Revisited: The Specialized Status 140 After One Year With a Guest Editor

 "Revisited: The Specialized Status 140 After One Year With a Guest Editor" just rolls off the tongue, though, doesn't it?

 To sum it up. They built a front triangle from leftovers of the previous Enduro gen's rear triangle

 I would have gone with "The Status status"

 Seems like a Status Update to me.

 Status’ status

 Status Quo?

 @gearbo-x: Thats what the people wanted tho .....

 Sounds like a Status report to me... Could have been a series of them..

 The Status status report is officially approved by the ADBAA (American Dodge Ball Association of America)

 I also feel that the incognito editor could have been referred to as a statustician

 Tragedy indeed. Back in 2020 when the Status started popping up on social media, the project went dark momentarily. So, we started asking our region rep this, but in question form. A small laugh in a dark time...

 I was thinking the same thing. “Oh the code Rs have sticky pistons, let’s just replace both with Magura and follow service intervals for all components”. Did they even consider not servicing and just complaining and riding it as is? Try to re-lube the pistons a couple times and accidentally having the pistons pop out and oil run free like me? SMH my head.

 do you have a link on how to retrofit an NX deraileur with GX parts? Thanks

 Pinkbike has for a long time been at the heart of a deep state conspiracy to replace climb switches with extra shock-mounted bottle cages

 Had a similar thought reading "slack head tube angle..makes the Status feel pretty sluggish on the flats"
Ummm flats? why? where? who cares?

 @addisonchen:
m.youtube.com/watch?v=mcnpBxeb4Nw

Here is a link from a guy replacing his with a XO kit, but they are all compatible with each other, really the XO kit is like 25 bucks, so probably with the extra ten, a lot cheaper than a whole XT set up.

The same guy has a video showing how he upgraded just the washer for 1 dollar and solved the problem too.

Also, right now the NX b bolt kit can be found for $5 USD, making it a rather cheap service cost if people would rather just go that route.

I have 3 bikes now with NX derailures and don’t have any issues with them after upgrading B bolt kits.

 In my experience NX rear mechs are in no way up to hard riding

play in the pivots has them shifting all over the place pretty rapidly, SRAM warranty is good (if slow) better off replacing with Deore/SLX/XT - which is night & day better in terms of durability- straight away and selling the NX stuff whilst still pristine

lifes too short to have to keep fettling with sticky pistons

 Sram brakes are junk and need to be swapped out, regardless of whether they're having issues or not.

 `I and others gave up screwing around with SRAM brakes after the sticky piston saga. I even tried a rebuild with new pistons. Sometimes it comes down to requiring a functioning bike repaired using available parts, rather than waiting around for small parts to repair the brakes and derailleur. I've found myself in the former camp. Rather be riding. Turns out I've found parts i enjoy more than what I replaced.

 I had a Status for a while until the rear tire went flat after sitting for a week. I promptly threw it in the ocean and picked up new Yeti. Problem solved and I couldn’t be happier!

 @dpars63, to be clear, this isn't a typical review from a Pinkbike editor - it's based on the experiences from someone who was loaned the bike for a year and then relayed their experience to Matt.

You're right, there are lots of ways to go about solving the issues described here; this is just one rider's methodology. Thanks for adding in your tips - that NX upgrade is a good one, and I agree, servicing rather than replacing the brakes would have been an effective and less expensive option.

 @Kimbers: Personal opinion, I think that's totally fine. Spend your money on the things you would rather spend less time on.

My point was more around the idea that a bike that is currently selling new for $2250 "needs" 30-40% additional cost seems like a bias review, or at least out of touch. Yeah, I spend money so I dont need to spend time on things, but for someone who wants a "cheaper" full suspension bike it seems like a miss to not call out the problems experienced could have been also solved for under $40.

 @Kimbers: I have snapped 3 XT derailleurs last year only though. Sram RD's (at least GX and up, no experience here with NX or SX) take much more abuse.

 @mikekazimer: I totally understand that, and to be clear I have no issues with upgrading parts. Over the years I have spent plenty on upgrades myself. I will say one of the things I find challenging with this review and others is a lack of justification being mentioned.

For example, replacing the drivetrain is fine, but why XT? was it the rider had it in their garage? or they got a discount? why not SLX or Deore?

 @dpars63 : When you include the comment thread--and who doesn't include the comment thread when talking about a Pinkbike article?--this article kind of does what you want. Though I like your idea of the Pinkbike editors adding a few comments into the original article on alternative fixes.

I'd definitely read another article with good/normal rider long-term testing an affordable bike.

 @skimtb1: tell me you’ve never used them without telling me.

 @n734535:

I almost seems as though "Big Water" is running and hijacking the bicycle industry deep within the industry.

F#$k you H2O

 @nickfranko: He’s like the loam guy. Will take every opportunity to fight that fight until his dying breath. I think I saw the same comment on another article already today.

 Love it! This should have been a tech article about this genius NX hack

 Replace the whole drivetrain with Microshift Advent X for $180, it's better anyways.

 @nickfranko:

Oh I've used em. Then I took them off. And put some Saints on.

 @tomfoolerybackground:

Heaven forbid someone say stupid shit and goad idiots into inane arguments in the PB comments section!

 @dpars63: I replaced the b-bolts on 3 bikes but than found that Shimano just shifts better in general and much more consistent if it gets gritty.

 @chrsei: My only real experience with Shimano in the past 10 years has been with Deore 12s. Personal opinion: I did like it more than NX, specifically because it felt like there was less play in the shift lever. That being said specking a bike with microspline is probably still more expensive than a HG body, and everyone wants 12s these days, so NX tends to be the choice for a lot of bikes in this price point. While it may feel like it shifts "better" there is a high cost to replace the whole drivetrain and potentially the driver (although sram 12 speed cassettes do work with shimano derailures). If Specialized starts putting on Deore that would be great, but assuming they stick with NX the replacement bolt seems like a very cost effective option.

 @dpars63: derailleur

 @thenotoriousmic: I've had one new deore chain snap, but other than that, I far prefer deore even over gx. I had better shifting on 3 different setups of deore than I ever had with brand new GX. Currently on an old slx derailleur(even slightly bent still shifts well), xt chain, xt cassette, and slx crankset. IMO full deore setup with an xt chain is money.

 @YukonMog: Someday I will learn how to spell, but today is most likely not that day.

 @dpars63: I wouldnt buy another shimano microspline cassette as the aluminium retaining lockring is rubbish. I have had one come lose and destroyed a derailleur. One of my mates has just winter serviced a bike and he has found swarf in his hub from the thread stripping also. It looks like a sleeping problem. microspline owners beware!

 @Grimtim2020: interesting, at how many miles did the threads strip? I don't think my cassette has ever come loose?

 @Grimtim2020: the lock ring that holds the cassette in place? If tightened to 40nm per the spec that should never happen. Doesn't matter if its aluminum or steel. Either whoever assembled your bike made an error, or you got a really defective part.

Or are you saying the threads in the body stripped out? that also sounds like a serious defect, but a little different because hub manufactures make their own bodies, it's not necessarily a Shimano issue.

 @mikekazimer: Why is her identity a secret?

 @skimtb1: Oh that wasn’t an insult. While I disagree with both of you, I respect the principled devotion to the cause.

 @mikekazimer: PB should do an article on how to do this upgrade on Sram derailleurs. I'd never heard of it until now and it seems like a pretty great cheap upgrade. Getting it onto PB could make accessing the info on how to do it much easier. Also, this long term review update thing is great. It is very relevant to the typical rider's experience and sees like it could be really helpful consumer advice.

 @Grimtim2020: if it’s any consolation karma has totally done me over today when pinkbike provided evidence of 6 bolt failing after all the shit I’ve talked about centrelock and then corrected itself when that reminded me to tighten my rear centrelock rotor as it had coke lose again and the threads tore straight out of my hub.

 @skimtb1: saints belong in a museum. Hopefully the update comes out soon.

 The answer to your question is not flattering to the guest editor/contributer.

 @taskmgr:

They may belong in a museum, but they still work like a hot damn!

 @WheelNut:

Impossible. That would undermine their market position as #1 SRAM nutswinger

 @dpars63: In my experience, xo kit is way to go. Gx-bolt is a bit loose too. I have replaced my gx derailleurs bolt with a xo bolt.
And yes, you can also try this cheap washer hack youtu.be/IChC4h8WDkA

 @addisonchen:
You don't even need to do that. Just replace the orginal NX O-ring with a thicker O-ring.
Very cheap and it makes the B-bolt very stiff too

 @Kimbers:
As a shop mechanic I see completely worn out Shimano 12 speed mech all the time.
They get sloppy litteraly everywhere. From the B-Bolt to the cage up to every single pivot.
Even the XTR mechs.
Deore is the worst with sometimes 10 to 20mm side play in the whole mech. But the good thing is that even with this massive amount of play they still shift kinda ok.
But the quality of the new shimano stuff is a joke compared to the old 11 speed

 @OneTrustMan: there’s loads of flex and play in brand new deore and slx mechs. After a few months of being rattled around on the back of a swing arm they’re flapping in the wind.

 @WheelNut: That would require PB publicly admitting that SRAM NX der are flawed to start with and that won't sit well with the marketing peeps of either PB or SRAM...

 @taskmgr: "saints belong in a museum. Hopefully the update comes out soon."

Yet still somehow better than most of the new stuff? Admittedly the brakes have aged, but the rest is bomb proof.

 @JAK79: With all the budget SRAM derailleur hacks on here, it almost looks like SRAM purposefully doesn't make their lower spec range shift as well as it could?

 @OneTrustMan: the 11sp XTR parallelogram pivots wear pretty quickly too. 5 months of sporadic riding, no mud.

 @taskmgr: they did. They are called Hayes Dominions.

 @nickfranko: saints and MT7’s are vastly superior to any sram brake. It’s not even worthy of discussion, so I can see why people are so defensive of sram brakes. People are dismissive of sram brakes because it’s fully deserved lol

 @dpars63: idk, i didnt read it as that it "needed" the parts. It seems like this person isnt a full time bike reviewer, if theyre a normal rider like the rest of us, sometimes we take those excuses to put on the parts we want to ride.

 @dpars63: SRAM pricing is an affront to all cyclists!

NX derailleur MSRP: $115.
XT derailleur MSRP: $119.
GX derailleur MSRP: $135

which would you choose if the NX was not serviceable and needed replaced?

 @skyroach: I wouldn't pick any of those, but if the NX mech was serviceable I would pay the 10 bucks and save for something else. If the thing is truly busted then it's a whole different conversation.

Honestly fancy drivetrains do less for me than fancy tires. Ill service the cheap derailleur and buy a new set of tires anytime that's an option. It's crazy to me how many people dont replace cages and jockey wheels, even though every manufacture sells them as consumables.

 @skyroach: I’ve got a GX mech from 2017 still going strong on my sons hardtail. That extra $20 really pays dividends in the long run.

 @dpars63: in my experience derailluer failures are usually catastrophic - the last one i broke the entire cage snapped off the body and was not repairable. thankfully it was a shimano deore 12 speed and only cost $60 to replace.

i will keep in mind a cage/pulley replacement in the future though, great idea!

 @dpars63: @dpars63: in my experience derailluer failures are usually catastrophic - the last one i broke the entire cage snapped off the body and was not repairable. thankfully it was a shimano deore 12 speed and only cost $60 to replace.

i will keep in mind a cage/pulley replacement in the future though, great idea!

 @n734535:

 got the 160 and its best bike ive owned. ridden a plethora of carbon enduro / freeride rigs (Spartan HP, Slayer, Process X) and this one takes the cake. Specialized defs has their suspension system mega dialed.

 @OwenKartusch: I was debating the Status 160 over the current Slayer, and I went Status because it was a thousand bucks cheaper

Status is a good bike but it has not blown me away. I feel generous to give it an 8 out of 10 rating. My only real issue with it is the balance of the bike feels off in the S5 size, but it’s a big issue for me. I probably should have went S4, but I’m 188cm and the S4 felt cramped in the parking lot test

I much prefer the modern Commencal Meta AM or Spesh Enduro, in terms of ride experience.

 @BeaverCreaker: I'm on an S3, and the chainstay is just perfect for my height. Yah, if I have friends looking at the status, I wouldn't recommend anything bigger than an S3, else get another bike.

 @BeaverCreaker: I'm very keen to pull the trigger on a 160 s5, but am having reservations because of the crazy short rear end. I actually really like the feeling of a shorter rear end, but haven't been on one shorter than 435 (on an XL- I'm also 188cm) since my Kona Honzo hardtail in 2017, but that was such a different beast I'm not sure it's worth comparing.

The Modern Meta AM also has a pretty extreme front-end to rear-end length ratio, but you feel the 7mm shorter stays on the Status spoils the fun? I was kind hoping the Status's very low BB would somehow help keeping it form feeling too squirrely... and that the 426 stays would offer all the thing I like about short stays (throwing rear end around in tight terrain, keeping the front nice and playful, and keeping overall wheelbase in check even while allowing for a nice big reach and slack HT for the steep and fast stuff) while hopefully not going too far (basically just making the front end too vague and/ or forcing you "off the back" all the damn time).

Thoughts? Specifically: Do you think the imbalance makes it hard to have fun on the bike, or just lowers top speeds in the chunk?

I don't think the s4 would be a good option for me because the stack is too low, and I've found that for my riding style having a really high front end makes a huge difference in being able to push the front wheel that too-low stack really exacerbates weight distribution issues with short rear centers.

 @RileyMarmesh: I am so picky, it's still a great bike. 8 of 10 is still good. It's surprising because it's better at what I expected it to be worse at (chunk), and worse at what I bought it for (jumping). I'll explain but first, I should do it some justice. I've had so many bikes the past 10 years, I only keep what's "perfect" feeling for me. For the price this bike is unbeatable. I just got a job though, so I put mine up for sale in search of that "10 out of 10" bike for me.

The S5 geometry and suspension (fork and rear end) is really good in chunk for me. That's where I enjoy this bike the most, and this is what has me debating keeping it (also it's such a cheap backup bike that's pretty darn good). I don't feel the back end being to short at all here, it feels great.

I have played around with different set ups, and my favorite is the low bb setting, with stack raised all the way up. It feels really good in steeper sections and bashing through rocks.

Where I am having an issue with this bike is drops, jumping and cornering. I feel the balance is off with short chain stays in hard corners. I have to guess where to distribute my weight a bit depending on the tightness and speed of each specific corner and it doesn't feel very "natural". That's the only issue with the chain stays I have I believe. I usually love short chainstays, but I have never paired them with these monster 515mm reach bikes we have today.. I find this bike very hard to manual, which tells me I'm on the wrong size and balance is just way off, doesn't matter how short the cs gets.

I am having a balance issue where the bike feels top heavy on larger jumps and drops, and it's getting this slight twitch mid air that has me feeling scared I'm going to eat crap every big jump. Enduro-MTB mentions it in their review. This review here of the 140 also mentions it somewhat, how the Status is better for smooth flow and smaller jump lines. I feel like that translates to the 160 as well, and I feel like this frame is best suited towards the "aggressive trail" side of mountain biking. For me anyways..There are plenty who will disagree with me and that's fine.

Meta AM is a much beefier bike, like a true enduro race bike. The thickness of the metal on the bike and welds just feel bulkier. Jumping it, the bike is very steadfast mid-air like a downhill bike. You can land a little sideways and the overall bike just handles it better than the Status. Specialized Enduro feels like this too. I prefer this big steadfast feeling, and they don't pedal any worse than the Status, if anything they are better (Enduro) or just as good(Meta AM).

The 2021 Meta AM I had was a size Large. At 188cm I always feel in between sizes, and I usually size down to L instead of XL. When I rode the S4 Status (basically a Large), the bike felt short in terms of "height", which I didn't like as much but looking back it's probably a lot better for jumping although worse for going uphill all day. The Large Meta AM felt perfect for me with 495mm reach and 430 chainstays, and this is all basically an experiment for me on how long I can go on each of these measurements with the new bikes with modern geo.

 @BeaverCreaker: Thanks for the reply! I'm on a xl Canyon Spectral 29 right now and in reality it is probably perfect for me... but I'm very curious about mullet and kinda had a fantasy going that switching to a Status 160 would make my local STEEP but pretty buff local trails and jump lines more fun.

Maybe I'll just work on feeling contentment with what I already have... which I need to practice LOL

 @RileyMarmesh: I've felt more confident on jump lines on other bikes of all types, trail and downhill. I cannot quite put my finger on what's making this feeling on jumps for me, but it's bothering my mind.

 @BeaverCreaker: first job in 10 years ? I look forward to your review.

 @BeaverCreaker: riding S3 being 189cm. Love it. Wanted something where I can get the frontwheel up easily and this size felt best. Tried S4 and S5 in front of the shop. Rolled the bars a bit forward to increase "reach" a wee bit.
Swapped the cassette for a sweet Garbaruk, got a GX derailleur (two broken NX), and had to change the fork for a RockShox Lyrik Ultimate because the Rhythm broke in the lowers (the connecting arc)

 count me in too if they want thoughts on how they ride on mellow midwest blues and blacks. "My biggest climb of the day was ahead of me, a 5 percent grade for 5 minutes. I had to lockout the shock to save my energy."

 Yeah, none of these comments can be taken too seriously without knowing what she's used to. Is her only comparison a 27.5 Remedy, or has she ridden other 140mm mullets?

 @bishopsmike: another clue is that she knows what it’s like to ride a spaceship around steep, tight corners.

 @idecic: #reptiliansareamongus

 @idecic: Has to be Ferro, the dropship pilot in Aliens. I will admit to needing google to remember her name.. that also led me to finding this in a props auction which will make a fine replacement for my current lid propstoreauction.com/lot-details/index/catalog/319/lot/88713

 @idecic: Uhura!

 Some CODE R were actually recalled because of the sticking, mine were, so that’s something to consider too.

 The issue is actually that the pistons swell a tiny bit over time, so if they are a relatively tight fit to begin with, they become a press fit. The fix (if you don't just warranty them) is to replace the pistons. It's ~$20 for the parts to fully rebuild a lever. It takes ~10 minutes for the rebuild plus the time to do a bleed. I have had it happen on 2 out of 11 Code brakes that I've owned. It happened after a year or so, and they've made it ~2 years since the rebuild with no issues. Funny enough, SRAM actually refused to warranty them because they weren't from one of the batches that they already knew had the issue.

 It’s the master cylinder piston not the pistons in the caliper - can’t just clean them. Can warranty them, I warrantied a set and had new levers in under a week a couple years back. I would think that the recalled ones wouldn’t be on a newer bike like this though

 @skimtb1: What a ridiculous statement. With due respect Code RSC's are perfectly good brake - and this is coming from an absolute brake snob (Trickstuffs or bust!). I'm a heavy and fast rider with long 10-15 minute descents on my daily rides. I've ridden 3 different bikes that came with Code RSCs and each set performed well and didn't need to be bled more than once a season (or less).

If you want a little science to back this up: Enduro MTB does a comprehensive analysis (power, stopping time from different speeds, etc.) for like 20+ brakes each year. Low and behold: Sram Code RSCs perform perfectly well, producing about 71 Nm of torque and performing in the top 25% of bikes in terms of stopping performance for both 30-15 kph and 45-0 kph. They are comparing directly with brands like Hope, Magura, Trickstuff, Shimano, TRP, etc.

 Yeah they misused the term "piston". They're talking about the master cylinder in the lever, not the pistons in the caliper.

 @skimtb1: Thank you for sharing the article. To quote from the article that you cited, directly:

"Overall the Code RSCs are a solid, dependable brake with great spare parts availability and relatively linear power delivery that’s likely to appeal to folks who find certain brakes to be too “on / off” and tricky to modulate. Their outright power is well short of the biggest, strongest brakes here but especially with 200+ mm rotors, it’ll be enough for a lot of folks on a lot of bikes, and there’s plenty to like about them otherwise."

So, like, exactly what I said above. They come in at about the 45-50th percentile in terms of outright power, but because of the modulation they are quite good at actually stopping riders. Hence, they are perfectly fine brakes. Hell - you can easily throw on better pads or upgrade to 200 or 220mm rotors for $120 and you'll be in great shape.

Again, this is coming from a guy who rides Trickstuff Maximas. Do Codes compare favorably? No. But they are certainly fine brakes for 99% of riders.

 @skimtb1: I hear you. But you're wrong. There are plenty of very fast riders sporting Codes. When it comes to actually delivering the power to the rotor, Codes will outperform Shimano XT's in both 30-15 and 45-0 km/h timed testing, and outperform Saints by 0.3 seconds in the 45-0 test. Similarly, they produce nearly identical torque (about 71 Nm) to Hope T3 E4 and V4s, and they outperform both of those brakes in both 30-15 and 45-0 stopping performance. That said, it does appear that Magura MT7 and MT5 were all around better, producing more torque (90-99 Nm) and stopping/slowing bikes more quickly. The absolute best brakes remain the Trickstuff Direttissima (now Maximas), which top both braking performance timing and torque application.

Look - I've spent ample time riding bike parks, including Whistler. To say that Sram Codes are not found on "serious rider" bikes is just patently wrong. Probably 50% of professional/sponsored mountain bikers are riding Code RSCs and getting along better than you or I ever will.

 @DaneL: Several mates have removed the seals, lightly sanded the pistons, replaced the seals, and had zero problems after that.

 @yonibois: Yeah... be careful with that. If you make the fit too loose or leave a slightly rough surface, it will create a nice place for dirt/dust to get trapped, causing increased wear on the bore of the master cylinder. That's what eventually kills the master cylinders regardless, so accelerating that wear isn't great. It's definitely a good emergency fix if you can't wait for the rebuild kit, though.

 @skimtb1: Firstly, the testing I am citing was performed both in a laboratory AND on bikes, on trails, with experienced riders in repeatable conditions. You're argument is that, essentially, "codes are trash". My point is: no they are not. They produce sufficient power (about middle of the pack - which can be increased by changing pad material and rotor size if you like) and their modulation is nearer the top. The very article that you linked above summarizes the Codes as "solid, dependable brakes."

This whole "I'm cherry-picking my own preconceived notion and opinion, and equating it to an objective truth" trope is getting laughable. Hope T3, Shimano XT and Zee and TRP Quadiem all produce nearly identical power to Sram Code RSC's, and many of those offer inferior modulation performance. Frankly, most of the truly fast riders I know care primarily about modulation, since this is important to skilled and fast riders.

 @skimtb1: there’s a world of difference between the oem codes everyone gets on their overpriced completes and the RSC and up models which have been the most reliable hassle free brakes I’ve ever owned. Just stuck a new set of pads into a brake I last bled in 2019, feels perfect.

 @skimtb1: never had any overheating issues except when using Uber bike race matrix pads which would melt to the rotor. With metallic pads I never have an issue. I can get my XT’s to over heat or pump up pretty easily also on metallic pads.

 @thenotoriousmic:
Even the guide rsc are very reliable brakes.
The most reliable I ever owned.
With thick rotors, good pads and a very good bleed, they can produce an surprisingly good amount of stopping power with a super short lever throw.

The code R I had were never weak, but needed a piston mobilization once a year.

 @KJP1230: I think the outright power tests from a lab come far second behind the major issue with most brakes nowadays… how do they perform after being heated up to the temp of the sun after being dragged over all the braking bumps on a post crankworx a-line… that said I’ve always found the sram brakes work well but are just more of a pain in the ass to bleed and setup properly compared to the Shimanos

 @Onetrakcmind: Marshy bleed. Works on all brakes not just Shimano. I just use to lever syringe like a Shimano bleed cup just pull the plunger out and let gravity do its work.

youtu.be/piWBVDh1pTE

 That's a screaming deal and you won't have to replace 20% of the parts that either break or you don't jive with.

 Just checked the link, good deal, but those colors are rufff.

 @11six: yeah, kinda unfortunate. Although in my opinion, I think the green would go great with a red bomber z1. I can much prefer the light blue on the 160 option tho.

 @danielfloyd: a red z1 would be appropriate. Give me a red z1 at 160mm with the weird green frameset w/ float x for $1050, I'll pay for it right now lol.

 @baca262 It's alloy so it's easy to repaint. You can get something like this powder coasted a single color for less than $150 or do it yourself using Spraybike for even less. Personally, I've never given AF about paintjobs and I like when stuff develops a patina.

 @hellbelly: doesn't matter when every single bike is way overpriced as it is. you pay basically 100% or more over it's real production cost and it can't even have decent PAINT? gtfo

 Anodized black Banshee frames ftw.

 @matheas: lacquered carbon frames FTFAIL.

 @baca262: Only 100% upcharge? Dream on. It just so happens that I've got a pretty decent understanding what it costs these brands to have a single frame made and let me tell you, you're paying way, way more than just a 100% premium on the production cost. Especially with brands like Specialized.

 @Muscovir: everything is evident when you look up motorbike prices. a twin cylinder enduro tourer costs only 30% more than a top of the line dh bike where i'm at.

 @baca262: Idk, I don't believe you can find a bike in this category (aggressive trail/enduro as the 160mm travel one is the same cost) with a superior spec and geometry at this price. It now costs even less than when the original review came out. Additionally, at this cost a buyer should not expect top of the line spec or finish, but I think Speshy got most of this one right. I can't think of anything I'd change outta of the box. Nothing is perfect perfect, but this one is more than adequate. That said, everything is expensive and water is wet too. Kidding aside, anyone that is a smart shopper can find similar options especially in the used market if time if they are patient.

 I have one too - I saw the NX drivetrain failure coming a mile off, so I replaced the whole lot and the brakes with XT before it turned a pedal. All said and done it owes me about £2.5k (C2W scheme). Seems damn good for an XT equipped bike with 36s, and it really does ride well pointed downhill.

I will say, the shock lockout has GOT to work to get this bike up a hill. Mine was dodgy out of the box and I was so disappointed, until I sent the shock off for a warranty service. I've probably used the lockouts more on this bike than on my Nukeproof, which I owned for eight years.

The bike is also very heavy, definitely heavier than the 2014 trail bike it replaced. Not entirely surprising given the intended usage/spec/fork, and anything with this travel getting close to 30lbs probably costs twice as much.

 I have the 160. I do like the bike but I’m not in love with it. I would not call it a Superenduro bike or a freeride bike, more like a cheaper all mountain bike that works well everywhere.

I much prefer the Spesh Enduro or Commencal Meta AM for bike parks and possibly racing.

 Did you just use 'Mach' as a verb? I like that.

 I built up a 160 to save myself the trouble of replacing parts as they failed. XT groupset, Fox 36, DT Swiss EX 471 rims, Onyx hubs, Magura MT5 brakes, Renthal bars & stem, S3. It’s a pig of a climber even with the mandatory climb switch but a riot going down and durable as hell.

 I had an S3 160 and it was pretty sweet for average park and trail riding, but felt like a boat on steep junps. ended up selling it for an S2, I ditched the 29 for 27.5 up front and went 170 on the fork and it rips the DJ's sweet now. I think they kinda screwed up not making a full 27.5 option

 @luckynugget: and there in lies the beauty, it’s a great canvas for whatever

 I didn't see too many mixed reviews, most were generally positive. The negatives which crop up again and again are undeniable - everything SRAM branded on this bike is shit (alright the cranks and cassette are probably fine), and cheap wheels.

 People buy a $2200 160mm bike with a 63 degree head angle, then complain when it doesn’t climb like an XC hardtail

 Drivetrain

 You think that adds up to $3k in parts?

 @nickfranko: sorry for exaggerating
... Half the price of the bike.... My point is more that you shouldn't need to replace parts in year one or use the climb switch on a trail bike in this day and age. Not that you would do much better on a 4 or 5k bike in 2023 with all the down specs by brands so as not raise prices.

 It could also be that they had an xt drivetrain and a set of maguras on their old frame and moved everything over when the rear wheel was replaced.

 Ok, why does your beaver creak?