Review: 2022 Specialized Status 140 - The Slope-Duro-Cross Weapon
When Specialized originally launched the new Status in 2021, we saw BMX superstars like Chase Hawk, blasting dirt jumps and skateparks on it. After harnessing the intentions of the Status 140, it became clear that this was more than a mini enduro bike. You might call it a "BMXer's first mountain bike". It was built to eke out the simple pleasures in mountain biking: boosting jumps and ripping turns, but the components don't cut it off from deep singletrack adventures either.
The 140mm of travel would typically put it squarely into the "trail bike" segment, but a slack head angle, mega-short chainstays, and a 29/27.5" wheel combo across all frames sizes set it free from any classification.
Specialized Status 140 Details
• Wheel size: 29" front / 27.5" rear
• Travel: 140mm / 140mm fork
• Aluminum frame
• 64.2 or 63.7-degree head tube angle
• 426 mm chainstays
• Sizes: S1-S5
• Complete Bike - $2,999 USD
• Frame kit - $1,399 USD
• Two unique colors for both the complete bike and frame kit
• Weight (actual, S3 w/o pedals): 15.15 kg / 33.40 lb
• specialized.com
• Wheel size: 29" front / 27.5" rear
• Travel: 140mm / 140mm fork
• Aluminum frame
• 64.2 or 63.7-degree head tube angle
• 426 mm chainstays
• Sizes: S1-S5
• Complete Bike - $2,999 USD
• Frame kit - $1,399 USD
• Two unique colors for both the complete bike and frame kit
• Weight (actual, S3 w/o pedals): 15.15 kg / 33.40 lb
• specialized.com
The Status 140 will become one of Specialized's first direct-to-consumer model bikes. It will also be available in a 160 mm rear wheel travel option and as a frame kit. Both the 140 and 160 are spec'd with the same components and cost just $2,999 USD. SRAM Code R brakes take care of the stopping duties with 200 mm rotors on both wheels, and suspension is handled by Fox with their 36 Rhythm fork and Float X shock, while Specialized rubber handles the traction duties with Butcher tires in the sticky T9 compound. The parts are a well rounded package and deliver an unassuming amount of performance on the trail in a world surrounded by bikes with five digit price tags.
Further Specialized branded parts include the wheels, saddle, bar and stem, which aren't just cookie cutter catalogue pieces. The stem in particular had some thought put into it with a zero-gap top section of the face plate, paired with a carbon headset top cap and spacers. As for the saddle, the Bridge is a model that has found its way to my personal bikes with a wide nose and flatter contour.
That's impressive considering there are other entry level bikes out there for similar prices that don't include wide range gearing or dropper posts. Geometry won't hold the rider back either. The geo chart shows how long and low the numbers go with the head tube angle dipping below 64º.
 | Whether it's backyard jump sessions or your first group trail ride, the Status is eager to pop off the ground and rail corners. The geometry puts the rider in a safe place without being nailed to the ground by a huge wheelbase. The switch to a snappy bike with less travel was rejuvenating and encouraged me to seek out more creative and less direct racer lines. |
Frame Details
I'm sure there were battles between the marketing and graphics teams before the paint scheme was decided on, because the only sign to identify the bike as a Specialized is the "S" on the head tube and the "Status" logo under the downtube. Regardless, the silhouette doesn't stray too far from previous Specialized models with the yoked linkage wrapping around the seat tube to actuate the shock, a design they've worked with for years.
A single bearing size is used across all of the sealed pivots with 8 mm hex heads and a hand-operated lever allows for tool-free rear wheel removal. This can be upgraded to the flush-head axle found on the Stumpjumper and Stumpjumper EVO to avoid unwanted contact on technical trails or while walking on the non-drive side of the bike.
At the yoke, Specialized implemented a flip-chip for an ultra-low geometry setting and the front shock mount serves as a nice platter for strapping down a tube. Another add-on for a budget friendly bike is a chain guide and the inclusion of ISCG tabs. A skid plate as standard equipment would be worthwhile, especially considering how low the bottom bracket can sit, but that's another simple add-on if required. Along the chainstay, there is a decent chain-slap protector, but it doesn't have the same wavy rubber pad found on Specialized's higher end full suspension models.
The internal cable routed is cleanly executed and the housings are barely visible until the BB junction. You'll notice there is no need for zip ties to secure these lines either - just a clamp at either end of the downtube, followed by a guide that snaps into the main pivot. Running the housing across the main pivot on FSR bikes reduces the amount of movement the housings undergo as the bike cycles through the travel.
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I'm sure there were battles between the marketing and graphics teams before the paint scheme was decided on, because the only sign to identify the bike as a Specialized is the "S" on the head tube and the "Status" logo under the downtube. Regardless, the silhouette doesn't stray too far from previous Specialized models with the yoked linkage wrapping around the seat tube to actuate the shock, a design they've worked with for years.
A single bearing size is used across all of the sealed pivots with 8 mm hex heads and a hand-operated lever allows for tool-free rear wheel removal. This can be upgraded to the flush-head axle found on the Stumpjumper and Stumpjumper EVO to avoid unwanted contact on technical trails or while walking on the non-drive side of the bike.
At the yoke, Specialized implemented a flip-chip for an ultra-low geometry setting and the front shock mount serves as a nice platter for strapping down a tube. Another add-on for a budget friendly bike is a chain guide and the inclusion of ISCG tabs. A skid plate as standard equipment would be worthwhile, especially considering how low the bottom bracket can sit, but that's another simple add-on if required. Along the chainstay, there is a decent chain-slap protector, but it doesn't have the same wavy rubber pad found on Specialized's higher end full suspension models.
The internal cable routed is cleanly executed and the housings are barely visible until the BB junction. You'll notice there is no need for zip ties to secure these lines either - just a clamp at either end of the downtube, followed by a guide that snaps into the main pivot. Running the housing across the main pivot on FSR bikes reduces the amount of movement the housings undergo as the bike cycles through the travel.
The sleek and quiet cable routing is mainly internal. A short portion of the brake hose runs along the top of the chainstay. Single-use zip ties are not needed to secure the housings either.
All of the pivots run on the same size bearings and use 8 mm hex key pivot hardware that is has a built-in seal.
Good geometry doesn't cost more.
Geometry
If you're going to get a mullet, you may as well go all out - gel up the front, shave the sides, and let the back flow wildly. Business in the front, party in the back. The head tube angle in the low BB setting is out there at 63.7º, and that chainstay is so short that it almost feels like you are standing on the rear axle. If you were able to smash together a dirt jump bike and enduro bike, this is what you'd end up with.
Specialized offers the Status 140 in five sizes that should work for a wide range of rider heights. At 178 cm tall, I chose the S3 size with a reach of 465 mm - a perfect match for the intended purpose of the Status. That kept the wheelbase in check to easily nose into sniper landings and flick the bike around on command. The balance of front to rear centers meshed well on the S3, but I do wonder how that stubby chainstay would play with the longer S4 and S5 reaches that stretch up to 515 mm.
![photo]()
If you're going to get a mullet, you may as well go all out - gel up the front, shave the sides, and let the back flow wildly. Business in the front, party in the back. The head tube angle in the low BB setting is out there at 63.7º, and that chainstay is so short that it almost feels like you are standing on the rear axle. If you were able to smash together a dirt jump bike and enduro bike, this is what you'd end up with.
Specialized offers the Status 140 in five sizes that should work for a wide range of rider heights. At 178 cm tall, I chose the S3 size with a reach of 465 mm - a perfect match for the intended purpose of the Status. That kept the wheelbase in check to easily nose into sniper landings and flick the bike around on command. The balance of front to rear centers meshed well on the S3, but I do wonder how that stubby chainstay would play with the longer S4 and S5 reaches that stretch up to 515 mm.
Don't mess with what's not broken. 140 mm of FSR suspension travel keeps the wheel on the ground when you want it there and is predictable to launch in the air.
Suspension Design
As you'd expect, Specialized has implemented the use of their tried and true 4-bar, FSR design. The Horst-Link is a widely used system suspension throughout the industry because of its performance characteristics to packaging constraints tradeoff. The rear brake and axle are mounted to the floating seatstay and the kinematics can be altered somewhat independently of each other. For the Status, that means a rocker-driven shock yoke wraps around a full length seat tube and retains real estate for a water bottle.
Typically, this layout makes for a forward axle path with minimal rearward travel and holds true for the Status. The trade off here is a bike that can be easier to predict every move and gains maneuverability at low speed, which complements the Status' intentions compared to some ground hugging high-pivot machines.
As you'd expect, Specialized has implemented the use of their tried and true 4-bar, FSR design. The Horst-Link is a widely used system suspension throughout the industry because of its performance characteristics to packaging constraints tradeoff. The rear brake and axle are mounted to the floating seatstay and the kinematics can be altered somewhat independently of each other. For the Status, that means a rocker-driven shock yoke wraps around a full length seat tube and retains real estate for a water bottle.
Typically, this layout makes for a forward axle path with minimal rearward travel and holds true for the Status. The trade off here is a bike that can be easier to predict every move and gains maneuverability at low speed, which complements the Status' intentions compared to some ground hugging high-pivot machines.
| Specifications | ||
| Price | $2999 | |
| Travel | 140 | |
| Rear Shock | Fox Float X | |
| Fork | Fox 36 Float Rhythm | |
| Headset | Specialized | |
| Cassette | SRAM NX 10-50 | |
| Crankarms | SRAM NX 170 | |
| Chainguide | Specialized top guide | |
| Bottom Bracket | DUB BSA | |
| Rear Derailleur | SRAM NX 12-spd | |
| Chain | SRAM NX 12-spd | |
| Shifter Pods | SRAM NX 12-spd | |
| Handlebar | Specialized alloy 800 mm | |
| Stem | Specialized alloy 40 mm | |
| Grips | Diety Knuckleduster | |
| Brakes | SRAM Code R 200 mm | |
| Wheelset | Roval Traverse Alloy | |
| Hubs | Roval Traverse | |
| Spokes | DT | |
| Rim | Roval Traverse | |
| Tires | Specialized Butcher Grid Trail T9 | |
| Seat | Specialized Bridge 135 mm | |
| Seatpost | X-Fusion Manic 150 mm | |
Carbon cranks or a purple anodized stem won't make you a better rider. The Specialized Status 140 focuses on the basics first, like quality rubber and aggressive geometry, but doesn't forget about the finishing details like internal cable routing and comfortable contact points.
Test Bike Setup
Getting the suspension on the Status dialled in was simple because there were less fancy clickers to fuss with. I quickly settled on 190 psi in the rear shock, just under 30% sag, and pumped up the fork to 104 psi. I preferred to rely more on spring force to hold the front end up with quick rebounding action and the compression about four fifths of the way open. Halfway through testing, I played with adding a fifth volume spacer in the fork after one particularly large impact, but reverted back to the stock setup for more comfort, chalking up the harsh bottom out to user error. For the rear shock, I set things a degree slower on the rebound and found the stock volume spacers controlled over-enthusiastic lifts on the handlebars just fine.
I chopped the bars to 760 mm and ended up stacking 25 mm of spacers under the stem to put my hips in a relaxed position and to take some pressure off of my hands. I toyed with the low BB setting, but since I didn't visit any lift-assisted parks, I favored the high BB setting for more ground clearance when climbing.
Atmospheric rivers washed away trails and even highways through late autumn in British Columbia, so I took off to Northern California for a few days filled with sun and logging air miles. When I returned to colder temperatures in North Vancouver, snow and ice blanketed all but the lowest elevation trails, the perfect territory for short repetitions on low angle singletrack and sessioning features.
Getting the suspension on the Status dialled in was simple because there were less fancy clickers to fuss with. I quickly settled on 190 psi in the rear shock, just under 30% sag, and pumped up the fork to 104 psi. I preferred to rely more on spring force to hold the front end up with quick rebounding action and the compression about four fifths of the way open. Halfway through testing, I played with adding a fifth volume spacer in the fork after one particularly large impact, but reverted back to the stock setup for more comfort, chalking up the harsh bottom out to user error. For the rear shock, I set things a degree slower on the rebound and found the stock volume spacers controlled over-enthusiastic lifts on the handlebars just fine.
I chopped the bars to 760 mm and ended up stacking 25 mm of spacers under the stem to put my hips in a relaxed position and to take some pressure off of my hands. I toyed with the low BB setting, but since I didn't visit any lift-assisted parks, I favored the high BB setting for more ground clearance when climbing.
Atmospheric rivers washed away trails and even highways through late autumn in British Columbia, so I took off to Northern California for a few days filled with sun and logging air miles. When I returned to colder temperatures in North Vancouver, snow and ice blanketed all but the lowest elevation trails, the perfect territory for short repetitions on low angle singletrack and sessioning features.
Climbing
Let's be honest. No one would pick the Status 140 to tackle an Everest climbing challenge, but the lower front end and reasonable seat angle get the job done. That 140mm fork under the 115mm long head tube means there is a need to stay low and forward to simmer down any unwanted wheelies while attacking quick, uphill punches. The climb switch is easily located above the water bottle, which is handy since I used the cheat mode on the shock more often than gulping H2O, even during my time in the sun. Weight shifts are pronounced by the short chainstay, so I used the climb switch frequently on the Status to keep my center of gravity forward and eliminate the shock from sagging further into the stroke.
Without that climb switch on, you'll have to be mindful of your pedal positioning in tech climbs. It doesn't have the low dynamic ride height like the Stumpjumper EVO (in the stock geometry settings), but Status could be a good candidate for 165 mm cranks, keeping in mind the target market may be beginners who are still learning how to perfect their climbing tactics. The low bottom bracket wasn't a make or break deal, keeping in mind that the bike is intended to enjoy descending to the fullest.
![photo]()
Let's be honest. No one would pick the Status 140 to tackle an Everest climbing challenge, but the lower front end and reasonable seat angle get the job done. That 140mm fork under the 115mm long head tube means there is a need to stay low and forward to simmer down any unwanted wheelies while attacking quick, uphill punches. The climb switch is easily located above the water bottle, which is handy since I used the cheat mode on the shock more often than gulping H2O, even during my time in the sun. Weight shifts are pronounced by the short chainstay, so I used the climb switch frequently on the Status to keep my center of gravity forward and eliminate the shock from sagging further into the stroke.
Without that climb switch on, you'll have to be mindful of your pedal positioning in tech climbs. It doesn't have the low dynamic ride height like the Stumpjumper EVO (in the stock geometry settings), but Status could be a good candidate for 165 mm cranks, keeping in mind the target market may be beginners who are still learning how to perfect their climbing tactics. The low bottom bracket wasn't a make or break deal, keeping in mind that the bike is intended to enjoy descending to the fullest.
Descending
Lately, I've been riding a lot of long travel 29ers that are absolute brawlers when the going gets steep and rough. Those bikes can have huge wheelbases which are safe and stable, but aren't the most responsive. As much fun as it is approaching downhill race speeds, taking a break from survival mode is refreshing and shredding the Status through turn tracks and jump lines is where it comes alive - basically the perfect tool to light up your Instagram reel with.
Small bumps are handled decently with minor feedback on the chatter and it remains composed on the big hits for a bike with 140mm of travel. That rear wheel feels like it has to work a touch harder because it is right underneath you, especially compared to the Stumpjumper EVO - the traction master. The rider's attention should be drawn to the Status' responsiveness rather than focusing on compliance. You do feel slightly on top of the bike, rather than "in" it, which does give you that leverage to pick the bike up off the ground and snap to get on the gas.
That extremely short rear center corners on a dime, but because so much of your weight hinges over the rear axle you have to put your weight a little lower and farther forward when you really start to open up things at high speeds, otherwise larger impacts on the front wheel can cause it to leave the ground. You might say that's more dependent on the rebound speed of the fork, but that slight shift in weight bias is a better compromise than slowing down the fork's rebound.
As for that Fox Rhythm fork, it actually performed above my expectations. I did tend to prefer a higher air spring pressure and the damper controls fairly open. Striking a balance between low speed support when diving into the corner and being a bit overbearing if closed much further on repetitive, high frequency bumps was a fine line. With that said, the Rhythm 36 can accept the highly regarded Grip2 damper should you want to puzzle away.
Clawing back at the Status' technical capabilities, the 29" front wheel and slack head angle do wonders for trucking over bomb holes, finding front wheel traction, and generally keeping the rider from going over the bars. The high BB setting is going to be for riders that want the most responsive ride for tricking jumps or need the clearance on slower, technical trails. If you're heading to the bike park for a chair lift or shuttle bump, the slacker setting only takes a second to flip the chip and will promote safer travels at high speed.
![photo]()
Call me crazy, but I would even be tempted to see what this bike would ride like with a 27.5" front wheel, especially for the super shredders out there that want the most responsive bike to tuck into steep landings and move about in the air. Obviously an external lower cup or raised crown race would be necessary to compensate for the smaller front wheel.
As a firm believer of n+1 being the perfect amount of bikes, I've always wanted to replicate the dual slalom bike I bodged together and used as my trail bike back in 2009, before dropper posts and wide range cassettes existed. It shouldn't come as any surprise that my time spent on the Status has resurrected my craving for slalom bikes, however, with much more versatility this time 'round.
Lately, I've been riding a lot of long travel 29ers that are absolute brawlers when the going gets steep and rough. Those bikes can have huge wheelbases which are safe and stable, but aren't the most responsive. As much fun as it is approaching downhill race speeds, taking a break from survival mode is refreshing and shredding the Status through turn tracks and jump lines is where it comes alive - basically the perfect tool to light up your Instagram reel with.
Small bumps are handled decently with minor feedback on the chatter and it remains composed on the big hits for a bike with 140mm of travel. That rear wheel feels like it has to work a touch harder because it is right underneath you, especially compared to the Stumpjumper EVO - the traction master. The rider's attention should be drawn to the Status' responsiveness rather than focusing on compliance. You do feel slightly on top of the bike, rather than "in" it, which does give you that leverage to pick the bike up off the ground and snap to get on the gas.
That extremely short rear center corners on a dime, but because so much of your weight hinges over the rear axle you have to put your weight a little lower and farther forward when you really start to open up things at high speeds, otherwise larger impacts on the front wheel can cause it to leave the ground. You might say that's more dependent on the rebound speed of the fork, but that slight shift in weight bias is a better compromise than slowing down the fork's rebound.
As for that Fox Rhythm fork, it actually performed above my expectations. I did tend to prefer a higher air spring pressure and the damper controls fairly open. Striking a balance between low speed support when diving into the corner and being a bit overbearing if closed much further on repetitive, high frequency bumps was a fine line. With that said, the Rhythm 36 can accept the highly regarded Grip2 damper should you want to puzzle away.
Clawing back at the Status' technical capabilities, the 29" front wheel and slack head angle do wonders for trucking over bomb holes, finding front wheel traction, and generally keeping the rider from going over the bars. The high BB setting is going to be for riders that want the most responsive ride for tricking jumps or need the clearance on slower, technical trails. If you're heading to the bike park for a chair lift or shuttle bump, the slacker setting only takes a second to flip the chip and will promote safer travels at high speed.
Does the Status remind you of the Enduro SX, or is it just me?
Call me crazy, but I would even be tempted to see what this bike would ride like with a 27.5" front wheel, especially for the super shredders out there that want the most responsive bike to tuck into steep landings and move about in the air. Obviously an external lower cup or raised crown race would be necessary to compensate for the smaller front wheel.
As a firm believer of n+1 being the perfect amount of bikes, I've always wanted to replicate the dual slalom bike I bodged together and used as my trail bike back in 2009, before dropper posts and wide range cassettes existed. It shouldn't come as any surprise that my time spent on the Status has resurrected my craving for slalom bikes, however, with much more versatility this time 'round.
Specialized Status 140
Santa Cruz Bronson
How Does It Compare?
You might wonder why I choose to compare the Specialized Status 140 against the Santa Cruz Bronson, two bikes that sit on either end of the pricing spectrum. The Bronson does sport 10mm more travel at each wheel, plus the materials differ; carbon versus aluminum. How they compare directly is that they are both purpose built mixed-wheeled bikes, and when I ventured out on either of these bikes, I found myself focusing less on tackling gnarly trails or pinning the straightest lines and more so looking to get creative on the sides of the trail, turning features I used to avoid into something to play with - up and around instead of straight through.
Both mullet bikes deal with bumps via different suspension designs, but have similar traits. The small impacts are noticeable, but the big hits aren't an issue and when asked to hammer on the cranks the power is delivered and not lost to soggy feeling suspension. As expected, the Bronson's carbon frame and wheel construction have more muscle in the big compressions, but not every rider will want such a firm ride. Either way, it's no surprise to hear that mixed wheeled bikes turn quicker than full 29ers and strike a balance between agility and composure.
Both the Status 140 and Bronson cast angles within a few tenths of each other at a moderately slack 64.2º and 64.7º, respectfully. Lowering the BB height of the Status drops that number to 63.7º, well below the Bronson, which only changes by 0.2º.
Reach numbers and BB heights don't stray too far away from one another either, but it's the chainstay length that really sets the Status apart. At 439, some 13 mm more than the Status, that rear center number makes the Bronson more comfortable in a wider range of riding segments - like an "all-terrain snowboard" whereas the Status reminds me of surfer-style board with their super-short tails and wide nose, for the least serious days out.
The new T9 rubber from Specialized makes a huge difference over the previous Black Diamond compound. Tried and true, the Butcher tread pattern offers a consistent feel to lean over and reach the side knobs. The braking traction also delivers, considering the Butchers are not front or rear specific.
Even with minimal adjustments, the Float X did an excellent job to keep the rear wheel tracking well.
Technical Report
Fox Float X: I've ridden the Float X on a few of bikes this year and have been impressed throughout the sample size. Although it's not as sensitive of a ride as the Stumpjumper EVO linkage, the Rx tune developed by Specialized on this Float X, suits the Status perfectly.
Specialized tires: The Butcher Grid Trail T9 label doesn't make deciphering the hot patch nomenclature any easier, but it is friendlier on your wallet. Listed for $70 USD, that saves about $20 over the equivalent Maxxis tire. This new rubber formula wears well and offers a predictable transition to the side knobs with consistent grip in both warm and cold climates. At 975 g, the carcass has been reliable and is decently supported in corners. A lot of the rider's weight is placed over the rear wheel of the Status which led to a few minor burps with pressures around 26 PSI.
Dropper post: Specialized's "S sizing" lets you choose a frame based on length, not seat tube height, but the S3 Status is deserving of a post with more than 150mm of drop. I had to raise the post about 40 mm above the seat post clamp to achieve a reasonable climbing position - a post with more drop would have eliminated this issue. Swapping to a quick-release seat clamp is a cheap solution for riders who don't have room in their budgets to upgrade to a longer travel post.
SRAM NX derailleur: I gave the SRAM NX derailleur a chance, but it wasn't quite up to the task of stretching across such a wide range cassette and the weak clutch could have been the reason for the paint damage on the chainstay. Without taking any hits, the derailleur developed a lean quickly and made tuning the shifts challenging, despite the hanger remaining straight. It may have made more sense for the NX range to be a 10 or 11-speed system that had less finicky indexing.
Fox Float X: I've ridden the Float X on a few of bikes this year and have been impressed throughout the sample size. Although it's not as sensitive of a ride as the Stumpjumper EVO linkage, the Rx tune developed by Specialized on this Float X, suits the Status perfectly.
Specialized tires: The Butcher Grid Trail T9 label doesn't make deciphering the hot patch nomenclature any easier, but it is friendlier on your wallet. Listed for $70 USD, that saves about $20 over the equivalent Maxxis tire. This new rubber formula wears well and offers a predictable transition to the side knobs with consistent grip in both warm and cold climates. At 975 g, the carcass has been reliable and is decently supported in corners. A lot of the rider's weight is placed over the rear wheel of the Status which led to a few minor burps with pressures around 26 PSI.
Dropper post: Specialized's "S sizing" lets you choose a frame based on length, not seat tube height, but the S3 Status is deserving of a post with more than 150mm of drop. I had to raise the post about 40 mm above the seat post clamp to achieve a reasonable climbing position - a post with more drop would have eliminated this issue. Swapping to a quick-release seat clamp is a cheap solution for riders who don't have room in their budgets to upgrade to a longer travel post.
SRAM NX derailleur: I gave the SRAM NX derailleur a chance, but it wasn't quite up to the task of stretching across such a wide range cassette and the weak clutch could have been the reason for the paint damage on the chainstay. Without taking any hits, the derailleur developed a lean quickly and made tuning the shifts challenging, despite the hanger remaining straight. It may have made more sense for the NX range to be a 10 or 11-speed system that had less finicky indexing.
Pros
+ Extremely playful bike that doesn't fit in a particular category
+ Suspension kinematics and Fox Float X make it a solid base to build upon
+ Specialized T9 tire compound is impressive, especially considering the price differential
Cons
- S3 frame needs a 170 mm dropper post
- NX derailleur lacks reliability
- Chainstay would benefit from Stumpjumper rubber frame protector
Pinkbike's Take
| Whether you want to join your friends and see what this whole mountain biking activity is all about without spending a load of cash or you are looking to update that tired freeride bike that was hot decades ago, the Status 140 is an affordable package with a ton of character. Riding baseline parts put things in perspective; once you have your basics like geometry, tires and suspension covered, more expensive components only get you small, incremental gains. Riders on the two largest sizes may find the super short chainstays unbalanced, but the rest of the geometry shouldn't hold you back from railing turns and cruising through jump lines. If you lean towards serious play time versus racing seriously, then the Status 140 is a worthy contender. |
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You can also add to slope, dj an free ride.. so make a list of all the DJ, slope a n free riders on 29........
I won't hold my breath
Please let this be the new trend. More BMX pros on MTBs are also welcome. We all came from BMX. Whose first bike was a road bike?
Was told just last week by the main S. shop in SA that for the upcoming shipments they are getting Status & Stumpjumper Evo alloy as frames only. Almost no full builds…
B) this is the state of the world currently. Stuff is slow to get made and slow to get where it's supposed to be. There are Status frames out there, just happen to not be where you are, yet.
Kind of wish the geo on the 160mm was closer to the 140mm version. 63.7° is the high setting and I still get pedal strikes like crazy. The bike is a blast to ride, but needs shorter cranks.
Full disclosure - I own a Canfield Balance as my only suspension bike and its absolutely stupid how versatile that 170mm alloy coil sprung mini-tank is...
Whoever chooses paint and graphics for Canefeild must be color blind... they got like 2 out of the 10 OK, the rest are just train wrecks... also they are heavy and short chainstays are not as great for tall people. Revel geo is lacking. So nomatter how great everyone who owns that linkage says they are I'm saying meh...
m.pinkbike.com/buysell/list/?q=Status&pmin=&pmax=&category=6®ion=3
Pick up new frame, ditch old one, cross border with little to no issue…..
Can confirm, works flawlessly
Good Luck
It's not a bad bike, a friend has the previous model. No issue with the NX derailleur also. The equipment is pretty decent. The only issue is the weight, its heavy af. Does otherwise pedals well, descends well, etc.
P.S. Was it 1600usd maybe and 1899 cad? Anyway, it was a f*cking good bargain!!
I wish I'd saved the page before it was taken down.
If I misunderstood what you're saying then it's not intentional.
The term "conflict of interest" describes an age-old practice, so it's never a mistake to look at what may be going on beyond the pale.
Perhaps we just see things differently when it comes to what people are willing to do for short-term gain (see all of recognized history). Best regards.
In the future, you should adjust your expectations based on this.
Everyone knows Deore is 10x better than NX, but bike brands can't count on Shimano right now for supply, so they stick with Sram's shitty offerings.
It is funny because I think GX is quite good... but NX is a massive step down in quality. While I find little difference between Deore and XT.
$1100 for a Stella and stores can't keep them in stock.
I'm guessing builders get a significant savings if they purchase everything for the bike from Sram (drivetrain, suspension etc), rather than Shimano, Fox and mixed stuff.
Shimano has more balanced grading system, although there are some question marks. For instance I do not understand the point of buying SLX rear mech over Deore, XT cassette and cranks over SLX, XTR brakes over XT. But if you buy stuff aftermarket you can make highly reasonable and well performing mix of things from Deore to XT without breaking a bank. Having11sp XTR I got myself XT shifter and Deore rear mech for the second bike. Quite honestly I do not feel the difference. I am only a sucker for XTR cassettes, light and shift like a dream.
Sram clearly know Shimano exist and how they make their products. They wouldn’t be spending all this time machining cassettes out of high grade steel when they could just put a sheet of mild steel in a hydraulic press and stamp out 100’s, if we’re to listen to the deluded shimano fanboys better performing cassettes for a fraction of the price. The reason they go this extra effort and expense is because it’s a vastly superior product hence why it sells so well when things like £99 XT cassettes exist.
@calmWAKI I disagree, I’ve missed our chats. Where have you been?
You work for SRAM or something?
Best mech on the planet is still the 2008 xo dh, shifts like a dream after 14 years, every part is replaceable and does not wobble even wihout clutch.
Deore and SLX and GX actually works.
The geometry makes this look like a bike for those riders to me. The combination of slack head angle, long reach, and short chain stays this bike has make it seem likely to need quite advanced body positioning that will make it better suited to those performance riders. I'd imagine a beginner rider, with a tendency to lean back too far, would be constantly washing the front end on something like this. I'm betting any release video Specialized put out will show it in the hands of advanced riders slapping turns, not beginners enjoying their first trail rides.
I feel it's more foregiving espeically in steep sections. The washout is a problem yeh, but much easier to manage than OTB stuff.
Reliable components, small rear wheel for clearance, and geometry that will resist OTBs were the driving factor in going for this bike over a stumpy. I think those reasons would be why it would make for a great entry level type bike- "safe" geo to start that will turn into fun/aggressive geo as you progress and be jibby and fun for someone that rides a lot. They also show that kind of riding for all their stumpy ads, so. I have ridden a bit and even though it is 2 sizes too small for me, it is a ton of fun. You are right about the larger sizes though.
@mattbeer did a superb job of explaining how the bike feels to ride (kudos Matt), and is obviously a very skilled rider, I wonder if he thinks the bike might be a bit lively for a beginner, as it sounds like it demands an assertive riding style?
I'm mentally referencing the Kona Entourage I briefly owned, which also felt like you were standing on the rear axle, cornered telepathically - but felt twitchy AF on rougher trails.
Anyway - I'd love to see Specialized develop a 170 / 180mm version with the Enduro's geometry.
All of this is plain conjecture on my part tho...
I mentioned the short chainstay may be a concern for the larger sizes. On the smaller frames, it will allow the rider to move the bike with ease. Newer riders are probably not pushing the limits of the tires just yet. The larger front wheel helps with the stability and traction, but ultimately adds confidence to push through the chunky stuff.
Cascade components: a job for you? Custom stays for status? Five CNC elements and two pipes?
Could not be happy with mine
Little tired of people saying bikes need longer CS when they should just buy one with longer CS. I personally would not buy a mullet but why complain about short CS on a mullet when the whole point is that the rear end is supposed to be smaller and more flickable.
EDIT: It's literally 15-20mm between "short" and "long" CS. Your CG needs to move a whopping TEN mm to stay centered. Why not deal with this and benefit from the shorter WB.
@sjma: Cog spacing is unrelated to driver interface.
* (only thing I could find at the time, but it's way better than SRAM's low-end, and lower cost!)
** (gotta have the XO1's extra hardening, GX chain is so soft it wears stupid fast)
My Speci Enduro also came with NX, it lasted 15mins and one bike park lap before it ended up in the spokes. Feels like a Shimano Altus from like 2004.
Grid Trail tires also aren´t up for the job with their paperthin tread base and just a tiny bit better sidewalls, but that´s probably normal for sub 1000g tires. You just shouldn´t spec "trail" tires on the 170mm Enduro...
I find it weird that a bike this playful comes with basic components. They only offer in one build kit and a lot of time you end up exchanging practically everything and upgrading.
So it begs the question; why not have it come with mid range components?
They'll sell out alright. Sell out of the couple hundred(MAYBE thousand if I'm being generous) initial stock worldwide. Then we all wait 2 years for a restock and once those that ordered these 18 months prior get theirs and pay for it, a new version will be released. And the endless cycle continues.
Cycling is becoming like the sneaker game, minus the obscene resale prices(for now).
So, I listened to that podcast, heard you guys mention it and not really explain anything. Then you guys started talking E-Bikes…
When E-bikes get mentioned, I lose interest in a podcast and really would like a mention of that in the title or maybe in the press
Release.
My comment still stands, I would like a podcast about Specialize’s ownership in pinkbike, moderated by a 3rd party like RC.
Also, please consider doing a E-bike only podcast.
^ As a Transition Scout owner, I can assure you it works.
These mini-enduro bikes are a blast and the Status is super well specced for the money. The alloy Scout w/ very similar build is a whopping $900 more.
Good luck getting anybody at corporate Specialized to answer your calls when you have a problem with the bike
Not everyone may have the same luxuries as you and have a bike shop or dealer close by. Some may be hours away from a bike shop. Think outside your bubble and look at it from different angles.
Both upgrades made the ride much more cushy for the "oh shit" moments while still maintaining its playful temperament. 10/10 would recommend
I have a status 160 that I plan on going 170 in the front, 27. 5 front wheel, then putting a 140 linkage in the back and swapping to 26.
- Bike availability for a new mid travel 27.5 bike in my area. I bought the bike with immediate intention of going full 27.5 instead of mullet.
- Experimenting with fairly progressive suspension so the bike wouldn't dive through its travel, yet having an excess of suspension as a insurance policy for rougher moments. While longer travel bikes have gotten more efficient, I like to think that bikes designed around smaller suspension are undoubtedly more efficient. If i long stroke a shock, or run a longer air spring on the front, I find smaller travel bikes more or less stay true to their efficient/snappy nature with the benefit of more suspension. Just my armchair opinion though!
Not sure what this bike is .
I know what's it's not.
Does slack and long work for slope style ? Hmmmm.
What's the Status of this bike?
Confused.
SS2
Or the better comparison is probably the Stumpy Evo Comp Alloy. Similar travel, almost identical spec, but the Status is $1,000 less.Thought they'd be more subtle about screwing the dealers.
I rode a nice carbon Canyon 150/60 and this bike rode so different over familiar trails. It just wanting to go up and slide sideways so I brought it right away.
It's my silly bike. Its a laugh to ride. It's not the lightest and not the best spec but it's cheap, strong and fun.
I'm not a beginner but I'm also not a racer.
I've upgraded a lot of parts but I money to do not spending it all on a higher end bike and I did it over time when I needed to/could.
I also went on a few bike holidays because I didn't just spend all my money them some on a new bike.
This review makes that length seem extreme, revolutionary and bizarre, when even a contemporary similar bike is only 1/2” different. (And I agree, 1/2” difference in chain stay is noticeable, but the superlatives used here....?)
And reach, wheelbase, and bottom bracket height are within 2-3 millimeters of dozens of 2021/2022 bikes. Whereas the reviewer calls out each of them as crazy and surprising.
I also know a bike is more than the sum of its numbers, and yeah, for sure I’d love to try one of these. But the idea this bike stands alone, designed for a new paradigm of biking, is..... odd.
Oh how I long for the days of Dirt Rag and what this sport used to be...
It is a ton of fun at downhills and it is surprisingly good at climbs.
If you have a limited budget and you cannot afford 2-3 types of bikes and you need a swiss knife type of bike, this is it.
I used to have an SX trail 2009 and I loved that bike, but it felt a little bit too bulky and blunt at climbs.
Later on I had a Propain Spindrift 2017 which was a better climber, but at downhill lines it was more about the attack and speed and it was not as funky as the SX was and also not as stiff as it was.
When I figured out there is a New status carrying the good old SX DNA with a modernized GEO coming as mullet from the factory it immediately caught my attention.
I eventually bought one and despite the NX groupset I immediately fell in love with the thing.
I dropped the NX derailleur and shifter after the first ride and swapped to Shimano (based on my past experiences with GX and NX groupsets).
The bike feels stiff, nimble, comfortable, long and stable from day0.
The suspension is in perfect balance too. Nothing disappoints.
This bike rides like heaven. It loves the dirft into corners and loves the air times. Very very funky and versatile and it is able to do pretty much anything.
It was hard to believe that some 'cheap bike' (at today's measures) can be this good (and a lot better than a high end Propain Spindrift).
But yepp. This bike is that good. And I am not a Specialized fanboy.
you can't build a Levo, Levo SL, stump jumper and Kenevo with any coil shock because it will break / leak in no time. shame to make a free-enduro bike build to ride anything but without having the possibility of a coil shock which is more reliable and more efficient ...
Much thicker on the new DHX Coil shock to fix the problem and make it stronger. Ohlins TTX coil works just fine on those Specialized bikes you mention.
I’ve raced enduro on it, flogged it at Revolution and Inners and taken it for some big moorland rides too.
Currently setup with a bomber coil and it feels unreal. I’d definitely get a VHS chain protector or similar. It’s a mint bike especially if you’re a S3 sized guy
Profile looks very similar to the Polygon Siskiu T8 I bought last year, but the Status is $500 more expensive - would love to hear people's thoughts on the differences. Looks like the status is better on fork (Fox 36 vs 34), shock (piggy-back vs no piggy back), brakes (SRAM Code R 200 vs Tektro with 180 rotors), and the status has a flip chip. Status also has 4-bar suspension vs linkage-driven SP for Polygon. On the other side, Polygon has SLX drivetrain and more travel on the dropper. Prefer the Status colours, but that's subjective.
I'm no expert on specs but my gut says the Status would probably be worth the extra $500 over the Polygon. Not that I could've afforded the extra $500 at the time, and it based on other comments the Status may not even be a great choice for a tall guy like me (short chainstays).
Based on the number of Pinkbikers who don’t break frames, parts or carry flat repair stuff, guessing their Instagram vids are just poorly dancing to bad country music in Kansas or Indiana.
Whats App; +1 (863)606-8347
www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPnP_zlYU44
He still needs to grow into it a bit, but given bike supply issues in general and SA at the back of the supply chain queues… Too good a bike to pass on if available…
I love my 140 status no doubt about it but my frame came w/a 160 manual and geo chart which made it a bit difficult to preorder other components like the front fork ATC and finding info anywhere else was SOL
Stack should be 50mm taller at least. From a small to xl, the riders might be over a foot different in height. But they only have the bars an inch and a half higher between sizes. Why do the tall people have to be all hunched over??? Maybe one day....
It's sad that it takes a bike change to encourage creative riding.
Example: shop where I bought my 27.5 Stumpy didn't stock _any_ non-29er mountain bikes, and the owner tried to tell me that no one bought 27.5. Well, yeah, if that's all they see, that's all they'll buy.
I'm actually quite happy it's coming back around, away from 29er everything, since that means there will be a better chance of quality 27ers, or dedicated mullets I suppose, available next time I need/want a new bike/frame. I'll never get a 29er rear wheel if I can help it, because I need the clearance way more than I need raw speed, and I appreciate frame design not being compromised in order to potentially fit a wagon-wheel in the back.
I'd likely still be on 26 if not for a theft. The last 26er Commencal Meta SX was quite modernish, and I had a nice build that could definitely hold up under me for a bunch more years. But alas, insurance paid (mostly) for a new 27er with pretty similar geo.
Oh, and NX? I'm staying out.
I was off by $1000 but I’m happy about that. Still very happy with my 160.
That's not "dialed", that's "best that could be done under the circumstances".
You just simply do not win anything by losing 20mm of travel.
Same Geo, same bike. Why not 160mm?
I have one Status 160.
And I believe the bike in the article is also a 160mm version.
As far as I know there was no Status with 140mm of travel in this maroon colour.
www.specialized.com/status
I meant the direct order part on the Specialized website is not available here…
Already secured one for my son…
Looking forward to him moving up to a larger bike.
Bike parks and shuttles don't have jumps to trick or technical trails? I think you mean the slacker setting is useful if you want to race down flow trails. And how does that relate with:
"you have to put your weight a little lower and farther forward when you really start to open up things at high speeds".
Slacker head tube means you'll have to move your weight even further forward relative to the bars at high speed to maintain that weight shift.
Is it just the shock length/stroke length or is the yoke different?
- S3 frame needs a 170 mm dropper post
- NX derailleur lacks reliability
- Chainstay would benefit from Stumpjumper rubber frame protector
- Mulleting the bike makes it look like a Penny Farthing
Aka, fork travel, then frame travel?
Then everyone would look at the bike weight, subtract whatever your "set pedal weight" is and add back their own pedal weight to figure out the bike weight.
OR we can keep weighting bikes without pedals since they aren't sold with pedals and we all pick our own pedals already?
And most are sold with pedals, albeit [heavy] plastic ones that most people will swap out, so just give the weight as sold.
the saddles, grips, stem spacers, bars are all SOLD WITH/ON/AS PART OF THE BIKE... so that's part of the SPEC and therefore part of the BUILD WEIGHT!!
Shop Bikes don't come from the factory with pedals in the box. Sure consumer direct bikes sometimes spec flat pedals, but even then MOST of the time those don't come in the box, but are added later pending you selecting the pedals during checkout for an additional cost.
Bikes don't come with helmets, chamois, gloves or shoes either. But the majority of us don't ride without them so should we add that on the bike weight too?
Currently have a 130/140mm 29er. Weights 28lbs with heavy tires and some other heavy stuff. If I really tried (don't really want to, though) I could it get it down to 27lbs or perhaps in the 26s. It handles most of my rides with exception of a few. That is why I would want a little more travel.