Photo Story: Mountain Biking Through Lapland

Words: Gerhard Czerner

Floating houses, northern lights dancing across the sky, shamanic wisdom dispensed by the fire and endless trails crossing multi-colored fjells: A bike tour through the resplendent fall landscape of Lapland almost verges on sensory overload in more ways than one.



Ruska is the Finnish word to describe the spectacular natural fall phenomenon that transforms the countryside into an explosion of color. This seasonal spectacle usually lasts about two weeks. Golden birch leaves hang from white, gnarled branches, a beautiful contrast to the flaming red carpet of blueberry bushes on the forest floor. The low-lying, late afternoon sun bathes the surroundings in a soft, warm light, further deepening the blue of the lakes. This second summer is an unparalleled natural event in Lapland, and we were lucky enough to be there for one of these weeks. However, we didn't realize our good fortune until we landed far north of the Arctic circle, in Kittilä. As soon as we left the airport, we couldn't help but be overwhelmed by the blaze of colors around us.



Our log house accommodations couldn't be more authentic. It’s the perfect movie backdrop. The natural building materials exude coziness in every single room. It belongs to a family of hunters, as evidenced by the many pelts and antlers adorning the walls. In addition to a few bedrooms and a living area and adjoining kitchen flooded in natural light, there is, of course, the requisite sauna. Saunas have a long history in Finland and are an essential component of Finnish life. “A house isn't complete without a sauna,” Juha explains, laughing. “There are over three million in Finland!”




We don’t have much time the next day to get warmed up. The narrow trail winds its way through dense forest and after just a few minutes, it climbs steeply. We actually have to get off and push, and later, shoulder our bikes. “Who would have thought that we’d have to carry our bikes in this flat countryside,” I say, laughing. We're biking along one of the many fjells in the area. Coming from the Alps, we’d call these elevations hills. The treeless plateaus open out onto a magnificent view over endless swaths of land.





Also on the program is a visit to the Levi Bike Park. The map shows 16 different routes or partial routes. It’s got everything, from easy blue trails to the World Cup Black trail. There are also two enduro routes that go around the park’s perimeter. The next day, the gondola takes us the 310 vertical meters to the top. The summit station is high above the tree line and offers an impressive panoramic view of the surrounding landscape. The trail conditions vary. We’re surprised by the diverse terrain in the park. From rough nature trails following shaped flow lines to challenging stretches featuring big jumps and wooden structures, the trails guarantee that bikers will have a great time, regardless of their skill level.





“What is it with the sixth season that I heard about?” I ask Juha on our last evening together. “The Sami, Europe’s only Indigenous Peoples, split the year into eight seasons. So in addition to winter, there’s also early winter and late winter. The same applies to summer,” Juha explains. “And ruska, fall, is the sixth season in the Sami calendar.” We agree that these beautiful weeks fully deserve their own season, because biking along lonely paths through a light-filled, resplendently colorful forest on days like this truly is a magical experience.







Rider: Franziska Gobeli & Gerhard Czerner
Photos: Martin Bissig

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