When we heard that a local female rider and friend of Pinkbike was left bike-less due to Covid supply chain issues, we proposed that she borrow the $3,000 USD Status (which
we reviewed back in February 2022) on a long-term deal. The trade was for a simple report: what parts broke, was maintenance costly, and how did she feel about the overall performance?
The test period was plenty thorough as the bike ventured to the Southern Hemisphere during the Canadian winter, and it was also used for bike park laps, pedally days, and everything in between.
UpgradesEntry-level components are not always the most durable. 12-speed drivetrains require precise alignment to shift well, and the SRAM NX derailleur on the Status didn’t last long. A Shimano XT derailleur and stronger North Shore Billet hanger replaced the soft stock part.
Shortly after that, the Code R brakes began to show their drawbacks. Although the Status is spec'd with two 200mm rotors, the master cylinders fell victim to a case of sticky pistons. The brakes were swapped out for Magura MT7s with their light action lever and increased power - an improvement from the stock brakes in terms of modulation and response.
The Status comes with a guide to direct the chain onto the ring, which is refreshing to see, but adding a skid plate was a useful upgrade to protect the chainring.
MaintenanceAs far as maintenance goes, the usual service intervals were made for the suspension. Both the fork and shock saw routine rebuilds. Fresh brake pads, chains, and shift housing were added when necessary. It's worth noting that there was mention of the stock SRAM NX chain wearing at a higher rate than expected. That's something I've experienced as well - higher priced chains seem to wear at a slower rate than the cheaper price point options.
After absorbing a few too many dents, the rear wheel was replaced altogether with a faster-engaging hub and stronger rim.
We didn't expect to hear any linkage issues, since all of the pivots use oversize cartridge bearings and beefy hardware with extra sealing. The original bearings still felt to be rolling smoothly.
Dents are part of the game with aluminum wheels. Keeping those spokes evenly tensioned will prolong the life of the wheel.
'Chip' happens. After a year, the paint is starting to chip easily and has lost some of its luster.
Technical ReportSpecialized has increased their tire game massively. In my eyes, they make the best valued tires out there, but our incognito tester’s opinion wasn't as much of a fan. She said, "
Tire-wise, the Butchers weren't my favourite. They're lightweight and roll fast but sacrifice a bit of robustness, which is not ideal for rough/janky trail riding around Squamish. I ended up switching out for Maxxis tires."Personally, I quite like the Butcher’s tacky T9 rubber (as do several of my colleagues), although I agree that the mid-weight casing can roll and burp easily compared to the equivalent Maxxis offering.
Ride ImpressionsHere’s what our guest editor had to say about their overall experience on the Status:
![bigquotes](https://es.pinkbike.org/246/sprt/i/bigquotes-left.svg) | The Status is fun on smooth flow trails in the bike park and is playful and fun on jumps. I felt it helped me gain confidence on jumps and gaps, but felt a bit long and was hard to stay on top of as I picked up speed around long berms. The mullet setup makes steeper descents easier for sure, but it feels like riding a spaceship when encountering steep, tight corners. The slack head tube angle also means it doesn't have much get up and go, and makes the Status feel pretty sluggish on the flats.
The geometry and the mullet setup unfortunately also make it a poor uphill companion. Locking the shock makes a night and day difference to climbing too—without lockout the pedal efficiency reduces massively due to pedal bob. Even though the build comes with a wide-range 12-speed, drivetrain, I found that with its geometry it is significantly more challenging to pedal on the climbs than my previous bike, the Trek Remedy 27.5”.
It's not going to take hard DH trails in its stride, but it’s fun and playful for everyday trail riding, loves to jump and has a great suspension for its price. |
Why do reviews on top rated sites like this neglect to call out what could have been done to resolve issues besides what they decided to do?
For example: NX derailure "needed" to be replaced, so they slapped a new XT set up on? that's a valid choice, but another valid choice would have been upgrading the B-bolt assembly to the GX version for $10 USD and that would have corrected the common "lean" issue. 100% compatible, uses a wave washer instead of rubber grommet, and includes a wider interface plate... but no, replacing the whole drive train on a budget friendly bike was clearly the only option?
Code brakes had a sticky lever, replacing the whole system again is a valid choice, but so is spending 2 hours in the garage fixing the issue.
Im not saying people shouldn't spend money on what they want, but as a bike review it comes off as these parts are junk and must be thrown away, which really inst true at all.
I'm also confused on why it comes across like using a climb switch is a bad thing. Again, I own one, I use the climb switch on any big climb I go on, but I don't have any negative feelings about that. If I wanted an efficient climber I would have bought a short travel 29er.
Ummm flats? why? where? who cares?
m.youtube.com/watch?v=mcnpBxeb4Nw
Here is a link from a guy replacing his with a XO kit, but they are all compatible with each other, really the XO kit is like 25 bucks, so probably with the extra ten, a lot cheaper than a whole XT set up.
The same guy has a video showing how he upgraded just the washer for 1 dollar and solved the problem too.
Also, right now the NX b bolt kit can be found for $5 USD, making it a rather cheap service cost if people would rather just go that route.
I have 3 bikes now with NX derailures and don’t have any issues with them after upgrading B bolt kits.
play in the pivots has them shifting all over the place pretty rapidly, SRAM warranty is good (if slow) better off replacing with Deore/SLX/XT - which is night & day better in terms of durability- straight away and selling the NX stuff whilst still pristine
lifes too short to have to keep fettling with sticky pistons
You're right, there are lots of ways to go about solving the issues described here; this is just one rider's methodology. Thanks for adding in your tips - that NX upgrade is a good one, and I agree, servicing rather than replacing the brakes would have been an effective and less expensive option.
My point was more around the idea that a bike that is currently selling new for $2250 "needs" 30-40% additional cost seems like a bias review, or at least out of touch. Yeah, I spend money so I dont need to spend time on things, but for someone who wants a "cheaper" full suspension bike it seems like a miss to not call out the problems experienced could have been also solved for under $40.
For example, replacing the drivetrain is fine, but why XT? was it the rider had it in their garage? or they got a discount? why not SLX or Deore?
I'd definitely read another article with good/normal rider long-term testing an affordable bike.
I almost seems as though "Big Water" is running and hijacking the bicycle industry deep within the industry.
F#$k you H2O
Oh I've used em. Then I took them off. And put some Saints on.
Heaven forbid someone say stupid shit and goad idiots into inane arguments in the PB comments section!
Or are you saying the threads in the body stripped out? that also sounds like a serious defect, but a little different because hub manufactures make their own bodies, it's not necessarily a Shimano issue.
They may belong in a museum, but they still work like a hot damn!
Impossible. That would undermine their market position as #1 SRAM nutswinger
And yes, you can also try this cheap washer hack youtu.be/IChC4h8WDkA
You don't even need to do that. Just replace the orginal NX O-ring with a thicker O-ring.
Very cheap and it makes the B-bolt very stiff too
As a shop mechanic I see completely worn out Shimano 12 speed mech all the time.
They get sloppy litteraly everywhere. From the B-Bolt to the cage up to every single pivot.
Even the XTR mechs.
Deore is the worst with sometimes 10 to 20mm side play in the whole mech. But the good thing is that even with this massive amount of play they still shift kinda ok.
But the quality of the new shimano stuff is a joke compared to the old 11 speed
Yet still somehow better than most of the new stuff? Admittedly the brakes have aged, but the rest is bomb proof.
NX derailleur MSRP: $115.
XT derailleur MSRP: $119.
GX derailleur MSRP: $135
which would you choose if the NX was not serviceable and needed replaced?
Honestly fancy drivetrains do less for me than fancy tires. Ill service the cheap derailleur and buy a new set of tires anytime that's an option. It's crazy to me how many people dont replace cages and jockey wheels, even though every manufacture sells them as consumables.
i will keep in mind a cage/pulley replacement in the future though, great idea!
i will keep in mind a cage/pulley replacement in the future though, great idea!
Seems like a great bike for the money.
Status is a good bike but it has not blown me away. I feel generous to give it an 8 out of 10 rating. My only real issue with it is the balance of the bike feels off in the S5 size, but it’s a big issue for me. I probably should have went S4, but I’m 188cm and the S4 felt cramped in the parking lot test
I much prefer the modern Commencal Meta AM or Spesh Enduro, in terms of ride experience.
The Modern Meta AM also has a pretty extreme front-end to rear-end length ratio, but you feel the 7mm shorter stays on the Status spoils the fun? I was kind hoping the Status's very low BB would somehow help keeping it form feeling too squirrely... and that the 426 stays would offer all the thing I like about short stays (throwing rear end around in tight terrain, keeping the front nice and playful, and keeping overall wheelbase in check even while allowing for a nice big reach and slack HT for the steep and fast stuff) while hopefully not going too far (basically just making the front end too vague and/ or forcing you "off the back" all the damn time).
Thoughts? Specifically: Do you think the imbalance makes it hard to have fun on the bike, or just lowers top speeds in the chunk?
I don't think the s4 would be a good option for me because the stack is too low, and I've found that for my riding style having a really high front end makes a huge difference in being able to push the front wheel that too-low stack really exacerbates weight distribution issues with short rear centers.
The S5 geometry and suspension (fork and rear end) is really good in chunk for me. That's where I enjoy this bike the most, and this is what has me debating keeping it (also it's such a cheap backup bike that's pretty darn good). I don't feel the back end being to short at all here, it feels great.
I have played around with different set ups, and my favorite is the low bb setting, with stack raised all the way up. It feels really good in steeper sections and bashing through rocks.
Where I am having an issue with this bike is drops, jumping and cornering. I feel the balance is off with short chain stays in hard corners. I have to guess where to distribute my weight a bit depending on the tightness and speed of each specific corner and it doesn't feel very "natural". That's the only issue with the chain stays I have I believe. I usually love short chainstays, but I have never paired them with these monster 515mm reach bikes we have today.. I find this bike very hard to manual, which tells me I'm on the wrong size and balance is just way off, doesn't matter how short the cs gets.
I am having a balance issue where the bike feels top heavy on larger jumps and drops, and it's getting this slight twitch mid air that has me feeling scared I'm going to eat crap every big jump. Enduro-MTB mentions it in their review. This review here of the 140 also mentions it somewhat, how the Status is better for smooth flow and smaller jump lines. I feel like that translates to the 160 as well, and I feel like this frame is best suited towards the "aggressive trail" side of mountain biking. For me anyways..There are plenty who will disagree with me and that's fine.
Meta AM is a much beefier bike, like a true enduro race bike. The thickness of the metal on the bike and welds just feel bulkier. Jumping it, the bike is very steadfast mid-air like a downhill bike. You can land a little sideways and the overall bike just handles it better than the Status. Specialized Enduro feels like this too. I prefer this big steadfast feeling, and they don't pedal any worse than the Status, if anything they are better (Enduro) or just as good(Meta AM).
The 2021 Meta AM I had was a size Large. At 188cm I always feel in between sizes, and I usually size down to L instead of XL. When I rode the S4 Status (basically a Large), the bike felt short in terms of "height", which I didn't like as much but looking back it's probably a lot better for jumping although worse for going uphill all day. The Large Meta AM felt perfect for me with 495mm reach and 430 chainstays, and this is all basically an experiment for me on how long I can go on each of these measurements with the new bikes with modern geo.
Maybe I'll just work on feeling contentment with what I already have... which I need to practice LOL
Swapped the cassette for a sweet Garbaruk, got a GX derailleur (two broken NX), and had to change the fork for a RockShox Lyrik Ultimate because the Rhythm broke in the lowers (the connecting arc)
If you want a little science to back this up: Enduro MTB does a comprehensive analysis (power, stopping time from different speeds, etc.) for like 20+ brakes each year. Low and behold: Sram Code RSCs perform perfectly well, producing about 71 Nm of torque and performing in the top 25% of bikes in terms of stopping performance for both 30-15 kph and 45-0 kph. They are comparing directly with brands like Hope, Magura, Trickstuff, Shimano, TRP, etc.
I'm sorry, but you're wrong. Code RSC's are perhaps adequate for mellower riders on smaller and/or gentler trails. But when it comes to big, steep, rowdy descents literally every single competitor provides a significantly better brake at every single price point. Hope, Shimano, TRP, Magura, Hayes, etc all blow Sram out of the water.
Quote the nerdy german analysis all you want, but when it comes to lived experience (DH riding in southeast BC), Codes suck and are not up to the task of big, steep, rowdy descents. Here's an different brake shootout that counters your dorky german gospel. blisterreview.com/gear-reviews/mtb-brake-shootout
"Overall the Code RSCs are a solid, dependable brake with great spare parts availability and relatively linear power delivery that’s likely to appeal to folks who find certain brakes to be too “on / off” and tricky to modulate. Their outright power is well short of the biggest, strongest brakes here but especially with 200+ mm rotors, it’ll be enough for a lot of folks on a lot of bikes, and there’s plenty to like about them otherwise."
So, like, exactly what I said above. They come in at about the 45-50th percentile in terms of outright power, but because of the modulation they are quite good at actually stopping riders. Hence, they are perfectly fine brakes. Hell - you can easily throw on better pads or upgrade to 200 or 220mm rotors for $120 and you'll be in great shape.
Again, this is coming from a guy who rides Trickstuff Maximas. Do Codes compare favorably? No. But they are certainly fine brakes for 99% of riders.
I agree that Codes are probably good enough for many riders (those with lower abilities, small terrain, or gentle relief). For riders who don't fall into any of those three categories, literally every other competing brake manufacturer makes a better brake at the equivalent price point to a given Sram brake.
Maxima's are probably amazing, I've never tried, but Codes do not pass go and certainly do not collect $200 for serious riders in my neck of the woods. You'll find us on Shimano, Magura, Hope, TRP, or Hayes
Look - I've spent ample time riding bike parks, including Whistler. To say that Sram Codes are not found on "serious rider" bikes is just patently wrong. Probably 50% of professional/sponsored mountain bikers are riding Code RSCs and getting along better than you or I ever will.
I'm not saying Codes aren't found on serious or fast riders' bikes. I'm just saying that they don't belong there! Good riders will excel on a shopping cart.
I also don't believe that brake lab test results have a significant correlation to on-trail performance. Again, my Saints will blow Codes out of the water from a performance perspective on my local DH trails. My buddy's Hope's are so powerful they'll send me OTB compared to my Saints. Whatever numbers you cite from the lab are meaningless if they don't translate in reality.
The whole "I've been to Whistler, therefore I know XYZ" trope is getting laughable. I too have been to Whistler and can confirm that on the whole, WPB isn't that steep, nor is it exceedingly demanding on brakes. If you wanna test braking performance in a bike park setting, I'd suggest top to bottom runs on the fall-line DH tracks at Sun Peaks.
This whole "I'm cherry-picking my own preconceived notion and opinion, and equating it to an objective truth" trope is getting laughable. Hope T3, Shimano XT and Zee and TRP Quadiem all produce nearly identical power to Sram Code RSC's, and many of those offer inferior modulation performance. Frankly, most of the truly fast riders I know care primarily about modulation, since this is important to skilled and fast riders.
Codes are trash for demanding braking applications. They are perhaps solid, dependable brakes for lower-moderate skill riders, or riders with small vertical or gentle relief. But they simply do not work to an acceptable degree in my part of the world, where power & consistency are the most important metrics.
Codes rank the lowest in terms of power in the Blister Review... I suggest you review the summary tabs at the end of the article. Lowest is not mid-pack. Your german geek squad may have busted out calculators and strung together some wild theory but it doesn't hold water in the real world. Any sort of deceleration field test with a rider on an actual bike slamming on the brakes is objectively crap. A deceleration test in lab might give you some numbers, but has little to do with translating to on-trail performance.
I'd wager that your ol' trusty codes would feel far from perfect after 2000ft of descending on a hot summer day on a relentless steep fall-line trail with another 2000ft to go
Even the guide rsc are very reliable brakes.
The most reliable I ever owned.
With thick rotors, good pads and a very good bleed, they can produce an surprisingly good amount of stopping power with a super short lever throw.
The code R I had were never weak, but needed a piston mobilization once a year.
youtu.be/piWBVDh1pTE
www.specialized.com/us/en/status-140-frameset/p/199766?color=320378-199766&searchText=73722-7103&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmZejBhC_ARIsAGhCqnepns8FDA0AxsRW0vOsdV6BGKw3wtLqnnwOMA_WxNhPWHXRyqDFikUaAhNHEALw_wcB
I will say, the shock lockout has GOT to work to get this bike up a hill. Mine was dodgy out of the box and I was so disappointed, until I sent the shock off for a warranty service. I've probably used the lockouts more on this bike than on my Nukeproof, which I owned for eight years.
The bike is also very heavy, definitely heavier than the 2014 trail bike it replaced. Not entirely surprising given the intended usage/spec/fork, and anything with this travel getting close to 30lbs probably costs twice as much.
I much prefer the Spesh Enduro or Commencal Meta AM for bike parks and possibly racing.
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How are those related?
Upgrading NX to GX derailleur? I would have never though about upgrading a part on the derailleur to fix the issue. That's not common knowledge in my bike circle. Thanks for noting that @dpars63.
A friend of mine, big guy 6' +, strong and burly, rode this for a bit but didn't like the climbing performance. He switched to an Enduro.... then Levo..... then Kanevo SL. I think the Status is a great bike for those on a budget who aren't sure of how gnarly they want to get. It's a great entry bike and you can either upgrade parts, or sell it to get on something you may like more after feeling it out on the Status.
So the exact intervals in the manual? What's a "rebuild" in this context? Lower leg seals and bath oil? Air spring seals? Damper oil change? Damper seals and bushings?
unfortunately I missed the big sales and I'm interested in a Status but 160 is out of stock and 140 only in XL/S5, not available in store nearby.am I crazy? it seems like everyone rides much smaller size respective to their height
I'm not sure I'll be able the full 17omm of the dropper, is that a big pb ?
Specialized sizing tool advise me to go for a S4 but if I add .2 inch to my shin length it says S5 ??
also...I'm surprised that the 160 is 2 lbs heavier than my 13yo 160mm travel bike, and even the 140 still 1 lb heavier..
Happy to report back on a bike a year later.
For reference for bike size, I am 6’4” and live in Brisbane, Australia.
DM me if you have one for me!
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XT mech and shifter, new brakes, new rear wheel, new chain, New tires. A 140 trail bike that climbs like crap without locking out the shock, i am sold where do I get one....isn't this the bike that wasn't available during all of COVID?
... Half the price of the bike.... My point is more that you shouldn't need to replace parts in year one or use the climb switch on a trail bike in this day and age. Not that you would do much better on a 4 or 5k bike in 2023 with all the down specs by brands so as not raise prices.
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