EXT made quite an impression with their first MTB fork back in 2020. Yes, it was eye-wateringly expensive, but the performance was enough to give Fox and RockShox a bloody nose. That's not something you can say for every brand trying to break into the MTB suspension game - Öhlins is one of the biggest names in motorsport suspension yet it took several years before their MTB forks were on par.
The latest iteration is called the Era V2.1. It's still aimed at the enduro market; with 36 mm stanchions and up to 170 mm travel, it weighs in at 2,344 g, which is very similar to a RockShox Zeb or Fox 38. If you want more travel, there's the ERA V2 LT, which offers 180 or 190 mm.
Updates over the original include a whole new air spring with a larger negative chamber for improved
EXT ERA V2.1 Specs
• Intended use: enduro • Travel: 140-170 mm (internally adjustable at service centre) • Adjustments: High- & Low-Speed Compression, Rebound, dual air pressure • HS3 hybrid coil & air spring with 2 positive air chambers & self-equalising negative chamber • 29" only, 44mm offset, 36mm stanchions • Torque cap compatable • Weight: 2,344 grams (actual, 215 mm steerer) • MSRP: 1,480 € + Vat • extremeshox.commojo.co.uk
off-the-top sensitivity. New lower legs feature a floating axle to help reduce friction and are fitted with new slotted bushings for the same reason. There's also a lighter rebound tune and top-out bumper in the secondary positive air chamber.
Our complaint with earlier versions of the ERA was a tendency to top out when pulling on the handlebars. For a fork this expensive, that's pretty hard to overlook, so we wanted to see if EXT have it sorted.
Technology & features
Air spring EXT use a three-chamber air spring much like Öhlins and Manitou. There's a regular positive chamber above the piston to resist compression, with a self-equalizing negative chamber below it, helping ease the fork into the first part of its travel. The extra third chamber, which EXT call "++", controls the mid-to-end stroke progression.
The "++" chamber is set to a higher pressure than the regular "+" chamber. As the fork compresses into the travel, the air in the + chamber is compressed until it equals the pressure in the ++ chamber. From then on, the floating piston that separates the two positive chambers moves freely upwards, and the volume of the positive spring effectively expands to include both chambers.
The upshot is that the air spring acts like a low-volume air spring in the first part of the travel, but a high-volume air spring in the second part. It's like fitting a RockShox fork with several volume tokens to improve mid-stroke support, but those tokens disappear at some point in the mid-travel so the end-stroke doesn't get too firm to use all the travel. In other words, you have a more linear (coil-like) spring curve, with more mid-stroke support but less end-stroke ramp than a regular air spring.
Another advantage is that there's no need to fiddle around adding or removing volume spacers to adjust the progression. Just use a shock pump to adjust the pressure in the ++ chamber at the trailside. The more pressure in the ++ compared to the + chamber, the later in the travel the floating piston will start moving and the more progressive the spring curve will be - see the graphs above from EXT.
In addition, there's a small coil spring housed on the end of the air shaft where it connects to the lower legs. Much like RockShox's Buttercups, the idea is to make it easier for the fork to start compressing on small or high-frequency bumps, by allowing the fork chassis to slide a few millimeters independently of the air spring, or by compressing in tandem with the air spring at the beginning of the stroke, thereby making the overall spring less stiff. EXT say this improves the "off-the-top" feel and small-bump sensitivity.
Unlike RockShox Buttercups, if you remove the lowers and compress the spring by hand (as shown in the video), you can see the coil spring compressing by several millimetres over the first 10 or 20 mm or so of the air spring's stroke. At the beginning of the travel, this will soften the overall spring stiffness by acting as a pair of springs in series.
Chassis The lower legs have been upgraded to include a floating axle, much like Fox and Öhlins use. The axle has a step that clamps the hub against the left leg first, then the right leg clamps onto the axle with a pinch bolt. The idea is that the legs can self-align and remain perfectly parallel - independent of hub width variation, wear or dirt - and this keeps friction to a minimum.
The crown extends upwards around the base of the steerer tube. This means the crucial connection between the crown and the steerer benefits from a longer connection surface (about 5 cm instead of 3 cm), helping to improve stiffness and reduce the chances of creaking at the crown. Pretty clever.
Damper The damper is relatively conventional compared to the spring, with a single-tube architecture with a spring-backed IFP. Rebound and compression flow are fully checked to stop back-flow through the rebound valve during compression (and visa-versa), so the rebound setting shouldn't affect the compression forces (and visa-versa). There's low-speed and high-speed compression adjustment (16 and 14 clicks, respectively) plus 20 clicks of rebound. The rebound range has been made lighter/faster for V2.1.
Bushings EXT say a new bushing material allows for more accurate sizing, resulting in more consistently low friction. A slot in the bushing allows oil to flow up through it when the fork compresses (as shown), helping with lubrication.
Servicing EXT recommends performing a lower leg service every 25-50 hours. Unlike when the fork was first launched, this can now be done at home following the instructions in the video above or the manual here. For a full service, which is recommended every 50-100 hours or every 6-12 months, you'll need to send it to an EXT service centre.
Setup and performance
I rode the V2 fork briefly before sending it away to Mojo Rising (EXT's UK partner and service centre) where the V2.1 updates were installed. Before the updates, the rebound was relatively slow when fully open, yet there was some top-out when pulling hard on the bars to hop over trail obstacles.
After the updates, the rebound was a little faster, though still not super fast, and the top-out issue was gone.
In contrast to Matt's experience with the original ERA, I found the suggested settings printed on the fork leg to be pretty much spot-on. At 85 kg, I settled on 70 psi in the main spring and 110 psi in the ++ chamber. I kept the rebound fully open (20 out of 20 clicks from closed) and added a few clicks of low-speed (8 out of 16 clicks from closed) and high-speed compression (6 out of 14 clicks from closed) to add support in big holes and steps that litter the Tweed Valley where I ride. That was all I needed to do.
If you do need help or advice with setup, the people at Mojo Rising live and breathe this stuff and can talk or walk you through it if you're in the UK.
There are no bleeder valves to release trapped air pressure in the lower legs, but Chris Porter from Mojo Rising suggested using a clean, lubed zip tie to release air via the wiper seals. He also suggested doing this with the fork partially compressed to create a partial vacuum in the lower legs when the fork is at full extension. Sensitivity at the start of the stroke is good even without this hack, but the vacuum trick makes it just that little bit better - at least for a while. Of course, you could do this with any fork and it's easier with bleeder valves, but I wouldn't say the ERA needs this to offer good sensitivity. It certainly helps though.
How does it compare?
I tested the EXT back to back against a Fox 38 Factory, which I consider to be the best in class among enduro forks. As well as having plenty of background ride time on each, I did a back-to-back test, riding them both several times on the same track, same bike, same day. I strongly believe this is the only way to get a true sense of how a fork stacks up.
In this case, there isn't much to separate them. In terms of sensitivity, both are class-leading. When it comes to small bumps near the start of the travel, an area where Fox has outshone all its other rivals, I think the EXT might have a very slight advantage. I only felt this when going very slow (usually when climbing) - once up to speed on a rough trail, both offered similar levels of comfort and a reassuring feeling of consistent connection to the trail. Also, bear in mind this is while using Chris Porter's zip tie trick to create a vacuum in the lowers; the Fox had regular atmospheric pressure in its lowers.
With the setup I was using, I felt the Fox 38 was riding higher in its travel and recovering faster from big compressions. The rebound was fully open on the EXT, but a few clicks away on the Fox. I'm not saying the EXT was too slow for me, but it's nice that the Fox has a bit more room to manoeuvre in the faster direction, especially for lighter riders. On the other hand, the EXT's compression adjustment range feels more intuitive to me. A few clicks make a noticeable difference and you can add meaningful hydraulic support without running into too much harshness. Whereas on the Fox GRIP2 damper, the compression adjustment range is narrow and it's easier to get lost in the many barely distinguishable clicker settings. But unlike some other reviewers, I had no issues with the 38 holding itself up in the travel under braking or big holes, even with minimal compression damping.
In terms of chassis stiffness, I couldn't separate them, and I deliberately sought out big holes and heavy landings.
Perhaps the biggest difference on the trail, however, is the axle to crown length. I measured the EXT at 582 mm (EXT states 582+/-5 mm) whereas my 170 mm Fox 38 measures 590 mm. For added context, I measured a RockShox Zeb at 585 mm. This could partly explain why I felt the Fox 38 rides higher in its travel (I think the faster rebound is a factor too) and the need to add compression damping to the EXT to hold it up higher in holes.
A shorter axle-to-crown length is neither good nor bad, but it's important to be aware of this when choosing which travel to go for, especially since the ERA maxes out at 170 mm. If you want a longer fork/higher ride height you'll need to go for the ERA V2 LT, which covers 180 and 190 mm. It's a shame that neither option can cover 170 and 180 mm, which are probably the most common travel options in the enduro category. The Fox 38 can be set to 160, 170 or 180 mm.
Which would I choose? I'd likely stick with the Fox 38 if for no other reason than the quick-release axle makes wheel swaps easier, although for some riders that's a very minor point. The option to run faster rebound and the ability to run 160-180 mm air springs makes the 38 more versatile too.
But the real difference is the price. This will vary by market but there's no doubt the ERA is pricier. 1,480 € + Vat translates to £1,590 in the UK. The Fox Factory 38 retails for £1,399 ($1,159 in the US). It feels pretty strange to be suggesting a four-digit fork as the "value option", but less expensive versions of the Fox 38 are available with very similar performance and there are plenty of deals online.
Pinkbike's Take
EXT are still relatively new to the MTB market but they've cooked up a product that offers genuinely top-drawer performance. The blend of sensitivity with support is outstanding (possibly class-leading), the setup guide is spot-on and the compression adjustment is effective and intuitive. Some riders may want faster rebound options though. It's also important to be aware that the axle to crown height is slightly shorter than other rivals, and if you want to compensate by boosting the travel to 180 mm, you'll need a whole new fork. That brings us to the price, which is on the higher end compared to its similarly performing rival, the Fox 38. For those looking for a boutique fork and aren't afraid to splash the cash, the ERA V2.1 won't disappoint. — Seb Stott
Honestly, I would love to find a new benchmark fork. But for now, the Fox 38 is ahead in my book thanks to its off-the-top sensitivity (which is measurably better than the other rivals I've tested on a spring dyno). The EXT is a match for it in terms of outright performance, but in the real world, the Fox is a lot less expensive (though still expensive!)
@seb-stott: I like that everything gets compared to a control fork. When one review compares product A to product B and another review compares product C to product D, its hard to draw conclusions. Comparing everything to product A give a good frame of reference.
@seb-stott Thanks for the review. The 2.2 is their current generation of the fork, which has a different tune in it than the 2.1. Maybe that would address the rebound circuit speed. Also, slightly different bushing setup on the 2.2. The small bump compliance on the EXT is unmatched in my experience.
@seb-stott: it would be really cool if you would publish independent dyno results in these suspension tests. It would be even cooler if you bought 3 off the shelf to make sure the test units aren't cherry picked, test the factory setups and consistency across the 3.
@DizzyNinja: It would be cool to see a "Field Test" for all sorts of product categories (wheelset, brakes, fork, shock, frame, transmission) and the end result could be 2x builds - 1x no-expenses-spared "bling out" build, and 1x high-performance but more cost-effective build. Then compare those two builds head to head!
@garrettstories: hearing this, I am glad I am ditching my V2.0 for a different fork. The V2.1 upgrade is supposed to address all of the issues of the V2.0 (2.1 upgrade of which I have not done yet), and they are STILL iterating into a new V2.2 version and expect me to pay for multiple upgrades to fix everything?? The 2.0 is overdamped harsh fork (with the excuse of being "race tuned"), that runs ok when serviced very regularly. Not a chance I am going to throw $1,000 into upgrades when I can just go buy a better complete fork now.
@excel: Sorry it feels over damped. The newer one I have is just killer. I'm 155 lbs FWIW. I've had good luck with the folks at EXT USA. Maybe they can help.
@seb-stott: You got it right Seb. The grip2 forks really are the benchmark at the moment (own one + other forks). I've had several grip2 forks, zero issues, easy to get dialed. It would be the fork I'd recommend hands down before anything else. Sorry fox haters.
@seb-stott: as you should! are you a journalist? if you consider yourself even fractionally such, your main goal should be impartiality. To do that, no one should know what you favor. I don't want your opinions, I want your (as realistically as possible) unbiased assement of the product
@NWBasser: nah. Sensitivity at ride height is important. The curve shape off doesn't impact small bump sensitivity, but it does impact ride height vs spring rates.
The forks and shocks with the biggest nose off the top have the softer mid stroke at the same ride height.
@NWBasser: Thats fair. But from a traction point of view it's no where near as important as a lot of people make out. Of course there are limits here (as with anything) meaning that if your fork is nigh on seized, then you aren't going to get as good traction. But when you are in the realms of splitting hairs, for example when comparing well serviced suspension from any of the big brands, then small bump differences provide essentially zero performance increase. Mid-stroke and damping + chassis stiffness/compliance are by far the most important factors. Perfect bottom out control and nice small bump are kinda irrelevant. Nice to have, but neither is going to make you any faster.
@seb-stott: The price difference is even bigger when you consider the Fox is available discounted from basically every internet retailer, whereas the ERA will likely hold it's retail price.
You can also buy a complete with a Fox 38 factory or performance elite relatively affordably (the cost of the complete a typically a lot less than the sum of its parts), whereas (as far as I know), there's no low-cost method of getting a bike equipped with an EXT ERA - you basically have to buy it full price aftermarket. I've never seen a complete specced with EXT.
@bikeflog: I've had all iterations of the EXT, as well as the Flash and Edge forks from Intend (plus fox / rockshox and ohlins) - in my view, the intend forks beat them all. Why? Simplicity in setup, superb damping control and a magic carpet ride compared to any other fork I have used.
There is a washboard section of trail I like to use to compare how well a fork can recover from repeated hits whilst remaining composed, with the EXT it was harsh, a 2023 Zeb slightly better, but the Flash smoothed it out completely. On chunky roots it never steps out of line, drops it takes in its stride and I really don't see the USD flex issues that people worry about (85kg rider pushing hard)
Likewise, the Flash stays sufficiently in its travel to never be of concern (although not quite as high as the EXT, but I also like to use the travel of my suspension, not just maintain geometry!) and takes the big hits incredibly well.
I haven't yet tried the Intend linearizer to play with the compression curve, but the standard 3 position token has worked perfectly well for me and gives a wide range of very noticeable changes based on how it is used.
What I would say, is that all of the modern crop of forks are so good now, that it really comes down to user preference in how the want a fork to feel. EXTs latest tune I'd way better than pervious ones, and yes if you are flat out racing, it's a great option, Zeb is a solid and easy to use fork, but needs a rebuild before using due to QC issues, 38 I personally don't agree is top of the pile these days, not least because the majority of people simply can't deal with the multitude of adjustments and in my experience they just don't feel as good as a Zeb and Ohlins 36 or 38 are better than ever as they have reduced the compression tunes to give a more compliant ride.
For me, until something new comes along, I'm staying on the Intend fork, not only because it suits me and feels better than everything else out there, but because it looks a whole load better than anything else too! Oh and a monkey could strip and rebuild it which is always good!!
Getting my EXT shock serviced costs a very similar amount to getting a Fox shock serviced so I'd think the fork should be in the same ball park too. The advantage is that the turnaround time for service (here with Alba in Squamish at least) is way faster than Fox.
@O1D4: not everyone sends in their stuff for service. What about actual parts cost? Rockshox are very reasonable for the tools you need and the cost of parts.
The difference is EXT actually says the service intervals people should be observing not what the marketing department wants them to say. Suspension is often wildly under serviced. And to the the cost of servicing, at least here in the UK, they are functionally the same price.
For context, I next to do a lower service on my fork every 2-3 rides, and full service every 3-4 lower services.
I'd I had time I'd do it after every ride. You get tuned in with suspension and you can feel them degrade half way round a ride. Or after a couple runs for dh fork.
I do have the advantage of years working in a suspension shop which helps mitigate costs. But these are high performance items aimed at being cheap first priority.
@Thegrumpymechanic You do a clean, dust seals, gings, and oil, and new crush washers every 2-3 rides?
Some quick math I've done 181 ndes this year (2400km) thats 60 lower leg services and 15 full services. Lets go the high end lower leg every 3 rides and full service every 4 lower leg services.
Shop cost $8300 CAD
DIY Cost $3075 CAD for just parts
It's pretty clear to see where this recommendation falls apart. It's not feasible, nor necessary if your suspension is losing performance thalf way around a ride", it's not being serviced correctly.
@Thegrumpymechanic: suspension is under serviced when you don't follow manufacturers recommendations and even that is for worse case scenario. What proof do you have that marketing sets these standards? Really curious on that one.
@jaydawg69: >What proof do you have that marketing sets these standards?
Because this is Pinkbike where commenters think that marketing managers are making all of the calls at bike companies. From product development and engineering to sales, service, support and probably warranty too.
I get it when you consider how many bike companies are strictly marketing and distribution agencies with contracted design and manufacturing, but it's far from the standard operating procedures. Source - ex industry marketing guy
Lucky you that's a very privileged position to be able to ride that much.
However I get put 3-6 times a month, normally around that 4 figure. Which is a lot more in line with what most people manage.
That then results in a lower service ~once a month and full service every 3-4 months.
If you want to break it down into DIY costs, so far it's been about 40quid in oil. 30ish in seals. (Talking skf and maxima plush)
So, it's "pretty clear" it's a hollow argument to infer everyone does the same.
Might be worth it to take a moment to clarify what constitutes a ride, talking over ~1200m climbing/15km+ kind of thing.
Pro tip, if you've changing oil bath regular enough, you don't need new dust seals every time.
Also, I did say "I" not "everyone should", just that suggested intervals are manufacturer intervals are too long.
@jaydawg69 It's a case of reading wording on press realises, sponsored content and manuals.
You'll find some will give a range dependant on use and conditions. This is so the longer numbers can be advertised as the headline figure, but still able to cover their backs.
The reality of sliding Bush forks, as they still leave a huge amount to be desired, but atm meet the cost to make price points.
@Thegrumpymechanic: bruv.....if you aren't taking the tools, oil and service kit with you in a pack on every ride, how are you suposed to finish the last half the ride with the same performance as the first half? Piss poor service intervals sir!
@Dougal-SC: nope, not the case, done same practice for years, on probably a half dozen forks I have owned in that time over multiple brands, hence not specifically calling out any one brand, they are all shit.
The limitations of using a sliding bushing fork is the problem. They are inheritently high maintenance.
Also to reiterate that's only the personally owned forks. This is also is blindly obvious how quickly performance degrades when you've worked full time for years servicing, tuning ect. They just are not consistent.
@Mtbdialed: cool, run the physics numbers on that and you'll see the issues presented by sliding bushing forks are overcome by the vastly different forces at play.
While it may sound like a good argument it's fundamentally flawed.
@Thegrumpymechanic: by this do you mean that due to the higher forces at play with a high powered motor bike the extra friction that starts happening isn’t a factor? Or do you mean that they have different needs? Genuinely curious.
@Thegrumpymechanic: 36mm stanchions vs 54mm inverted fork stanchions. the point isn't the forces, its the principle....
I am in no way saying there aren't sloppy/shitty bushings out there(looking at you rockshox), but bushing stiction is not the hinderance you think it is, if the fork is built to proper spec.
These service intervals are really what kept me off those higher end suspension units. Back in my twenties, I think I rode my mountainbike over 15 hours a week or so. If I'd have to send my suspension off every three or four weeks, it would basically imply I'd need a second fork for my bike. Currently it still is between two and four rides a week, so possibly six hours a week on average. I think I'll stick with cheaper and easier to service suspension and safe up for something from Intend (which is designed for home service). Sending off the fork for service so frequently is reserved for those who don't ride often or who have a spare fork (or complete bike) available.
@Dougal-SC: Lower leg maintenance isn't that different between brands so obviously that one isn't keeping me from going for a more complex fork. It is the bit where they recommend you to send the fork in after 50 to 100 riding hours for maintenance and I should hope the maintenance center goes a bit further than basic lower leg service.
@professed: Wait, you're saying if I'd send in a fork for maintenance, all they do is perform a lower leg service? I'd hope they swap out some seals/wipers, damper oil etc?
@vinay: i was responding to the comment that an EXT service costs more than the others. The fact you can readily rebuild an entire fork or shock means costs are equal or lower
Vorsprung Smashpot coil conversion all the way for me! Only thing I tried that made a real difference when trying to get a plush fork that doesn't dive.
Why mess around with increasingly complicated air springs trying to be "more like a coil"... when you could just... use a coil... (conveniently forgetting weight penalties)
Same! Had ERA v1, which was awful. v2 was much, much better, but still not what I was after. Had a Zeb but that wasn't quite there yet, either. Then I dropped a Smashpot in the Zeb and finally had the fork I'd been chasing after.
Coil forks are nice but there can be very good reasons for going with air:
Not every coil fork is available with the correct spring rate for each rider.
Finding the right spring rate can involve a lot more effort and money.
No option to quickly adjust spring rates according to conditions. E.g. big jumps vs natural tech, full days worth of supplies in the pack, summer vs winter, swapping bikes between riders.
@Ttimer: Agreed on all the points but for performance I would still go coil. Air is easier for the industry to sell - it's lighter, it's more easily tuned and it's progressive. I would argue (and Kris Keefer agrees - he said the best thing you can do on a moto is throw away the air springs and get some coils in the forks) that it's not better performance wise.
I would argue progressiveness is overated. It's all about the area under the spring curve graph - the energy absorbed by the spring. I certainly haven't felt the need for it on the Ohlins coil once set up right.
@fartymarty: I disagree with the "progressiveness is overrated" argument, as someone who has a coil fork. Being able to dial in the progressiveness is a great tuning tool
@fartymarty: The thing is, in any of the situations I mentioned, a coil fork’s performance is worse than air. A linear spring curve isn’t all that helpful if the rate is wrong.
@VelkePivo: did you tune the rebound and compression circuits on the V2? The damping is too high out of the box for most of us and when tuned appropriately the fork is transformed
Big bummer with EXT is that they don’t support user service. So if you like to rebuild your own stuff, might want to look at other brands. Maybe some day they’ll get it together, but for now they’re clearly not interested in supporting those who give them money and support them.
@garrettstories: okay, but that service is a given just like making compression and rebound adjustments should be a given. You’re pretty much dumping out oil and putting new oil in. I do not support any brand that requires you to send in your parts for service.
@garrettstories: I stopped into Suspension Syndicate (the only US retailer/serviced) to try to buy the parts to service my 2.0. They highly recommended against it and told me that it’s really easy to strip the lower bolts. They said most of their technicians had even done so on their first services.
yeah this is a pretty big disadvantage in my opinion. One of my favorite things about rockshox suspension is how easy it is to servixe, both in terms of parts availability and documentation. Fox is pretty good as well. a lot of the boutique suspension brands don’t seem to support their products in the same way and for me that makes it a much harder sell.
You, sir, speak the truth. Has anyone tried to service a Storia at home? It appears you need a vacuum bleeder, otherwise I’d be tempted to give it a go.
Pretty dumb they don’t let you do a full fork service. That is not rocket science, but not so easy when you can’t get the custom tools.
@NWBasser: definitely the easiest/ best instructions for home servicing. Fox forks at least aren't that difficult but the information provided could be simplified
@ThreadedBB1day: and its silly. I am an EXT service center.....it's really easy.
They should really just sell service kits, the proprietary tools and put out a SRAM quality service video for the various services.
In their defense though, they think like a company that makes F1 suspension.......because they do. So, this might take awhile to get through to them. lol
@jackalope: I'll usually clean and grease the air seals too. It's about a 3 beer job for me, but I work pretty slowly and take a fair bit of time off task for my beers.
Getting the replacement parts is the issue, the actual strip and rebuild of the fork is as easy as any other and requires no special tools, as is changing the travel. My main concern with them is the horrendous top out when popping off stuff/into manual.
Not tried to ser ice the Storia yet but I believe this is also pretty easy straight forward (though I'm led to believe the E-Storia needs a vacuum bleed).
@bricknall: all of their shocks are better off with a vacuum bleed, all reservoir shocks in general are actually, whether it’s required or not. But I’ve vacuum bled an older Storia, it was easy. I didn’t have new seals, but was able to get it running right again. Used the same fitting as Öhlins and Cane Creek..
@FatSanch: needing a vacuum bleed isn’t a big problem. Many other shocks require it, and almost all shocks are better off if you do. But it’s the fact that they don’t make any parts or tools available that is a bummer.
I'm trying to remember how many chambers my Z1 Coil with a Grip2 damper has. I keep forgetting to check my pressures or needing to service it because.....
Curious...have you found the Grip2 to be a significant upgrade over the stop Grip damper? I've read several places stating that other than some tuneability, you don't gain much in operation. (I have a Z1 Coil myself)
@ReformedRoadie: I don't think there's any real gain to be had. I never rode it with the stock GRIP damper, so I have no basis for comparison. Someone wanted to buy my old 36 in as inexpensive of configuration as possible. I'm a 5'11" 165lb rider, so I'm pretty comfortably in the target rider size that suspension and other components are designed for. I run my high speed compression fully open. That's likely the same base setting as the GRIP damper. I can add some high speed rebound if I'm going to drop off some bigger stuff vs normal trail ride. That's about all it might offer. Pretty minimal gain for swapping dampers.
@ReformedRoadie: I've got a 36 Rhythm with the Grip. I've ridden a Grip2 36...it's not worth the money (to me) for an upgrade in terms of damper alone.
If I had a Performance or Z1 fork with the lighter lowers, yes, I'd consider the upgrade when it came time for a 150 hour service as the cost probably wouldn't be as hard to justify. The Rhythm fork is pretty heavy and there's no getting past that - I'm saving the $380 or so towards a Performance Elite or similar fork for next year instead.
Who seriously wants a quick release on an enduro fork, or really any high end bike these days? It's not like people are still changing out tubes all the time.
I have it on my 38. It makes it ever so slightly easier to take off the wheel for brake bleeds and such. I'm really pretty indifferent about it. Not much advantage or disadvantage.
Me. I prefer not having to nab a tool to take off a wheel for any reason. Most of the 6mm broaches on many through axles feel a bit lacking in tolerance and depth to me as well.
Meanwhile Mezzer Pro is the light but stiff leader in this category, with similar air spring tech as EXT but user serviceable cartridge with instructions and parts available. And air bleed ports.
@seb-stott I stopped reading after this: Also, bear in mind this is while using Chris Porter's zip tie trick to create a vacuum in the lowers; the Fox had regular atmospheric pressure in its lowers. While it may initially work as intended this creates too much variability and inconsistency.
You can build an Avalanche Downhill Racing Hybrid fork out of any cheap fork (Mezzer Expert, Zeb Ultimate or F38 or just your existing fork) and have an incredibly supple coil fork, with the additional adjustable bottom out control of air, in a similar weight product that is extraordinarily easy to rebuild as it's open bath, for about the same money (assumes you bought a new fork too) and same weight as the ERA.
Using a new Mezzer Pro, weights are coming in at 2350 grams with cost very close to that of a new Era.
I’ll say I had a 36 Hybrid set up and now a new Era V2.1 I’d take the Hybrid every single time over the Era. Wish my old fork wasn’t a 27.5 so I could still use it. But been heavily considering selling the Era and going back to a hybrid
Avy is great. But, I don’t think I’ll ever go through the process of dealing with Craig again. He knows his stuff but he can be insufferable to talk to.
Avy stuff is a little overhyped. Its not bad, but its just a particular suspension tune. With suspension there is no free lunch. Anything that is supple is not responsive, anything that is responsive is not supple. The game for a "good" tune is to make your lsc firm, so you can push against the fork, but the HSC blowoff super soft so when you build up pressure, the fork blows off fast and makes it track better and transmit less shock to your hands. And that you can achieve with simple shim stack tuning - this is what pretty much most pro athletes do on stock products. Easy enough to get it done at any suspension center, Ohlins will do this for you for an extra cost (I think) when you send the forks in for service, and its actually pretty easy to do this yourself, all you need is a vice and right diameter shaft clamps, measuring caliper, basic wreches, and a free demo of Shim Restactor.
Open bath vs closed bath, meh. Not much of a difference performance wise to matter. Open bath dampers are easier to service, but also prone to more contamination, as well as cavitation. The other issue is that you essentially get a bigger air bottom out effect - oil level in moto forks for open bath is a tuning parameter that controls bottom out. Biggest downside is the flipping of the controls, the rebound is on the top, compression is on the bottom - generally for on the trail adjustments, you never really touch rebound, but you do fiddle with compression depending on terrain (like firming it up for steep sections so you don't fork dive on nose hits)
Air vs coil is the biggest difference, but not as much as people think. The effect depends on how fast you ride and what your preferred damper setup is. If you have a softer damper setup and ride slower where damping forces are smaller, then the coil can feel way more supple because of less seal friction and no ramp up. If you start riding faster withe a firmer damper setup, the damping become quite significant and sometimes override the actual response from the spring especially in the first part of travel. You can tune an air fork to be very supple by just changing the shim stack.
If you got money to spend, I recommend buying Formula suspension (fork and shock) where they make it really easy to swap valves with different shim stack tunes. Its the easiest way to see how much the shim stack affects the ride.
@Keegansamonster: I always joke that an Avy cart costs $500 plus a conversation with Craig. He can be a challenge but it's well worth it. I've yet to find anything that tops my Avy Zeb w/ Smashpot conversion. Although I bought the smashpot before avy was doing the hybrid coil setups so I haven't tried it yet.
@KickFlipABike: Your description of 'good' tune is what I experience on Avy coil suspension. Avy coils feels oddly firm when pedaling along, but then the wheels react very quickly on chunder. It's odd to ride along on a bike that feels XC bike firm on a flat section and pedals so well, then as soon as you hit any chunder/ drop/ rock ledge/ root/ whatever it swallows the obstacle up like you are riding a 200mm travel bike with 40% sag.
Technically an open bath and a closed bath can have identical damping curves, however the reason Avy moved away from his own closed cartridge is there are some issues with closed cartridges on mountain bikes, because the bikes are so light (compared to say an MX bike) and they don't have enough weight to sag some small spring that is in the damping rod. (this is how I recall that explanation, my apologies if I expressed this incorrectly)
I don't care so much about the 'coil suppleness' myself as I really only notice it in the parking lot and hardly feel it when charging. What I do like is the lack of stiction that a coil provides that allows a lightning fast reaction to trail obstacles.
However, there is a real problem with using an air spring and it is that spring preload (sag) and spring rate become permanently combined and you can't adjust one, without also changing the other. Need less sag to set chassis attitude? Well, it's going to cost you spring rate. Now it bottoms? Well add volume reducers. Now it lacks midrange pedaling support? Well too bad! A coil spring allows you to set the sag, with no change at all to the actual spring rate, a huge advantage.
The open bath design is simpler to manufacture, thats pretty much it. Closed damper require more seals, bladder or piston, and/or a dual chamber system.
The stiction of air seals is somewhat misleading. Generally, if you look at the breakaway force of the seal, its not that high. People often test the stiction when they are off the bike, which is not representative of riding condition at sag, where for small movements, the change in amount of force to deflect the suspension either way is much much higher than seal stiction. Bushing friction can also play a part. Some companies/shops burnish bushings in lowers for reduce friction.
All of this really just ends up a slight compression/rebound damping though. Most world cup DH riders don't really do anything for this, because its such a small amount for both. Tuning the shim stack is all thats needed. Fresh service also helps, but you can also use stanchion lube like Miles Wet Seal to aid in reducing seal and bushing friction in the intermediate.
>However, there is a real problem with using an air spring and it is that spring preload (sag) and spring rate become permanently combined and you can't adjust one, without also changing the other.
Sort of. Most air forks are limited in the sense that the transfer port is in a constant location, and you have certain volume to work with. The three chamber designs like EXT give you the ability to fine tune the curve. If you want the same spring rate but want the fork to sit higher, there is a combination of settings that can do this.
The main advantage of air is being able to run a softer setup at sag while having a firmer setup at bottom out, which you can't do with a coil spring alone. This is great for shorter travel bikes.
@Keegansamonster: I now call Craig only after steeling myself to absolute calm, like I'm a psychiatrist dealing with...um..what's the pc term these days? Ah, yes! Neurodivergent.
@VelkePivo: I’ve been Avy curious and find it fascinating that typically any mention of Avy leads to „yeah, but Craig.“ kind of makes me want to call with no intention of buying anything.
I ran the V2.0 for a full season (came on my used bike), and eventually came to the conclusion this version is overdamped on compression when running recommended settings. It's tolerable on a freshly serviced fork, but eventually the harshness is overwhelming as the hours accumulate and plushness leaves. Never had top out issues. It needs more frequent servicing than the recommended interval to keep it plush. It caused me arm issues at end of season that I never had before. I agree with Brian Cahal and Bike Radar's takes on the V2.0. End of season, I came to the conclusion it was better to get support from the air spring (much more + than recommended, with only 15 psi more in ++) with compression fully open, but my arms were wrecked by then. I've heard the V2.1 is supposed to solve the issues, but I've moved onto a Black Friday fork deal instead...
Maybe I need to try that set up Cahal talks about. Love my Era but just haven’t gotten it to be where I think it really should be in terms of performance
Most HSC adjusters are just harshness adjusters. They are preloading the shims, which is almost as bad as preloading your main spring. Full open all the time. Reshim if it’s not enough. Running LSC is also dubious on a mtb, but settings other than fully closed are acceptable.
@FatSanch: Jives 100% with what I have found. I also have a heavy prefference for a fast High/mid speed rebound tune which lets you run a lot more LSR.
Yeah I'd agree with you. What made a big difference to my ERA was not using their oil in the lowers. Switched to a heavier Fox Gold oil got rid of a lot of tight bushing feel and went much longer between services
@IllestT: you‘ll want to avoid Fox gold oil on the damper side. All cartridges ingest oil, and that stuff is no bueno for valves. You should use the same oil for the cartridge and bath, but one designed for both uses.
@IllestT: I also don’t have firsthand experience, but know of someone that their Grip 2 cartridge stopped working. With how sticky it is, it’s not hard to imagine it wreaking havoc. In a different fork YMMV
I have a Formula Fork, and it works great, I have had zero issues with it, and rebuilding it and maintaining it is super easy DIY. If you're looking for an alternative to the big two. It can be swapped to a coil fork and then back to an air fork. It also has a genius quick release that can remove the actual quick release and insert a hex tool. The best system I have seen. Also, seven different dampening tunes that can be swapped out super easily. I am always raving about it. It is the best-kept secret in MTB forks, It is a shame more people have not tried one outside of Europe.
The reason I love my era over a 38 is the fact you don’t get that wall of bottom out force you get from tokens, you ride high in the travel and get a linear spring rate. I’ve also not reached the end of the damping adjustments. 9/10 fork for me
"A few clicks make a noticeable difference and you can add meaningful hydraulic support without running into too much harshness."
Those are two different things. The range of clicks is one, the ability to add support without harshness is another. Are you saying the Fox damper can't add support without adding harshness? Or just that you need more clicks to do it?
And where are the dyno charts to show that the Fox damper actually has a smaller range of compression adjustment?
@jukka4130: and yet this article didn't talk about being under damped. It claimed the _range_ of adjustments was small, and perhaps that it can't add support without becoming harsh. Except if it the damper is harsh, then it's not _under_damped...
@justinfoil: Harsh and overdamped aren't necessarily linked. You can make a fork that's underdamped (so wallowy and divey) but still harsh on sharp edges. The big two are both playing this game.
@justinfoil: To quote Steve from Vorsprung Suspension:
"The 38 has the same damper as the 36, which at least in rebound has a great usable range, but has the same issue with the compression range being very soft, and when the air spring friction/hysteresis disappear you notice that a lot more because in most air sprung forks, the majority of the low speed compression "damping" is coming from friction and the spring, not from the damper."
@Dougal-SC: that's underdamped for low shaft speed, but overdamped for high shaft speed. How can it be called overall "underdamped" if it's displaying overdamped symptoms in some situations?
@jukka4130: he's also saying the damping _is_ suitable for the situation of being paired with that air spring. Sure, if you switch something up, like coil or luftekappe, you might also need to tune the damper again, but that's kind of a given: set spring first, then rebound, then comp; change spring, change rebound, then change comp.
@Dougal-SC: yeah, harshness is how it engages the bump... with too much damping force. So, overdamped for the situation.
If you hit a bump and it spikes and is harsh because high speed doesn't flow enough, that's overdamped, yes? If high speed flows too much such that is doesn't provide sufficient damping force and blows through travel on that bump, that's underdamped, yes? How exactly do you have both of those at once. You might have stiction from an air spring causing some harshness, but that's not the damper's fault.
@Dougal-SC: Is harshness not excessive force transmitted through the suspension to the chassis & rider? If not, what is harshness? If yes, what causes that extra force if not damping force? (Ignoring air spring characteristics for now, we're talking dampers only.)
@Dougal-SC: More force than expected _that is transmitted through to the chassis and rider_. Excessive, unexpected, same idea: more than you want at the time. More what though? Force, from what? The damper.
Hey seb, I just yesterday ordered a 38 performance elite on sale from fox. These kind of back to back comparisons (I was between a zeb and 3 are super helpful and I’m confident I made the right choice. Thanks again!
I don't know about you all, but I'm not too keen on sticking zip ties in my seals every ride. The ability to equalize for atmospheric pressure makes loads of difference depending on the day - I see this as a real advantage to the Fox and RS options.
Poke fun at this fork, it's funky air spring, it's damper, the DU bushings, it's price, and its service intervals all you want. I'm personally running a V2 LT 180mm travel and it took a moment to dial in, but it's the best damn performing fork I've ever ridden. We haven't sold one yet that's had less than happy feedback. Cheap no, worth it however if you just want arguably the best performing fork available.
As a current Era user that had all the issues of the 1.0 and 2.0 the 2.1 is FAR better BUT …. I didnt like getting stringed through 3 iterations of a fork before getting a truly working product.
V2.1 is excellent performance wise but…. At a cost
I own a V1 that got updated to V2 internals. By far the best thing I’ve ever ridden. I can’t get anything else to even come close. The faster you ride the better it gets.
I hate that they try make them not user serviceable though. They aren’t especially complicated to service but you do need some special tools. The distributor refused to even sell me the tools so I had to machine some myself. They also hate selling spare parts. That kind of shit can F right off, and for that reason I don’t recommend anyone buy these forks.
Unfortunately the fancy CSU is not fully immune to CSU creaks. Have been very happy with my v2.0 but now have creaky CSU. Never had the topout issues others have though.
"He also suggested doing this with the fork partially compressed to create a partial vacuum in the lower legs when the fork is at full extension."
Or you could just make sure to assemble the fork with the damper and spring rods fully extended and just dial in your air spring with whatever pressure is naturally present in the lower legs. If the air spring is good, you shouldn't need to add "partial vacuum*" to make it feel good.
If you insist on "fixing" an air spring's deficits with hacks, you could just always assemble the fork at very high altitude.
*(calling it "partial vacuum" is a stretch, it's just slightly lower pressure, not even close to real vacuum)
I don’t know - I actually have both and the EXT seems plusher to me while also being very supportive. At least at the speeds I ride. And with my relatively light weight (140lbs). The Fox 38 feels as great as the EXT only when I get up to speed.
As much as I appreciate @sebstott comparing to a “control” fork, I would really appreciate @mattbeer take on this as he had some glowing things to say for the previous version - did the EXT ERA get worse? Or are reviews so subjective they really aren’t worth the read…..
@novicenat-nvan I was impressed with the version that I rode, but that was quite some time ago and EXT has been making changes along the way. The Fox 38, Ohlins 38 RXF and ZEB are also great products, yet each of those has a different ride as the reviews have pointed out.
@mattbeer: thanks for the reply. I still think you should ride this version and comment further (although someone else’s suggestion of a fork shoot out with multiple reviewers is probably the best option)
"From then on, the floating piston that separates the two positive chambers moves freely upwards, and the volume of the positive spring effectively expands to include both chambers."
In a simplified fashion, yes, but in reality this is not so simple. Because the ++ chamber is smaller, the pressure ramps up faster in this chamber than in the + chamber, so it will be a constant state of ++ becoming higher pressure than the + chamber which will then cause + to compress against the ++ until it reaches the new higher pressure of the ++ before moving the piston between them further, thereby starting the cycle all over again...
Hence why this system is more complicated to tune than a just a simple volume spacer, but also allows a much wider tunability range.
Also are we not going to touch on the fact that the little spring at the start of the stroke has a fixed spring rate that is going to work differently for riders of different weights? Something that was already an issue for DVO when using a coil for their OTT system...
The zip tie trick has been a thing with the Era fork since it launched, which is so disappointing, and stops me from considering it. I'd feel cheated if I paid over £1500 for a fork, and had to stick zip ties down it for it to work optimally.
I'm continuously dual positive chamber curious. From a linearity standpoint it makes sense. But most journalist reviews I read, tend to tip the hat to my trusty Fox 38. Especially as a light rider and I read Ohlins, Manitou, and EXT can be overdamped gives me pause for trying dual chamber fork..
Give the DSD Runt a try. They're great in a Fox or Rockshox chassis, gets you their proven damper and chassis R&D with the adjustability of a three-chamber air spring like EXT/Ohlins/Manitou.
If you don't like it, sell it, they're really easy to sell since a lot of folks are curious about adding a second positive air chamber. I won't ride without one these days.
EXT made me realize I do have an upper limit to bike part spending. Even if it were a magical fork that was perfect....about $1000 is my upper limit and you can get a premium Fox, RS, and sometimes Ohlins on sale at that price or less.
Just geht a usted Yari flor 200 bucks and get an avy hybridkit.than you have the best Form you at max of 1000 bucks.
When Tuning ist Done, warranty is lost anyway,thus a used fork With Tuning is The best thing one can do
My ERA v1 fork just had it's 3rd birthday (bought in September 2020). It's on my heavily used eBike now. Still doesn't creak. 4 full services at Jtech and Mojo. 9 lower leg services done at home by mw. A couple of internal updates done at Mojo for free. Looking good for the next 3 years of use. Would you get that value from RS/Fox?
@seb have you ridden an RXF38 yet? ive had a mezzer for the last few years and while its great (all the manitou bros love raving about it) i kinda feel like i want a change. I'm torn between a 38 because its fantastic and an RXF38 because depending on who you ask its even better, and for me has a few features i really like, like the triple air chamber.
that said, whats the point of the double positive air chambers if a 38 has a better spring curve anyways. a wildcard option is to pick up an old lyrik off buysell and put a bunch of push aftermarket components on it...
So you noticed marginally better sensitivity on small bumps when climbing, when it doesn't really matter, with a fork setup intended specifically for that feeling.
In other words, there is no useful difference. Reduce the overall spring rate* on the Fox, whether through bleeders or zipties or main spring, and it would likely feel the same on climbs
*(that's what the lowers "trick" is really doing: reducing spring rate of the parallel air spring in the lowers which reduces the overall rate)
A benefit of EXT not mentioned here is that you can upgrade the internals when upgrades come out. My V1 will get v2.1 internals when it next goes in for a service at a very reasonable price. Which together with decent CSU means it’s a fork you can keep for a few years and amortise the cost down, whilst keeping a cutting edge performance fork. Not really the case with Fox
I'm so sick of those stupid spring graphs that EXT uses. That's not the way a spring works no matter how many chambers it has. Unless there's some massive amount of stiction, it's not going to ramp up and then let go half way through the stroke. And if it DOES have that much stiction...
The 2.2 with the new air spring is fantastic, probably the best fork I have used. Speak to mojo and they will upgrade the existing one to 2.2 for a few quid!
Fully open on the EXT and the Fox was still faster with clicks remaining; and you're on the upper end of the spring range. That's kinda the definition of too slow.
The words in this article and the settings listed are saying it... So, if _you're_ not saying it, who is? Do you have a ghostwriter?
Not hub axle is the problem they pretend to solve but terrible tolerances of upper legs. +/- 5mm on axle to crown length? On a product for over 1.000usd?
@fluider: It has to do with the air spring design in general. The point at which the positive and negative chambers reach equilibrium can vary and thus cause the range in AC dimension that the manufacturers state.
"EXT recommends performing a lower leg service every 25-50 hours. Unlike when the fork was first launched, this can now be done at home following the instructions in the video above or the manual here. For a full service, which is recommended every 50-100 hours or every 6-12 months, you'll need to send it to an EXT service centre."
Can we get suspension manufactures do weight up to 300lbs. I'm slim with some muscle at 6'6", 290+lbs, tired of everything stoping at where men start...
@bikerider0985: I think I'm just tired of the industry not bothering to do even the most basic stuff to cater to bigger people. Pressure charts, belt lengths on water bags etc etc. Cost would be negligible.
@ThreadedBB1day: someone at 300 lbs is probably .1% of the riding population. It would cost how much to engineer everything to 300 lbs? Would it sacrifice the users at 110 lbs (5% of the riding population)?
@ThreadedBB1day: while you do make a decent point, it does cost more to stock those items. And assuming you were the manufacturer, would you get testers that weigh cost to 300lbs to test it? Or would you go for the middle of the bell curve? I know what your marketing and development departments will tell you to do, not to mention the accounting department!
I do feel you as with many things in life I feel left out due to some medical/health issues but at some point you gotta roll with the idea you're a unique snowflake and keep on going.
@jaydawg69: In the United States, the average male ages 20 years or older weighs 197.6lbs. The recommendations stop 20lbs above that. Let's be real they are all over engineered already, I've never damaged/broken a fork in a lifetime of riding. I just want recommended pressures, especially on a double positive chambers.
"I have some muscle." Dawg, at 290lbs you're listed as obese. Stop whining about the bike industry just because your kitchen habits lack any self control.
@ThreadedBB1day: You said slimly muscled. That absolutely does not line up with 6'6" 290. You're either a jacked as f*ck bodybuilder or you seriously need to put down the 7th crispy cream. This is entirely on you. No, the bike industry is not going to build bikes for either of those extremes. Not only are you less than a percent of the world population by height, but your weight alone puts you into a vastly more extremely and rare percentile. God, people like you are so entitled.
To anyone reading, go google those numbers as a bodytype. You'll see exactly what I mean.
@sherbet: You are wrong and have zero relevant (to me specifically) proof otherwise. Also, numbskull, I didn't ask the bike industry to build bikes differently did I? lol.
@ThreadedBB1day: Are you claiming to not be human? If that isn't the case, yes, I absolutely do know that 6'6" 290lbs isn't a "slimly muscled" body type. Do you actually think we're so f*cking dumb that we wouldn't call your fat ass over that sort of lie? Come on dude. We weren't born yesterday.
And yes, you idiot, you literally did. You started this conversation saying you wanted the bike industry to start building things specifically for people in your body range. They aren't going to do that. You're an extreme outlier.
Grow up, drop the entitlement. It's incredibly embarrassing.
@sherbet: To be fair, 6'6" is super tall. My partner at work is 6'6" and walks around at a slim 250. My build at 5'8" and 172 is bigger than he is. 290 lbs at 6'6" is honestly average build for that height. Maybe a slight dad-bod depending on how much he trains.
@kilo11: well I've got news for you Mr. 5'8" 172 lbs and it's that you're likely quite a bit overweight with a BMI of 26. Here I am slightly overweight at 5'11" and 179lbs. Check yourself before sounding off. Maybe don't defend the fat guy by saying you're also fat...
@kilo11: Agreed. Many years ago I trained hard, do very little weight training currently and carry a bit more muscle than average probably. Honestly I just wanted pressure charts that go more than 20lbs above average US adult male. Didn't ask for redesign or anything crazy.
@kilo11: No, seriously, go look up 6'6" 290 on google. I've got a few friends in that height range and they're nowhere near 290lbs.
This isn't a secret unknown body science, it's pretty well understood how these bodytypes work and look.
@ThreadedBB1day: so dude, they don't include up to 300lbs on the PSI chart as the fork isn't intended to be ridden hard under a 290lb rider. In order to get the PSI chart up there, they'd need to acknowledge the fork IS built to be ridden by a rider of that weight, which it absolutely is not.
Hence, yes, you f*cking moron, you actually are asking the bike industry to change their standards to include your bodytype. That's what I mean about semantics. Sound off less and think more.
@ThreadedBB1day: Really it should cover the AVERAGE performance minded bike rider, not the average American male, about 40% of whom are clinically obese.
@BarryWalstead: BMI doesn't factor muscle to fat ratio, it's literally only used because it's idiot proof and cheap/easy vs. skinfold measurement or hydrostatic underwater weighing . It's a worthless metric.
"as the fork isn't intended to be ridden hard under a 290lb rider. In order to get the PSI chart up there, they'd need to acknowledge the fork IS built to be ridden by a rider of that weight, which it absolutely is not." - Maximum rider weight is not mentioned anywhere in their long form service manual.
@kilo11: What's shitty is this entire comment chain was kicked off by this chud bodyshaming anyone that ISN'T as large as him, and so he's gotten replies in kind. At this point, you're selectively criticizing people because you sit closer to one group than the other.
Yes, body shaming is gross. You were not body shamed, but you sure as shit were silent about it until it was pointed at you. We often call this "hypocrisy."
I assure you, some comments here are going to come off as less antagonistic and shitty than others. I'll let you try to decipher which ones.
@ThreadedBB1day: The average US male is 200lbs, but also only 5'9". So the average US male is a fatty that isn't doing anything physical, let alone riding bikes. Why make a product for a group that won't be using it?
@FaahkEet: I wanted pressure charts, I literally never asked for redesigning or anything else. I've never broken a suspension fork in a lifetime of riding.
@ThreadedBB1day: I bet the average biker is less and not everything revolves around the good ol' cheeseburger eating American. You also said for manufacturers to do "weights FOR 300lb" people not for what pressure to use.
@kilo11: Literally the first comment in this chain, I didn't call you fat, but I have been abrasive to the person that started the conversation off with body shaming.
Feel free to call them out as well for unprompted shaming. I'd say "you're fat" is a lot less shaming than "you're not a real man until you're in the same weight category as me." One is a word about a body type with a stigma. One is a full ass phrase designed to attack others and make them feel lesser than.
@ThreadedBB1day I won’t down vote you I thought it was pretty funny. But serious question. How much travel or even suspension is needed in Florida? I’ve been there and the highest elevation I saw was a bridge and gettting on and off it was that steep or rough. ♂️
@blueH2Oj: Legit question, I'm currently on a 150/150F but feel over-biked after moving from south Florida to Central Florida. There are some jumps sections/areas up here but could prob handle them fine on 120-130/140F and be more efficient most of the rest of the trails, so that's what I'll get for my next bike. 290lbs and hardtails do mix well for me, literally a pain in the ass while riding almost anything.
@BarryWalstead: BMI means f*ck all. I worked in forestry and if had to be the weight to my height I'd barely be able to operate a pruning saw let alone a chainsaw.
@ThreadedBB1day: The reason the charts stop there is because the airspring designs can only function well within their parameters. You can probably safely exceed their max air ratings a little bit, but you would likely need a custom rebound tune. I have a Fox 36 831 on my dirt jump bike, and it maxes out at 125psi. I run it at 145 psi with 10 tokens with no issues. But that is also a fork/ discipline where small bump sensitivty and grip doesn't really matter. I'm 225-230lbs geared up on a 38 on my trail bike, with 120psi and 4 tokens. My rebound is closed yet it still feels almost too quick. If I was any heavier, and needed to run higher psi, I would need to look at getting a custom tune so the rebound would be able to work in a higher spring rate range. It's unfortunate if you fall outside of those arguably massive parameters. The XS and XXL humans are a very small percentage of the market, and it would not be cost-beneficial for brands to offer certain things from the factory like that. Adjustments can be made for sure, but that will be at the cost/ time of the minority.
@leon-forfar: What % of people riding a hard hitting 170mm enduro fork weigh less than 132lbs vs over 220lbs... My point is the pressure recommendations should represent the reality of the average users...
@ThreadedBB1day: dude, just get your shock/fork tuned for your weight. You think all the manufacturers are going to change because of a rando on the internet?
@ThreadedBB1day: Well, seeing as I have worked in a shop that mostly deals with mountain bikes for over 10 years, I'll tell you that there are VERY few people looking for bikes above that weight range. As mentioned, you can safely get away with running a bit over the max pressure. Most people up to about 240lbs are normally fine. Above that weight, we maybe get a 1-2 a year.
Great to use a reference product.
The forks and shocks with the biggest nose off the top have the softer mid stroke at the same ride height.
You can also buy a complete with a Fox 38 factory or performance elite relatively affordably (the cost of the complete a typically a lot less than the sum of its parts), whereas (as far as I know), there's no low-cost method of getting a bike equipped with an EXT ERA - you basically have to buy it full price aftermarket. I've never seen a complete specced with EXT.
Great review btw
They literally have no compression damping.
A shit damper evolved from a grip 1, have not filled the shoes of an rc2
Manitou at least doesnt cherrypick and Just throws a random untested fork ti the reviewers
There is a washboard section of trail I like to use to compare how well a fork can recover from repeated hits whilst remaining composed, with the EXT it was harsh, a 2023 Zeb slightly better, but the Flash smoothed it out completely. On chunky roots it never steps out of line, drops it takes in its stride and I really don't see the USD flex issues that people worry about (85kg rider pushing hard)
Likewise, the Flash stays sufficiently in its travel to never be of concern (although not quite as high as the EXT, but I also like to use the travel of my suspension, not just maintain geometry!) and takes the big hits incredibly well.
I haven't yet tried the Intend linearizer to play with the compression curve, but the standard 3 position token has worked perfectly well for me and gives a wide range of very noticeable changes based on how it is used.
What I would say, is that all of the modern crop of forks are so good now, that it really comes down to user preference in how the want a fork to feel. EXTs latest tune I'd way better than pervious ones, and yes if you are flat out racing, it's a great option, Zeb is a solid and easy to use fork, but needs a rebuild before using due to QC issues, 38 I personally don't agree is top of the pile these days, not least because the majority of people simply can't deal with the multitude of adjustments and in my experience they just don't feel as good as a Zeb and Ohlins 36 or 38 are better than ever as they have reduced the compression tunes to give a more compliant ride.
For me, until something new comes along, I'm staying on the Intend fork, not only because it suits me and feels better than everything else out there, but because it looks a whole load better than anything else too! Oh and a monkey could strip and rebuild it which is always good!!
Hope that helps :-)
Intend:-
180mm (591.5) / 170mm (581.5) / 160mm (571.5)
Zeb:-
180mm (596) / 170mm (586) / 160mm (576)
Lyrik:-
180mm (591) / 170mm (581) / 160mm (561)
Fox 38:-
180mm (593.7) / 170mm (583.7) / 160mm (573.7)
Fox 36:-
170mm (585) / 160mm (575)
Rockshox are very reasonable for the tools you need and the cost of parts.
@Thegrumpymechanic You do a clean, dust seals, gings, and oil, and new crush washers every 2-3 rides?
Some quick math I've done 181 ndes this year (2400km) thats 60 lower leg services and 15 full services. Lets go the high end lower leg every 3 rides and full service every 4 lower leg services.
Shop cost $8300 CAD
DIY Cost $3075 CAD for just parts
It's pretty clear to see where this recommendation falls apart. It's not feasible, nor necessary if your suspension is losing performance thalf way around a ride", it's not being serviced correctly.
Because this is Pinkbike where commenters think that marketing managers are making all of the calls at bike companies. From product development and engineering to sales, service, support and probably warranty too.
I get it when you consider how many bike companies are strictly marketing and distribution agencies with contracted design and manufacturing, but it's far from the standard operating procedures. Source - ex industry marketing guy
Lucky you that's a very privileged position to be able to ride that much.
However I get put 3-6 times a month, normally around that 4 figure. Which is a lot more in line with what most people manage.
That then results in a lower service ~once a month and full service every 3-4 months.
If you want to break it down into DIY costs, so far it's been about 40quid in oil. 30ish in seals. (Talking skf and maxima plush)
So, it's "pretty clear" it's a hollow argument to infer everyone does the same.
Might be worth it to take a moment to clarify what constitutes a ride, talking over ~1200m climbing/15km+ kind of thing.
Pro tip, if you've changing oil bath regular enough, you don't need new dust seals every time.
Also, I did say "I" not "everyone should", just that suggested intervals are manufacturer intervals are too long.
@jaydawg69
It's a case of reading wording on press realises, sponsored content and manuals.
You'll find some will give a range dependant on use and conditions. This is so the longer numbers can be advertised as the headline figure, but still able to cover their backs.
The reality of sliding Bush forks, as they still leave a huge amount to be desired, but atm meet the cost to make price points.
Seriously. Get the bushings fixed and you can enjoy the same maintenance intervals as everyone else.
The limitations of using a sliding bushing fork is the problem. They are inheritently high maintenance.
While it may sound like a good argument it's fundamentally flawed.
I am in no way saying there aren't sloppy/shitty bushings out there(looking at you rockshox), but bushing stiction is not the hinderance you think it is, if the fork is built to proper spec.
Why mess around with increasingly complicated air springs trying to be "more like a coil"... when you could just... use a coil... (conveniently forgetting weight penalties)
Not every coil fork is available with the correct spring rate for each rider.
Finding the right spring rate can involve a lot more effort and money.
No option to quickly adjust spring rates according to conditions. E.g. big jumps vs natural tech, full days worth of supplies in the pack, summer vs winter, swapping bikes between riders.
I would argue progressiveness is overated. It's all about the area under the spring curve graph - the energy absorbed by the spring. I certainly haven't felt the need for it on the Ohlins coil once set up right.
I do not support any brand that requires you to send in your parts for service.
Pretty dumb they don’t let you do a full fork service. That is not rocket science, but not so easy when you can’t get the custom tools.
They should really just sell service kits, the proprietary tools and put out a SRAM quality service video for the various services.
In their defense though, they think like a company that makes F1 suspension.......because they do. So, this might take awhile to get through to them. lol
Not tried to ser ice the Storia yet but I believe this is also pretty easy straight forward (though I'm led to believe the E-Storia needs a vacuum bleed).
(I have a Z1 Coil myself)
If I had a Performance or Z1 fork with the lighter lowers, yes, I'd consider the upgrade when it came time for a 150 hour service as the cost probably wouldn't be as hard to justify. The Rhythm fork is pretty heavy and there's no getting past that - I'm saving the $380 or so towards a Performance Elite or similar fork for next year instead.
And I was able to make indexing upgrade for grip without any internal modifications. You can find me on Instagram: @wytoczywiscie
Using a new Mezzer Pro, weights are coming in at 2350 grams with cost very close to that of a new Era.
Just saying...
I’d take the Hybrid every single time over the Era. Wish my old fork wasn’t a 27.5 so I could still use it. But been heavily considering selling the Era and going back to a hybrid
Open bath vs closed bath, meh. Not much of a difference performance wise to matter. Open bath dampers are easier to service, but also prone to more contamination, as well as cavitation. The other issue is that you essentially get a bigger air bottom out effect - oil level in moto forks for open bath is a tuning parameter that controls bottom out. Biggest downside is the flipping of the controls, the rebound is on the top, compression is on the bottom - generally for on the trail adjustments, you never really touch rebound, but you do fiddle with compression depending on terrain (like firming it up for steep sections so you don't fork dive on nose hits)
Air vs coil is the biggest difference, but not as much as people think. The effect depends on how fast you ride and what your preferred damper setup is. If you have a softer damper setup and ride slower where damping forces are smaller, then the coil can feel way more supple because of less seal friction and no ramp up. If you start riding faster withe a firmer damper setup, the damping become quite significant and sometimes override the actual response from the spring especially in the first part of travel. You can tune an air fork to be very supple by just changing the shim stack.
If you got money to spend, I recommend buying Formula suspension (fork and shock) where they make it really easy to swap valves with different shim stack tunes. Its the easiest way to see how much the shim stack affects the ride.
I always joke that an Avy cart costs $500 plus a conversation with Craig.
He can be a challenge but it's well worth it.
I've yet to find anything that tops my Avy Zeb w/ Smashpot conversion. Although I bought the smashpot before avy was doing the hybrid coil setups so I haven't tried it yet.
Technically an open bath and a closed bath can have identical damping curves, however the reason Avy moved away from his own closed cartridge is there are some issues with closed cartridges on mountain bikes, because the bikes are so light (compared to say an MX bike) and they don't have enough weight to sag some small spring that is in the damping rod. (this is how I recall that explanation, my apologies if I expressed this incorrectly)
I don't care so much about the 'coil suppleness' myself as I really only notice it in the parking lot and hardly feel it when charging. What I do like is the lack of stiction that a coil provides that allows a lightning fast reaction to trail obstacles.
However, there is a real problem with using an air spring and it is that spring preload (sag) and spring rate become permanently combined and you can't adjust one, without also changing the other. Need less sag to set chassis attitude? Well, it's going to cost you spring rate. Now it bottoms? Well add volume reducers. Now it lacks midrange pedaling support? Well too bad! A coil spring allows you to set the sag, with no change at all to the actual spring rate, a huge advantage.
The open bath design is simpler to manufacture, thats pretty much it. Closed damper require more seals, bladder or piston, and/or a dual chamber system.
The stiction of air seals is somewhat misleading. Generally, if you look at the breakaway force of the seal, its not that high. People often test the stiction when they are off the bike, which is not representative of riding condition at sag, where for small movements, the change in amount of force to deflect the suspension either way is much much higher than seal stiction. Bushing friction can also play a part. Some companies/shops burnish bushings in lowers for reduce friction.
All of this really just ends up a slight compression/rebound damping though. Most world cup DH riders don't really do anything for this, because its such a small amount for both. Tuning the shim stack is all thats needed. Fresh service also helps, but you can also use stanchion lube like Miles Wet Seal to aid in reducing seal and bushing friction in the intermediate.
>However, there is a real problem with using an air spring and it is that spring preload (sag) and spring rate become permanently combined and you can't adjust one, without also changing the other.
Sort of. Most air forks are limited in the sense that the transfer port is in a constant location, and you have certain volume to work with. The three chamber designs like EXT give you the ability to fine tune the curve. If you want the same spring rate but want the fork to sit higher, there is a combination of settings that can do this.
The main advantage of air is being able to run a softer setup at sag while having a firmer setup at bottom out, which you can't do with a coil spring alone. This is great for shorter travel bikes.
Those are two different things. The range of clicks is one, the ability to add support without harshness is another. Are you saying the Fox damper can't add support without adding harshness? Or just that you need more clicks to do it?
And where are the dyno charts to show that the Fox damper actually has a smaller range of compression adjustment?
"The 38 has the same damper as the 36, which at least in rebound has a great usable range, but has the same issue with the compression range being very soft, and when the air spring friction/hysteresis disappear you notice that a lot more because in most air sprung forks, the majority of the low speed compression "damping" is coming from friction and the spring, not from the damper."
If you hit a bump and it spikes and is harsh because high speed doesn't flow enough, that's overdamped, yes? If high speed flows too much such that is doesn't provide sufficient damping force and blows through travel on that bump, that's underdamped, yes? How exactly do you have both of those at once. You might have stiction from an air spring causing some harshness, but that's not the damper's fault.
V2.1 is excellent performance wise but…. At a cost
I hate that they try make them not user serviceable though. They aren’t especially complicated to service but you do need some special tools. The distributor refused to even sell me the tools so I had to machine some myself. They also hate selling spare parts.
That kind of shit can F right off, and for that reason I don’t recommend anyone buy these forks.
Now thats a good typo
Or you could just make sure to assemble the fork with the damper and spring rods fully extended and just dial in your air spring with whatever pressure is naturally present in the lower legs. If the air spring is good, you shouldn't need to add "partial vacuum*" to make it feel good.
If you insist on "fixing" an air spring's deficits with hacks, you could just always assemble the fork at very high altitude.
*(calling it "partial vacuum" is a stretch, it's just slightly lower pressure, not even close to real vacuum)
In a simplified fashion, yes, but in reality this is not so simple. Because the ++ chamber is smaller, the pressure ramps up faster in this chamber than in the + chamber, so it will be a constant state of ++ becoming higher pressure than the + chamber which will then cause + to compress against the ++ until it reaches the new higher pressure of the ++ before moving the piston between them further, thereby starting the cycle all over again...
Hence why this system is more complicated to tune than a just a simple volume spacer, but also allows a much wider tunability range.
If you don't like it, sell it, they're really easy to sell since a lot of folks are curious about adding a second positive air chamber. I won't ride without one these days.
4 full services at Jtech and Mojo. 9 lower leg services done at home by mw. A couple of internal updates done at Mojo for free.
Looking good for the next 3 years of use.
Would you get that value from RS/Fox?
that said, whats the point of the double positive air chambers if a 38 has a better spring curve anyways. a wildcard option is to pick up an old lyrik off buysell and put a bunch of push aftermarket components on it...
In other words, there is no useful difference. Reduce the overall spring rate* on the Fox, whether through bleeders or zipties or main spring, and it would likely feel the same on climbs
*(that's what the lowers "trick" is really doing: reducing spring rate of the parallel air spring in the lowers which reduces the overall rate)
Fully open on the EXT and the Fox was still faster with clicks remaining; and you're on the upper end of the spring range. That's kinda the definition of too slow.
The words in this article and the settings listed are saying it... So, if _you're_ not saying it, who is? Do you have a ghostwriter?
Wouldn't it make your fork feel skittish?
Did you read the article?
www.cambridge.org/elt/blog/2022/03/23/my-team-is-winning-or-are-they
And assuming you were the manufacturer, would you get testers that weigh cost to 300lbs to test it? Or would you go for the middle of the bell curve? I know what your marketing and development departments will tell you to do, not to mention the accounting department!
I do feel you as with many things in life I feel left out due to some medical/health issues but at some point you gotta roll with the idea you're a unique snowflake and keep on going.
But good on you for harvesting those downvotes!
To anyone reading, go google those numbers as a bodytype. You'll see exactly what I mean.
And yes, you idiot, you literally did. You started this conversation saying you wanted the bike industry to start building things specifically for people in your body range. They aren't going to do that. You're an extreme outlier.
Grow up, drop the entitlement. It's incredibly embarrassing.
How dare you recognize obesity when it slams down after a jump!
I said nothing about building, retard.
Reccomended pressures should cover more that 20lbs above the national average US male... That was clearly my point.
Now f*ck off.
There yah go champ. I suppose your other win is diabetes.
6'6" is huge. 290lbs at that height isn't.
Here I am slightly overweight at 5'11" and 179lbs. Check yourself before sounding off.
Maybe don't defend the fat guy by saying you're also fat...
Also let's try not to body shame random people in a comment section. It's just not cool.
This isn't a secret unknown body science, it's pretty well understood how these bodytypes work and look.
@ThreadedBB1day: so dude, they don't include up to 300lbs on the PSI chart as the fork isn't intended to be ridden hard under a 290lb rider. In order to get the PSI chart up there, they'd need to acknowledge the fork IS built to be ridden by a rider of that weight, which it absolutely is not.
Hence, yes, you f*cking moron, you actually are asking the bike industry to change their standards to include your bodytype. That's what I mean about semantics. Sound off less and think more.
What's shitty is repeatedly shaming a guy, who's a giant, because he'd like to be able to purchase products that will actually work for him.
At this point, you're kind of just being a dick about it.
Nobody wins arguments on the internet. Everyone just looks like a bit of an a*shole.
"as the fork isn't intended to be ridden hard under a 290lb rider. In order to get the PSI chart up there, they'd need to acknowledge the fork IS built to be ridden by a rider of that weight, which it absolutely is not." - Maximum rider weight is not mentioned anywhere in their long form service manual.
Nice speculation...
Yes, body shaming is gross. You were not body shamed, but you sure as shit were silent about it until it was pointed at you. We often call this "hypocrisy."
I assure you, some comments here are going to come off as less antagonistic and shitty than others. I'll let you try to decipher which ones.
But after you called him fat, someone else did, then you said something about diabetes, then I was somehow called fat so yes I said something.
These comments don't just populate until the page is refreshed so I apologize for being a step or two behind on calling you out for fat shaming.
Feel free to call them out as well for unprompted shaming. I'd say "you're fat" is a lot less shaming than "you're not a real man until you're in the same weight category as me." One is a word about a body type with a stigma. One is a full ass phrase designed to attack others and make them feel lesser than.
Just let it go, dude. Everyone took the L today.
But I never said you couldn't be overweight and beautiful!