Frame Details I know what you’re thinking: the RocketMAX is another steel single-pivot from the U.K. And to be fair the Cotic is… well, at least the front triangle. The Reynolds 853 steel tubing is welded and painted in the UK by Five Land Bikes, while the seatstay and alloy chainstays are manufactured in Taiwan.
First, Cotic forms the top tube into an oval shape to add stiffness, and Reynolds 853 and the heavy-duty downtube are exclusive to Cotic. I was surprised that the bolt-on shock mount wasn’t modular like we’ve seen on Starling’s steel full-suspension bikes, which would allow for geometry tweaks. After chatting with Cotic owner, Cy Turner, he explained that while it may work for shocks driven solely by a single pivot, their 'droplink' suspension layout is sensitive to a position change, and sliding that mount in any other orientation would disrupt the suspension kinematics too much for their liking.
Like most steel frames these days, a 44mm tapered headtube uses an external lower headset cup, whereas the top is semi-integrated for a lower stack height. A 35mm seat tube supports the droplink rocker arm to add progression as the swingarm pushes on the shock. A pinch bolt clamps down on that link and the Gen4 frame now uses a hex-shaped pivot axle to retain stiffness. In my eyes, integrated clamps look ultra-tidy and I would appreciate the same construction applied to the top of the seat tube too, rather than a bulkier alloy option.
Before we go any further, let’s talk about the elephant in the room: the water bottle cage rests under the downtube where it gets sprayed with dirt. Under the top tube are more bosses to mount a tool or tube, but there's not enough room for a water bottle. Yes, it’s a minor inconvenience that I dealt with by easily removing the lid. As long as the spout is closed, the crap won't get in and it’s not like it stays as clean as a whistler on the top of the downtube either. You’ll have to be mindful when loading the bike onto a tailgate pad so as to not snap off the cage.
These pivot bolts protrude a little too far. Although I never clipped my heels on them while pedaling, I tagged my shins from time to time when hiking the bike uphill.
Storing the water bottle under the downtube just meant I had to spray the dirt off first or twist the cap completely off. The location isn't ideal and it was trickier to reach on the fly, but at least it's there.
Moving to the rear of the bike, the chainstay is built from forged 6066-T aluminum to reduce twisting under loads while staying in slim packaging that maximizes tire clearance. A Syntace axle keeps things tidy without the need for extra pinch bolts. Where the seatstay pivots on the chainstay, there are bolts that do protrude outwards past the tube profile. This didn’t pose any mechanical mishaps, though the chain can ping off of these bolts, as well as your shins when walking beside the bike. A sleeker execution and smoother shape would be welcomed.
Speaking of appearances, the cable routing is a mix of external on the front triangle that are held down by some clever clamps; only the dropper post cable runs inside the front triangle. On this build, I didn’t need to fuss with the routing through the stays since it came loaded with SRAM’s AXS electronic shifting. Only the shift housing passes through the seatstay since the brake line remains outside along the top of the chainstay.
For some?? Who doesn't like a good sip of muddy grainy water while riding
If you love getting loose and steezy there's no better bike to do it on than a COTIC. I've ridden Revel's, Trek's, and Specialized trail/enduro rigs but always come back. 853-steel is surprisingly light and dumb strong, leading to lots of carefree crashes in the woods(if you're into that). The suspension linkage, in my case, also lends itself to encouraging as much "off the brakes" time as possible. I find that the rear wheel jacks up a bit more than some bikes under braking, but when off the brakes you can experience a "bottomless" travel sensation and controlled grip no matter the kind of terrain. Anyways, I'm super biased. I'm sure there are bikes that ride better and faster without compromise, I just happen to like my Cotic.
I can relate to Cotic bikes really letting you get off the back and digging your heels in, and surviving gnarly steep terrain without too many death grip moments.. Nice review!
Or just get a hip pack that takes a bottle like the Camelback flowbelt. *shrugs*
ridegg.com/blogs/dispatch/dampening-not-damping
I love having a bottle in the triangle for shorter rides, but don’t love the horrific damage that down tube belly gets on bigger 2-4 foot ledge-up moves.
Last couple of bikes have I’ve owned accommodated a bottle, so I use one. I’d still buy this and always grab the ass bag if I had to. And beat up my bike less on the ups.
It’s a compromise either way.
@redrook Right now, there is almost no competition in the MTB world. People buy what bikes they can get.
And it's not like frames need to be this heavy. Scott, Specialized, Giant, Liteville and Last show that strong frames don't need to be heavy. It's just that most companies don't bother. They don't need to, because customers don't care enough.
The reasons why everyone doesn't have a superlight frame are pretty clear, since companies have to balance what's possible with what's economical for people to buy. Sure, they could all be incredibly light and strong, but they'd also be incredibly expensive to produce and therefore buy.
Also I'm not sure why all the fuss about single pivot. It's a link-driven single pivot, an incredibly common layout and something you'll find on a ton of bikes right now ie Kona Process, Commencal Meta, Devinci, Trek (technically they're split pivot but same same), and I don't recall anyone ever being concerned about those bikes being too 'simple'.
Single pivot without linkage is stiff? Come on...
Let's compare apples to apples, clearly I meant the meta.
My point remains, lots of high performance single pivot bikes out there.
VPP is not 'basically a single pivot' in any way.
Now I have an S.Enduro and it is a really easy bike to setup with more range in the settings than any off my past bikes.
Have the chance to ride back my last bike for a few moments weeks ago and I would never would go back or miss that suspension kinematics hehehe. But I love the way steel frames looks,big names could do a steel bike again with more involved suspension designs.
No it absolutely does not. VPP is, as the name alludes to, a virtual pivot. The two counter-rotating links mean that the instant center moves as the suspension cycles and is very much the opposite of a single pivot. Do some reading on suspension designs.
Steel frame and floating pivot designs are not mutually exclusive - ie there are floating pivot steel bikes, much the same as there are aluminum/carbon single pivot link driven bikes. My point was I feel like the "steel bike single pivot" thing was driven home for shock value more than anything else.
Shock is key in a single pivot bike,totally agree. In other designs a bad shock or a not so good tune could be decent,but not so in a single pivot bike.
Love to see more carbon/steel frames,narrow front triangle looks amazing to me. I remember photos of an Evil bike rear end on a custom steel frame from not so long ago,what a lovely bike!
Not a team as such but Iago Garay does reasonably well as well as a handful of other riders. Obviously SC Syndicate is legendarily successful
www.santacruzbicycles.com/files/vpp_axlepath_img2.jpg
More material does not mean its stiffer. It depends more where this material is.
The fact that the instant center moves as it cycles is the exact thing that separates VPP from a single pivot. If you don’t understand that then I don’t know what else to say but trust me when I say that you ARE wrong.
@notthatfast: yes I’m well aware that the pivot point can migrate as the suspension moves through its travel if that’s how the twin links are configured again you haven’t answered my question.
frames no matter the material flex way beyond the lower class bearing can allow, in fact frame or swing arm flex can be measured in mm even cm's when under load.
now go sell your woo to someone dumber.
The difference between single pivots (regardless of linkages to drive the shock) and all the other designs is that the pivot point does not move.
All four (or more) bar designs have a virtual pivot point that moves through the travel - it doesn’t matter if they’re long (Horst etc) or short (VPP, DW, etc) link designs.
Split pivot etc are halfway between the two, like the former under pedalling but the latter under braking.
By your definition every possible combination of bars, pivots, sliders, belts, springs, and rollers is "basically a single pivot". The statement is so broad as to be meaningless.
All you've demonstrated is that you don't know what you're talking about.
meanwhile arrogant? that's ad hominem and what people who don't have a legit argument resort to. also, people talking out of their ass don't get to be arrogant.
and one big bearing will sure af have less play and flex than 2 bearings.
with a single pivot there's only one pivot and no links between the frame and the bearing. one piece stuff is stiffer than 2 piece stuff because there are less non rigid parts in it.
what's stiffer, a telescoping pole or a one piece pole?
What od stiffer? A front triangle built of down tube and top tube, or just single tube joining head tube with seat tube?
and single broad stay can be plenty stiff.
that's called crazymaking and is what narcissists, sociopaths and gasligters do. get offline and see a shrink, troll.
SC is a single pivot because ypu said so?! Ffs remind them how wrong they are with your thesis on suspension engineering
Just stop dude.
@notthatfast: again absolutely nothing to contribute, don’t post until you have something to say.
Here’s a better diagram to help you under how a vvp system works and rotwild has a very good description on their webpage. Well worth a read.
i.ytimg.com/vi/wK9xY7Rfy5k/maxresdefault.jpg
There's no such a think as a virtual single pivot, if there are more links than one holding the swing arm it's multilink. No virtual, no imaginary.
And I'm still waiting for that thesis
Every dual short link design is a four bar design. It’s interesting to note that you haven’t separated long link four bar designs into co- and counter-rotating types, as hanging upper link counter-rotating designs are more similar to linkage driven single pivots than they are to co-rotating four bar designs, whilst dual short link designs like DW and KS link sit more in the middle.
If you want to understand this then you need either draw it out and read and understand the theory behind linkage modelling or spend hours playing with the software until it makes sense.
Most bike journalists don’t get it. Most marketing departments don’t get it. Most MTBers without relevant education don’t get it. But some will argue about it because they know too little to understand how little they know.
Not sure what @thenotoriousmic means by the term, he or she certainly does not appear to know what they are on about. Makes for good entertainment tho.
I don't think we can keep lumping certain bikes or styles in with certain materials only. All the materials are awesome to use and some have better applications in particular areas of the bike. We have to be mindful we aren't trying to produce space shuttles or F1 cars. We just want to produce great riding bikes. That can be achieved in a few different ways and can be different for everybody. None of the choices devalue what is a choice for anyone else really It's just different.
It's clearly going to be a talking point on a steel framed bike, so why not be specific about it and save us all the guess-work in the comments?
It's not even hard to find out on a bike like this that's available as a frame-only option - I'm sure Cotic can tell you exactly what it weighs if you ask them!
*I'd love see how the longer numbers (reach, chainstay length, wheelbase) on this would fair against my current ride which shares the same HA/SA and fr/rr travel
**That is what I run 98% of the time and that's plenty for a sub 2 hour ride even in the sweltering southern US heat. Saw a guy on a Cotic at my local trail recently. They are rarity here as I'd never seen one irl.
I replied to a post above, but I checked the CAD and you could flip the Kitsuma on the C2 and clear everything, making room for a reasonable sized bottle.
"Thanks Bro, its a C3. I was gunna go for the C4 but CY talked me out of it."
"oh, ok."
I do find my calves rub on the droplink under heavy cornering - a rubber cover for these would be incredible
I see why single pivot,but whit full alloy rear end they could made more intricate suspension designs.
Best thing ridding steel is the sound little rocks made in the downtube. I have now a dirt jump bike only made from steel,but I was looking at the Cotic Flaremax.
I hope more brands made bikes like you,good steel front end and alloy or carbon rear end,makes sense.
Frame weight isn't all that important on a bike likely to have Cushcores and double casing tires installed on both wheels. With a reasonable (for bike stuff) price and what sounds like excellent support/setup advice this would be a good choice for a privateer racer looking for a burly race bike.
Also would be cool to see reviews for 29er bikes that incorporate DIY tweaks like mulletizing and seeing how the geo / handling changes.
That's quite a deductive leap there. There are so many other variables: Same average leverage rate? Same starting or ending leverage rates? Same sag recommendation? Same shock with the same settings? Same spring? Same fork (yes, how the fork acts can have a quite noticeable impact on how the rear acts) with the same settings? Same frame geo? Same ride position?
So many things can affect bottoming out, just citing a couple tenths difference in the respective change of leverage rates tells so little of the story it's really not worth mentioning.
The stack was slightly high feeing as well
5’10 & 33 inseam. Tried a large v2 and medium v3 with a few different seatposts Great cornering memories
Cheers Cy
I came close to ordering a Cotic Jeht at the end of last year just because I can sometimes be a sucker for alternative offerings. However, being relatively new to mountain biking I decided to play it safe, ending up with a carbon Ripmo that I bought through a shop. Cost was roughly the same. I have to say, though, that after seven months the Ripmo has failed to endear itself to me. Buyers remorse has me wondering if I should have lived a little more dangerously and went with the Cotic!
I don't know, maybe for size C1. But I think that a 448mm chainstay is great for a bike with 462mm reach
I'm thinking it's not gonna pedal that well (surely anti-squat has to suffer on this CS length), but will be more composed on the descents. There's not many comparable bikes out there, anyone with more experience to share on this?
Thanks for the replies, great to hear from people in the know!
I suspect the bike weight has been kept down with the questionable choice of G2 brakes and "trail" wheels, as well as high-end drivetrain bits.
Personally I'd absolutely want the "enduro" wheels and some meatier brakes on this bike (which I'm sure is awesome to ride based on my experiences of other Cotic FS models).
Also, I'm surprised @mattbeer holed the front Verdict, that's not really a "light" tyre at all and mine's been superb (with an insert). The "tough" WTB carcasses are hard graft on the front.
What exactly are those preconceived notion that should be thrown out? They don't corner or descend? Didn't realize anyone was saying that. You also directly attributed the head angle and the shock as contributing to the cornering and descending prowess, but those have nothing to do with the single-pivot or steel nature of the bike.
I don't think anyone is saying one can't "get away with" a given ride style on single-pivots or steel, just that they have a different feeling. It's impossible to make a single-pivot feel the way some multi-link systems do, and even if the SPs can "get away with" the same stuff, it's a different feeling. And while frame flex is a kinda personal thing so some will like/want it and some won't, steel frames just can't really keep up with stiffness and maintain reasonable against other materials, where-as some of those other materials can be made almost as compliant and maintain a competitive, if not lower, weight.
So, my preconceived notions are that steel is relatively flexy, or heavy, or both (that's not necessarily bad, but it is true), and single-pivots cannot provide the same feel as multi-links (again not bad, but true), and despite what this bike can "get away with", it's not going to change those notions.
Why would someone want to add spacers to the shock to limit the travel? Loads of companies are selling this as a feature these days, however as has been asked by many different people in many different comment threads, why would you want to?
You are talking about the forks. My question was about the shock. Why would anyone ever want to limit the shock stroke? The way the bike rides will be completely unaffected, other than it will bottom out unnecessarily.
It seems like you are trying very hard to avoid actually answering the question. What is the actual advantage of putting a spacer in your shock to make the rear end bottom out sooner than is necessary? How will the bike ride better, because an extra bit of plastic has been added to the rear shock, and how is this a feature?
If you want the firmer ride feel, just run the longer stroke shock a bit firmer, there is no need to limit the travel. And doing so offers absolutely no advantages whatsoever. It just makes the bike objectively worse. The marketing spiel should actually read "the bike is quite good, and if you want you can make it less good! Thats a great feature isnt it?"
I agree with @cotic-bikes, shortening your travel doesn't make the bike "less good". It makes it feel different - how good that is depends on the rider and the terrain.
But to be clear where my stance is, (and I believe this to be an objective truth) if you take a frame design that is capable of producing X amount of travel, and you limit its ability to do that by adding travel reducers to the shock, you have made your bike less good. There is absolutely no advantage to be gained through bottoming out earlier than necessary. It is essentially the same idea as buying a car with a 90L fuel tank, but only ever filling the tank half way. You are just making your life less good, for no advantage.
"Most" travel spacer are pretty small compared to "most" volume spacer. You have an example of one that noticeable reduces volume and travel together? On some (many? most?) travel reduceable shocks the shorter lengths actually allow more volume spacers because the ending pressure just doesn't get as high, so there is just less spring rate at bottom out for a given pressure. Yes, pressure will probably go up to get the lesser sag on a shorter overall travel, but that's just a few psi to get 1 or 2 mm less sag, not gonna make a huge difference at bottom out unless volume spacers are added as well.
And how about on a coil?
I think you need to get a life.
Would you care to provide some actual input, or are you just one of those people that likes to say irrelevant stuff just so they can feel like they are taking part?
Yes, it is personal preference and you can {and will) argue all you want but that doesn't make it wrong.
Fitting the wrong shock to your bike is personal preference yes. You can put your tyres on backwards and your brake levers upside down too. It's all personal preference, but that doesn't make it right.
Of course you can, but it's a terrible idea.
If the 65mm stroke shock is actually the same shock as the 60mm, just with a travel limiter, how exactly is the spring changing?
E=Mtb²
I thought the fascination with head tube angle as a singular number of import was on the way out. Since what you're actually a fan of is a certain (long) front center, that's what's making the rowdy steeps fun. FC is connected to HA, and reach, and wheelbase; but none of those alone, including HA, can really tell you much. Could have a super slack HA but a tiny reach, FC, and WB, and it still wouldn't be what you want for rowdy steeps. Which bring us to:
"If you’re interested in running a 27.5” rear wheel ... by installing a 1-degree altering headset, the resulting geometry reduces the reach and seat tube angle slightly, while retaining the head tube angle."
Who cares if the head angles match to the nearest 10th of a degree? That option also takes 11mm out of the front center and the wheelbase, and that's going to make a bigger difference than just changing the HA by a degree.
Not even to mention that hands relative to the front wheel can be affected by more than just HA: stem length and height, bar sweep and rise and roll, and fork offset. If FC is the driving factor for managing rowdy steeps, then CG to axle can remain the same for a range of head angles, and hands to axle can also be adjusted to suit the same range of head angles.
HA is no more or less important than anything else, and does not really tell much without other variables: front center or reach at the very least.
There are more than a few bikes (Guerilla Gravity, SC V10, for some examples) out there with adjustable headsets that can change both reach and front center, but nothing else, by 5 to 10mm in each direction. It's not ridiculous to think that someone sensitive to the bike (and this does not mean they have to be crazy fast or uber skilled, just observant) would notice 11mm of front center alone.
I’ve experimented with fork length, angle headsets and adjustable geometry on past bikes - I did four different combinations on my last hardtail and about a dozen on my full-sus. Fit aspects (reach and stack) are very obvious. Head angle is very obvious. The other stuff is more of a muddle, harder to separate out.
All valid points, but just not as fun (in my opinion!)
Yea, also I don’t have any of the issues you mention with a 435-440mm chainstay...
I find the industry swings from one extreme to the other. 5 years ago everyone was making CSs as short as possible - Canfield even managed to get down to 415mm on a 29er lol.
Now we are heading back towards the 450-460mm is cool again.
But really, somewhere in the middle 435-440mm on a 29er with 480-490mm reach is where it is perfect for *me*
Yea, I’m rockin’ a 485mm reach 430mm chainstay transition scout and its the most fun bike I’ve ever ridden. Just sayin’
I get it, a single pivot is simple, but it's just not a great design for anything but flow, all day chunk will kick your arse on a single pivot.
Paul Aston have some interesting words about an Orange downhill bike.