Descending The reach-stack balance I mentioned before is equally important here, and the cockpit changes continue to set things in the right direction. Raising your bars doesn't fix everything though, so expect a riding position that is hard over the front, except perhaps on the smallest couple of sizes. That front-heavy weight bias has upsides and downsides, the former of which manifests in solid grip on that front wheel, so long as you're committed.
The downsides are a little more plentiful, as it can be hard to find the right balance point on the Darco. I think the relatively short chainstays (per the long reach) have a lot to do with this, as it can be hard to feel like your weight is in the right place between the front and rear wheel at times, making for a slightly sketchy feeling ride. At times I found myself getting too deep over the front in corners, or too far off the back in repeated deep compressions. The disparity between front and rear travel probably plays a role too, so riding the Darco more like a hardtail can alleviate some of that confusion. That said, a hardtail is eminently predictable in the fact that the rear wheel never moves, where the Darco's back end is obviously a bit more mobile than that.
Luckily the kinematic on the Darco is fairly predictable, even though it moves through travel fairly easily. The high leverage allows the bike to break into travel very easily, providing great grip and a comfortable feel over small chattery terrain. Deeper through the cycle there's enough support for pumping and preloading jumps, without any weird movement or sudden spikes in the platform it provides. The Darco takes the edge off the biggest hits, though I found myself running into the end of travel with some frequency. The shock definitely handles things better with 2 or 3 (the maximum) volume spacers installed, so remember to experiment with that element if you're keen on the Darco life. It's okay to give that bottom-out bumper a workout, but the clunk at full bottom can be a bit disconcerting when you're pushing the bike hard.
The characteristics of the Darco may not be my daily bread and butter, but they do handle certain terrain very well. In Bellingham, I found the most fun when riding the Darco on high speed flow trails, which are plentiful in our area. In those settings, the long reach and slack head angle add a ton of stability, and the short rear end matters a bit less as you're not fighting for traction or balance in the corners, instead just leaning the bike and looking ahead. The predictable nature of the back end feels great on jumps, and the quiet nature of the frame keeps rattle to a minimum.
I spend a lot of time in Squamish aboard the Darco as well, and despite its shortcomings it's definitely a bike you can push. Steep lines and rock rolls are aided by the solid rear-wheel grip, and although the front and rear don't feel terribly balanced together, you're not thinking about that when all you're doing is aiming for a catch pocket at the bottom of a slab.
Overall the ride is certainly unique, and I can appreciate that in a world where many bikes can feel the same. If I were to buy a Darco for myself, I'd certainly go with the next size down, as the M/L is far more in keeping with my typical fit preferences. The team at Chromag, as well as their fit chart, were quite certain the Large was the size for me, but I think the über-long reach isn't the ticket for the type of riding I like to do.
My xl raaw madonna with continental dh tires and a coil shock is still roughly 38lbs, where are you getting the extra 9 lbs?!
My next bike is gonna be a .... I don't know yet.
Still one of the most fun and memorable bikes I've owned though.
You could build up a REALLY sick hardtail for $5800 or a mid-budget XC and a mid-budget Trail hardtail for that much - like SLX drivetrain level on both.
This is a weird bike that I kinda wanna ride to see what it's about
And it cost 3k
If I sold it, I might just want to try the cascade link.
For those who have the link, how is the climbing? I love the way the Optic climbs. Got long gravel hauls and chunky single track to deal with in my neck of the wood.
I'm 6'2" and I ended up on the XL size. The reviewer seems preoccupied with the published reach numbers. Geo charts only tell part of the story. Yes, the reach is long, but the general fit is really appropriate and comfortable for long pedally rides (I live in Colorado with long climbs and long downhills). I would have NEVER imagined riding a 530mm reach, but it honestly isn't that crazy in the context of the overall geo. Also, The reviewer didn't really mention that the steel ride quality really does shine. It's much different that your average carbon Wunder bike. Yea, it's a little heavier, but my stock Xl weighs in at 35 llbs. Im not sure where the extra weight in the review is coming from. Sure, its still heavy, but it still climbs pretty well due to the geo. My favorite terrain for this bike is in the desert i.e., Sedona, moab etc. Chunky tech stuff. Anyway, I enjoyed the article but I think it was reveiwed a bit harshly, Ok thats all.
I think its sexy af and much cheaper than the REEB with funner geo.
Reading this review I was just thinking how fun it would be to review a new bike without being fed geo numbers, then going back to it after getting the details.
But most people just see a long reach and don’t look/think any further.
Reeb
Cotic
Zoceli
Ferum
Moxie
Myth
Maddness
Pipedream
Contra
Willwood
I'm sure there are tons of other small builders out there as well
This bike is special ! Something Magic is happening here the bike is very aggressive for a small travelish bike , yes it punches above its weight( which is not light , mine is 35 lbs with tools and a co2) but once you unlock it is when the magic happens . I ride this bike on everything in the sea to sky mainly Pemberton and ya it’s been in the park too . 4130 lovers and all steel fans this bike rips !!! And yes it rides slow tech stuff very well ya it’s not light and ya it’s slack and longer than a tall girls legs but like I said there is some Magic happening here !
If anyone is in Pemberton and wants to take one fii or r a ride hit me up ! Peace out
It rides better than the similar Norco Optic, doesn’t feel as bottomless as a Forbidden Druid (both similar in rear travel).
Everything has held up great. Better than some hunk of plastic imo.
I bet it would do great with the damper body on the super-deluxe swapped for the HBO version.
Similarly priced Spur literally weighs almost 10lbs less than this. Cool bike idea, but the actual number of riders good enough to utilize it is pretty small
Btw: How is that we see Banshees tested on other sites, but I can´t remeber a single review here on PB?
In the world where just about everyone drives dumbed out SUV with automatic transmission, lane keep assist, this and that,… there are still ppl who love their clapped out manual cars….
Usually I can jump on a medium (even a M fugitive isn't too far out from the M/L Doctahawk for reach etc) and not be really bothered about small changes like stem length. It took me a long time to find the right stem/bar/spacer heights until it was dialled in but now that it is, the M/L makes a lot of sense and is poppy as hell but still able to eat up as much gnar as I want to contend with while feeling planted.
I get the feeling this will be the same with the Darco and probably the Lowdown in that they will still need to be really driven at the front end hard and finding that zone where you're forcefully pushing into that front end may take some more time than usual.
Interesting. I’m 5’8”… originally had a medium Primer. Was talked into a m/L doctahawk back in 2019 and boy of boy do I enjoy it. Took me awhile to get the cockpit sorted on my low/longer reach bike, but once I did, POW! Unreal. Haven’t even thought about getting a different bike. Have had the same frame/Geo for 4 years and love it
There is Select+ basic suspension and decent drivetrain and the price doubles last field test bikes - how it can be called very well sorted?
You forgot like 14 extra "very". That's SO dumb.
Strong disagree, based on the numbers. Above 100% anti-squat at sag means getting on the power for a climb or sprint will stand-up/extend the rear suspension, and the more it stands up the more the AS tries to stand it up more. This is only really good for traction when it's pretty flat/smooth, since the stood-up suspension isn't going to let the wheel easily move up and over things when the power is on, and rarely called "active".
Having a different leverage ratio and damper tune acting on the shock could in fact make this bike find more traction on climbs where other 120mm bikes do not.
As does anti-squat around 100%. When on the power, it counters the rearward weight shift and the "squat" of the rear suspension, similar to a climb switch but via a different mechanism. In fact, AS above 100% should cause the suspension to fully counter the rearward weight shift _and_ extend the suspension a bit, making it take more force to move into the travel. That's not usually called "active". If that's not happening on this bike, if the rear is actually "more active and traction-oriented setup than you'd expect of a 120mm bike", then perhaps the AS numbers need recalculating. Or the expectation of "a 120mm bike" needs re-evaluation, because it's not like _every other_ 120mm bike has like 150% or more AS and stands up like a scared cat when on the power.
I've ridden other bikes with claimed numbers like this (including some 120mm), and I would not really call them active, and I'm not seeing them called especially active in reviews. Often they are labeled as "efficient". More active than something with a ton more AS, yes; but that's like saying a Focus RS is slow compared to an F1 car: true, but it's true for pretty much everything!
Wouldn’t a >100% anti-squat promote traction in situations by forcing the contact patch into the ground? A 100% or lower Anti-squat would just compress. Even If you added a firm efficient shock it still couldn’t do what the higher anti-squat does. It would just feel more like a hardtail. Efficient power transfer but less traction. With that in mind you have to see that a higher than 100% anti squat combined with an otherwise more compliant suspension would be a good recipe for traction but it would not necessarily be efficient.
Your arguments have done nothing to make me feel any different. It just feels like you don’t want to be wrong.
"A 100% or lower Anti-squat would just compress."
An idealized 100% AS should not compress: it counters weight shift from acceleration exactly. It also shouldn't bob much, since there is no difference in the net forces on the suspension between power impulses.
Less than 100% doesn't "just compress", it simply doesn't fully counter the weight shift, so the bike squats-in (some) under acceleration. This is seen as "inefficient" since the suspension moves a bit before the power goes to the ground, but the same happens with greater than 100%, it's just the other way: AS more than counters the weight shift, so the bike stands-up instead of squatting-in, but it still is going to have to move the suspension before the full power gets to the ground.
With above 100%, it might seem like the wheel is being driven into the ground more, but the weight on the wheel doesn't really change, since the weight shift from acceleration is the same (given same weight and accel), just the reaction of the suspension is different. In fact, allowing it to squat-in would load the rear more, since compressing only the rear suspension will by itself shift weight to the rear wheel. Less than 0% anti-squat would be only way that the wheel is actually pulled away from the ground.
The concern I’d have with this bike is how many rear shocks would get destroyed. If this bike is driven as hard as it’s built for, it’ll be clanging off the bottom out bumper-a lot. Chromag should have upped the rear travel OR built the bike around less fork.
On something like a regular Stumpjumper, Ripley or a Ripmo that gets ridden hard, HBO does allow for better tuning though.
The travel imbalance just means the back end is going to need to be set up firmer than the front. It's always going to have a unique ride quality, but I can't see how it would endanger the shock or why it should even bottom out a lot.