Goodyear is a familiar name in the automotive market, but they've had a pretty minimal presence in the bike world - especially when it comes to dirt. They've had a solid little lineup of tires for a few years now, but early issues with the performance of their mountain bike tires may have slowed their entry into the market. Looking to change that, they've been hard at work making incremental changes to the Newtons, optimizing their compound, construction, and pattern to best suit gravity riding.
It's a common complaint, but the mountain bike market has a tendency to be pretty myopic when it comes to tire choice. To be fair, Maxxis and Schwalbe do a damn good job making their lineups perform well and cover all the bases, but there are plenty more options out there that do the job just as well. After a summer of riding, I think the Goodyear Newtons belong on the list of capable competitors.
Newton MTF & MTR Details• Intended use: Enduro, Downhill, Trail
• Front- and rear-specific patterns
• Claimed weight: 1280g (F), 1130g (R)
• Configuration tested: 29 x 2.5" & 2.4", Enduro casing, Grip3S
• Measured width: 2.53” and 2.41"
• Measured weight: 1409g (F), 1244g (R)
• MSRP: $70-80 USD
•
goodyearbike.com Newton MTF
- Size options: 27.5x2.5, 29x2.5
- Casing options: Trail, Enduro, Downhill
- Compound options: Trail2, Grip3S
Newton MTR
- Size options: 27.5x2.4, 27.5x2.6, 29x2.4
- Casing options: Trail, Enduro, Downhill
- Compound options: Trail2, Grip3
DetailsThe Newton MTF and MTR are designed to work well in a "broad range of conditions from loose dust to wet loam ... at home on challenging terrain where high levels of control are required." This pretty much spans the gamut of what you'd expect of an all-round gravity tire, and that's certainly what the Newton aims to be. Up front, the fairly open and pronounced front tread is meant to clear well, with reinforced knobs that should resist any serious fold-over while cornering. There are wide sipes that only go about halfway into the knob, adding surface are without effecting the structure too much. The MTR is a more standard affair, resembling a cross between a Maxxis DHR II and a Schwalbe Big Betty. The knob pattern is similar to the former, with the structure and casing shape more like the latter.
Both tires feature Goodyear's Enduro casing, which utilizes two 120 TPI plies to provide stability and durability. The MTF utilizes the Goodyear Grip3S compound, which is their stickiest and softest offering. The 40/42/60a density combination is meant to offer a very slow rebound and provide the most grip possible. In the hand, it feels similar to MaxxGrip or Conti's Super Soft rubber, with fairly slow rebound and easy deformation. The MTR uses the slightly stiffer Grip3 rubber, which has a triple-density 40/50/60a layup, meant to balance durability and grip.
The tread of the MTR looks a lot like the Michelin Wild Enduro, to the degree that they may share some lineage. Goodyear's early attempts (2018-2019) at the mountain bike tire game were a little unsatisfactory, with hard rubber produced by a third-party manufacturer. According to some people on their team, they made a concerted effort to move away from that supplier, moving production to their own facility in Nantou, Taiwan.
| Good quality products take time and resources to develop and produce. As a key component to a tire, the compounds (3 different types in the Newton) were at the top of our priority list; finely balancing grip, and longevity. At this point we have lab and real word tested hundreds of compound mixtures to get to where we are today. Unfortunately, we can’t learn too much from the automotive world when it comes to compounding as the gross vehicle and rider / driver weights are off the chart in comparison to bicycle.—Ben Evans; Commercial Director, Goodyear |
The Enduro casing on test here uses a dual-ply 120 TPI construction, which manages to be quite supple for how durable and supportive it can be. If you're after something stiffer, the Downhill casing is a dual-ply 60 TPI, while the Trail tires use just one 60 TPI casing. For my purposes, the Enduro strikes a nice balance, and feels similar to other tire casings I tend to like, such as Maxxis' DoubleDown and Continental's Downhill tires.
Setup-wise, I was able to run quite low pressures with the Newtons without running into any stability or durability issues. In the dry, I was running 22 or 23 psi in the front, paired with 25 or 26 in the rear. When things got a little loose or wetter, I dropped down to 21psi front, 24psi rear. Generally a couple lower than an equivalent DoubleDown casing, for reference.
It's worth noting a strange issue I had with the very first set of these I was sent. They were nearly impossible to get seated on the rim due to a loose fit, requiring me to resort to some old janky tricks from the early tubeless days. Instructions, should you ever encounter this issue:
Put a tube in the tire, inflate that until the bead is seated, pop only one side of the tire off the rim, install the tubeless valve, then inflate the whole thing with a compressor or charger pump.I reached out to Goodyear to inquire about the issue, and they assured me that the set was probably part of a non-production batch, or some sort of anomaly. After mounting up another 2 sets of the Newtons, I had no similar issues, so I do think that loose fit was some sort of early batch issue.
Ride ImpressionsPretty much every time I hop on a new pair of tires, I expect a few sketchy moments to occur in the adjustment period, as I get used to the boundaries and edges of grip. After fitting up the Newtons, I kept waiting for those moments to occur, but the tires never really delivered a terror-inducing slip. That's not to say there's no end of grip on these new Goodyears, but it's well past the point of commitment, meaning they hook up quite well when you're pushing them hard.
I received my test set a few weeks before the start of Crankworx, and had some time on them at home before deciding that bike and tire combo would be the one I took with me for two weeks of Whistler laps and lots of pedaling. Long story short, I'm quite happy with my choices. More on the bike side of things later, for now let's stick to the tires.
The Newton MTF has a really nicely rounded profile, a feature I've come to look for in aggressive tires, as the smooth lean angle you get with a nice round casing means they're less likely to break away on sketchier terrain. If you're only riding in deep soil, you can get away with something edgier, but when loose conditions are present, round feels correct. Out back, however, I like the fairly flat-top profile of the MTR as it serves as a great braking anchor when needed, plus it breaks away before the front, a sensation that I tend to prefer.
That shape profile is matched with the slightly different rubber compounds in the front and rear tire, which biases towards sticker and slower rebound up front, and firmer and faster rolling in the rear - again, a combo that makes sense to me. The Grip3S front rubber is very soft, without feeling too wiggly on rocks and roots, and holds its own in wet conditions. Same goes for the rear, though it's ever so slightly worse in the wet. One of the longer days of Crankworx was an all-day pedal ride with a bunch of industry folks that happened to coincide with a dawn to dusk downpour that only let up as we were finishing our day up back at the Village. This was the first truly wet weather I'd ridden the Newtons in, and I really came away impressed. They stuck to muddy slabs nearly as well as the MaxxGrip boots everyone else was wearing, and though they might've been ever so slightly slipperier on wet roots, I never felt like they were holding me back.
Luckily, most of the weather through Crankworx was much more warm and pleasant, meaning there were plenty of dry park laps to take the Goodyears down. Despite the soft rubber and prominent knobs, they really held up well, only showing minimal wear after plenty of downhill miles. I've continued to ride the same set in Bellingham (where tires do seem to last a very long time), and they're still going strong. I'm now running three pairs on different bikes, and haven't had any flats or unusually quick wear.
One area where the Newton MTF falls a bit behind other aggressive tires like the Specialized Cannibal, Maxxis DHF, or Schwalbe Tacky Chan is in very hard-pack corners, where you'll have to lean the Goodyears a little bit farther than you might want to really get side knob engagement. I didn't find them too sketchy in these settings, but I'm also relatiively light at 180 lbs, so bigger riders might be stressing those fat side knobs a little more than they can handle in huge bike park berms.
The only real downside I can think of with the Newtons is the weight. At 1200-1400 grams for the Enduro range, they're in keeping with other competitive options, but the measured numbers are a good bit higher than the stated weights. To me this wasn't really an issue, but I know there are plenty of people who'd rather not roll around on a few kilos of rubber. Those people probably don't want tread this aggressive though, so they'll likely keep their distance.
Pros
+ Excellent mechanical grip in loose and challenging conditions
+ Sticky rubber that works fine in the wet
+ Front and rear combo compliment each other nicely
+ Impressive durability
Cons
- A good bit heavier than claimed weight
- Not the absolute best wet-weather grip, but quite good
Pinkbike's Take | After subjecting them to a wide range of conditions, plenty of miles, and quite a few bad lines, the Goodyear Newtons have really impressed me. I'll admit some initial skepticism given their earlier offerings, but the sticky rubber, robust yet supple casing, and well-rounded tread patterns won me over. I'd feel confident throwing the Newtons on any sort of gravity-biased bike, knowing the grip will be there even when things are loose.— Dario DiGiulio |
They were tested in Whistler and Bellingham, among other locations, so they experienced the gamut of conditions from hardpacked and rocky to softer and looser.
Does it really make that much of a difference if its .1 off of what the sidewall states?
If youre frame tolerance is so close that .1 or so is the deciding factor, youre prolly running too wide a tire
Not everyone has the luxury of being able to clear huge tires, but they can still run a 30mm ID rim on said frame.
My comment still stands, at what point are the measurements to be taken, at what psi (max stated on tire, or what the tester rode), what rim width, volume. All these variables play into the measured tire width.
If youre running tires that are that close, youre running the wrong size tire, as wheels and tires deflect when being ridden.
The info is about as useful as knowing what fork settings Kade Edwards uses at Hardline
They were some XC tires, so the number itself isn't relevant here, only the fact that measurement is important.
The front tire is pretty decent. Even after putting about 1000 miles between a MTF Enduro and Trail I can't really find much it does better in one particular area compared to the other big brands, it just kinda works. Not the grippiest tread or even compound. The wide spaced sideknobs work despite what armchair experts would claim. It's just not the grippiest front tire out there. If I want maximum front grip for a steep venue I'll just put a doubledown maxxgrip Assegai up front. But they suck to pedal. Putting the MTF Trail on after a race weekend felt like I had a tailwind on the canals and gravel I pedal to the trails
I think most people have experienced how some (for example) Maxxis 2.5" tyres on a typical 30mm rim actually come out at more like 2.3" (at typical riding pressures 25psi say) while a Specialized 2.4 actually comes out a little over 2.4 (or at least it did for me on my last swap).
There is PLENTY of space on the internet to measure BOTH the carcass and the knob-width (sn*gger) and put it in the article.
Carcass volume is a HUGE factor in how tyres behave, it isn't just a case of running the fattest tyre that will fit.
Bike looks great,
reebcycles.com/collections/steezl
I think its the gusset at the seat tube top tube junction, the square raw tubing used in the rear triangle, and the link/shock layout.
looks great
Buy a Minion instead.
being old and being able to just buy what you want, is pretty nice.
really, in my mid 40's, I am faster and more technically proficient than I was in my 20's. a lot of riding, waaaaaay f*cking better bikes, and I didn't let my body go to shit. lol. hopefully I got another 8-10 at this ability before time tells me to back it down. cheers!
Also - amen to all of that. Part of it is trusting your own skills, and the bike and not ride scared or over brake which is when you have problems.
Tried some a few Contis, Schwalbe, E13, Vittorias, and I have a GY MTF hanging in my garage when I retire the Mazza I have now. I like Maxxis, but I like experimenting more.
BTW, I have had success with the Delium Rugged All-Round 29 x 2.5 on the front. Not bad, for a $50 tire. 8.4/10. "One bite, you know the rules." The Delium Fast Light 29 x 2.4 center tread didn't last long on the rear, but the side knobs stick pretty good: 7.8/10. Can't complain that much for $40.
Want to test the American Classics next... listed on Amazon for $50.
This is a ridiculous comment. For a lot of people and places around the PNW, aggressive tread with sticky rubber and a light casing is exactly what is needed. It’s why I stick with Maxxis as they are the only company to offer MaxxGrip (or equivalent) in sub 1k weight (27.5). I’m 195lbs, don’t ride slow and never flat exo rear at 25psi. Why drag all that extra weight around if you don’t have to.
Thicker casings seem to give better damping.
You can run pressures much lower than 25 psi and not have problems.
Heavier tyres deflect less on rooty/rocky sections of trail.
I think a lot of people run their tyres way too hard. There was a review on here a while back of the Vittoria Mazza in the heaviest casing and the reviewer was running it at 28psi! You don't even see heavier world cup DH riders running their tyres that high at most tracks.
For any natural stuff, especially in the wet, I've found pressures towards the bottom end of the spectrum to give so much more extra grip that it's worth the trade off in rolling speed.
They run into the opposite problem, that every thick casing tire feels harsh and can’t conform to the ground.
But they still need soft rubber for grip. Maybe even more so than heavier guys because there is less weight on the contact patch to generate traction.
Michelin and Maxxis: "you're welcome".
225lbs
Bike:
2023 RM Instinct XL
160mm Fox 36
157 Marzocchi Bomber CR coil
I’ve been running this Enduro combo all season. I instruct and have 550 hours on the bike season. Mostly trail riding, about 7 days lift access. It has been wet in Eastern Canada I’d say 85% of my rides this season. Ridden at Gatineau Parc, VBN, SDM, Sutton, Bromont, Beachburg, MSM, Camp Fortune, Vorlage, Wolf Bike Park, Tremblant.
The Goodyear tires are great for me. Using a Maxxis DHF + DHR as a standard, and a Maxxis Assegai+Agressor as my preferred combo, I’d say the Goodyears hook up better in the rear across broader conditions that DHR or Agressor (to be expected) and rolls slightly slower. The front corners slightly faster that a DHF but not as fast as and Assegai but is easier to hold in a lot of conditions and is between the 2 for speed. I think the Goodyears grip better overall especially in roots and rough rock gardens.
The front tire has a nice rounded profile like a DHF but has better grip ip for me and better braking even when leaned over cornering. The rear is much more square than and Agressor and bites more than a DHR in corners which makes it hard to break it away from the turf if you like that style. In certain tight corners more rear wheel unweighting or even lifting is necessary to get the rear end out of the dirt.
I run Tannus inserts all the time but I don’t think they are necessary with the Goodyears at 22+psi. Installing them on RaceFace rims is easy if you lube the bead with some dish soap or Schwalbe bead lube. Without lube the rubber is very sticky going over the bead. If you’re using inserts in the rear 2.4” be sure to use soap and water all around the tire insert so it can slide against the sticky rubber for installation.
Both tires were done for me at 230 hours and replaced which is slightly less than an DHF or Assegai (250 hours max) and less than Aggressor (300 hours) and more than a DHR rear (200 hours max). Overall value is in the increased performance across broad conditions and terrain.
Is it worth trying these? If you ride a lot and you know you’re going to go through 2 sets of tires, I’d say try them as a pair. At $70.ea, yes do it. If you’re looking to match tires to your riding style, maybe holding longer berm corners (better rear grip) or pumping with more front for aggressive carving across trails, these are worth a try. I have Assegai + Aggressor on my Chromag Rootdown and I don’t find them as predictable as rhe Goodyears. (And I like breaking the back tire away on the hardtail’
If you’re paying full price for tires and you don’t need new ones more this once in a season, stick with what you know, it’s hard to fault DHF + DHR for most riders.
Most importantly, they have lasted much longer than the Maxxis. Maxxis side knobs blow out so quickly. So I'll take the Goodyear stuff now. I just ordered my second set at US$56 per tire on sale.
I wish e13 mopo dh casing tires lasted longer and didn’t flat as easily cuz they’re cheaper and often run sales. And as close to maxxgrip as I’ve found.
These bike tires are designed by „Rubber Kinetics“, who license the Goodyear name for this range.
See: www.rubbernews.com/article/20180410/NEWS/180419995/licensee-rolls-out-goodyear-brand-premium-bicycle-tire-range
Assegai 2.5 1082g,
Krytotal FR 2.4 1040g
Pretty comparable.
200g difference between the DH casings (1290g vs 1493g)
What do you make of the Tacky Chan compared to the stalwarts?
Love you guys, but sorry the reviews over there are blowing you out of the water.
nsmb.com/articles/goodyear-newton-tires