How Does It Compare? I currently have a Transition Spur as my personal bike, which made it easy to do back-to-back laps between it and the Spark.
When it comes to geometry, both bikes sit in a similar realm. The Spur with a 120mm fork has a 66-degree head angle and a 480mm reach, while the Spark with its 130mm fork has a 65.8-degree head angle and a 470mm reach. The Spark has a slightly steeper seat tube angle of 76.2 versus the Spur's 75.9-degree angle, a difference that's easy to compensate for by the sliding the seat forward or back on its rails.
The Spark's claimed frame weight is nearly a pound lighter than the Spur's, at 1999 grams vs. 2450 grams. Both bikes will feel nice and light if you're coming from a burlier trail or enduro bike, but it's worth a mention for all the gram counters out there.
Even though the geometry numbers are pretty close on paper, there are distinct handling differences out on the trail. The Spark's TwinLoc system makes it possible to give a firmer suspension platform, and that combined with the lighter weight gives it the edge over the Spur on the climbs. I was more likely to stand up and sprint in an attempt to beat my personal best climbing times on the Spark, while the Spur has a slightly more relaxed, neutral approach to climbs.
Even with a 60mm stem the Spark has a more compact, nimble feel, which makes it easier to get through tight, awkward ascents. If you place a high priority on technical climbing performance, the Spark takes the point in that department.
It's when the trail tips downhill that the Spur really comes to life, with a blend of playfullness and stability that the Spark can't match. Don't get me wrong, the Spark is very capable, but the Spur takes things up a notch. I was much more comfortable in the air on the Spur, while the Spark's manners encourage more of a wheels-on-the-ground approach. Some of that could likely be adjusted with a shorter stem and higher rise bars, but all that integration makes that a tricky procedure.
Overall, I'd say the Spark is 60% focused on the climbs and 40% focused on the descents, while the Spur has those numbers reversed, with more of the focus on the descents, despite having only 120mm of travel.
ValueNo matter how you look at it, $10,000 is a ton of money for a mountain bike, and this isn't even the top of the line model. The good news is that Scott's lineup runs deep, and includes a huge range of build options.
Which one offers the best value? Aluminum is going to be the way to go if you're on a budget, and in that category the $3,300 Spark 960 Black gets my pick. It has a Shimano Deore 12-speed drivetrain (other than the XT derailleur – I really wish product managers would up-spec the shifters rather than derailleurs), Shimano M510 brakes, a RockShox Judy fork, and an X-Fusion shock. It's a solid, workhorse build, and one that could be upgraded with nicer components further down the road. I would have preferred to see a Fox Rhythm fork over the Judy Silver, but that fork doesn't enter the lineup until the carbon Spark 930, which retails for $4,500 USD. The 960 Black does weigh nearly 7 pounds more than the super-fancy model reviewed here, but you'll also have $6,700 left in your bank account.
Money transferred. How will I know it's arrived?
I'm so excited, finally a real product that doesnt make me feel ripped off. Man I love the internet!
To clarify: The only time you need to re-cable is if you need to replace your upper headset bearing. And the only "problem" adjusting stem height is that you need to find the right height for you and cut the steerer tube to be able to run the plastic covers. The stock spacers are designed to split open so you can remove them.
So for example if you want to try a lower position, you just remove the handlebar, split one or more spacers open to remove, put the handlebar combo back, put some random spacer on top of the stem and go ride. Is it a good fit? Great, cut the steerer and assemble the stem again with the stock plastic covers.
There are also several traditional stem options available, which comes stock on the lower end models without the one-piece combos. Rotating the cup to change head angle is also done in no time, even trail side.
Surprised that was not listed as a con given how drastically that will affect versatility by way of limiting downhill capability. Yeah yeah its xc oriented and everyone and their grandma can high post down vertical slabs but still, that's nuts.
Gimmicky bike for people with too much money that stick to relatively flat terrain.
Anyway, bar roll is important, so is experimenting with different stem lengths (or even stem rise), so is experimenting with bar height vs adding spacers (not the same thing). Any experienced rider with tell you these little tweaks are crucial to having a bike perform how they want it.
Also, any amateur mechanic has at least a few of them.
A silly concept to me would mean the need to route the cables and bleed the brakes every time you adjust the stem height... Which is clearly not the case here.
Needs to be made a headline, no better yet, have it as an advert banner in huge neon yellow letters over a dark background.
[Please close comments, turn off the lights, and everyone go home now.] ; )
canecreek.com/product/dbcoil-il
Maybe I try to get a used Spur frame and swap over all my parts to give it a shot!
Power delivery is great wide open but middle mode firms it up to more that of an XC bike which is handy for adding a touch sportiness on smoother trails, for out of saddle re-acceleration, G-Out resistance, and for propping up the rear a little more on steep climbs (which I found really useful).
Lockout mode on mine (X-Fusion shock) ain't full lockout either, just really high compression. What this did was to allow me to really stomp up a fast climbs without compressing the bike but still soak up the trail chatter.
In the case of the Genius it's already efficient without twinloc, it was just a pretty sweet treat on top and felt it was pretty brilliant as I had everything in one bike. I don't think I need it on fork though.
Plus, as the review notes you're limited to the FiT damper, which is far inferior to both the grip and charger dampers. I've personally tested all three current mid-travel forks and FiT is very noticeably behind the others, it can't keep up in rocky or rooty terrain with high frequency, high speed hits.
I will say on my old Spark I went from a DT Swiss shock/twinlock to a non-remote CTD for additional trail adjustment... in the end though I always wanted a remote shock back.
Personally, this bike looks like a wicked trail bike/bikepacking option. That big open front triangle with no shock to interfere with frame bags is a real dreamer. My only concern would be the leverage ratio. Too high and it'll require a lot of air pressure to suit a loaded frame.
Someday, mark my words, I'm going to create a small electronic lockout that just listens to your power meter over ANT+, and at user-set thresholds it locks or unlocks your suspension based purely on whether you're pedaling or not. That simple. Maybe have a gradient sensor so you can have it detect descents and not engage.
I also love the idea of shrinking the air volume instead of a hydraulic lockout.
I couldn't quite figure out the cable routing - do they actually pass through the integrated stem/handlebar piece ? If so how would it even be possible to replace this part ? There would be no way to route the cables at all except by drilling a hole in an aftermarket stem or leaving off the top cap and star nut ?
A down-country bike that weighs 33 pounds without pedals? I can't imagine that being any fun. Maybe @mikekazimer should test that one instead of the $10,000 version. I bet it won't get his pick after all.
A $10,000 pedaller looks sick don’t get me wrong but… well it’s a lot of cash
*Insert comment about a few year old trail/enduro bike having a steeper HTA.*
I consider ders as a wear part, so I'd take X01 cable over AXS any day. Would consider AXS for a road bike tho
He probably used an over-the-bar twinloc remote from the 2016 and before Spark. I wish I’d kept the one from my ‘15 Spark to put on my newer one
Lever model year differences might yeild changes in leverage rate though according to my local fox tech.
The integration is tough because just some small changes to stem height & length + bar roll can pretty dramatically effect my personal comfort on my bike.
Regarding the lockouts for a 120/ 130 bike, I'm just not a fan of the integration but really even just the idea at it's core. This is a DC bike made for constant undulating terrain and those switches just add more weight and complexity that isn't needed as it already pedals so darn well.
Now if Fox built the shock with an electronic lockout activated by if the shock was currently climbing or not, I'd be totally in to it. With a phone App to control your preferences for when it locked out.
Thanks for the review MK!
Not worth the weight, now well designed if my experience is common.
It looks overly complicated to work on and it boggles my mind how many people dislike internal brake routing yet this is ok?
The new Spark seems to be an exercise in modern minimalization, or at least hiding only what some modern design studios would suggest to be "so last decade."
I digress. I'm sure the bike rides just fine, but the aesthetics are definitely... polarizing.
Thanks
Like Apple copying all the jailbreak Apps.
That's why you'll see reviews like this along with our Value Field Test and some other projects that are in the works to show where to spend and where to save.