DH Bike Review: Atherton AM.200M.1

That means that the £8,400.00 price tag on the Fox suspension-equipped build that we tested can actually climb higher, should you want to choose your own tube lengths if one of the twelve sizes doesn’t suit you.

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Contents

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Frame Details

After first launching as a full 29er, Atherton Bikes' downhill frame is now available in a mixed-wheel configuration. From afar, the round tubes and basic triangles of all Atherton Bikes are straightforward. Up close though, there’s high attention to detail and durability.

The carbon tubes are cut to length and bonded into the titanium lugs with double shear lap joints. The additive manufacturing method of the lugs makes it simple to remodel their angles and tailor the tubes for each frame size. Those lugs also serve as ports for the internally routed cables that feed into guided tubes.

Two aluminum rocker links are CNC’d to reduce costs compared to the other boutique metal. Only one area of the bike uses threads to fix a component in place and that’s the BB shell. All others use threaded barrels or nuts, like at the post-mount brake boss and pivots.



Unsurprisingly, the hardware is well-finished and there is even a universal derailleur hanger at the dropout. Atherton has also considered the packaging of the linkage to deter mud from clogging up as the chainstay yoke forms its own mini-fender. Final touches include a fully rubber-wrapped chainstay guard and plastic downtube protector. Although it’s a simple add-on, I’d like to see a shuttle guard further up to protect your investment, and an additional brake hose clamp on the chainstay to reduce any rattling.

Atherton Bikes offers two types of finishes on their frames. All of the carbon tubes are first sprayed with a matte clear coat, then there is a choice of painting the lugs black or leaving the bare titanium exposed for an industrial look.

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Suspension Design

What looks like a traditional 4-bar suspension design with a basic rocker arm is complicated by the magic of the DW6 linkage behind the bottom bracket. The chainstay floats on two short links. Above the chainstay yoke, the upper link rotates counter-clockwise, as viewed from the non-drive in the video, while the lower turns in the clockwise direction.

Dave Weagle evolved the DW link to a 6-bar system with the idea of retaining a high anti-squat value while reducing chain tension further into the travel. Seb Stott broke it down perfectly when he spoke to Weagle during his Atherton AM.150.1 enduro bike review.

Controlling that progressive to linear suspension ratio is a coil-sprung trunnion mount Fox DHX2 Factory with a 75mm stroke length. Bearings housed in the link help to initiate the shock actuation by reducing friction and increasing longevity at that eyelet.

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Geometry


If you often find yourself in between bike sizes, then the Atherton line of bikes will pique your interest. Their online frame size calculator takes height, inseam, and arm dimensions into account for pointing you to one of twelve lengths. You can also speak to one of the experts at Atherton Bikes who will take your riding objectives into consideration as well, should those numbers look off.

The reach numbers span from 410 to 520mm in 10mm increments and the chainstays will vary in length too. Sizes 1 through 4 are built with 445mm chainstays. Those grow by 5mm on sizes 5-8 to 450mm, and finally the size 9-12 frames receive 455mm stays.

Should you want to go the custom sizing route, you can expect a longer wait time and tack on an extra £650 GBR.

Our AM.200M.1 test bike with mixed wheels, the stock geometry of the “Size 6” frame had a reach of 460mm and 450mm rear center with a 63-degree head tube angle.

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Specifications


Starting with a £4,300.00 GBR frame means a custom-built bike or either component package is for a seriously invested downhill rider. When you consider the elegant construction, small sizing gaps, and excellent DW6 suspension design, this is one premium downhill bike.

Two parts kits exist, the 200M.1 for £8,495 and the 200M.2 which comes in at £6,850. The more expensive of the two comes with Fox Factory suspension and Stans Flow MK4 wheels, which the team has chosen, plus SRAM Code RSC brakes and an XO1 DH shifting package.

On the 200M.2, you’ll find SRAM GX DH shifting and Code R brakes. Both kits use alloy Renthal controls, Continental Kryptotal tires, and a custom WTB Silverado saddle.

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Test Bike Setup


After a quick parking lot warm up, I questioned the 63-degree head tube angle as it felt much steeper than I anticipated. From there, I increased the fork to 88 psi and closed the rebound dials a few clicks. This proved to be more in line for the stance I was looking for.

The handlebar height was also much higher than I’d prefer. This setup gave the feeling that the grips were putting more downward force on the front axle than a forward force which is something I look for in a downhill bike. That provides confidence to attack into steep lines and push through rough compressions without feeling like the front wheel is sitting heavily underneath your hands.

A few outings later, I traded out the bars for ones with a 20mm rise and increased the stanchion height slightly. My digital inclinometer read out 62-degrees, although I still wanted that front axle further in front of me. I also dropped a psi in the fork and added a fifth-volume spacer.

Interestingly enough, I noticed a few contrary numbers to the bike that Rachel Atherton piloted to first place the Lenzerheide World Cup. At 70 kg and 1.7m tall, she was actually running her Size 6 frame with a firmer spring and softer fork than my preferred setup. Moving to a Size 7 frame with a 470mm reach might have been the better choice for me, but this style of design must work for some.

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Descending

Anticipation built around the first ride on the AM.200M.1 after seeing them in action on the downhill World Cup circuit. Not to discredit the Atherton team riders’ skills, but the AM.200M.1 displayed a magical way of sticking to the ground over bumps and not disrupting the riders’ balance.

Out of the gate, the suspension lived up to the hype - holy moly was it active, but not in a disconcerting, overly-progressive manner. This DW6 system is incredible. It just performed perfectly, over any terrain, and at any time, whether you’re on the brakes or not.

Seeing the team riders use the OChain active spider to isolate chain forces doesn’t come as a surprise because I’d wager that they are looking for every possible solution to forget about the impacts their bike is taking, but the DW6 suspension frees up the chain tension massively. The best way to describe it is like a chain-less Horst-link design.

At the beginning of the travel, it’s sensitive without plummeting deep past the sag mark. The progression is predictable and seems to come on early, instead of ramping too late and hard. The bike stays high in the travel to offer support to push against and generate speed too. Churning over the crankarms also produces instant speed. It’s certainly not sluggish to sprint away on or cumbersome to pump through rollers either.

When you do get on the binders, the geometry doesn’t falter by pitching forward from the braking forces and becoming steeper, like some Horst-link bikes can be guilty of. As a rider who stands tall on the bike and is more prone to those effects due to an upright position on the bike, I appreciate the settled, and active braking characteristics.

This isn’t a frame that will rattle you to death as you hold on through miles of braking bumps either. Maybe there’s something to those round tubes that reduces the vibrations. I thought some of that could come from the alloy wheels, so I chucked on a set of Reserve DH wheels to compare. Those added a fair bit of stiffness through the corners but I never felt any harsh feedback through the frame itself.



All of the cables that feed into the internal guides remained nearly rattle free, with the one exception of the brake hose along the chainstay. I noticed Rachel’s bike had an extra piece of rubber tape here and along the drive-side, adding another level of damping to the frame. A zip tie took care of the little noise that the brake hose produced, and despite the chainstay protector looking on the thin side, I never noticed any noises from the chain slapping around.

As much as I loved how the suspension was taking care of business behind me, I thought the geometry could stretch out further. Entering steep corners wasn’t so much of an issue, since the bike was plenty maneuverable, but when it came to blown out, high speed berms, I had the feeling that the front wheel wanted to tuck in and was less predictable than the longer, slacker bikes I’d been accustomed too.

I mentioned earlier on how I experimented with the fork pressure, bar height, and even backed off the rear shock’s low-speed compression to help the bike tip back and relax. I bet I’d gain more confidence with the front axle further away from my feet, whether that would be from a longer reach, slacker head angle, or possibly both, is another question.

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Technical Report

WTB High Tail saddle: Given what the Atherton family heritage has accomplished in the mountain bike world, I too would stamp the name all over the machine we'd created too. When moving around the bike though, I found the width to be a touch on the large side and would personally look for a saddle that's slightly narrower. However, I appreciated a bit of extra cushion to rest on and the rounded nose that slopes out of the way.

Renthal Traction Lock-On UltraTacky grips: Have you ever picked up someone else's bike and thought about how many hours of sweat and dirt have broken them down to a gooey mess? That's what these felt like right out of the box. The rubber is also quite thin and the plastic sleeve underneath can be felt on impacts. I love soft, tacky grips, especially Renthal's push-on options but these felt too gross to bear and didn't accompany me on the inaugural ride.

Stan's Flow MK4 wheels: Throughout the 200M review the alloy wheels saw their fair share of sideways landings and sharp edges in the bike park and on other shuttle tracks. There did come a point where the spoke tension became noticeably softer and required a parking lot true, but the rims themselves never suffered any dings. Occasionally, I'd hear the odd pop of a freehub pawl missing an engagement point but they never failed.

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Which Model is the Best Value?

Well, if you’re eyeing up any of the Atherton bikes, I’d wager that you have decent disposable income and you may as well go for the premium build kit, or grab a frame and build your own dream bike.

The 200M.2 isn’t a cheap bike either, but I think if you’re in the market for this bike, you want all the fixing. Both the suspension and brakes and worthwhile upgrades with unarguable performance benefits of workmanship and adjustability.

Even though I had my reservations about the stance of the Size 6 test bike, opting for a custom frame or stepping a size up might solve this hiccup.

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How Does It Compare?

It’s wild how incredibly close the geometries of these two beautifully crafted bikes appeared on paper and yet how opposite they rode. On paper, they have virtually the same head angle and wheelbase at 63 degrees and 1280mm (when the Darkmatter was set up with mixed wheels). The AM.200M.1 has 5mm less BB drop and a chainstay that is 8mm longer, but keep in mind that the Darkmatter has a rearward axle path.

Combined with a firmer suspension feel off the top of the travel, that lengthening chainstay makes the Darkmatter slightly less compliant and manevaurable at lower speeds.

Both bikes eat square edge hits and stay glued to the ground when mobbing straight down battered trails. Under braking, they both grip well but the 200M slightly edges out the high pivot machine.

The standout difference between them is the high-speed stability and trust in the front wheel. I always felt like the front end of the 200M was too high and upright for my liking.

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Pinkbike's Take

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Reviews and Tech Reviews DH Bikes Atherton Bikes Atherton Am200m1