’t front/rear specific right?

If both come with long hoses where shouldn’t be any need to swap them round. No matter which side you run your front brake you just need to trim that hose, or have I missed something?
  • 3 0
 @seb-stott: There must be someone in the PB community willing and able to compare this brakes hydraulic ratio- using that 9.5mm master cylinder diameter stated- against Trickstuff. Anyone sitting on the info and up to the task? Naturally the pad contact area, pad friction and mechanical ratio with the cam are more difficult to get a grasp on.
  • 6 9
 @seb-stott: Won't a smaller diameter master cylinder push less fluid and make lever travel longer? perhaps more modulation but don't see how it makes it more powerful? can you explain?
  • 3 0
 @wingguy: - You are correct.
  • 7 1
 @melonhead1145: it means less effort at the lever for the same breaking performance, but with more stroke.
  • 2 1
 @melonhead1145: braking*
  • 11 0
 @walter217: yeah, it's all there: ridemonkey.bikemag.com/threads/frankenbrakes-and-brake-improvement-discussion.274164

You also have a Gsheet with a lot of data from different levers and master cylinders.

And for those who don't know aside from mechanical leverage (lever blade length and pivot locations), you can also influence brake power with hydraulic leverage. Basically you either need a smaller master cylinder piston area, or a bigger caliper piston area if you want to increase power in your system. With the different experimenting I did so far it feels that hydraulic leverage yields more results that mechanical leverage.
  • 1 0
 @melonhead1145: Think about the brakes in your car. You have a tiny by comparison master cylinder pushing rather large pistons up front and smaller pistons in the back, the difference in the combined size of the slave pistons to the master is huge, this is why pushing car brakes feels rather effortless. (yes i know there is a vacuum assist but even without it you can still push the brakes). Anyway this is called 'Volumetric Efficiency'
  • 1 0
 @walter217: They could compare them to any brake lol whats different abt the Trickstuff
  • 1 0
 @Davec85: Ok, yes I see what you mean. You would push less fluid and move the pistons less so easier to pull the lever, so the same force at the lever actually gives you more power at the Caliper. I supposed the new Cam is to control lever throw as with a longer lever and smaller diameter cylinder the throw will be greatly increased
  • 9 0
 @bozomichael: Trickstuff have the benchmark brake of late, a power so high the old guard would have us think should be unusable. Imagine a lot of us reading are hoping these turn out to be the 'Tech 4 Dirrettissima', at an accessible price.
  • 1 0
 @wingguy: "Options
All brakes in left or right configuration are supplied with rear hoses fitted (1.6m) as standard so reducing the stocking options required."

So your thinking came true Smile
  • 1 2
 @mashrv1: you f*cking can!! That lever is bullshit.
  • 5 0
 it must have taken a MOMENT to figure this out with lever length... ayoooo
  • 73 0
 Do they come with 31,8mm clamp diameter, you know, because of how far inboard you have to mount them :-)
  • 22 0
 That’s just silly . . . 35mm
  • 43 0
 Not necessary. Just mount them next to the opposite grip.
  • 3 1
 @vinay: genius !
You mean on the outside of the opposite grip, minimum 800mm bar of course.
  • 1 1
 Yeah, I can't cut my current bars to the width I want because the older V4 leavers from way back are mounted really far in. They solved that problem by putting the mount at the base of the leaver, but now they went and made the leaver longer lol...
  • 3 0
 @vinay: it’s more fun if you mount them to your mates handlebars.
  • 45 4
 All these people talking crap on Hope is crazy. I have been using them for the past 3 years, I will never use anything else. They stop great, bleed easy, heavy duty billet casing and look fantastic
  • 14 0
 And to add: they have plenty of small parts for repairs/upgrades and continue to support older models.
  • 12 1
 Have to agree, been on my set since 2016 which have moved over 2 bikes and have only had to bleed them twice since. About the only other thing I’ve done is lubricate the pistons and that’s it. Absolutely solid brakes.
  • 8 1
 Agreed, they are awesome brakes.
  • 5 0
 Still rocking some M4s that are 20years old, and they are sweet. Not as powerful as some others but feel great and can still buy every part for them to this day.
  • 4 4
 Because completely swapping a top cap is more "easy" than just unscrewing a bleed screw........
  • 3 0
 I hit a tree in Schladming right where the nut connects the line to the MC. The MC leaked, I went down on the rear brake only (totally fine on the red line). Went to the shop, tightened the nut a little more, bled the brake and it was fine ever since. Try that with your uber powerful plastic shit called Magura 'breaks', ha!
  • 4 0
 @tuskenraider: yes, bleeding Hopes takes a little more time than Shimanos for example, depending on the way you do it. But you will only have to bleed them properly once, not every 6 months at best like Shimanos (yes I have both, M675s on the commuter, Hope where it counts).
  • 1 0
 I don't like to bleed them but except that, I love everything about my E4 too! By the way Galfer is making the oem pads for Hope and all the other options were already available....I have the more powerful green pads on my older all purple E4 so really don't see why I would change! Wink The new tech 4 probably looks good on a carbon frame but for my aluminium frames, I prefer the more old school, square, look of the old tech 3. If 220mm rotors and green pads is still not enough power for you than yeah, try the new one I guess.
  • 1 0
 How are they compared to Srams? Really like the modulation on them wouldn't want bity brakes like Maguras or Shimanos. Which is what I currently have, both.
  • 1 0
 @Bunabe: I had Guide RSC that are now on my fatbike, then I had shimano saint that I hated so much, to big of a contrast with the Guide...after 2 years I had the money to buy some Hope E4 to put on my new bike. They are perfect for me! They are really more powerfull than Guides, less than Saint with a lot more modulation! If you want more power, just buy the green pads and bigger rotors.
  • 1 1
 @Bunabe: the old Hope brakes were crap. They don’t have as much power as the equivalent sram model, the levers were uncomfortable but it was more how they applied that power which was the biggest issue with all the power coming on late sort of like the exact opposite of a shimano brake. Just made it really vague and unpredictable also the levers were physically hard to pull compared to other manufacturers which didn’t help with the arm pump. Looks like they’ve addressed all the issues I had with the old brakes except the sharp edges on the lever blades and the dimples. Can’t wait to try them. Definitely going to be my next purchase if they’ve sorted out these issues.
  • 2 0
 @thenotoriousmic: I've had Hope Tech 3/E3 and V4's for 4-5 years respectfully. Until last year I lived in Colorado and had DH ski lift bike park passes every year for 8 years. Not a single time to have a problem with power and Hope's. I'm in my mid-40s, but used to race Semi-Pro DH in the late 90s and early 00's so while not a rockstar, not a total squid either I've heard a few folks mention that but I don't understand what their issues with them are.
  • 2 0
 @bman33: fair enough. I’ve always been a massive fan of hope brakes myself other than not getting on with the tech 3 lever. All goes well I’ll be jumping back on the bandwagon myself since they’re made locally.
  • 2 0
 @Timo82: Ok thanks I will consider Hope as an option next to Srams. Look great as well with the anodization.
  • 39 10
 I wish Hope would make a mineral oil version. If MO is good enough for Magura / Formula surely Hope could do it...
  • 34 33
 Dot is king
  • 39 4
 @GZMS: Then mineral is divine.
  • 8 0
 YES, especially given you have to open the reservoir to bleed Hope brakes
  • 22 7
 @GZMS: Dot is not.
  • 26 4
 @GZMS: stripped paint and thrown away half empty containers because of hygroscopic properties seem to disagree. Let's keep it at 'it's personal' or the more popular 'pick a brake fluid and be a dick about it'.
  • 8 9
 @vp27: Hmm..how are car brakes bled I wonder..
  • 10 1
 @gnarnaimo: They purge them from a sealed container, so avoid getting the oil get in contact with ambient (moist) air.

In the list of mineral oil brake brands: it used to be just Shimano, Magura and Tektro (as far as I know). Formula has joined, Trickstuff uses theirs and for those who thought Tektro wasn't cool enough there now is the TRP brand name.

Can someone here please claim Trickstuff brakes sucks because of their choice of brake fluid? Then I'll make some popcorn..
  • 21 6
 @vinay: lol...it was a rhetorical question.
I have been an automotive tech for 17 years and have seen maybe a handful of techs bleed the system with pressure blenders (closed systems). My entire career I have gravity bled brake systems with the cap off the top of the reservoir for sometimes well over half an hour, as do the majority of red seal technicians I have worked with.
Never had an issue, this is a normal way to bleed dot brake systems.
The issue with hygroscipic fluids is when they are left open to the elements for long periods of time (I.e the brake fluid bottle having a faulty seal and being used after sitting open for days). People's fear of dot fluid is silly and so greatly unwarranted.
  • 6 1
 @gnarnaimo: how do you avoid air getting into the abs module on a car when gravity bleeding? Do you replace it as the mc reservoir empties?
Agreed on the fear of water contamination of DOT from an open bottle on a shelf. Be interesting to see some comparisons of boiling point open container half full for a month on a shelf vs. Freshly opened. Personally i don't like DOT because of the paint remover aspect, and tge smell and texture, as well as difficulty recycling it.
  • 7 8
 @Mac1987: stripped paint? For how long are you soaking things in dot? do you also drink and not eat your calories, to avoid washing ass?
  • 2 0
 cant you just find some seals and change those?
  • 4 2
 @GZMS: didn't clean everything properly after performing service on Avid Juicy 5's (horrible brakes by the way... impossible to keep running properly without stuck pistons and needing a bleed every couple of days), forgetting to rinse with water. After a couple of days, the paint on the frame was damaged. Wasn't completely stripped, but damaged nonetheless. Was partly my own fault of course, and mineral oil isn't completely harmless either, but DOT is far more corrosive.
  • 3 5
 @GZMS: +1 for the "do you avoid washing ass" comment
  • 7 1
 @gnarnaimo: I'm not going to compete against your experience with wrenching motorized vehicles. However, for the home mechanic I don't see issues with mineral oil. For me personally, I think it is the better option. Twenty years ago I bought a one liter bottle of Magura Royal Blood. Silly idea of course as over all those years I've not even made it halfway that bottle and I don't know how often the bottle has been opened and closed. Pretty sure if it were DOT, it would no longer be good. I know Hope offers really tiny bottles of DOT 5.1 but is that what most people are using, or do they use larger bottles they keep for several years once opened? Especially as you're a mechanic, you likely wouldn't keep a single bottle for long.

As for performance (as in boiling point number) I'm not sure how much it matters. It seems the majority in WC DH racing seems to be on mineral oil brakes (Shimano, Magura, TRP, Trickstuff) and fewer on DOT (Hayes, Avid, others I might have missed) and both seem to do the job.

So indeed, I'm not so much anti-DOT but for my purposes mineral oil is just more convenient. People who want Hope-like brakes but with mineral oil probably would be happier with Trickstuff brakes.
  • 4 3
 Problem with mineral is there’s no standardised supply so you either have to make your own spec or buy from a competitor. Magura and Formula are big enough to do this (and I guess Trickstuff are obsessive enough) but Hope have probably figured it’s simply not important enough to bother. Dot is Dot, it’s already made to strict standards and you can buy it anywhere.
  • 3 0
 @wingguy: what about all those racing fluids ....people will shit when they discover theres even fancy dot fluids at 50-80 quid a bottle, dare they go that far that is the quation
  • 1 0
 How about shops a bit like shigura then just swap the seals in the caliper
  • 3 1
 @wingguy: Yeah, that's an argument for the manufacturer or from the consumer. From a manufacturer point of view I get it. A supplier can change the formula without prior notice so you may deliver a product to the customer in a configuration you have not tested. For example Magura is very strict about this. They only give you the warranty if you use their parts exclusively (their oil, hoses, rotors, pads). Which makes sense in a way. After all, they can kinda safely assume Goodridge hoses wouldn't make their brakes any worse, but if they haven't tested that modification they can't give you guarantees. So something similar goes with the oil. Trickstuff claims their Bionol is superior and can safely be used in other mineral oil brakes, but it is up to the customer to trust them on that. Now of course Hope isn't that German so they don't mind using third party components like Goodridge brake hoses. They could go with (one of the many types of) standardized DOT fluids, but they could go with Bionol too if they trust Trickstuff as much as they trust Goodridge. Of course Hope has been making hydraulic disc brakes well before Trickstuff has so it would imply quite a transition (and the risk that an uninformed customer would mix these up), though Formula for instance has made that transition.

From the consumer point of view, I've heard that argument more often but I don't quite get it. Usually I just bring a small disc brake service kit when I'm on a trip (or even a spare set of brakes on a longer trip). As usually you don't just need oil when you urgently need to bleed your brakes away from home, but also the connectors etc. So yeah, if I'm bringing all that I could just as well bring a tiny bottle of oil for my brakes.

Look, in this discussion I'm not against Hope using DOT fluid. Just merely countering some reasons why mineral oil wouldn't be a good idea. I never had issues with it, it's being used in top level mtb competition as well as some crazy MacAskill moves. At the end of the day, you need to be able to trust your brakes. If you can't, for real or nonsense reasons, then they just won't work for you. Be it on the hill or in the workshop. If it are the brakes that are scaring you, get other brakes.
  • 3 0
 @woofer2609: As long as you don't allow the reservoir to go empty no air will get into the system. I have a bottle that sits upside down on top of the reservoir and fills the reservoir as it bleeds down.
  • 3 0
 @vinay: Your argument is fair and I agree with your points. My initial response was to @vp27 suggesting that having the reservoir open while bleeding is an issue when it really isn't.
  • 3 0
 @Mac1987: pick a dick fluid and be a brake about it.
  • 1 0
 @yonyon1231: I feel there is a great pun involving Dick Pound and fluid somewhere...
  • 2 2
 @Mac1987: are we still pretending there are viable alternatives to dot oil? Just take care and don’t get fluid on something it’s going to damage. You don’t make a product worse just incase someone stains some anodising.
  • 1 2
 @vinay: dot has a higher boiling point, each different brand of mineral oil has a different boiling point some get close to dot some are significantly lower. Main issue with mineral oil is it absorbs moisture and that moisture sinks to the calliper where all the heat is and it degrades a lot faster than dot oil so needs flushing out all the time. Just take care when bleeding dot brakes and you probably won’t have to do it again for another year at least. Non of this really effects World Cup racers who ride a fresh bleed before every session at a race though, so mineral oil is fine for them.
  • 1 0
 @thenotoriousmic: I think the boiling point for Bionol is pretty high, that for Magura Royal Blood is only slightly above that of water. There are different ways to look at that. One could say a higher boiling point is better. I'd say if the brake is designed to work well with low boiling point fluids then it won't get much worse when there happens to be a little bit of water in the caliper. In case of Shimano, if their brakes are designed to work well with oil of their higher boiling point then a little bit of water inside the caliper will have a bigger effect. Most issues of vapor lock I've heard were with Shimano brakes, rarely with Magura. As for WC racers, I'd say it aren't them who are most likely to cook their brakes. A scared amateur descending the same hill constantly dragging brakes is more likely to overheat them. But a full bleed, every session. Like every day or ever WC stop? I suppose it may be the latter but I suppose that would help those with DOT brakes too.

Not sure whether it is a typo in your post though. From my understanding it is DOT which absorbs the moisture and degrades whereas exactly because mineral oil doesn't absorb the moisture, it allows the water to pool in the caliper.
  • 1 0
 @thenotoriousmic: how is Shimano mineral oil (the most used mineral oil) objectively worse than DOT in a MTB application? The higher boiling point of DOT 5.1 is only when new (dry boiling point of 270 degrees Celsius) and is lowered considerably after absorbing moisture (wet boiling point of 190 degrees Celsius). I've also never heard people boiling the mineral oil in their Shimano brakes, with a boiling point of 280 degrees Celsius.
  • 2 0
 @Mac1987: This may be a helpful article for those who like to use boiling point as an argument in this discussion.

epicbleedsolutions.com/blogs/articles/dot-brake-fluid-vs-mineral-oil

I'd say what's important is that the brake is designed to perform under the foreseeable conditions. If a DOT4 brake (Hayes?) is designed to also stay below 140degC (wet boiling point) when used hard then you'll be fine. In my previous post I used Magura as an example. If the brake is designed to work under demanding condition with a fluid that boils at 120degC, ingression of water with a boiling point of 100degC won't hurt much under normal operating conditions. If Shimano merely designs their brakes to stay below 280degC (which is what their oil boils at) then you'll have issues when water pools in the caliper.

See, I think there could be two reasons for a brake bleed. One is there could be water in the system. In case of mineral oil it is in the caliper, in case of DOT it is in the entire system. You'll notice this when you reach the boiling point and get a vapor lock. The other is that there is air in the system, which makes it feel inconsistent and spongy. You'll notice this at any temperature and obviously a reason to bleed the brake (or chase the air to the reservoir and then top up the reservoir). But these still are two different things. Air in the system (at low temperature) isn't more likely with one oil type than with the other. Lower boiling point (water or degraded DOT) is something you'll notice when you least want it. But when you want to fix it, in case of mineral oil you can catch it in a syringe whereas in case of DOT you really need to replace all oil.
  • 2 1
 @Mac1987: sorry I can’t take you seriously if you’re championing shimano mineral oil. I last bled my xt’s just after Christmas. They’re ready to be bled again mainly because the brake fluid has degraded from heat and moisture. When I flush that two and half month fluid out it’s not going to be red, it’s going to be grey and milky. Meanwhile my srams haven’t been bled in three years and still work faultlessly and I can guarantee that dot fluid will still be golden, clear and moisture free. Just like your car which uses dot fluid. You never bleed your car brakes, you just top it up when required.

Just take care when bleeding your brakes. Don’t leave dot oil on something it will mark. I’d rather that then having to constantly replace the fluid in my brakes.
  • 1 0
 @Mac1987: i dont know about theoretic spec sheets, and how they translate to real world.. but shimano brakes that i used (deore, zee, xt, xtr) required some sort of bleed , even if it is lever bleed only, every 2-3 months of use… and absolutely EVERY time the oil had some form of black discolouration.. either from contamination or degradation, idk..

all dot brakes i used required a bleed once in 3 years (didnt really require, but i did anyway) and fluid was always clear.. maybe it is just that shimano sucks consistently, idk.. probably trickstuff mineral works fine, but is it really relevant for 99,9% people?
  • 22 6
 Nice calipers just a shame about the levers!!
  • 2 0
 you can 100% use the current Tech 3 if you like
  • 12 1
 For those wondering how big the new lever is on the Tech 4 to the Tech 3 I've but together a comparison photo here - as I was interested to see how massive it was.

Finds out, not the much it seems.

www.pinkbike.com/photo/22147870
  • 14 0
 Perhaps a better comparison if aligned to the pivot point: www.pinkbike.com/photo/22147923
  • 2 0
 @elliott-20: ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb22159005/p4pb22159005.jpg

Another comparison picture of the tech 3 and 4 side by side
  • 11 0
 Come on Pinkbike, I want to know how much the weigh without fluid so I can decide whether it is worth the risk to shave some grams
  • 3 0
 You're experimenting with pneumatic brakes?
  • 10 0
 after a nice exchange of E-Mails with hope they claim a 20% increase of power from lever design.
The other 10% are claimed to come from the Pad-mixture.
  • 4 1
 “Owners of tech 3 version rush to buy these special pads”
  • 4 1
 @Pyres: Just buy trickstuff power+ brake pads and that's it.
  • 1 0
 @tneirolz: or MTX Gold Labels
  • 1 0
 When I was looking for some trickstuff power + pad (after reading in a brake review that it made a big difference on a Sram Guide) but didn't find any available for my E4, I found something else.... Galfer were also making different power pads and guess what, they are making the OEM ones for Hope. So last year I was already riding with those green pads on my old Tech 3 E4 brakes! Wink I could see the little difference so now I am always buying those. A bit more expensive than the OEM red one but still sooo cheap vs Shimano and all the other ones so doesn't bother me at all!
  • 1 0
 @Timo82: the trick stuff power pads are a completely different brake pad to anything else. It’s performance is way beyond anything else but wouldn’t last a day at a bike park. Get some to experience it yourself but they’re for racing really.
  • 1 0
 @thenotoriousmic: Okay so not good for me but if I find some I'm gonna try it for sure! I already have the green performance from Galfer but would still be interrested to see if there's a difference. Smile Galfer are cheap and last a long time!
  • 2 0
 @Timo82: definitely treat yourself to some just to experience how good they are. Unreal levels of power and modulation. Didn’t fade even when you could smell them burning.
  • 10 2
 Annoyed about having only silver with tints instead of the straight colours
  • 34 3
 Then just appreciate how good life is if silver tints on bicycle brake levers annoys you!
  • 9 0
 I think these look better, the fully anodised tech 3s are a bit too much
  • 1 0
 So long as they still have the callipers fully anodised, I will be in the market.
  • 1 0
 Yeah that's why I was hesitating a bit but finally more than happy to just keep my fully purple tech 3 E4! Already running with the Galfer green pads so enough power for me and probably not a big difference with the tech 4 then. Smile

@Afterschoolsports: Calipers silver or black.
  • 2 0
 @Davec85: But you could buy the silver or black ones and even add some colors to do exactly the same as the new ones. lol
  • 10 1
 dang! them levers look like they belong on a dirt bike!
  • 9 2
 My wife just sighed and said “Why can’t men be hung like a hope lever?”
Thanks hope……
  • 3 1
 @crazy9: Did you tell her to go do some market research then?
  • 8 0
 @crazy9: . she likes it long and thin
  • 8 1
 Will the new pistons fit the old callipers? That would be nice but maybe too HOPEful…
  • 1 0
 @gebs: I’ve had a reply from hope, the new pistons are compatible with older E4/V4s
  • 1 0
 Awesome news, thank you @RyMart96:
  • 4 0
 FYI I asked hope and you need new direct mount adaptors for these, which can be ordered with the brakes Mine are hopefully due sometime this month! Interesting to see they come with 'racing spec' organic pads A per hate of PB reviewers!
  • 6 0
 interestingly the graphics have a kind of pin the tail on the donkey blindfolded selection process look
  • 3 15
flag naptime FL (Mar 1, 2022 at 2:03) (Below Threshold)
 No body buys hope stuff for its looks..... Performance Reliability Durability Looks... meh
  • 11 1
 @naptime: loads of bikes with full matching (for a while) anodising beg to differ.
  • 3 6
 @tomhoward379: cos hope are the only company offering colored parts.......
  • 7 1
 @naptime: which company makes as many different products as Hope? You may not, but a significant number buy them for the looks.
  • 2 5
 @tomhoward379: diety.. Spank.. etc etc. I'm referring to the original comment about brakes... I've read SO many comments about Hope brakes being ugly an industrial looking..... so carry on yawn. Time for a nap. Zzzzzzz
  • 3 3
 @naptime: Ah! That’s why you said ‘Hope stuff’ rather than ‘Hope brakes’ then?

Oh, wait…
  • 3 2
 @tomhoward379: zzzzzzzzzz
  • 3 0
 My v4’s have been the business, swapping to a bearing is a good idea, I’ve worn out 2 pivot pins in 3 years. Currently on galfer pro sintered (green) pads. The swap to organic pads seems strange - galfer was their oem manufacturer and doesn’t offer an organic pad. Apart from the power/modulation, the parts back up is top notch, no bother getting lever blades, pivot pins etc. and all the small parts are reasonably priced. You can keep a set of these going for years
  • 1 0
 I tried all variations of galfer pads except greens, and they all squeeled like fucking train brakes.. honestly half a year in, could not make them shut up, even on new rotors.. now bought a set of trickstuff pads, if they dont work then it will be the last straw
  • 2 0
 @GZMS: They can do but mine are fine, I take a maap gas torch (1000 degrees) to the rotors and the pads and get a good heat cycle into them and that works every time.
  • 3 0
 What do you mean, Galfer doesn't offer organic pads? They advocate strongly for their organics, claim they are overall better than their metallic offerings. Both on their website and when I talked to their rep.

I am currently running a set of Galfer organic pads in my Hopes. I have a set of Galfer metallics, but I haven't bothered putting them in, the organics are fine out here in the desert.
  • 1 0
 I have the Galfer pro (green) pads too. Doesn't mention the compound anywhere... I was surprised to read organic here but thought that mine were too then!? I'm pretty sure they are the same as the ones we have anyway. Razz
  • 1 0
 @GZMS: I had my first Hope brakes 2 years ago and don't really remember those being noisy (so were probably not).... but then last year I bought a new set for my new bike and went with Galfer rotors instead of Hope floating ones. It was noisy and was getting crazy with it so thought that I should buy Hope rotors as soon as they are available but wasn't even sure it would resolve the problem...

Pads, rotors, both...?!
  • 1 0
 @GZMS: babe, jusst get Koolstop. They are rather silent and throw you over the bar.
  • 7 1
 Hope they are as good as they look
  • 2 1
 boom
  • 4 0
 Everytime I see Prices announced and compared; I feel as European completely screwed
175 GBP = 210 € and 175 BGP = 234 Usd
  • 5 0
 Tax man, EU and US shows it differently, 220€ including tax, 220$ excluding tax, and you know brexit bla bla bla....
  • 3 0
 Funny that, we are seeing increases on pretty much everything coming into the UK from Europe too so I would say swings and roundabouts.
  • 9 9
 Well simply stop giving your money to the Brits, they wanted to go play on their own, leave them do that. Better support companies from fellow European members, Formula does amazing brakes in Italy, Magura and Trickstuff from Germany.
  • 13 3
 @Balgaroth: Only 37.44% of the electorate (equating 26.52% of the whole population) voted to leave the EU, so please don't tar us all with the same brush.
  • 3 0
 @Balgaroth:
I didn't.
  • 5 4
 @ashfordakers: Well if you didn't go vote you agreed by not choosing and not bothering to vote. Additionally, if 74% of the population were actually against it and missed the opportunity to get heard because they didn't bother leaving their houses to put a ballot to remain in EU, they could have had a second chance by protesting, 74% of the population protesting in the street is a very effective way to change things, we change shit in France with way less than that in the streets. Silence is consent and so it seems that UK population did exactly that ...
  • 10 4
 They look like blinged up old Deores.
  • 3 0
 LOVE these levers, I've struggled for years with the tiny levers on Shimano. SRAM Code RSCs are the standard for me so far. Magura 2 finger levers used as 1 lever are great too.
  • 2 0
 **Please Note**
The V4 caliper is not compatible with all direct mount 180mm forks due to the large piston design and variation in mount positions. We recommend running the V4 caliper with the correct mount and a 200mm rotor in this application.
The V4 caliper is also not compatible with the 2021 Commencal Supreme DH frame 200mm Direct Postmount
  • 1 0
 3 years back I added E4 on my enduro bike. They looked awesome and they were really well made products, probably only topped by trickstuff. First shorter runs at home were ok. Then we went shuttling 3 days in finale ligure with our enduro race club: the E4 was so weak that i woke up during the night because of sour arm muscles. I immediately sold the Hopes afterwards and switched to the bleedy-intensive shimano XTRs. Never had armpump again since. Seems HOPE adressed the weakness, but i doupt the 30% on the E4 are sufficient for proper enduro riding in alpine terrain. For enduro riders i would therefore recommend the V4.
  • 4 0
 I had to scroll back up and check the author to determine if my brakes were on the wrong side or not.
  • 2 1
 I really like my Hope Tech 3's but they really let me down at the DH park last season. I'm a heavy rider and overheated them so bad that they would lock on and I'd have to bleed + pry the piston back into the caliper. I know I could probably rebuild them and it might help a bit, but I'm gonna try Hayes Dominion A4s this season and see how that goes.
  • 1 0
 amazing choice dominons are amazing
  • 6 6
 Hope they are more powerful than the current offering because I get more braking power blowing forward. I have e4’s and they are terrible. About half the grunt of my previous 2 pot XT’s with wondering bite point. Changed pads, bled, bigger rotors all to no avail. Really disappointed in them
  • 3 0
 Is your Hope bite point wandering, or was it the XTs? If it's the Hopes, wandering means there is air in the line and they need to be bled.
  • 1 0
 Big rotors and green galfer pads?

I hated so much my Shimano Saint and wanted a lot more modulation so that's really my kind of brakes but not the same for everybody....
  • 2 0
 For a company so invested in anodizing and color-matching, that massive white 4 on every color combination really baffles me. So much is going on, and not in a good way.
  • 1 0
 Funny how everyone seems to know how long the new levers are just from one picture without any measurements taken ... remember guys, just because you think it is 8", doesn´t mean it is!
  • 3 1
 Still haven't got a hand of the hook shape levers every other brand makes these days. Much comfier and assured grip
  • 5 0
 To be fair I've had hope v4's for year and used them in the alps and plenty of DH riding/racing and never found it a problem, I've never even thought about it. Have you found it to be a big issue?
  • 1 0
 They have made a lever that’s more curved for Joe Barnes if you go watch his bike check (was posted on here the other day) hopefully they clock on to this and make it available.
  • 2 0
 @Biologybossman: It was OK when using it, not necessarily a problem, but once I switched to other brands I reaslied how much better a nice hooked end on a lever was.
  • 3 0
 Deja vu.. havent we seen the launch article a month ago or so?
  • 1 0
 We did… apart from they have added info about the calliper updates this time
  • 1 0
 We didn't. The article a month ago was about the details a shop already listed for the Tech4. As far as I know this is the first official statement from hope regarding Tech4.
  • 4 3
 FYI, this is what prototype spy shots are for. To ensure you don't go to market with foot long lever blades and tank your product launch.
  • 3 0
 Look like motorcycle brakes.
  • 4 3
 The Orange/Hope fanboys are gonna be in denial about how bad those levers look
  • 7 5
 let's hope these ones do brake
  • 3 2
 But, but modulation...
  • 2 2
 @korev: but, but trees are still coming towards you faster and you ain't slowing down
  • 3 1
 V4s are fine for my 90kg geared weight on 29" wheels and 203mm rotors. I don't have typical office hands, though.
  • 2 0
 Tech3 V4s that is.
  • 2 0
 @Muckal: brakes are quite personal, like many other things if not all, although, numbers are numbers and given x force on the lever, all hope brakes are quite sub par compared to other enduro dh brakes such as saints, mt7, dhr evo and so on. Some like them, some not, i'm one of those that rather have too much power than too little, saving arms for longer days in the bike park on rough stuff.
  • 3 1
 @NicolaZesty314: I'd rather have brakes that have nice modulation for wet days, are reliable and can take the impacts when things go wrong. If I need to pull a bit harder as a tradeoff I'm fine with that, never had a problem, even on the steep stuff in Morzine. I come from a MX background so armpump is not something I experience on a 5 minute descent, even though I work an office job. No hate necessary.
  • 2 0
 @Muckal: Is coming from MX a bit like a BMX Background? Wink
  • 2 0
 @korev: i lacks a B, but other than that...
  • 1 0
 Should we start a pool for the number of articles that announce the release prior to an actual review?? Smile
  • 2 0
 Bucketheads choice in brake levers!
  • 1 0
 I thought purple looked really good until I finished reading the article. By that time the purple looked ugly again.
  • 1 0
 Now that I'm older, these prices seem affordable. Problem is, I don't ride that much anymore...
  • 1 0
 I ran the Tech 3 for about 4 years. Never failed me. I’ve ridden twice on the Tech 4 V4’s now. Very impressed
  • 1 0
 Did they they copy the lever design from a 1987 Yamaha xt 350?
  • 2 1
 Did they give prices on replacement levers?
  • 2 0
 black/purple please. Wink
  • 1 0
 So theyre 20g heavier now?
  • 1 0
 Nope
  • 1 0
 Will these puns ever stop?
  • 1 0
 I Hope these will bring me to a stop when needed
  • 1 1
 these are longer than my shimano altus 2 finger levers.
guess that is where additional power comes from Big Grin
  • 1 2
 Do Hope designers use all fingers to brake with? Maybe that's where i've been going wrong.
  • 1 1
 These things are so trick, always have been from hope.
  • 3 4
 They might be bad ass, but look old and terrible.
  • 6 7
 Needs to be with Mineral oil not dot
  • 1 3
 I'll just stick with their hubs. Hard pass on the brakes, and the effort necessary with those levers.
  • 2 4
 30% more power through a lever change, should have done it years ago, probably still miles behind the competition.
  • 7 9
 Look 20 years out of date!
  • 1 3
 Why can't Hope make 1-finger levers?
  • 8 3
 Because then you wouldn’t be able to stop.
  • 4 0
 I used to be bother by companies without a 1-finger lever... then I realized you get more leverage on a longer blade and you can still use 1 finger... just move the clamp closer to the stem problem solved. Yeah your shifters and dropper levers might be a bit of reach if you are fully integrated into the brake clamp, but there are products to help solve those issues...
  • 5 2
 @iJak: "but there are products to help solve those issues..." you mean other brakes?
  • 1 0
 It is a one finger lever. Find me one example of anyone using any brake with two fingers post 1999.
  • 1 2
 #Ebike
  • 2 5
 Great modulation is hopespeak for weak brakes. A 30% improvement should bring them on par with the competition.
  • 1 4
 Probably still squeal and loose lever pressure
  • 3 0
 What do you mean lose lever pressure..? Pls more info
  • 1 0
 @GZMS: constantly need to be re bled
Below threshold threads are hidden







Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv65 0.054813
Mobile Version of Website