Review: Factor Lando XC
Factor entered the mountain bike sector last spring with the Lando XC and HT bikes. Although they might be new to mountain biking, they're certainly not new to the industry. They own their own factories in both China and Taiwan and have manufactured for some of the biggest frame brands from mountain biking's old guard.
Their range of two bikes, a hardtail and the 120 mm full suspension bike that is reviewed here, caters towards the classic cross-country market and, although they're reasonably progressive compared to bikes of just a few years ago, they're definitely not downcountry or ready to rip trails. These are bikes for racers, weight weenies and people who want to travel at pace in both comfort
Their range of two bikes, a hardtail and the 120 mm full suspension bike that is reviewed here, caters towards the classic cross-country market and, although they're reasonably progressive compared to bikes of just a few years ago, they're definitely not downcountry or ready to rip trails. These are bikes for racers, weight weenies and people who want to travel at pace in both comfort
Factor Lando XC Details
• Travel: 120mm front / 115mm rear
• Carbon frame
• Can house dropper
• 67º head angle
• 75.5º seat angle
• 435mm chainstays
• Reach: 460mm (large)
• Sizes: S, M, L (tested), XL
• Weight: 10.79 kg (23.78 lbs)
• Price: $9,199 USD
• More info: www.factorbikes.com
• Travel: 120mm front / 115mm rear
• Carbon frame
• Can house dropper
• 67º head angle
• 75.5º seat angle
• 435mm chainstays
• Reach: 460mm (large)
• Sizes: S, M, L (tested), XL
• Weight: 10.79 kg (23.78 lbs)
• Price: $9,199 USD
• More info: www.factorbikes.com
In 2023, pinning down exactly what an XC bike is can be a cruel task. Is it the 120 mm Scott Spark? Or is it the hardtail-with-travel Specialized Epic? Although enduro and downhill bikes often get the credit for having some of the most ingenious design solutions, one could argue that the divergence between World Cup cross country bikes is just as interesting.
Could this contrasting approach within the heart of the category risk flattering nobody? Hardtails that are too heavy for the old purists, but a true-XC 120 mm travel bike will get the snot kicked out of it by any decent new-wave downcountry bike on any descent going. I suppose only time will tell. The limiting factor of a downcountry bike isn't nessecerily how well it climbs or descends, but rather how comfortable, fast and efficient it is on flatter terrain. While this might not sound exciting or particularly noteworthy, the way your sick enduro angles hold your upper body weight is very different to an XC thoroughbred.
The Factor XC is one of those thoroughbreds. To my mind, it is a thing of beauty. The lines are smooth, clean, and simplistic. I think there is a certain charm to the frame that blends some angular tubes with a flowing linkage and stays. But how does it stack up in this topsy-turvy trail-bike-obsessed world? Is there still a place for the true XC bike?
Factor makes some great looking bikes, and I would include the Lando XC in that. However, different colorways suit it better in my opinion.
The headset itself allows for a full 360 degrees of rotation, and that's where this bump-stop comes into play. If it's good enough for downhill...
Frame Details
The Factor's frame features strike a balance between practical and particular. There are some things that this bike can't shake, and features that will leave some heading straight to the comment section, but there also seems to be a genuine attempt to make this bike cover as many bases as possible. I like most of the frame features, including the threaded T47 BB, which gives the oversized option that will please some racers, and the threads and adaptor options that will satisfy the home mechanic. Plus, there is the option for internally routed headsets as well as the option to run them through the frame. Whichever you go for, there are blanking plates that come with the bike to cover up any holes.
Factor say they have a vertically orientated shock to reduce frame weight. This is because the BB junction of a frame already has to be reinforced, so it doubling up on duties can mean that somewhere else can go without the extra material needed to house a shock eyelet, such as the top tube. The bike uses a one-piece carbon rocker link and a split downtube. There is a small rubber cover to hopefully stop debris from going through the split. The system looks well-finished, but isn't the easiest for shock access. You need a special fitting for your shock pump, although it's not a big deal and thankfully comes with the bike.
![photo]()
There are also routing options for dropper posts. Although not featured in the build kit, I ran a 150 mm Fox Transfer SL dropper throughout testing.
The frame has three down tube bosses on the upper side of the downtube for extra placement options and the ability to house larger bottles. There are also extra bosses on the underside of the top tube by the seatpost junction for tools, and on the top side of the same tube behind the headset for any extra storage. There is routing for a mechanical drivetrain and a maximum chainring size of 36T.
There is also an anti-rotation guard. While on trail and enduro bikes this is an annoying feature, on this style of bike it makes total sense because the bars are run so much lower. If it saves your top tube then it's justified, in my opinion. In the headset, you'll find Ceramic Speed's SLT bearings which "require no maintenance and are practically indestructible."
In fact, the only feature I don't particularly enjoy is the road-style flat-mount brake caliper. In fairness to Factor there is no reason to run anything bigger than the 180 mm max-size rotor on a bike such as this, but I don't like the feeling of limiting brake options. There might be the benefit that because the thread is housed inside the caliper itself it stops you from having to bond metal inserts into the rear triangle which could result in weight savings, and also the added benefit of a symmetrical rear end which is claimed to provide better shock performance, but in my experience these reasons don't warrant being baked into running smaller, weaker and less cross-compatible brakes.
![photo]()
The Factor's frame features strike a balance between practical and particular. There are some things that this bike can't shake, and features that will leave some heading straight to the comment section, but there also seems to be a genuine attempt to make this bike cover as many bases as possible. I like most of the frame features, including the threaded T47 BB, which gives the oversized option that will please some racers, and the threads and adaptor options that will satisfy the home mechanic. Plus, there is the option for internally routed headsets as well as the option to run them through the frame. Whichever you go for, there are blanking plates that come with the bike to cover up any holes.
Factor say they have a vertically orientated shock to reduce frame weight. This is because the BB junction of a frame already has to be reinforced, so it doubling up on duties can mean that somewhere else can go without the extra material needed to house a shock eyelet, such as the top tube. The bike uses a one-piece carbon rocker link and a split downtube. There is a small rubber cover to hopefully stop debris from going through the split. The system looks well-finished, but isn't the easiest for shock access. You need a special fitting for your shock pump, although it's not a big deal and thankfully comes with the bike.
The 150mm Transfer SL is a lightweight post with an even lighter action.
There are also routing options for dropper posts. Although not featured in the build kit, I ran a 150 mm Fox Transfer SL dropper throughout testing.
The frame has three down tube bosses on the upper side of the downtube for extra placement options and the ability to house larger bottles. There are also extra bosses on the underside of the top tube by the seatpost junction for tools, and on the top side of the same tube behind the headset for any extra storage. There is routing for a mechanical drivetrain and a maximum chainring size of 36T.
There is also an anti-rotation guard. While on trail and enduro bikes this is an annoying feature, on this style of bike it makes total sense because the bars are run so much lower. If it saves your top tube then it's justified, in my opinion. In the headset, you'll find Ceramic Speed's SLT bearings which "require no maintenance and are practically indestructible."
In fact, the only feature I don't particularly enjoy is the road-style flat-mount brake caliper. In fairness to Factor there is no reason to run anything bigger than the 180 mm max-size rotor on a bike such as this, but I don't like the feeling of limiting brake options. There might be the benefit that because the thread is housed inside the caliper itself it stops you from having to bond metal inserts into the rear triangle which could result in weight savings, and also the added benefit of a symmetrical rear end which is claimed to provide better shock performance, but in my experience these reasons don't warrant being baked into running smaller, weaker and less cross-compatible brakes.
Geometry
This bike is available in the longer travel 115 mm version that features a 45 mm shock stroke, or a 100 mm racier version that has 40 mm. You could change this stroke after the fact or, if you were running the 115mm version, just run less sag and do without the spacer.
When you order the bike from Factor you can choose the stem length of your choice for the integrated bars. This is between 60 and 90 mm. If you're going to have one-piece bars and stems then this is surely the way to do it. On our test bike, we ran the 70 mm stem. This played in nicely with the 460 mm reach of the size large. The chart doesn't quote an effective top tube length but it feels relatively middle of the road. While at t just over 600 mm the stack isn't extreme for a bike of this ilk, it does give a low position that weights the front due to its height more than the rider being in an excessively long and stretched-out position.
The 67-degree head angle is very new-school XC, and along with the reach numbers and 435 mm chainstays give a bike that might not be trail-bike stable, but one that should yield a good degree of balance.
The relatively steep seat tube of 75.5 degrees does mean that running no dropper could be slightly more invasive than the slightly slacker bikes of yesteryear. That said, for an experienced XC racer this shouldn't be a problem.
![photo]()
This bike is available in the longer travel 115 mm version that features a 45 mm shock stroke, or a 100 mm racier version that has 40 mm. You could change this stroke after the fact or, if you were running the 115mm version, just run less sag and do without the spacer.
When you order the bike from Factor you can choose the stem length of your choice for the integrated bars. This is between 60 and 90 mm. If you're going to have one-piece bars and stems then this is surely the way to do it. On our test bike, we ran the 70 mm stem. This played in nicely with the 460 mm reach of the size large. The chart doesn't quote an effective top tube length but it feels relatively middle of the road. While at t just over 600 mm the stack isn't extreme for a bike of this ilk, it does give a low position that weights the front due to its height more than the rider being in an excessively long and stretched-out position.
The 67-degree head angle is very new-school XC, and along with the reach numbers and 435 mm chainstays give a bike that might not be trail-bike stable, but one that should yield a good degree of balance.
The relatively steep seat tube of 75.5 degrees does mean that running no dropper could be slightly more invasive than the slightly slacker bikes of yesteryear. That said, for an experienced XC racer this shouldn't be a problem.
The lower stay goes through the downtube, as is afixed to the front triangle by the same hardware that holds the shock.
Suspension Design
The bike uses a faux-bar system that is clean and elegant. It relies on a flex pivot in the rear end. That rear triangle is manufactured as one piece, and as stated in reference to the brake caliper, is focused on low weight and perfect alignment. The better alignment a system has the better the suspension performance will be, especially on smaller bumps, as there's less friction to overcome. It should also improve reliability.
All hardware fasteners are on the non-drive side, just to make your XC Insta spam really pop. The way the stay pierces the seat tube is also very elegant, and to my mind, the way the lower shock hardware fixes through both the frame, stay, and shock seems like a halfway house between a four-bar and a Maestro in its layout.
Factor says "The philosophy behind our kinematics keeps anti-squat in the 90% range to ensure the suspension will stay firm but active when you are pushing the watts." A value below 100% means that the bike should still be able to come into its stroke, even under acceleration. This should, theoretically, make for a comfortable bike that is very adept at finding grip under power on lumps and bumps.
The bike uses a faux-bar system that is clean and elegant. It relies on a flex pivot in the rear end. That rear triangle is manufactured as one piece, and as stated in reference to the brake caliper, is focused on low weight and perfect alignment. The better alignment a system has the better the suspension performance will be, especially on smaller bumps, as there's less friction to overcome. It should also improve reliability.
All hardware fasteners are on the non-drive side, just to make your XC Insta spam really pop. The way the stay pierces the seat tube is also very elegant, and to my mind, the way the lower shock hardware fixes through both the frame, stay, and shock seems like a halfway house between a four-bar and a Maestro in its layout.
Factor says "The philosophy behind our kinematics keeps anti-squat in the 90% range to ensure the suspension will stay firm but active when you are pushing the watts." A value below 100% means that the bike should still be able to come into its stroke, even under acceleration. This should, theoretically, make for a comfortable bike that is very adept at finding grip under power on lumps and bumps.
| Specifications | ||
| Release Date | 2022 | |
| Price | $9199 | |
| Travel | 115 mm | |
| Rear Shock | DT Swiss R232 One | |
| Fork | DT Swiss F 232 One | |
| Cassette | SRAM 10-52 XX1 Eagle | |
| Crankarms | SRAM XX1 Eagle | |
| Rear Derailleur | SRAM XX1 AXS Eagle | |
| Chain | SRAM XX1 Eagle | |
| Shifter Pods | SRAM XX1 AXS Eagle | |
| Handlebar | Refined carbon barstem | |
| Stem | Refined carbon barstem | |
| Brakes | SRAM Level Ultimate | |
| Wheelset | Black Inc 27 wheels | |
| Tires | Maxxis Aspen 2.25 | |
| Seatpost | Fox Transfer SL 150mm | |
A better look at the rear-layout.
One piece bars are annoying on trail and enduro bikes but it's hard to argue with them for this purpose.
Test Bike Setup
Setting up the Factor was relatively painless. As stated, I installed a 150 mm dropper post at the very start of the test period. I am of the generation where I've almost always had the luxury of a dropper in the time that I've been pedaling bikes off-road, and this dog cannot learn new tricks - especially when the trick features a high likelihood of wide-eyed terror, a sickening thud and me ringing Max the producer in distress to to ask him to come drag me out of a ditch.
There were some other kinks that needed working through in the bike's spec, too. Firstly, SRAM make good brakes, but I find their soft organic pads to be severely undercooked. On a bike with smaller rotors, small levers and even smaller calipers it makes no sense to peg the performance of the bike back further by soft pads with no bite. The grips also were also changed immediately from the stock dual-clamp SRAM models that came fitted.
Setting up the Factor was relatively painless. As stated, I installed a 150 mm dropper post at the very start of the test period. I am of the generation where I've almost always had the luxury of a dropper in the time that I've been pedaling bikes off-road, and this dog cannot learn new tricks - especially when the trick features a high likelihood of wide-eyed terror, a sickening thud and me ringing Max the producer in distress to to ask him to come drag me out of a ditch.
There were some other kinks that needed working through in the bike's spec, too. Firstly, SRAM make good brakes, but I find their soft organic pads to be severely undercooked. On a bike with smaller rotors, small levers and even smaller calipers it makes no sense to peg the performance of the bike back further by soft pads with no bite. The grips also were also changed immediately from the stock dual-clamp SRAM models that came fitted.
Location: Squamish
Age: 31
Height: 183 cm / 6'
Inseam: 82 cm / 32.5"
Weight: 77 kg / 169 lbs
Industry affiliations / sponsors: None
I typically ran the bike with 28 psi in both front and rear tires. In recent years I've spent more and more time on trail and enduro bikes. After a few initial forays out on the trail, I ended up spending an afternoon setting up the suspension with a BYB Telemetry kit. As a result, I ran more sag than one might typically run on an XC bike (30%) but I also got a bike that not only gripped more but made better use of its excellent and effective DT Swiss remote lockout. It was soft for grip, both going up or down and then perfectly locked with a very light touch. The DT Swiss kit, while not impressing me in every regard, at least does this very well and is a far nicer execution than most.
That's not to say all was well with the haywire front end though. The cable fouled on the steerer. It wasn't so much that you heard it when you were descending, but rather you could feel it as you turned the bars at higher angles at lower speeds. I'm not sure this is ideal for either cable or steerer in the long run.
Squamish isn't all enduro. There is some great XC and mellow-trail riding here too.
Climbing
The Factor is a good climbing bike, and strikes up an interesting proposition. If you've got a remote lockout, then it would be great to really utilize it and have a very very soft open mode, for ultimate traction, a middle mode for descending, and then the lock out for road section. However, I never really felt I could get the grip or tracking from the bike that I wanted. It's efficient, but I would argue too much so.
The claimed anti-squat of around 90% at sag for the lowest gears just didn't add up for me and it raises an interesting point - anti-squat values are just often harder to pin down and quantify than is ideal. The height of the rider's center of gravity, plus other factors, can easily throw it out. Before looking into it, I would have thought this bike had values of over 100%. There is an important note though - this is compared to other bikes that are limited by the same inconsistencies. So maybe the Factor numbers are correct, and other brands are a little out. Either way, I would have liked a lower value and better tracking for technical climbs.
![photo]()
For those that do want a firmer feeling XC bike, this does do a great job at giving that; I'm just not sure how that fits in with it comfortable marathon bike. It feels racier than that. It's a bike for turning a big gear at pace and using its speed and drive to get over rougher sections, rather than cruising and managing to seek out grip.
That then bleeds into compliance. It was hard to say exactly, but it felt like the 1450g Black Inc Twenty Seven wheels were a little too stiff for me. On bigger hits or chunkier terrain, it felt like there was enough flex in the frame to generate some comfort but on higher frequency bumps on seated traverses or fire roads, even when not pedaling, I felt like it could do more to cope with small bumps and stop the rider from feeling so rattled. Like I said, I can't say for certain, but that would be might first point of call if I was looking at dialing in the spec for some more comfort.
The bike, when up to speed, does do a good job of holding its momentum through corners and switchbacks, no doubt thanks to that low front end. Leaning into turns while climbing, and cranking hard is a gratifying experience on any XC bike, but the Factor goes forward with such purpose it makes it particularly enjoyable. The 60 mm stem and 760 mm far felt good to me, too, and felt low without being uncomfortable or unstable.
![photo]()
The Factor is a good climbing bike, and strikes up an interesting proposition. If you've got a remote lockout, then it would be great to really utilize it and have a very very soft open mode, for ultimate traction, a middle mode for descending, and then the lock out for road section. However, I never really felt I could get the grip or tracking from the bike that I wanted. It's efficient, but I would argue too much so.
The claimed anti-squat of around 90% at sag for the lowest gears just didn't add up for me and it raises an interesting point - anti-squat values are just often harder to pin down and quantify than is ideal. The height of the rider's center of gravity, plus other factors, can easily throw it out. Before looking into it, I would have thought this bike had values of over 100%. There is an important note though - this is compared to other bikes that are limited by the same inconsistencies. So maybe the Factor numbers are correct, and other brands are a little out. Either way, I would have liked a lower value and better tracking for technical climbs.
DT Swiss execute the three-position remote better than most, and you'll find yourself using it more than you'd think.
For those that do want a firmer feeling XC bike, this does do a great job at giving that; I'm just not sure how that fits in with it comfortable marathon bike. It feels racier than that. It's a bike for turning a big gear at pace and using its speed and drive to get over rougher sections, rather than cruising and managing to seek out grip.
That then bleeds into compliance. It was hard to say exactly, but it felt like the 1450g Black Inc Twenty Seven wheels were a little too stiff for me. On bigger hits or chunkier terrain, it felt like there was enough flex in the frame to generate some comfort but on higher frequency bumps on seated traverses or fire roads, even when not pedaling, I felt like it could do more to cope with small bumps and stop the rider from feeling so rattled. Like I said, I can't say for certain, but that would be might first point of call if I was looking at dialing in the spec for some more comfort.
The bike, when up to speed, does do a good job of holding its momentum through corners and switchbacks, no doubt thanks to that low front end. Leaning into turns while climbing, and cranking hard is a gratifying experience on any XC bike, but the Factor goes forward with such purpose it makes it particularly enjoyable. The 60 mm stem and 760 mm far felt good to me, too, and felt low without being uncomfortable or unstable.
I rode this bike on similar trails to what modern XC World Cup tracks are like - fast with moderate tech but also fun.
Descending
The geometry of the Factor Lando XC is fundamentally good. It's not so out there that it loses that step-to of a 10k race bike but it's also very capable. I think to go too progressive or slack with this style of bike can leave you in no man's land, with a very light bike that isn't burly enough for what it's geometry is for, but too sluggish to feel exciting and alive on the trails it should be suited to in the first place. All that said, it wasn't without its quirks.
![photo]()
Firstly, the forks are overdamped and also make some concerning noises. I rode this bike on the style of trail that makes me get excited about XC. In my head, it was very much in line with the modern World Cup courses, even if it might have been a little rougher than what some people consider classic cross-country. Even then though, I struggled to find I was riding in a way that warranted the level of compression damping these forks had in their most open setting. Secondly, when off the brakes and going through compressions sometimes the forks would twist enough that the rotor would rub and scrape very loudly. After another compression, it would quieten down. This was very uninspiring and not what I'd expect of a bike that is this expensive.
![photo]()
The suspension is a different story though, and Factor has done a very respectable job making 115 mm go far in terms of feel. It's smooth, it's supported and it would put some trail bikes to shame in terms of its overall feel. I do wish, especially with the inclusion of the remote, that the open mode was more open in terms of its compression damping. That said, these things are a compromise and I'm sure there are plenty of racers who would like it how it is, thank you very much.
![photo]()
![photo]()
![photo]()
Again, I still have reservations about the wheels. I felt like there wasn't quite as much torsional stiffness out of the rear as I would have liked yet there was still some harshness present. In my experience, this makes me look to the wheels. The Black Inc Twenty Seven wheels were tensioned very highly, which would support this theory to my mind.
The low front might be a little much for some, but the 460 mm reach for my large meant that I was always able to keep danger at bay, and it felt like it blended front-end precision with an ability to get over the rear axle relatively easily.
The geometry of the Factor Lando XC is fundamentally good. It's not so out there that it loses that step-to of a 10k race bike but it's also very capable. I think to go too progressive or slack with this style of bike can leave you in no man's land, with a very light bike that isn't burly enough for what it's geometry is for, but too sluggish to feel exciting and alive on the trails it should be suited to in the first place. All that said, it wasn't without its quirks.
The low front meant to you really had to push the bike through and off drops or rolls.
Firstly, the forks are overdamped and also make some concerning noises. I rode this bike on the style of trail that makes me get excited about XC. In my head, it was very much in line with the modern World Cup courses, even if it might have been a little rougher than what some people consider classic cross-country. Even then though, I struggled to find I was riding in a way that warranted the level of compression damping these forks had in their most open setting. Secondly, when off the brakes and going through compressions sometimes the forks would twist enough that the rotor would rub and scrape very loudly. After another compression, it would quieten down. This was very uninspiring and not what I'd expect of a bike that is this expensive.
The Level Ultimate brakes have recently had a big update, and that power would have been welcome during testing.
The suspension is a different story though, and Factor has done a very respectable job making 115 mm go far in terms of feel. It's smooth, it's supported and it would put some trail bikes to shame in terms of its overall feel. I do wish, especially with the inclusion of the remote, that the open mode was more open in terms of its compression damping. That said, these things are a compromise and I'm sure there are plenty of racers who would like it how it is, thank you very much.
The lockout was great but I have reservations about the chassis of the fork.
The Black Inc Twenty Seven are stiff - excessively so.
Again, I still have reservations about the wheels. I felt like there wasn't quite as much torsional stiffness out of the rear as I would have liked yet there was still some harshness present. In my experience, this makes me look to the wheels. The Black Inc Twenty Seven wheels were tensioned very highly, which would support this theory to my mind.
The low front might be a little much for some, but the 460 mm reach for my large meant that I was always able to keep danger at bay, and it felt like it blended front-end precision with an ability to get over the rear axle relatively easily.
Factor Lando XC
Santa Cruz Blur TR
How Does It Compare?
These bikes are so similar in their angles and dimensions. A few mm here, a 0.1 of a degree there. They do ride differently though, and it mainly comes down to the suspension. They have similar features, although the Blur TR has a better rear brake mount, and can fit two water bottles inside the main frame all while keeping them upright. Apart from that there isn't much to split them. Normally these sections can be quite long, but I think this will be relatively brief.
Simply put, the Factor is far more responsive under power and the Santa Cruz, when seated, is a lot more comfortable. I would say that in terms of suspension feel, the Factor offers a system that copes better with being ridden hard. It's kind of strange, the road bike brand has made a suspension system that works better for riders who push hard, and the mountain bike brand has made a system that's far more comfortable for those who wish to sit and spin. Then again, maybe Santa Cruz knows the importance of tracking under load and holds it in higher regard.
The Santa Cruz does have a trump card up its sleeve though - it can also quite happily accommodate a remote lock-out. I can't imagine a world where you wouldn't want its comfort when you can tune it out when the moment suits you. To my mind, it's better to have it and not need it than lack tracking no matter how open and soft you go with the shock.
Which Model is the Best Value?
The Factor offers a frame and suspension package for $4,499, a rolling chassis less the groupset and brakes for $6,499, and the full bike you see featured here for $9,199. I'm not sure any of them represent great value. If there was a frame-only option maybe that could be a good starter to put the parts on that you love. The Factors are nice bikes, but I can't say they're really trying to be anything other than what they are - premium and luxury mountain bikes.
![photo]()
The Factor offers a frame and suspension package for $4,499, a rolling chassis less the groupset and brakes for $6,499, and the full bike you see featured here for $9,199. I'm not sure any of them represent great value. If there was a frame-only option maybe that could be a good starter to put the parts on that you love. The Factors are nice bikes, but I can't say they're really trying to be anything other than what they are - premium and luxury mountain bikes.
Light, even weak brakes are one thing, but making them worse with porous pads with no bite is another thing entirely.
Technical Report
DT Swiss Suspension: The DT Swiss FT232 One fork (120mm) and DT Swiss R232 One shock did something really well, and have to take their share of credit for how well the bike handles repeated hits, but I do wish the fork could be run slightly softer in terms of compression, and some of the noises that came out of it, not including the loud slurp-and-burp of its damping circuits, were disconcerting. That said, the remote is one of the nicer ones I've used.
SRAM Level Ultimate Brakes: These brakes are fine for what they're meant to do. Would I prefer XTR? Honestly, yes, but sooner than swap them out I'd at least try some proper metal brake pads. The soft organic ones are just no good - especially when your XC, lightweight brakes don't have much power to begin with.
Dropper post: Should this bike have a dropper? That's hard. I think it deserves it and most people would run one. It would be nice to see it included, especially for that price.
Wheels and Tires: The Black Inc wheels are a strange beast, and I would argue too stiff. At 1450 grams they're also not the lightest, and for all that money I don't think it would be unreasonable to hope for something that was either more comfortable, lighter, or a combination of both.
DT Swiss Suspension: The DT Swiss FT232 One fork (120mm) and DT Swiss R232 One shock did something really well, and have to take their share of credit for how well the bike handles repeated hits, but I do wish the fork could be run slightly softer in terms of compression, and some of the noises that came out of it, not including the loud slurp-and-burp of its damping circuits, were disconcerting. That said, the remote is one of the nicer ones I've used.
SRAM Level Ultimate Brakes: These brakes are fine for what they're meant to do. Would I prefer XTR? Honestly, yes, but sooner than swap them out I'd at least try some proper metal brake pads. The soft organic ones are just no good - especially when your XC, lightweight brakes don't have much power to begin with.
Dropper post: Should this bike have a dropper? That's hard. I think it deserves it and most people would run one. It would be nice to see it included, especially for that price.
Wheels and Tires: The Black Inc wheels are a strange beast, and I would argue too stiff. At 1450 grams they're also not the lightest, and for all that money I don't think it would be unreasonable to hope for something that was either more comfortable, lighter, or a combination of both.
Pros
+ Modern XC geometry done right
+ Excellent suspension for pushing hard
+ Either-or cable routing and other pragmatic features
+ DT's remote lockout works very well
+ Light enough
Cons
- Fork isn't as good as other offerings
- Could be more comfortable
Pinkbike's Take
 | Factor's mountain bike debut is an impressive bike. Although not in the ways I expected. Factor makes road bikes for serious riders and world-tour racers, and this bike is aimed at a similar crowd - people who want performance and are probably happy to forgo a little comfort if it means they get a bike they can push harder. It's fast, fun and ready to rip. I only wish it offered more comfort and tracked slightly better when seated and pedaling. |
Author Info:
Must Read This Week
Pinkbike need to stop substituting their own prefered parts & review every bike as it arrives from the manufacturer
And then,the other 99% of the people who will be buying this bike will be riding it on little more than gravel roads,that's just how it is.
People like Pidcock who can ride a bike fast uphill and downhill are very rare, and it seems none of them are on here.
If you run said tyres with low pressures you know at least one area where you can improve your riding.
Quit trying to be non committed and caring of the manufacturer!
“I'm not sure this is ideal for either cable or steerer in the long run.”
You should say “this is dangerous”, because it is dangerous
In relation to pressure, it’s not as cut and shut as saying - but racers run less. Some do. Some also run inserts, and static droppers or thicker tyres. I stand by my pressures, and we need to review bikes that are setup best for the people reviewing them - not some conceptual person that may or may not exist.
on my xc rig, I could run 28psi on similar tires and also force them to have problems with sidewall. But if I don't think about it, I just set off and do the type of ride that these bikes are built for, matching my riding lines and energy expenditure to the time and distance I expect to be on the bike, anything over 22/21 for me is more pressure than necessary.
What you're likely forgetting is that XC racers - even pros - don't usually throw a bike into corners during a race like you enjoy doing, because it's a waste of energy and no faster. These guys and women are usually running less suspension sag than you'd consider ideal, and the tires act as a low-amplitude filter, taking the edge off the chatter while allowing the suspension to be firm for climbing and accelerating. Their setups are ideal for their use case.
FWIW, I'm on 2.2" Cross King/Race King tires with Vittoria XC inserts at 18 psi. I can get away with even less on a 2.4" Aspen. I only weigh 150, but raced pro XC as well as BMX and DH in the past. I just don't ride my XC race bike like I ride a trail bike. If I ran softer suspension and firmer tires, it would be less efficient for hard accelerations and out-of-saddle climbing.
I'd wager that those tires at 22 psi would be a totally different ride, but you make a good point that a rider more concerned with riding it like a downcountry or light trail bike would be better served with suspension components with less compression damping, or a different bike altogether.
As another datapoint, I owned a new Blur before my current Exie - the low antisquat value Blur really needed the lockout for hard accelerations or climbing out of the saddle. I only touch the remote lockout on the Exie for the road ride to the local trails.
Like Henry said, the suspension kinematics do not change appreciably until near end of stroke regardless of if you are running 20mm of sag out of 100mm or 20mm out of 115mm, IF the eye to eye does not change. However, the impact energy that the suspension is capable of absorbing does change. This can be represented by the integral of suspension reaction force over the length of its stroke, giving the reaction work done by the suspension. Longer suspension travel of a given 'firmness' is capable of absorbing more energy.
Ummm.. Yeah, they're faster than us. They're also like 2/3 the weight of an average person of the same height.
We could all run lower tire/suspension pressures if we were built like marathon runners. Few grown adults are though unless we're talking high level athletes.
I've been riding since the early 1990's though, so I learned to pick a line before suspension and with very little suspension. 16-17psi is faster, but there are some risks to it. I'd probably agree with most of these replies that 21-23 is the sweet spot. 28 seems absurd to me though, unless you are trying to use the bike for something it's not designed for. But that makes me wonder why you'd pick that bike in the first place.
1. If Henry was riding like a normal human he could probably run 21-23psi which is alot higher than Nino's 16/17 and it would also handle great compared to 28psi.
2. I'd like to see more of the trails he's riding in the review. I have an uneducated opinion that the Pinkbike reviewers are definitely fast but they are also downhill goons that smash rocks and corners on trails that are not equivalent to a normal UCI XC track.
I'd bet a UCI pro XC rider could make it down the hills Henry is riding some % faster than him. Then Henry could jump on that riders bike and immediately destroy a tire going slower.
I run low 20's on my Enduro bike, and 25-30 on my trail bike also. My trail bike has 27mm rims though and the rears like to burp out pressure if I ride aggressively over rocks and roots.
XC racers are probably under their listed weight in the middle of the season when they're training hard. So, it's hard to say very accurately.
People are forgetting that in an XC race you slaughter yourself up the hills and then go down the hill slower than you would in non-race conditions. Even more so if you are a good descender because you deliberately try to overtake on the climb so you aren't slowed down by the dirt roadies on the descent. So you don't need to worry about pinch flats as much.
And then there's grip. Can I climb steep fireroads faster with lower tire pressure? Absolutely! Because I can put more power down without spinning out.
You say : "Increasing the suspension pressure by 10-20% is a totally valid way of reducing the effective travel."
The thing is that this will also decrease your SAG and completely ruins the way how the bike feels versus how it was designed to feel. Its always better to play with spacers or even replace the shock for different tuning than to reduce SAG to single-digit values.
The Usain Bolt comparison makes sense if and only if the Enduro or DH rider is at the low bodyfat % of a world-class track sprinter. Some of the pros? Sure. But the average rider who says "I'm heavier because of all the extra muscle I have" is also carrying 10-30 extra lbs of fat along with that muscle.
Anyway, there are too many variables at play to tell anyone (without understanding the context of their rides) what psi they should be riding. If tires are squirming, burping, or flatting, you're left only to suspension adjustments for comfort gains. I assume Henry made efforts on tires and suspension before straight labeling this bike as harsh.
run a 28psi on xc bike , with more reason you feel harsh and not comfortable, is not the bike fault is your fault. haha
I own a Blur and the traction is has is crazy, when racing on blind trails it's super nice to have the confidence that you will clean a section of technical uphill every time because of it.
Now its 630 with 475 reach large or 650 with 495 reach XL.
Pick your size off your fingertip to fingertip wingspan, not your height. You'll be much happier.
My height is 73 3/4" and my wingspan is 72 3/4". Thats why I'm moving back to larges now that bikes have gotten bigger.
I ride the SID 35 and SIDluxe, you won't need any adapters for the shockpump and it is just ripping while being super fast on the uphills and longer adventures.
Also the wheels are indeed to stiff if your not doing races like unbound or something, it was a massive change in downhill performance switching these.
For me it is my go to bike and altough it is insanely expensive (like everything else nowadays) im really impressed what factor did on there first try on an MTB Frame.
Just for the fact of "roadies doing mtb" I would have liked to see the comparison between the lando and the cervelo fs
Cheers!
Respectfully disagree. Compare the weights of the wolftooth at 160mm travel (slightly over the fox in weight) and then the 9point8 dropper (weighs just less than the fox transfer sl) at the same travel, comparing 150mm travel on both.
The bottom line is every company claims to have the lightest dropper. It isn't until you dig into the specs sheet that you realize which marketing materials you believed.
A couple jabs of the brake normally fixes it. Happens after heavy braking in the rough.
Quit trying to be non committed and caring of the manufacturer!
“I'm not sure this is ideal for either cable or steerer in the long run.”
You should say “this is dangerous”, because it is dangerous
On the tracking - I think for a lot of people having a stable base is good. I came off a very plsuh 120mm bike from the past few seasons and love that I barely need lockout save for sealed or smooth climbs. I also opt away from the stock wheels for most races as they weight about 300g over claimed, and I prefer a lower profile and wider rim paired with 2.4" Aspen/Rekion Race (plus a liner in the back). And not at 28psi but I'm not going to bother critiquing what another rider uses and trusts!
I'd love Factor to improve the routing options (yes, wireless is real, but not for brakes as of yet) and I'd look at a slightly longer reach, and size specific stays. Given they make their own bikes, at this pricing that should be possible. I really like that it is a racey ride - it suits their market and as a racer I really like the pedal response especially on steep and technical climbs - there is no wallowing around. I'll be interested to see if they do more in the MTB space, and what a V2 may look like.
linkagedesign.blogspot.com/2022/12/factor-lando-xc-2023.html
"For those that do want a firmer feeling XC bike, this does do a great job at giving that; I'm just not sure how that fits in with it comfortable marathon bike."
Nice semi-colon usage ;-)
Also, that dumb little spar from the top tube to the seat tube is proof of crap design. Straight tubing, 34.9 post diameter, maximum dropper insertion are good to have on XC bikes too.
That said the fact that it's profile is pretty similar to other bikes is a function of where we're at right now in bike design, there is a proven formula for what works.
You aren't reading this via braille are you?