PNW Loam
• Weight: 442 g
• Pins per side: 11
• Usable platform dimensions (L x W): 115 x 102mm
• Internals: 2x roller bearings (one large inboard), 1x bushing
• Colors: black, silver, purple, orange, green
• MSRP: $99 USD
•
pnwcomponents.comOne of the most easily identifiable pedals in the test is the smooth finish, round edges, and angular platform on the Loam pedal from PNW. There’s also an oversize bearing on the inside of the axle and narrower diameter traction pins, like the Race Face Atlas, Canfield Crampon, and OneUp’s alloy option.
I’ll admit, I had some preconceived notions about the Loam pedals in that the angled leading edge would feel strange underfoot and the lack of concavity would cause a few foot slips. Even with a soft-soled shoe, it’s tricky to actually say if I could feel that unorthodox polygon shape.
The inner bearing bulge never caused any major concerns either as I tend to ride duck-footed. Riders who throw tricks where their feet leave the pedals, or position their feet close to the cranks, typically won’t favor this design.
That bearing also started to spin the platform around a bit too quickly for my taste after just a handful of rides. I opened up the internals and found all the bits were in order and clean. Adding thicker grease helped calm this down for another couple of rides.
In terms of grip, I’m of two minds about the Loam pedals. The pins are actually quite impressive, but there’s a lack of concavity to the profile. The front and rear sections of the platform are lower than the center. I thought removing the middle pin would help with this, but that actually pronounced the area over the axle and decreased grip.
Removing the pins should be straightforward since they are accessible from the reverse side, however, the tiny allen key head became clogged with debris soon after the first ride.
It’s worth pointing out that the PNW Loam pedal is the least expensive alloy option in the test. I can’t comment on their long-term durability just yet, but if you’re looking for a pedal that isn’t overly expensive with moderate grip, these could work well.
Pros
+ Grippier than expected
+ Inexpensive alloy option
Cons
- Lacks concavity
- Started to spin rapidly after a few rides
[PSECTION id=5dev]
5DEV Trail/Enduro
• Weight: 340 g
• Pins per side: 12
• Usable platform dimensions (L x W): 110 x 90mm
• Internals: 4x roller bearings, 1x IGUS bushing
• Colors: black, silver, purple, gold, kash
• MSRP: $249 USD
•
ride5dev.comBy far the smallest pedals in appearance, but the ones with the sharpest edges, are 5DEV’s Trail/Enduro option. These use the same shape as their All Around pedal but feature two more pins near the center of the platform which are said to increase the traction.
Like the PNW Loam pedals, there isn’t a great deal of concavity because the 5DEVs are very thin overall. They use a 17-4 stainless steel axle which 5DEV claims is 30% stronger than chromoly steel. Two portions of the platform are raised to make way for the four roller bearings and IGUS bushing on the inner end of the axle.
The bushing and axle tolerance also seemed tighter than normal which made the pedal reluctant to stay attached to your shoes, particularly while climbing. Even after a couple of rides, they never broke in so I backed off the axle nut slightly to relieve that friction.
5DEV didn’t design their pedals to have a totally locked-in feel. The sharp, threaded pins grab your shoe quickly without letting them sink too deep into the rubber which gives an interesting hold. Those bumps on the platform do take away from the effective width of the pedal and the concavity though.
Looking at the measurements, the Trail/Enduro pedal is not only small in area and height, but also Q-factor. At 108mm, it’s nearly the narrowest in the test. Personally, I’d trade the clearance for a wider footprint with more support that’s quicker to reposition your foot on. The Trail/Enduro pedals could be a solid option to reduce wide Q-factors on some eMTBs though.
Pros
+ Unique balance of light grip without totally locking in
+ Narrow Q-factor might appeal to eMTB riders
Cons
- Bushing tolerance is on the tighter side
- Expensive
Large Stamp 3's on XC/Trail bike
Large Stamp 7's on AllMnt/Enduro bike
I concur, and have had the same setup, but was disappointed with pin performance and the need for constant servicing. The pins were destroyed and became unreplaceable after less than 2 seasons. Now I am super happy with the OneUp alu. Better grip, less maintenance and I can always replace pins, after I shave them off on rocks.
& Nukeproof Neutron
& NC-17 Sudpin Pro (although pins come loose quickly)
&....
There are so many other pairs of great pedals.
Just order 'em from a catalog company & pick a color & pattern combo?
From what I can tell, all of the ones in this test seem to have their own unique, brand specific designs.
www.pinkbike.com/news/12-of-the-best-mtb-flat-pedals-ridden-and-rated-2020.html
My favorite top dollar pedals are the Hope F20, mainly because they're ridiculously durable. They don't have nearly as much grip, though. I'm excited to try the F22 pedals at some point.
I now run (no joke) front and back cheap football (soccer) shinpads under my trousers. I don't want to give up the grip, but I'm in no rush to suffer them on my legs again!
I had to replace the bushings after less than 6 months. They've needed more frequent services than the Superstar Nano Evos they replaced, but I folded one of those in half on a rock strike so I'd stick with the Burgtecs out of the two!
They are way to close to the arm though and don't seem to have the longevity of the older models - maybe they changed from UK manufacture to overseas?
You cant say a bad word about burgtec gear though, because ratboy, syndicate, jibs, the lads....
IMO the bigger change that you see is that you're moving your foot about half an inch (possibly more) forward, which has an effect of increasing the rear center of the bike and shortening the front center of the bike.
The biggest benefit for me is I find I have less anterior ankle pain, as the pedals have less leverage on my feet during big impacts. Overall I would say I like them more than most other pedals, but they aren't the end all be all.
Then I read about this mid-foot positon and tried it out. No numb feet, no cramps (feet and calves). With my new bike I wanted the Catalyst pedals but due to the pandemic they were not available. So I got the one-up aluminium. I’m sold to mid-foot pedaling.
I would like to try some longer pedals like the Tectonic Altar (not so bulky as the catalyst) but the concavity holds me back. (And the price)
Two years ago a snapped the internal spindle off the 8040 (I'm 170 lbs) and replaced it with the 8141, which snapped in the same place after a year. I brought it to a LBS last Sept/Oct and I'm STILL waiting for any word on warranty.
I love almost all of my Shimano products, but this is garbage.
Hopefully your LBS will eventually get you a set of M8141 and they will last.
"They use a 17-4 stainless steel axle which 5DEV claims is 30% stronger than chromoly steel."
That's also a pretty silly comparison, because "chromoly steel" encompasses a whole range of alloys/grades. Some do have quite lower tensile and yield strengths, but that also generally are more elastic and not as hard, which can be quite good depending on application. However, some chromoly grades, like 4140, are pretty damn close to 17-4.
Compared to 4130 (very common in bike world), the 17-4 axle might be able handle more force before taking damage, but if it does break it's more likely to just snap instead of bending first.
When rear loading pins get wrecked, you have to hacksaw or tin-snip the remaining nub of pin off or else you run the risk of destroying the threading in the pedal...
Front load pins are superior.
Aside from that, they were probably my favorite pedals as far as grip and feel under foot, though.
Disclaimer: Race Face sent me a free pair of pedals to try. Not sure that really worked in their favor, though.
Ive had Vaults , Deity, One Up , Race Face, Burgtec and these are good.
Factor in cost and prob one of best out there
Can't beat that offer.
www.wiggle.com/eu/p/nukeproof-horizon-pro-downhill-flat-pedals?color=grey&sizeStandard=One+Size
www.syntace.com/en_GB/products/pedals/mountain-bike/68/numbernine2-titan-size-l?c=88
If you want to ensure that your pedals are up to the task, you should ask the brand you are interested in "How do you test your pedals?". Actually, you should ask that question for every mountain bike product on the market.
I can't really speak the V2's beyond that they've lasted one ride. Still waiting to hear about replacing my second V1 pair. Again, I love the feel of them, but I already wreck enough on my own. I don't need to add "are my pedals going to break on this feature?" to my anxiety.
'There are instances of spindle failures with every pedal that is sold on the market. '
At consumer level or testing phase Proof of this please?
You can see the difference between the V1 and V2 axle here - ridetenet.com/collections/hardgoods
Certain pedals in the test, with a large flat area where the pedal interfaces with the crank, can't be used if you're running carbon cranks with crank boots. Namely the PNW and RaceFace pedals. Seems that might've warranted a mention.
Was also kinda curious about a comment on the Stamp 7s. Personally it never even occurred to me to leave the pedal axle attached to the crank while servicing them. Lot easier to take the whole thing off and service it on your bench, and part of my pedal service routine is to clean/regrease pedal axle threads anyway.
Then it occurred to me, I've never seen another rider or mechanic service a set of pedals, and now I'm kinda wondering, am *I* the weird one? Is it common practice to just remove the pedal body from the bike, while servicing pedals?
I understand that testers can't run bikes or parts for a full year+ to really test how they last, but long term durability should be a higher criteria on the list.
Not all flat pedal riders are on smooth bike park trails and with low BBs these days pedal strike on embedded rocks, roots and deep ruts is an issue I regularly encounter and want to avoid
I ride all winter and I'm not that careful about avoiding stuff. Zero maintenance done and they're still spinning smooth.
Also of note, they shrug off impacts quite impressively, so very little damage shows.
What I don't understand is why they arent feature in the above review and why they haven't blown up more because they are as good as any pedal on the market that I've tried PLUS you can colour-coordinate. Of course performance trumps aesthics, but with these pedals, I got both
I do wish they'd offer a concave version as I do pop out of these more often than I do out of my T-Mac's.
Do the square edges grab on rocks more? I would think maybe yes...
Does the forward offset provided by a big chamfer have any advantage? I would think maybe with ball-of-foot-over-axle foot position, but maybe less with a position closer to arch-over-axle. Interestingly, the Catalyst, arguably the design most intended for arch-over-axle, also seems to have the most aggressive chamfer and forward offset.
Anyone found a comparable pedal these days? If I had a time machine.
"We experienced quality control issues from our mold tooling during follow-up production rounds, resulting in unusable parts. We made the tough decision to pivot our design to an aluminum pedal body, using nearly all of the same parts. We machine and assemble these here in Durango, making the transition as seamless as possible. We still believe in the performance benefits of our original material, and plan to reintroduce that product line when our budget allows, but are very proud of the aluminum pedals, and were able to incorporate minor improvements and bug fixes with this revised version."
I only ride flats occasionally and think I’ll stick to my old DMR v8,s and some other thinner pair, whose name escapes me at the moment as I haven’t used them in a while.
Super thin leading edge.
Convex. (Concave doesn't mean best grip by default)
I installed longer pins, and grip is even more excellent.
www.syntace.com/en_GB/products/pedals/mountain-bike
Ain't got no idea about the other pedals, but that's my second pair ( first stolen with the bike ) and i'm damn happy
also think having different sizes for different shoe sizes is a good idea.
Are you clipping in for making up a lack of technique (rear wheel lifts, dropoffs, bunnyhops?) Or for a perceived benefit of power? (Google Flat Pedal Manifesto).
Seems different people have different likes.
That's one of the biggest factors in grip and shoe wear.
The main reason for me running Vaults now is the bigger diameter pins that doesn't devour shoes at nearly the same rate as pedals with thinner pins.
I used to thrash a pair of freerider contacts in a few months when I used pedals with thinner pins before switching to Vaults.
There is a design issue where the pedals can't be disassembled if you beat the crap out of the outer edge, but I never needed to rebuild. I was a fan, but really haven't noticed a negative difference switching to Canfield Crampons (for matching colors perfectly...)
There are (almost) no concave pedals out there.
No use describing them as concave, if what is really meant is that they have longer pins in the front and back.
Personally, I was surprised at the awesome grip that the reverse concavity actually gives
Anyhow. as someone whos been riding the V1 for multiple years now i would highly recommend.
I’ve tried a fair number of flats and they take the win!
Oneup alu. On the other hand. Absolutely garbage
Nice one.
Say what now?
@mattbeer you're saying you think you can feel that with your foot hanging over the front and back edges of the pedal? I'm seriously doubtful of that. Like your center of force is exactly onto the axle, yet you're saying your feet want to rotate off?
This is what drives me crazy about mountain bike journalism, opinions stated as fact, and sometimes obviously incorrect assumptions made.
Don't get me wrong, I like your writing Matt, but that's utter nonsense. You most certainly cannot feel that off center in the pedal. You're body is way too dynamic for that. Or foot you also notice your shoes not being symmetrical behind and in front of your ankle?
If you have a shorter rear section behind the axle, it actually means you have less leverage to rotate it backwards because of the INCREASED leverage provided by the longer front.
Again, you obviously didn't like them, and I have no horse in this race, but for whatever reason you didn't like them it cannot be as you have stated. The basic mechanics dispute your reasoning, not your experience.
And I like your writing Matt, you're maybe better than average for mtb writers, but I had to point out the logical fallacy of the discussion.
Happy pedaling on something other than those offset Hope pedals!
Matt, what's your shoe size?
www.straitlinecomponents.com/products/amp-pedals?variant=5947830915
If you can find them with titanium axles you get these beauties at 272gr/pair
www.pinkbike.com/news/12-of-the-best-mtb-flat-pedals-ridden-and-rated-2020.html
Best pedals and customer service!
Also, OneUp is the best value? Lol. They are they only composite pedal in the test. Why didnt you put in their alu pedal? Other companies have composite options as well....
Weirdest shootout I've seen in a while....Do better PB....
"We focused on pedals that weren’t featured in this round up (link to main round up) and included a couple of favorites for comparison's sake. Like our Field Tests, there’s always another bike (or in this case, a pedal) that you were hoping to see, but we can’t test everything under the sun in one review."
But I'm glad you've figure it out, that's one less flat pedal discussion that needs to be had!
They are one of those things you have to invest a LOT of time getting good at. Anyone new to clipless WILL have problems getting out, anyone new to riding could potentially build bad habits (but with the popularity of full squish these days people are building them anyways. I see lots of people lifting the rear on full squish)
Which selling bikes is what it's really all about...