Marzocchi Bomber Air
Marzocchi made its name back in the mid-90's for their burly forks that helped launch the freeride era. Since then, the brand was purchased by the Fox/Race Face group and continues to carve its name in the world outside of race tape and timing systems. Coil suspension is what made Marzocchi famous in that genre, but the addition of the Bomber Air shock has been a welcomed addition to the lineup for riders seeking more progression.
Bomber Air Details• Low-speed compression - 180-degree dial
• Rebound - 13 clicks
• Weight: 504 grams
• Price: $479 USD
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marzocchi.com This straightforward air sprung damper comes in at $479, nearly half the cost, and half the size, as the larger, more complicated shocks in our group test. With only rebound and compression adjusters, does that mean that the Bomber Air is any lesser than the big dogs?
SetupSet it and forget it - the Marzocchi Bomber Air is the rotisserie oven of air shocks, at least on our Nomad test sled. Aside from altering the air pressure and rebound to match the spring rate, there was little fussing with the Bomber.
Finding the 30% sag mark was deterred by the position of the shock in the Nomad, though. The shock body is arranged on the rear half of the shock and hides the O-ring sag indicator inside the frame's tunnel, like the DVO Topaz X. 200 psi was the first spring rate I set off with and rotated the rebound dial out 4 clicks from closed. The LSC sweep adjuster was left open during those runs but I was seeking a slightly lower ride height.
I found more stability by moving to 195 PSI and unwinding the rebound two more clicks. The smaller air can size of the Marzocchi provided plenty of progression so adding volume spacers wasn't necessary.
ClimbingNo climb switch, no problem. These days, most popular trail and enduro bikes, like the Nomad, have enough anti-squat or the force that resists compressing the suspension during pedalling, so firming up the shock with a LSC adjuster can hamper the climbing traction on trail. That's a different story when you're on a smooth road and steep hill though, so is that sweeping compression adjuster on the Bomber Air at all useful?
There's still a noticeable change in how much the shock compresses when pedalling, although for a bike of this size, it's not a make or break factor. Compared to the DVO, the sweep adjuster can be turned with less effort, however, the lack of indexing does mean you'll have to remember how far through the 180-degree rotation you prefer while descending.
DescendingSimilar to the Ohlins, the manual compression adjuster isn't reserved just for climbing. When I sought more support after lowering pressure in the shock, I found closing the sweep adjuster added a moderate platform - perfect for jump trails that require you to push into the bike.
Marzocchi sent over the Bomber Air with the smallest volume spacer installed - 0.1 cubic inches. Combined with the small air can, this equated to a progressive, but not overly "rampy" spring rate. The smooth breakaway force did lead to mellow mid-stroke which is where that sweep adjuster can come in handy.
Whether it's the simplicity of having fewer clickers to worry about, or that there's less to "get wrong", there's no denying that Marzocchi have made the most of the price point rear shock.
Pros
+ Performance to cost ratio had us pondering, "Why bother spending more?"
+ Ultra smooth breakaway
Cons
- Non-indexed compression adjuster means you'll have to remember exactly where you prefer to clock the dial
- Smaller air can may not be as tuneable as other larger volume shocks, depending on the frame's kinematics
Stay tuned for more Shock Week content, including a roundtable discussion of all the air shocks we tested.
I'm sure the Cane Creek DB is a great shock - but just didn't seem to work with my bike. Could just be different bikes & leverage ratio's however and the fact that the DB has so man damn possibilities (and I'm too dumb to get it). But meanwhile - set & forget the Bomber...plow on.
Did you have stock tune? What frame?
You’re not gonna get a better shock for less, that makes no sense, but you might get an adequate shock for less.
It really comes down to how discerning you are and how deep are your pockets.
As another example, some of the most advanced riders I know love Manitou products, but I don't see those products with glowing reviews. I think it is for the same reasons.
You guys have to stop with this stupid rhetoric that more dials means you can't set & forget, especially when you explicitly mention having to _remember a setting_ on a shock with almost the bare minimum of settings.
Perhaps a shock with more dials would let you tune the LSC for slowing climbing bob, while keeping HSC set for descending traction. Then you could actually set & forget.
I guess now that’s such a big deal to make it to the cons column… oh well. Meanwhile they highly regard the Yari’s Moco…
Would it be nice to have? Yes. Is it detrimental not having it and bad enough for it to be a con? Absolutely not…
190mm (standard eyelet) or 165mm (trunnion equivalent) - XC bikes ranging from 100-130mm travel. Stroke ranges from 40-45mm and a shorter stroke usually means less travel.
210mm (standard eyelet) or 185mm (trunnion equivalent) - Trail bikes ranging from 130-150mm travel. Stroke ranges from 50-55mm and a shorter stroke usually means less travel.
230mm (standard eyelet) or 205mm (trunnion equivalent) - Trail/enduro bikes ranging from 150-180mm travel. Stroke ranges from 57.5-65mm and a shorter stroke usually means less travel.
There are always exception to this based on frame manufacturers. One bike with the same eye-to-eye as another bike and a shorter stroke could have more travel. That just means that the bike has a higher leverage ratio and you will most likely have to run higher pressure (or a larger spring rate if it's a coil) than you would on the other bike. Hopefully this helps!
What would be far more enticing is having more brands offer in-depth training for bike shops to be able to actually set up your suspension properly, because just having the suspension set up the right way will make a HUGE difference for how a bike rides.
We have people locally that do it for motorcycles and depending on how far off the settings were, it can give you a “whole new bike” feel.
Decreasing negative air chamber volume would be the most efficient. Decreasing positive champer would also give some good results but you'll probably mess up progressivity.
Or the cup shaped spacer that sits below the piston that has a hole in it?
Both of these features provide a hydraulic top out effect.
Similar to what Ohlins has done with their new damper shaft for the coil shocks, the current ones have a very noticeable top out.
Decreasing the negative chamber volume would produce even more top out....like a Fox RP2 from the early 2000's.
But like I said; I own 4 currently, and have worked on maybe 50 and have never seen a Float X top out. Something is wrong; maybe the damper is aerated, the negative chamber is not equalizing, or something is loose.