Review: Formula Cura 4 Brakes

Aug 16, 2023
by Matt Beer  
Prime Thunderflash - photos Tom Richards

Deviating from the two big “S” brands of brakes can be a tricky purchasing decision, especially when they’re so commonly found on complete bikes at all price levels, but there are several other companies out there making stellar brakes, such as Formula.

The Italian company has been making bicycle brakes since 1993 and hasn’t been afraid to experiment with performance theories, like their retired R0 brake that featured oval pistons. Most recently, Formula has developed a 4-piston version of their popular Cura series for enduro and downhill riding that stand out from the crowd due to their sculpted looks.

The appropriately named Cura 4 brake system uses four eighteen-millimeter pistons housed in a two-piece caliper. A pair of symmetrical master cylinders can be positioned in either European or moto-style (front brake on the left).

Formula Cura 4 Brakes
• Intended use: Enduro & Downhill
• Gloss black, polished, & gold finishes
• Feeling Control System (additional)
• Tool-Free Reach Adjustment (additional)
• 4x18mm pistons per caliper
• 160, 180, 203, 220mm rotors
• Shimano I-Spec B and SRAM MixMaster control mounts
• Mineral fluid system
• 160, 180, 203, 220 (6-bolt & CL options)
• 270g w/o rotor & hardware
• MSRP: €165-206 EUR (exc. vat) / $180-225 USD (exc. rotors and hardware)
• rideformula.com
Moving away from DOT fluid, the Cura is the first brake series that Formula designed to use mineral oil, which is less caustic and does not absorb water.

When it comes to setup, there is a full spectrum of rotor sizes and thicknesses, lever features, and pad options.

Formula Cura 4
The Cura 4 uses a two-piece caliper with four 18mm pistons.
Formula Cura 4
Mineral oil is the formula here.

Features and Specs

Starting at the master cylinder, there are two lever choices. The basic, cheaper option has a thinner lever blade with only a throw adjustment and requires a tiny 2mm Allen key to change the distance from the handlebar.

The brake set is available with the Feeling Control System (FCS) lever upgrade which changes the progression of the brake. The shape of the lever blade has a larger face where your finger rests and has small cutouts to improve grip. Those also include a Tool Free Reach Adjust (TFRA) dial.

Formula offers four rotor sizes in 6-bolt or Center Lock mounting options; 160, 180, 203, and 220mm. The smaller two rotors measure 1.8mm thick and the larger two are 2.3mm.

As for the pads, there are just organic or sintered options. The size of the Cura 2 and 4 calipers differs, so the pads are specific to each.

There is no differentiation between right and left master cylinders and each brake arrives with a 175cm length nylon-coated kevlar hose.

Formula Cura 4
Formula's updated Feeling Control System (FCS) lever has a two tool-free adjusters; the power progression dial in front, and the reach adjuster behind the lever blade.


Prime Thunderflash - photos Tom Richards
The standard lever only has the reach adjuster. Most multi-tools can't access the 2mm allen key between the grip and lever blade.


Price and Weight

All of the parts are sold separately, such as the adaptors, rotors, and bleed kit. The total weight for the master cylinder, caliper, and a full-length hose, including fluid, is 270g.

The brake system costs €165 EUR (exc. vat) / $180 USD with the standard lever in the gloss black colorway, per end, excluding any hardware or rotors. Silver and gold color options cost about a tenner more and the fancy FCS lever adds on another €41 or $45, per brake.

6-bolt options starts at €20 / $22 and move up just a couple shillings per size to €23 / $27 for the 203mm rotor. If you're after the 220mm big dog, that will run €52 / $57. Our 2.35x203mm rotors weighed 238g each. For Center Lock option, you can expect both the price and weight to jump up slightly.

The Cura's bleed ports are threaded with the same pitch as SRAM brakes, so that bleed kit can be used as long as it hasn't been contaminated with DOT fluid. Formula's bleed syringe kit costs €31 / $34 and 250mL of their own mineral oil blend goes for €12 / $13.

Formula Cura 4
The angle that the hose enters the caliper isn't adjustable. This wasn't a problem on this frame, but it's something to keep in mind if either of the Cura models are on your wishlist.


Installation

Fixing new brakes on a bike might be my least favorite task in the garage. Thankfully, there were no dreadful moments with the Cura 4s. The bleed kit uses quality syringes that thread into the master cylinder and caliper.

The process is as straightforward as most other brakes but less fluid is spilled excessively. Formula has published a instructional video to follow along with in case you feel overwhelmed cracking open bleed ports.

One detail that was surprisingly absent was an adjustable banjo angle where the hose enters the caliper. This wasn’t an issue on either bike that I ran the brakes on, but I’ve needed to manipulate this at unusual angles on other bikes to accommodate the internal cable routing. If required, a 90-degree banjo is available.

Back up top, I first ran the brake with the standard lever and when I switched the brakes to a secondary bike, I installed the FCS levers. This process takes some patience and steady hands since there are a few extremely small parts. Once installed, though, the TFRA made trail side tweaks a breeze. That FCS also helped to dial in the balance of the bite points and tinker with the actuation leverage.

Bolting the MixMaster clamps on offers a post for the dropper post and shift levers to mount to. The circular arm means that you have to torque the small M4 bolt very tight to keep the controls from rotating under regular actuation. They also lack any lateral adjustment independent of the brake position, unless you swap sides. Luckily, I prefer to run my hands towards the outside of the grips and the MixMasters aligned the controls well when the arms were aimed outward.

Formula Cura 4
Switching to the FCS lever brings more comfort, grip, and the Tool Free Reach Adjust (TFRA) to change the throw as when desired.


Performance

When I first tried the Cura 4s, they arrived on the Orange 279 last fall with the standard lever, and to be honest, they were underwhelming. That all changed when I swapped out the organic pads for the sintered version. My previous thoughts were flipped by the bite and power that these pads brought.

All of that stopping force didn’t come uncontrollably either like some other brakes on the market with double-jointed levers. The power that the mechanical advantage in the Cura 4 brings is extremely even throughout the lever stroke.

When the pads touch the rotor, there isn’t a sharp jolt as they latch on. From there, increasing the lever force ramps up the power quickly but predictably. What that ultimately does is stop you sooner, as there’s less frantic braking. You spend less time pulling through useless amounts of brake travel which I find leads to less hand fatigue.

That feeling never disappeared when the bike was hurtled down prolonged steep trails. Hints of brake fade occurred in the most extreme cases and where others die a faster death. They did recover quickly when released and remained crispy run after run from there on out.

Switching out the standard lever for the FCS blade comes with more adjustment and comfort. My medium size mitts matched well with both levers, but I preferred the larger surface area on the FCS option.

The additional dials let you tweak the actuation of the brake feedback considerably - they’re much more functional than the screws on other brands of brakes. In the least progressive setting, the lever can feel a touch sluggish or firm to pull. On the other hand, when the dial is turned all the way toward the positive direction, the lever can have a shade of vagueness to it. Primarily, I stayed in the linear direction for more direct actuation.

Formula Cura 4
Mineral oil is the formula here.


Durability

I’ve been running these brakes for the better part of six months and used them on both a downhill and enduro bike. They’ve seen plenty of wet weather, dry dust with zero squeals, leaks, or concerns. In that time, they did require a quick bleed as the pads neared their lifespan, which isn’t unconventional practice.

One of the top selling points for me was that the Cura 4 pistons never dragged once. Trying to set up a brake that has very little free stroke in the lever and doesn’t drag is tricky to keep consistent, unless you’re constantly fiddling with alignment, pad wear, and piston positioning.

Formula Cura 4
Not quite as elegant as SRAM's MatchMaker. The shifter rotated very easily on MixMaster mounting arm, even when the bolt was torqued correctly, and then given some extra zest.


How do they compare?

Price aside, you want to know what they feel like and that’s challenging to put into words because they don’t feel like any other brake out there. They’re a world away from the actuation of Shimano Saints with a longer lever and more abrupt, but predictable engagement point.

In terms of the lever pivot positioning, they’re somewhere between a SRAM Code RSC and TRP DH-Evo. The leverage is much more similar to Code, although the power per millimeter of pull comes on quicker than the SRAM set of brakes.

Would I take them over my beloved Magura MT7s? I still prefer the fast-acting and effortless power of the German brake but appreciate how the Cura 4 pads didn't constantly rub.

And how about Code RSCs? I'd take the Cura 4s due to the power that they deliver early on in the stroke and ability to stave off fade. You get more power for less pull.



Pros
+ Predictable modulation.
+ Power turns on quickly and evenly.
+ Pistons continue to run friction free.

Cons
- Not the lowest actuation leverage.
- MixMaker posts are not the most refined.
- Caliper banjo angle is not adjustable (additional parts required).



Pinkbike's Take

bigquotes Gravity-based riding and racing demands power and reliability from your brakes. The Formula Cura 4s might not be the first brake to come to mind, but their performance outshines the usual suspects.

Their lever shape and actuation is unique, however, there's no lack of tuning when upgraded to the "Feeling Control System" lever. They produce predictable power early on in the lever stroke which means you slow down earlier using less strength - a win win.

— Matt Beer


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203 Comments
  • 79 3
 For the love of god, please stop with the 8 inch rotors.

In what world does it make sense to make your size options 160mm, 180mm, 8in, 220mm?
  • 9 2
 What, you don’t like having to find 1.5mm thick washers to make it work? And then having to use calipers to verify they’re actually 1.5mm thick (multiple I had were like 1.41-1.43mm thick and the others were 1.5-1.51mm thick).
  • 7 0
 Don't forget 223mm rotors are also available!
  • 20 0
 @nickfranko: the uppy-downy (engineering term) tolerance of the pad in the caliper is prob greater than the 0.01mm you're after Smile
  • 15 0
 @Bro-LanDog: Yeah, and you also aren't after 1.5mm spacers. When you add washers, the caliper isn't moving perfectly radially outward from the axle. In reality, you would probably need something like a 2mm spacer under one and a 3mm spacer under the other (both slightly tapered) in order to get it aligned perfectly.

That's all to say that as long as you're within ~1mm and your rotor isn't rubbing on the caliper, you'll never know the difference.
  • 3 1
 Agree that the odd number is very unsatisfying, but look at all the other brands still using 203. Shimano, Magura, Hayes, TRP - just off the top of my head. Am I wrong or was it not the standard DH size for a long time before 200 came along?

Let's leave the legacy "standards" alone unless they're really obsolete. Marketing isn't a good enough reason to knock 1.5mm off the radius of a rotor! It's effectively the same size, but just enough different to create pad overhang if you try to use your old adapters.

Me, I'm still using 203mm rotors because that's what came on the ancient used bike I bought in 2019. Since then I've changed the frame and fork, brake system twice, and rotors themselves three times. Never all at the same time; so the size remains.
  • 5 2
 Given that the Fox 40 is set up for a 203mm rotor, I'd say there's still validity.
  • 5 3
 Hayes, TRP, Formula, Trickstuff: The best Brakes on the market have 203mm Rotors. Others too, like Magura or Shimano.

Why go for a standard from brakes which are really not good?
I would like to see direct post mount in 203mm on frames and forks. No washers would be needed and to the brakes that fall away you really do not have to grieve. (Besides, you could still drive Sram brakes, just with different brake discs).
  • 3 0
 If you're buying an adapter anyway, what issue is there with offering both imperial and metric?
I'm running 223/203 because why wouldn't I want the biggest rotor I can get?
  • 3 0
 @ridingloose: Sram does make 203 as well as 200 rotors.
  • 6 0
 Sram 200s are the oddball. I wish they'd ditch those.
  • 8 0
 I see a lot of argument for keeping 203mm and ditching 200mm, simply because the 203mm has been around longer. The issue is that either one will need to be phased out over time, but 200mm just makes more sense. It reduces the number of adapters that are needed to go up in rotor size. Right now you either need a 3mm, 17mm, 20mm, 23mm, 40mm, or 43mm. Once you get rid of 203mm and 223mm, you only need 20mm & 40mm (literally 1/3 the amount of possible adapters).

It would require the industry agreeing on what they'll all offer in 10 years and then slowly phasing out the obsolete standards. Definitely a bit of a dream, but you never know...

There are plenty of other "standards" that should be tossed (like at least 2 seatpost diameters, a bar clamp diameter, a handful of BB standards, a rotor mounting standard, some axle standards, etc.), but it seems the industry is heading towards less standardization rather than more.
  • 4 0
 Okay 203mmm will now be replaced by VENTI
  • 1 0
 @jomacba: okay, that was new to me. But why? 203 was the Standard for nearly two decades. I see no reason to make a new one 3mm smaller.
  • 1 0
 @ridingloose: The Boxxer uses 200mm post mounts. No different than DUB or boost. Same as HD DVD vs Blu-ray. It generally comes down to whatever company who drives the standard. At the end of the day, while I agree it's pointless to have both, neither are controlled under patent, so really it's about as relevant as the type of headset a manufacturer designs for. Most frame post mounts follow the metric option. There are challenges however that extend beyond these standards. The Fox 40 can run up to 220mm rotors, but because of the irentation of their post mounts, you need to use a 17mm adapter which is only made by NSB, otherwise you don't have full pad/rotor interface, which then causes uneven wear on the pad, which in turn can cause the brakes to essentially fail (relatively speaking) if the wear is left for too long.
  • 1 0
 @blk91: So 203mm rotor will be called 20?
  • 3 0
 @DaneL: Asking the bicycle industry to agree on something is like asking water to not be wet. The industry has typically found more clever ways of doing this. The UDH was a perfect recent example. As soon as this was released (Which I called the day of the press release, you can go back and check my posts to verify). It was clearly an attempt to get the industry buy in to change a current and in my opinion antiquated standard. The B-Tension bolt is a terrible design by today's standards, and is the Achilles heal of today's drive train. With major players like Sram and Fox and Shimano continuing to battles for their piece of market share, the battles begins at the OEM market. Create a standard, and hold the consumer to it. Only then can you guarantee aftermarket sales. Be thankful we are where we are. Once upon a time you were bound by proprietary suspension, and other shit standards like that. I think Brakes overall can use more development. I think splitting hairs at the rotor sizes is the last place we need to complain.
Just my thoughts.
  • 1 0
 @ridingloose: I somewhat summarized this question in my above response. Smile
  • 1 0
 @jomacba: magura have a 17mm adapter as well.
  • 2 0
 @Mr-Gilsch: Interesting. This is good to know.
  • 76 18
 Pick a brake and be a d*** about it. The right choice are dominions btw
  • 10 0
 These seem nice and I considered them before going with Dominions due to the Curas being out of stock. I can't say that I've used both brakes, but I'm pretty happy with where I landed. Dominions are awesome.
  • 4 0
 Correct on both counts.
  • 11 0
 I listened to the hype and bought a set of dominions a few weeks ago. Now I'm seriously thinking about buying another set for my second bike
  • 10 12
 My Trickstuff Maxima's beg to differ btw....lol
  • 4 0
 I think both are a good choice. I run cura 4 and consider using them for as long as I can keep them running correctly (which seems to be a long, long time). I just like the feel, the power, and it just never fades (even after 10km DH in Loudenvielle where the steepest parts are at the bottom, my shitty self dragging the poor brakes and holding on for my dear life).
That being said, I've heard only great things about the dominions, so I'd assume they provide the same level of performance !
  • 2 2
 Only issue with the dominions, the lever blade is an almost an actual blade. Needs to be flatter like the Shimano blade for my fingers liking.
  • 6 0
 I just installed a pair for someone. After the setup and test ride I immediately ordered a set for myself.
  • 4 1
 Dominions are great, but the Curas are very good while being a lot less expensive. Even more so with the excellent Cura 2.
  • 3 0
 @speed10: i don't ride with gloves and haven't had any issues with the levers
  • 2 2
 3 failures with my dominions in less than a year ..
  • 4 0
 @Inde-Si: do tell
  • 4 0
 @speed10: SFL or regular? I've run both and the regular lever is quite comfy, even without gloves...
  • 1 0
 @Inde-Si: tell me more
  • 1 0
 @Inde-Si: still better than the xt 4 pistons I was running. 2 levers and 3 calipers in a season. And you can actually buy parts from hayes
  • 1 0
 @nfontanella: well it’s def a matter of preference, but the tactile experience isn’t it for me. Performance is undeniable tho.
  • 2 1
 @nfontanella: What actually went wrong with your XTs?
  • 27 0
 I’m going to hop on quick just cuz I have the chance… random but to subject in a sense..

Anyone have any ties to Formula or have an knowledge of how to/ where to get rebuild stuff for Formula the Ones?
I have two sets of the Greg Minnaar editions and would love to get them properly functioning again. Thanks!
  • 133 0
 Hey Stormracing. BTI are our distributors in the US, drop them a line and see if they can help you: www.bti-usa.com

If they haven't got what you need drop us an email and we'll see what we can find here at the factory. We'll always try and keep a good set of brakes going.
service@rideformula.com

Oh, and just so you know the factory is closed over August for vacation, so apologies in advance if you don't get a reply straight away!
  • 2 0
 BTI lists a lot of parts for The Ones. Caliper O-rings, master cylinder diaphragms, etc.
  • 75 0
 @rideformula: "Oh, and just so you know the factory is closed over August for vacation, so apologies in advance if you don't get a reply straight away!"

I need to move to Italy it seems.
  • 97 0
 @connorjuliusjohnson: La dolce vita…
  • 4 0
 Not for nothing but the original The Ones are still my favorite brakes even after XTs and Hope V4s and Dominion A4s and now MT7s and all these years. If they would have had adjustable bite, I would still be using them 12 years later. The insane bite can't be beat on those giant 2 piston guys.
  • 2 22
flag nickfranko (Aug 16, 2023 at 12:44) (Below Threshold)
 @connorjuliusjohnson: as long as you’re female, you’re good. Italy is having problems with an efflux of women and a bunch of Italian dudes that have a harder them finding women.
  • 5 0
 @rideformula: right on!! Really appreciate your response back and info! I’ll reach out to them real soon and see what I can do.

Appreciate that as well, hopefully they can help get them taken care of but will keep in the loop. Thank you for the help!!

Way pumped to keep these going as they’ve always truly been my favorites so big time thanks!!!
  • 1 0
 @ranchcampvt: thank you!
  • 2 0
 @Sweatypants: always have been my favorites as well! Sure am pumped to keep them going!!
  • 3 0
 @nickfranko: what the heck does this have to do with bikes or brakes?
  • 30 0
 Cura 2s are a great brake as well. I've been running them on my Murmur for over a year with no issues.
  • 11 0
 Cura 2s with Trickstuff pads and large discs - amazing power - tested in Madeira, Les gets and Les Arcs.. zero fade.
  • 6 2
 Agree, I got tired of the XTs on my old bike and installed Cura 2s myself. So much better in every way. Plenty of power for semi-aggressive, 185lb rider, although traction is usually the limiting factor, not brake power because desert.
  • 2 0
 Hard agree. I’ve had a set on two bikes, both with the 200 mm HS2 rotors and have been impressed with the power and modulation and near total lack of fade, even at Whistler Bike Park.
  • 1 0
 Yep, have a set of each on different bikes , both great brakes, 2s a bit more Shimano like, 4s more feel and maybe a smidge more power
  • 3 1
 I know brakes are hugely subjective, but I tried Cura 2 for my "Downcountry" bike, and although it's very flat around here, they were not enough for my 220lbs weight in their standard configuration.

I loved the gold color and the modulation and setup were good, I just felt like I was having to pull too hard on the levers to get enough power instead of feeling like I still had power in reserve.

In fairness I didn't really give them much of a chance in terms of trying different pads and discs to try and "get" them to work for me, but at the same time, should I have too?

Just my 2c
  • 1 0
 @philstone: which compound pads are you using? Tried Trickstuff Power pads. Liked the power, the wear rate not so much. One ride in wet and gritty and they went straight through to the metal (having been bedded in correctly and used for one ride before). Back to SRAM sintered for me
  • 3 0
 @mountainsofsussex: I've been on Formula sintered for a while now and they work well. That said the stock organics aren't bad once they have bedded in.
  • 3 0
 @SonofBovril: I wileigh 95kgs and found both the cura 2 and 4 powerful af, and plenty - even on my dh bike
  • 3 0
 Unless you‘re well above 100 kg, and/or seriously fast, as in worldcup level speed, in my experience the two-pot Curas will easily deliver enough braking power in any situation.
  • 1 0
 I ran Cura 2 on my enduro bike and my winter Fatbike. Now I run the C-4's on my enduro. They have even more power but weigh more. Both are set it forget it brakes, notwithstanding a fresh bleed every season.
  • 24 0
 "A pair of symmetrical master cylinders can be positioned in either European or moto-style (front brake on the left)"

Isn't Moto style front brake on the right?
  • 15 0
 I've had Cura 4s for 2 years now and they're amazing. So easy to use and the bleed process is ridiculously foolproof, and I've only really had to bleed them twice in 2 years which is so good. I use galfer red or purple pads with them and they're excellent. If I bought another bike now I'd put on Cura 4s without hesitation imo.
  • 3 0
 Same. Flawless for 3 years. Swiss alp descents without fading. Cura 2s on the other bike for 5 years. They are fantastic as well.
  • 12 0
 Fun fact:
Formula has developed the Cura 2 as a Downhill brake. And they did deliver.
www.rideformula.com/stories/burn-like-the-sun-cura-brakes-at-the-top-of-the-dh-overall-2017
www.rideformula.com/stories/finn-iles-reaches-the-top-step-of-the-podium-in-lourdes-with-cura-brakes

But the market wanted some 4 pod brakes, so Formula developed the Cura 4 for all them.

I run the Cura 2 and I am very happy. Never had any trouble getting stopped.
  • 2 0
 the C-4's have even more power. More = better. If bike parks and black diamond back country are your thing, the C-4 is worth the added weight.

Love my C-2 though.
  • 11 0
 I ran these brakes for a year on my Fuel EX-e and beat the snot out of them in that timeframe. I'm a heavy rider, and on a heavy bike the brakes get put through their paces. Once I smoked the stock set of pads I swapped to Galfer purple pads and honestly I think the stock pads stopped better. These things are incredibly powerful. The only brakes I've ridden that have felt more powerful than these were the TRP DH-R Evo brakes that I had on a previous bike. That being said, the reservoirs on the levers feel like they're half the size of the massive TRP levers, so I was pretty shocked at how well these performed given their size. I just picked up a new bike and was about to order a set of TRP's again, but honestly I may end up going with the Formula brakes, they're just so good. Anyways, if you're on the fence, I would HIGHLY recommend these. I've ridden pretty much every brake available, and the TRP's and Formula's are tied for the top. The Code RSC's I have on now feel like base model Shimano brakes compared to either of these. The only brake that gets close IMO are the XTR's, but the floating bite point was enough for me to never look back at Shimano brakes again until they sort that out.
  • 1 0
 You're pointed comment about Shimano floating bite point makes are really good point. .
  • 1 0
 Yep, when I swapped out my G2's (appropriate brakes for a tricycle) I chose DH-R's... Holy shit.. I'll never go back to SRAM or Shimano.
  • 19 10
 "and does not absorb water"

This is not necessarily a good thing. Even quite wet (~4%) DOT5.1 fluid is still going to have a boiling point quite a bit higher than what you're going to see in an MTB brake, at around 180C, and quite comparable to typical bike mineral oil (Shimano's MSDS states "expected >200C"). Meanwhile the mineral oil is going to leave any moisture in the system sitting by itself, falling down the the lowest point, the caliper, where it can get nice and hot and will boil at a good ol' 100C.
  • 9 0
 I'd be keen to see a data-backed test where two brake sets (one DOT fluid and one mineral oil) are:
+ Baseline dyno tested
+ Used for a full season (1 year) with fluid top-offs (similar to Shimano "lever bleed")
+ Dyno tested
+ Fully bled
+ Dyno tested

There are some publications with really solid, data-backed findings that show stopping distances, fade, etc.
  • 7 0
 @TurboDonuts: This. Reviews are all well and good for telling us whether something feels powerful, progressive, or whatever, but actual data-driven testing is much more useful, especially when used in conjunction with each other. I wouldn't be surprised if there was some disparity between what a reviewer deems to be powerful and what a dyne proves to be powerful. The same goes for suspension as I would assume that things like breakaway force, damping (not all clicks are the same!!!), progression, spring rate, etc could all be tested relatively easily?
  • 3 1
 @samdaman1: try Enduro mag
  • 4 0
 Mineral oil seems to break down faster too. I still prefer it to brake fluid and my paint seems to agree. Bleeding Shimano brakes is pretty easy too.
  • 4 0
 @Mac1987: already onto it! Their knee pad tests are a perfect example of what we should see more of
  • 3 0
 Flush either system yearly or so, as one should, and water inclusion isn’t an issue.
  • 4 1
 Isn’t that the entire reason why DOT fluid exists in the first place? And why motor vehicles use it for brakes instead of hydraulic oil?

I guess bicycles are light enough duty that they can „get away with“ hydraulic oil in brakes.
  • 3 3
 The ol'reliable this fluid doesn't corrode everything it touches is enough for me.
  • 3 0
 @Notmeatall: Is this really a problem for people? I bleed SRAM, Hayes, TRP, and Shimano frequently and I can't say the the nastiness of DOT fluid really changes anything for me- either way I clean up spilled fluid/oil right away
  • 9 0
 @IsaacWislon82: DOT is also less greasy and easier to clean up. Both DOT and mineral oil (aka petrolium-based) need to be disposed of properly. I don't get the mineral oil fetish, it's inferior in every way except it can strip paint, but that's never been a problem for me in 30 years. Just clean it up properly... as you need to do anyways.
  • 5 0
 @JustinVP: exactly! And all you need to clean up is water. People complain about DOT fluid as if they rub it all over themselves.
  • 10 1
 "that stopping force didn’t come uncontrollably either like some other brakes on the market with double-jointed levers"

What do you mean "double-jointed"? Like ServoWave or SwingLink? Well, yeah because this one does not use a variable ratio through the stroke. The FCS moves the pivot point, but it's static outside the adjustment. It's apples to oranges: some riders like the changing motion ratios (pad moves faster early in the lever stroke), some don't. Doesn't make this better or worse, just different, but you went ahead and literally said the "double-jointed" ones come on way too fast for anyone to control, which is just ridiculous.
  • 9 0
 Bought a pair of these from Alba Distribution and I can’t fault them. They’ve come across 3 different bikes with me after I’d had enough of codes. Have a Shimano-like powerful feel but with way better modulation.

Would highly recommend.
  • 8 0
 Maybe I missed the comment but no mention of the Speedlock feature yet?! I've got Cura 4's and absolutely love them... added the speedlock last time I switched frames. Basically a quick release (think air compressor hose connection) for the rear brake that allows you to switch between internally routed frames without having to ever cut lines and re-bleed, etc.

Awesome addition, IMO - I did worry it might not be 100% reliable.. but no issues after a year and 2 different frames!
  • 1 0
 Indeed! My frame has outside routing but the speedlock is a good feature. Reverb remotes have something similar.
  • 11 0
 Moto style is front brake on the right.
  • 3 0
 This
  • 6 0
 Looked like a viable option, until that non-adjustable banjo angle. It's so Hayes 1993.

Because of the brake hose port location in the chainstay on my bike, the ideal angle for the caliper hose to exit the caliper is nearly 90° from where this one points.

Seems that the majority of bikes are at least 45°.
  • 2 0
 I think there is a hose fitting that exits the caliper at 90° for the curas
  • 5 0
 @Upduro: There is a Banjo adaptor for the Cura and Cura 4 brakes. Like you said it adjust the hose exit 90, but needs to be paired with a Banjo style Formula hose!
  • 8 0
 @Upduro @DirtGuru2: Indeed there is! Part FD40283-10, the 90º banjo adapter kit.
  • 2 1
 @rideformula: Could you link to photos of the banjo's installed on bikes please?
  • 2 0
 @DirtBagTim: Not got a photo to hand but when I do I'll drop a link here.
  • 3 0
 @DirtBagTim: check vital bikes check > Ghost > no purple no party, it has a 90° banjo on the rear caliper on a focus picture.
  • 2 0
 @Variable-Visual: Grazie!
  • 2 0
 @rideformula: love my Cura 4s Smile
  • 1 0
 @rideformula: The non-adjustable hose connection is a bit of a problem. Cura 4s are listed as incompatible with a Kavenz frame. Setup on my Pyga Slakline is also not ideal…
Definitely something that can be improved…
  • 2 0
 Thanks, @Variable-Visual
  • 6 1
 Great Review! Been running these with 2.3 mm monolithic rotors, easily my favorite brakes. Better lever feel than my MT5, more power than codes, better performance and feel than XTs. Also much prettier than those three.

Funny you didn't love them with organics, they're actually the first brakes where I like them. I did go aftermarket (can't remember who, somebody cheap), though.

Word of warning, Formula says to leave the caliper syringe attached and just clamp it while finishing the lever bleed. It was very easy to cause mineral to leak around the o-ring at the caliper, spraying mineral oil everywhere. Hence the cheap aftermarket pads. Now I just remove the caliper syringe before putting any real pressure at the lever.
  • 3 0
 Monolithic rotors?
  • 2 0
 @TannerValhouli: not floating rotors. Regular rotors.
  • 2 0
 @TannerValhouli: yeah, it's quite a name...
cambriabike.com/products/formula-monolithic-6-bolt-rotor
  • 6 1
 Just thought I would put this here since I didn't see it mentioned in the article. I bought these brakes when they first came out and they seemed to be excellent. However, I was unable to dial in the reach far enough for my hands. I like my brakes to almost bottom out against my grip and the formulas were a very long way away from that. I didn't try the other lever, but just thought I would mention it here. Unfortunately this info rarely seems to be mentioned in reviews even though I assume some other people ride with their brakes like mine.
  • 2 0
 I had the same experience. Aftermarket levers helped some, but even they aren't able to be dialed in far enough. The adjustment screw needs to have the threads formed further down on it.
  • 5 0
 "You spend less time pulling through useless amounts of brake travel which I find leads to less hand fatigue."

Technically you actually have to pull through more "useless travel", since compared to a lever with dynamic motion ratios, the master piston will move less for a given lever displacement at the beginning of the stroke. Not saying your feeling of less fatigue is wrong, but the reasoning might be.

Especially considering those big caliper pistons are going to require more oil displacement from the master piston to achieve the same pad displacement. The less fatigue is more likely coming from the reduced lever pressure needed to apply the same (or greater) caliper piston force, not less motion at the lever.
  • 2 0
 The reduced pressure is definitely a factor, but also having the bite point nearer the bar seems to change the muscle fatigue when using the brakes heavily on long, steep sections. When I moved mine in closer I noticed a big reduction in arm pump.
  • 5 1
 I made my Codes better with this one weird trick and SRAM hates me for it. Subscribe to my newsletter so I can sell you dubious supplements! Not really, but I did replace the calipers with Dominion A4s and the Cominion setup is pretty nice.
  • 1 0
 Cominion?? Ima have to look into that, just got some V4s from hope though, so maybe on the next bike. You using RSC levers?
  • 2 0
 @NoahMac05: RSC, would have done a full replace if they were Rs. Just removed the Code calipers and installed the Dominions. Had to use a NSB 20mm post mount for the rear. SRAM banjos might be a mm too small contacting the caliper, can see the o-ring a bit but Hayes compatible banjo I ordered measures the same so no idea but no leaks.
  • 1 0
 So you skipped the supposedly heavenly ball bearing enables levers, and still love them? Try the levers as well and you should have another revelation.
  • 3 0
 @Mac1987: Found the calipers for fairly cheap, didn't get a whole brakeset. If the Code levers crap out I'll be replacing them with the A4s then.
  • 2 0
 Very, very interesting. I've not heard of this pairing before, but it makes a ton of sense. Same hydraulic leverage as the Cascade calipers.

How does lever throw compare to stock Codes?
  • 2 0
 @AndrewHornor: I've only done a quick bleed to get it setup and test to make sure it worked, and was worth keeping the pairing. The idea was 100% influenced by those Cascade calipers. The throw is pretty good, maybe slightly less than with Code calipers but the contact is a little further out than I like with the reach adjust fully set to bring the levers in close to the bars. I've had that issue with improper/rushed bleeds in the past with the previous calipers so I'm sure that can be fixed. Was planning on doing that tonight but was pulled into a work cutover session that forced me to postpone. Hopefully tomorrow night.
  • 2 0
 @AndrewHornor: I'm sure you were waiting for a follow-up response to the bleed caveat that certainly kept you up many nights (/sarcasm), but I did get a better bleed done and raced with the Cominions today. The throw was much better and the contact closer to the bars where I like it but still much more powerful than the code calipers.
  • 2 0
 @FaahkEet: I was actually going to follow up tomorrow, after you had the weekend to play with it! Didn't keep me up, but I was definitely thinking about it haha. Thanks for guinea pigging this because I am definitely going to do it.
  • 3 0
 @AndrewHornor: Awesome, hope you like the setup as much as I do. I used Top Brake sintered pads, they were cheaper than Hayes and the MTX pads plus only option I found at the time that I could get fast - they've been great so far. On Friday I found Hardheaded Ram brake pads so ordered two set of their sintered to test. Pad set for front and rear cost as much as just one caliper set from Hayes or MTX and only a few dollars more than one caliper set from Top Brake. Hoping these are good too.

One thing long term to keep an eye on is the banjo/o-ring at the caliper - if you don't replace the banjo with the calipers. So far no leaks or any issues, no idea if there will be but something I'm keeping an eye on. If anything does happen to the o-ring then I'll either get banjos specifically for Dominions or just get a bigger o-ring, figure that out when/if there's a problem.
  • 4 0
 Triggered by Matchmaker described as "elegant". I need to set the position of the shifter independent of brake levers. The least interference between the two is what I'm after. Annoyed and constantly on the lookout for cheap shifter clamps.
  • 3 0
 Great review Matt! Stoked to hear the sintered pads were the change you needed to really get the power and feel you were after. It’s great to see the Curas getting some attention even after being out for quite a few years now. They are fantastic brakes. Sounds like I need to get a set again with the FCS lever to try out.
  • 3 0
 Great brakes, way better than a lot of the opposition and even the Cura X 2 pot had a load of power. If you live in the UK, Elro distribution have you covered with stock, spares and so on! Well worth a go if you want something that just work out of the box and isn't the cost of Trickstuff!
  • 6 0
 I'm gonna be that guy...
Hey @rideformula , we need updates on the dual crown Selva!
  • 19 0
 Here’s the latest info, [REDACTED REDACTED REDACTED REDACTED].
So, in summary, good things come to those who wait.
  • 2 0
 @rideformula: *slow clap*
Well played, @rideformula, well played.
  • 3 0
 I’ve personally ran Hayes Dominions, MT7, Code RSC, Saints, and most recently jumped on these. These brakes cost 200-400 less than any other brake mentioned and perform exceptionally well. Unreal value, the ability to get small parts, service instead of replace, and the modulation and power are fantastic. They’re the most consistent brake I’ve experienced.

Source. I get to play with a lot of bikes
  • 3 0
 Finally, review of these somewhat underestimated brakes that are more powerful than most on the market and also have the great "In between Shimano & SRAM" feeling. Have used the two pistons before which were AMAZING already, now four pistons in recent years, when they came out, purchased and never looked back for another brake option, have them on all of my bikes. The only downside ive seen is the stock pads going way too quick, but other than that, no issues.
  • 4 0
 I absolutely love these brakes. I abuse them so much, I don't maintain them, never bleeded in 7 months, and many more abuses and they work 100% all the time.
  • 3 1
 I ride curas on all my bikes (cura4 @ enduro, cura4 @ e-enduro, cura @ trailbike and cura-x @ XC). Amazing brakes, light, super powerful yet very predictable. Love the performance in wet, no comparison with maguras or trick stuff which both feel digital (0 or 1)…bleeding maybe every 2 seasons. Super easy. Sintermetal original pads hold forever. Well done formula❤️‍
  • 2 0
 I replaced Code RSC’s with gold Cura 4’s purely for the aesthetic bling factor and am pleasantly surprised to have more power and better modulation. The optional adjustable levers are expensive but take the customizable ‘feel’ to the next level. The 2.3mm thick rotors are also less prone to getting out of true compared to Sram Centerlines.
  • 1 0
 Uncertain opinion about them since 2020.
Front was perfect since the beginning (constant and powerful) with galfer green.
Rear : same leak on 2 different hoses at the level of the metal end. Pistons goes sticky in the time and don't go back well. Same after cleaning). Finally change the rear only with an XT...
  • 2 0
 I bought the very first batch when they came on the market and Formula told me they found out the pistons struggled to get back in - I had disc rubbing all the times. Finally the issue was solved by sending them back for a warranty check - not a single problem since then. I have 2 sets of Cura 2 and one of Cura 4 now Big Grin - basically on all the MTBs I have
  • 4 0
 Nice work Formula. Been hearing nothing but great things about these brakes!!
  • 1 0
 The symmetrical lever just allows you to swap between moto and trad _without_ a disconnect and bleed. Any brake can be swapped _with_ a disconnect and bleed. However on bike with internal routing, you may want to do the disconnect anyway to avoid wonky hose routing, especially if your frame actually accommodates hose entry from both sides.
  • 1 0
 Wanted to say that those are my favorite brakes and I'm running them for two years on my bike, but then I recalled that I never tried other brakes (except stock 2 piston tektro that were stock and we're swapped after a few rides). Running with Trickstuff resin pads and so far so good.
  • 1 0
 Very nice feel on the levers, kinda like Trickstuff. I guess these and the new Hope's are kinda on my fav list.

I don't like changing brakes as it kinda rules everything what you do with the bike and becomes such a imbedded part of your riding style. Currently on G2/Juicy 7 levers and Code calipers.

Would really like to try them for a year or so, not so sure about breaking the piggybank atm.
  • 2 0
 "...and the fancy FCS lever adds on another €41 or $45, per brake."
Nope, the 85ish whatever currency is for one lever, not a set of two ! Frown
Anyway, I'll give this combo a try Smile
  • 1 0
 Mounted these over the last Christmas break to replace my Shimano XT's. Huge improvement in modulation (power too but I paired it with a bigger rotor so it's not a fair comparison).
They've been absolutely great. In the beginning I had some rubbing issues but that was because the Magura rotors I paired them with were not quite straight. The pad clearance isn't much but once I had straightened out the rotors they were very consistent.
These brakes have really improved my riding compared to the Shimanos, I can brake later and still keep traction due to more precise control over the amount of power I apply.
After reading this review, I am considering the lever upgrade depending on the price. I see online offers for >80 euros per lever. Seeing that I paid 169 for the entire set of 2 brakes including rotors, that's a bit much to upgrade a perfectly working brake.
  • 1 0
 I've been running the Cura4s on my Meta AM since 2019 and absolutely love them. Used for gravity riding at bike parks, through to every day trail riding. The modulation and control when riding steep, lose and techy descents is next level. Have only had to bleed them once in 4 years also!
  • 1 0
 I’ve been running various Formula brakes (Oros, Ones, 3 pairs of ROs, R1s, and most recently Cura 2’s. ) for 15 years. Rather than bolt together cast pieces to save mfg cost, they’ve used one piece forged aluminum. Ridiculously durable, outstanding power:weight ratio. According to Formula the main advantage of the Cura 4 is more rotor clearance and modulation, but since I’m accustomed to the precise & firm actuation of Formula brakes I went with the Cura 2s on my last build.
  • 1 0
 As someone that wrenches his own stuff as much as possible, and fully equipped to service and running Shimano, it would be good to know how much total costs are to move to something like this, bleed kit, oil, spacers, etc. Reviews are good and I like this one, but I feel you guys are missing out on some good info for readers. If someone can detail what is necessary to switch, ie, just brakes, or complete rotors, spacers, etc., would be great.
  • 2 0
 The price of the bleed kit, oil and rotors is all right there in the review.
  • 1 0
 @farkinoath: you are right, missed it. Thanks. What I get for reading while working. Egg, meet face. Do rotors have to swap with brakes? If running same size rotor, do ya have to switch to other brand spacer?
  • 2 0
 @gmoss: adapters and rotors are pretty well brand agnostic. If you bought just these brakes and bolted them to your existing adapters, they would work with your existing rotors. For example I recently bought 2-pot Curas and swapped them onto my existing adapters and kept the Galfer rotors I was already running, the brakes they replaced were Shimano, no issues.
  • 1 0
 @farkinoath: I figured that may be the case, but also knew others made thwir adapters, so best to be 110%. Also, was not sure if Icrtech rotors wanted Shimano brand pads...thanks, this helps on a transition. Would like to see pics of the bleed kits for these, speaking to the article writer. Don't seem to be any on Formula's website that I found.
  • 3 0
 @gmoss: It's an extremely high quality bleed kit, all brass fittings with good quality syringes plus bleed blocks for 2 pot and 4 pot brakes. I didn't necessarily *need* it but the hopeless tool need in me is very happy that I grabbed it, easily the nicest bleed kit I own. There are photos of it on Alba Distributions website.
  • 1 0
 If you are seriously considering these brakes, I'd buy them from Europe. You can get a full setup on Cura 2's including new rotors (they use 2.3 mm rotos which are super nice) for ~ 250 USD. Their bleed kit is really nice too. Throw a few spare pads into your order while your at it.

www.gambacicli.com/en/formula-cura-2-black-disk-brakes-front-rear.html
www.bike24.com/p2223888.html

Check out bike24, Gambacicli, LordGun and other euro online shops for the best prices. You can also get parts in the US from Universal Cycles, Cambria bike, and a few others. However, I've found all the euro stores are noticeably cheaper.

The forums say people have run Shimano mineral oil in the no problem, however I haven't tried that yet.
  • 1 0
 I wanted to check these out when I was on the hunt for new brakes. Came down to these and new Hope Tech 4 V4's. Read quite a bit about seals leaking on the rears of the Cura 4's so I passed on them. The new Hope's are the best brakes I've had, and I've tried all the major brands. The quality and feel of the levers is amazing IMO. Would love to try the Cura's one day, but I can't even find anyone locally who has them and I'm near a pretty popular set of trails with a lot of traffic.
  • 1 0
 I have Cura 2 on my Turbo Levo and they're fantasic brake. After XT/XTRs, MT7, Guide and Codes finally great all around brake that doesn't have any issues and provides reliable service while being very budget friendly.
  • 1 0
 Cura 4 on 3 of my bikes...love them. I don't like the amount of play in the levers after a couple of months but this can be remedied by aftermarket levers (not a cheap upgrade though).
  • 1 0
 Have a pair of Formula Cura 4s on my Enduro bike and Magura MT07s on my trail bike. Both great brakes…
Too bad our local importer is slow in getting the new lever upgrade in stock !!
  • 1 1
 Matt, this or Dominions? Tried SRAM and hated them. Have Shimano and find them too undependable after not being used. Like my friend's new MT7s but have read too many horror stories. Now deciding between Cura 4 and Dominion 4.
  • 1 0
 Bought them for 200€ last year on black Friday. Even with the standard pads, they are way more powerful than xt brakes, not to mention they always have the same bite point. Really good brakes!
  • 1 0
 Never would have bought formulas in the past but these came
On a bike I bought and they are really good. Super powerful with 220mm rotors front and rear. Only complaint is it’s hard to manual, the rears so powerful.
  • 4 5
 Gonna be a hater here and give my experiences with these brakes which were the opposite of nearly every review about these.

My bigggest issue with this brake is their lack of modulation. About on par with my 2 piston Shimano XT's. Granted I haven't tried out their more adjustable lever set, altough I couldn't even if I wanted to as they aren't available anywhere.
Secondly the free stroke on these brakes is huge. I could pull my levers 2/3 to the bar with brand new pads (which were really finicky to set up rub-free btw).
The lever pull is also pretty heavy. I don't notice it on the trail but it takes a bit more force to move the levers compared to Shimano/Sram/Magura brakes I've tried.
One thing they do get right is the power. It has a stupid amount of power, but that is useless without good modulation imo.

I switched to Sram Code RSC's a couple of months ago and couldn't be happier with them.
  • 3 1
 you had a ton of air in your system, they have hardly any free stroke.
  • 3 0
 hope v4,magura mt5 ,magura mt7 ,,now happy my code rsc no problem perfect modulation and power
  • 1 0
 I suspect this is a bleed issue, which is finicky IME. I have 2.3mm rotors and no issues with clearance. Free throw is pretty short as well. So much of this changes with a bad bleed though, and that took some work for me. Can expand if you want more info.
  • 1 0
 Very different experience from many reviews and my personal mileage. Hate to say it, but it may have been you or your specific pair of brakes. But hey, you're happy now so all is good
  • 1 2
 @exactpeak599 I second your opinion. I installed a new pair for a friend and bled the rear after routing it in the frame.
The modulation is unexisting and the free stroke is massive (the biggest I ever felt). Even though I correctly bled the rear it felt the exact same as the front out of the box, both on Formula discs.

The shortest free stroke I found was on the 1st gen Trickstuff Direttissma, half of the Code RSC in my reference at the shortest free stroke adjustment.
  • 1 1
 @qblambda: the supplied syringes are too small....
And you need to move that caliper all around to get the air out.
  • 1 0
 @englertracing: The pressure was rock solid, free stroke has nothing to do with bubbles it's a distance which is too big from the feeding port and the piston. Piston travels too much distance before it closes the feeding port and build pressure in the brake lines...
  • 2 0
 Matt are Saints the quickest actuating brakes on the market? Which other ones actuate fast? Codes suck in this department
  • 2 0
 I hate fast actuating... fear fingers touch brakes and now you definitely not clearing that feature. Love my TRP's
  • 1 0
 I would say:
Hayes - I've felt the Dominion and that is way too much for me.
Trickstuff
Magura MT7 and up
Shi-gura's (Shimano (Zee - Saint) levers / Magura Calipers)
SRAM SRC's properly bled.
Braking Inca 2.0 / BCA BCARS01

Many brakes you can bleed to actuate faster, you just need to work with oversized width of discs or know how to overload the system, bringing the pistons out further than the usual.
  • 1 0
 @way2manyhobbies2keep: Yeah I like to drag my brakes every now and then without being fully aware of it. With these fast actuating ones, that's a lot of dirt and rocks that will be included on the diet.
  • 1 0
 @V7V: right! I wonder how many pro's run touchy brakes, (Heresay) Sam Hill showed my buddy how to set up his brakes and my god, what a difference.

my brakes dont grab until the lever is parallel with the bars, i can still get full lockup before they touch, the TRP's are very linear, its like they know exactly what I want. I've had way less crashes and kept better speed since the upgrade.

I can never go back, TRP'in for good.
  • 2 0
 Should we talk about the price? $180 USD is insane value for a complete 4 piston brake.
  • 1 0
 You can easily get them for less, too. Paid $300 for brakes and 203mm 2.3 formula rotors.
  • 2 0
 @TheRamma: Which is less than a single Code RSC
  • 2 0
 175€ for a set with formula rotors in France Smile
  • 1 0
 @Grovy: Yep, me too. That was through RCZ, which is a bit of a weird shop. Bike-discount had a good deal on those sets as well in the past but they're > 300 now.
  • 1 0
 Riding the Cura4 for several years now. Absolutely Happy. My recommendation.. Outstanding power and modulation with the Trickstuff Power Pads.
  • 2 0
 Bought a set with rotors for 175€ on rczbikeshop, amazing brakes for the price
  • 2 1
 I deviated from the big "S" brands to Magura M-7's and have never looked back! Better in every way.
  • 1 0
 I think a lot of people could benefit from a “Feeling Control System”…
  • 2 0
 "Not the lowest actuation leverage", what do you mean bud?
  • 1 0
 I own the Cura 4 and am quite satisfied, but dang, the brake pad wear is horrible!
  • 1 0
 I've got 2 sets of Cura 2, and a 4yo set of Cura 4 that I use on the front. Great brakes. Fit and forget.
  • 2 0
 I wish my wife had a Feeling Control System.
  • 2 1
 1750 mm brake hoses? So add in a longer hose to the price tag.
  • 1 0
 What's the red frame that these are mounted to in most of the pics?
  • 1 0
 Nukeproof dissent by the looks of it
  • 1 0
 @spicysparkes: cheers, thanks.
  • 1 0
 I love my Curas but is anyone else getting pretty loud pad rattle noises?
  • 1 0
 I LOVED these brakes! More modulation but tons of power. So dang good.
  • 5 8
 I've tried these and they're much better than the plastic landfill you get from either of the big S's. When it was time to spend the money I went for Hope Tech 4 and they're the best brake I've ever had.
  • 1 0
 I am really looking at a set of Hope Tech 4s. I've already read all the reviews but what do you think about them?
  • 3 1
 @howejohn: I'm using them, V4 front and E4 rear. Never thought I'd move on from Hayes Dominion A4s but then I tried these. Hard pressed to find any issue with these, power modulation fade resistance are all solid. As a bonus I find the calipers aesthetically unmatched, not even caring about Trickstuff anymore.

And nah no way shimano brakes are bad, I'd run them. Sram levels and guides can burn in hell tho.
  • 2 0
 @chaoscacca: I totally agree with the levels and guides. I had those for a little and they sucked.
  • 1 0
 @howejohn: ive had mine for about 5 months and they're great! So much adjustability, and they feel awesome. They tend to be picky about setup though, so if you get them, spend some time centering rotors, and making sure the pistons are firing evenly for the best feel
  • 1 0
 @howejohn: I'm really happy with them. They've addressed the one problem with Hope brakes which was a lack of power compared to the competition. Now you have the power with the build quality, reliability, customer service and spare parts availability that you can't get from anyone else.
  • 1 0
 @chaoscacca: what (besides looks) do the Hopes do better than the Dominions? Lever feel (ball bearings) and power/lever effort should be better with the Dominions according to most accounts I've read.
  • 3 0
 @Mac1987: blisterreview.com/gear-reviews/mtb-brake-shootout Hopes have more power and better build quality. The dominos levers I tried had similar perpendicular slop to a Shimano lever while the hope simply don't move perpendicular to the pull direction.
  • 3 0
 @Mac1987: i went the other way from Hope V4s to Dominions. Dominions were stronger to me. I liked the feel of the lever a bunch. Went from those to MT7 HC3's just cause I was curious. These are stronger by a bit and more initial bite. I don't like the levers as much as either of the others, and they drag on the rotor a bit if I bleed them to the bite point I like which is far out and touchy. I'm gonna try those Oak Components levers next year. Knurled levers just feel good. They're all real good though, I'm just being nitpicky and bored.
  • 2 0
 @Mac1987: I find the E4s comparable to dominions, and the V4 noticeably more powerful, and hence better power/lever effort. Dominion levers indeed feel more 'luxurious' but the hopes are perfectly fine. Both very light action and faultless.
  • 2 0
 @spicysparkes: great comparison, thanks! Apparently Hope has made great improvements with the Tech 4 version.
  • 1 2
 Mt5 caliper with SLX lever , 200$ per set, once you tried you will never go back
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