Roval's Control carbon wheels are the follow-up act to the very light, and very expensive Control SL wheels. The Control wheels use the same rim design as their pricier sibling, but use 28 spokes (instead of 24) and are laced up to DT Swiss' 350 hubs. The result is a wheelset that weighs a still-reasonable 1450 grams, with a price tag of $1,350 USD.
Roval says it's a “high-performance wheel that excels everywhere from World Cup XC races to your favorite weekend trail.” I'll admit, I didn't do any World Cup cross-country racing during my time on these wheels, but they have seen plenty of hard miles over the past nine months.
Roval Control Carbon Details• Wheel size: 29"
• Intended use: cross-country / trail
• Rim material: carbon fiber
• Rim width: 29mm (internal)
• 28 straight-pull spokes per wheel
• Hubs: DT Swiss 350 w/ 36t ratchet
• Rider weight limit: 270 lb (122 kg)
• Weight: 1450 grams (1473 grams w/ tape and valve stems)
• MSRP: $1,350 USD
• More info:
www.rovalcomponents.com DESIGNThe Control's carbon rim has a 29mm internal width, and an asymmetric profile that makes it possible to use the same 300mm spoke length for the entire wheelset. The rim bead is 4mm thick, a dimension that's intend to help reduce the likelihood of a pinch flat by spreading out the impact over a wider area. That way, the rim will hopefully act less like a sharp blade when a tire inevitably gets smashed against it.
DT Swiss's straight-pull Competition spokes are used on both wheels, and they're secured in place by DT's Prolock alloy nipples. The hub is DT's classic 350 model with the 36-tooth ratchet rings installed to create a 10-degree engagement angle.
PERFORMANCEI'll skip right to it – these wheels are very, very good. They've held up impressively well to everything I've thrown at them, and after nine months of hard use they only had one brief session in the truing stand to get rid of a small wobble caused by one of my poor line choices. They were installed on my Transition Spur for the entirety of the test period, with conditions including ranging from muddy to snowy and everything in between.
They may not be as light as the Control SL wheels, but they also don't emit as many 'twangy' noises when they're loaded up hard in a corner. Those 24-spoke SL wheels seem to express their discontent when you really lay into them, while the 28-spoke Control wheels were noticeable quieter, even when I was bashing my way through chunky sections of trail.
I tried the wheels with multiple tires, including the Schwalbe Wicked Will, Specialized Ground Control, Maxxis Forekaster, and more recently a Butcher / Eliminator combo to help deal with some extra-sloppy conditions. In all instances the tires seated without too much hassle. Some of the thinner casing tires needed a little extra coaxing, but that's due to the less supportive sidewalls rather than the rim design. The 29mm internal width is right in the sweet spot for modern tires between 2.3" – 2.5”, which is what most riders are running these days. I didn't suffer any flats during the test period, and there were definitely multiple hard impacts between the tire, rim, and the ground.
As far as ride feel goes, the Controls are pleasantly neutral. They're stiff without being too stiff, free of the harsh, almost wooden feeling ride that can come with some carbon rims (although that's become a much less common occurrence as rim designs have evolved). The DT Swiss 350 hub's reputation as a solid workhorse is well deserved, and it didn't cause any issues. As for the 10-degrees engagement angle, that was plenty quick for my tastes, and I'm also a fan of how quiet the hub is while coasting. It is possible to purchase 54-tooth ratchet rings to speed things up, although in my experience those aren't as durable as the 36-tooth rings.
The Spur has what I'd call a 'compliant' ride – flexy is too strong of a word, but it's also not the stiffest thing out there. That feeling was complemented nicely by the Control wheels – they added a little extra zippiness to the Spur's manners. They're billed as an XC wheelset, which I think is an appropriate designation, but they can certainly be pushed into the downcountry / light trail category as well.
DURABILITYAs I mentioned, I only need to do a quick true of the rear wheel, and other than that it's been very smooth sailing - sorry to disappoint all the fans of gratuitous carbon carnage out there. All the bearings are still free of any side-to-side play, although the driveside bearing in the rear hub has started to feel a little gritty. It's not enough to warrant replacing it yet, but some fresh grease is probably in order in the near future. Considering the number of muddy miles these wheels have seen the wear and tear is very reasonable.
HOW DO THEY COMPARE?The Control Carbon wheels are an attractive proposition on paper, and out on the trail for that matter. There are lighter options, but those come with a significant price penalty.
The Reserve 28's are a very close competitor, but they cost $350 more and weigh 100 grams more than the Rovals when comparing the two DT Swiss 350 versions. Reserve does get a point in their favor for not having a rider weight limit (the Roval wheels have a 275 lb weight limit), and a better warranty program. The Control wheels do have a lifetime warranty against manufacturer defects, but damage caused by riding is only covered for two years. With Reserve, if a rider breaks a rim while riding they'll replace it for free for life.
Pros
+ Excellent price to weight ratio (for carbon wheels)
+ Great ride quality
+ Well built, and all the spokes are the same size
Cons
- There are more generous warranties out there
Pinkbike's Take | The Roval Carbon wheels are highly recommended for riders looking for a light, responsive set of wheels for cross-country or general trail duty. You can save a few grams by choosing a more expensive wheelset, but unless you're gunning for glory on the World Cup circuit it's hard to see any reason to pay more.— Mike Kazimer |
@HaggeredShins what? $1.5k is actually lower than the norm for carbon wheelsets (with DT350's especially) historically speaking, even talking pre-COVID prices.
This is coming from someone with decent carbon hoops on almost all their bikes. I'm not going act like wheels at this price are a reasonable investment for the majority of riders, however.
heres a link
If we put these prices in front of our buddies who aren't deeply in the sport (and importantly don't know what you need to get into it) we're likely get some interesting looks, as I know I have.
dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/break-the-bank
Which is totally relevant because of all the cool mountain bikes he had hanging in his room and the bike shop window they would walk by featuring the same bikes from his room...
We Are One - www.weareonecomposites.com/page/warranty
Nobl - noblwheels.com/warranty/?v=3e8d115eb4b3
That said, cannot find any spec whatsoever about the "Newman hub" their wheelsets come with.
But this is all moot, because now I want to know why @Noeserd is posting weights/prices for aluminum wheels on an article about a carbon wheelset? Were you duped like I was by Newman's naming conventions? I swear it took me like 3 visits to the site to sort out that the 'Advanced' were carbon, the 'Evolution' were aluminum. Derp. Therefore the most comparable wheelset from Newman in terms of the Roval set reviewed in this article would be the Advanced SL XA30 which are 28 spoke, 30mm width, Newman hubs, weigh 1325g for a 29r wheelset and run $1655US. That makes them 125g lighter and ~$300 more expensive than this Roval set.
Cheers
I get the carbon hate... I've blown up my fair share of carbon wheels. But over the lifetime of the wheelset... I find that carbon hoops generally provide a decent value proposition provided the cost to move from AL to Carbon is under 500. Ideally, I'd shoot for a 300 price delta to push me over the edge.
Hope yours hold up!
If I have carbon wheels, the whole world needs to know, damn it.
The only con for me: 6-bolt rotor. But Galfer has some sick 6B rotors.
www.pinkbike.com/photo/21939421
Frame matches the rims and tyres and even the Kashima looks perfect for those sidewalls. Matchy matchy but still very understated and tasteful. Something like an SLX or XTR crank would finish it off.
Please explain how suing small business owners over the name of their cafe correlates to their products being good?
More recently, as in last year, Specialized cancelled existing customers orders from Mikes Bikes, when Mikes Bikes sold their company to another buyer, instead to Specialized.
www.bicycleretailer.com/industry-news/2021/01/14/specialized-and-ex-employee-settle-case#.YgLBHHrMKUk
In the complaint Parenti had said she "endured a hostile work environment where women were treated as less competent than men and, worse still, as sexual playthings for upper management." She was among the Specialized employees laid off in April as the company cut costs in the early days of the pandemic lock-downs.
Look I have no stake in the company nor do I care...these are just business decisions...is what it is, they have no obligation to be nice, make the world a better place, etc...they have one obligation, make money.
Specialized Bicycle Components and Lauren Parenti have agreed to settle the lawsuit that Parenti filed last month. The former graphic designer for the brand had charged that she was terminated in violation of federal and state civil rights and employment laws.
Look...either way we're both projecting on shit neither of know the answer to. Wheels are great, let's leave it at that.
I would have never expected a set of 24/28h wheels to hold up that well over chunky bike park laps but they certainly have. My only complaint is they seem to burp a little easier than the alloy Spank hoops I have on my actual park bike.
I bet you could get away with only carrying a 300mm spoke when traveling, etc.
But yeah, the ride is excellent, the price is really fair for what you’re getting, and the lack of weight is a real plus for the type of riding I like. (Technical trail, with challenging climbs and tight precise rocky descents)
I’m running these on an Epic Evo and they feel like they were designed as a system to perfectly complement that frame.
Let’s take the Specialized Enduro as a good example - Lots of people riding size large enduros, that would probably be better suited to riding a medium, but the larger reach inspires confidence at speed and allows an average rider to plow through rough stuff easier. A lot of the feedback on reviews and from consumers is that it’s an excellent bike, but a bit of a pig in tight stuff, which is true if you’re riding the upper size limit. If you size down slightly it’s actually relatively nimble (For a 170mm travel enduro frame). Charlie Murray is a good example here, who chooses to ride the medium in the EWS.
But there is no point saving them from themselves. Ride whatever brah. But rims do get an extra beating
wovenprecision.com/mountain-wheels
"Spoke length: Front Driveside 301mm, Non-Driveside 300mm , Rear Driveside 298mm, Non-Driveside 301mm"
So which is correct?
But check this out to calm yourself down - why would you spend £1000 on a pair or Ti cranks (pictured) if the cranks at 10th of the price will do the same exact job with only small weight penalty! And they are not even pretty
However, I'm second-guessing myself now, and am thinking of returning them and buying another set of DT Swiss alloys (XM 1700).
I've been running a set of XM 1501s on my previous "downcountry" bike (130mm forked Giant Anthem 27.5) for the past 3 years and they are still running as straight and true as they day I bought them. They cost $600 for the set. Not a single ding, dent, or bend anywhere to be seen, and I have ridden that bike way outside of its comfort zone.
The XM 1700s are 400 grams heavier than these Rovals but will no doubt be much stronger. Specialized couldn't even give me an ASTM rating for them when I emailed them. All the promo vids for these wheels are heavy on lycra, gravel roads, skinny legs and tiny helmets, and I'm worried that my ride quality will suffer if I don't have confidence in my gear.
If they had a genuinely good warranty like WAO and SC/Reserve, but I'm hearing reports that the lifetime warranty on these Rovals is pure BS, and a "no fault crash replacement" will set you back the better part of €600.
Decisions decisions.
www.instagram.com/p/BekRLrSBDnC/?utm_medium=copy_link
On wheels, totally don't get the "downcountry" thing. At what point is riding no longer downcountry? From an engineering perspective, what does that look like? How big of a gap/drop/rock garden/feature is no longer downcountry?
Would big jumps but long smooth transitions be too much for these (thinking Trestle laps)? What about purpose built "enduro" trails (Glorietta NM)? High exposure with huck to flats (Gold Bar)?
I get not everyone has riding that burly close by, but is this a product where you'd have to tell your riding buddies "Naah bro, skipping this line. Got my downcountry wheels on."?
When it comes to wheel strength though, I’d like a more definitive answer.
So less speed -> less kinetic energy on smoother trails and less hucking.
Tell that to my set that I bought used in 2015 and ridden since at a lean and strong 220lbs.
Editor: Please add "straight pull spokes" to the minus column.
Undoubtedly an oversight on Mike's part.
It's almost like bike parts are all various compromises. Ride what you like and what you can make reliable and affordable for your situation.
What I want to know is has Kazimer really destroyed 54t ratchets or just regurgitating what others have said about them being less durable?
(those EX471's were as bulletproof a rim as I've ever owned. Went wider with the e*13 LG1r's and they dent more easily)
I dig your "thief of joy" perspective. Always better to have choices
Philosophical Waki, well said.
Ex471 is stupid strong and I think it has to do with width.
Nuff said
I am not lucky. Carbon works and very well. I have had too many carbon parts not fail to be lucky. I use ultra lightweight components, often from the so called "inferior" no name brands. Stuff keeps on ticking.
When it comes to cranks oh well... they just can't work. There is so much force acting on pedal insert that it will fail. It just will. Race Face and Sram get wrecked time and time again and you can put fattest crank boots out there, it doesn't matter. The insert will get loose.
Frames - When done well they work. They just work. On top of it all many failures can be repaired, which cannot be said about alloy.
No one said carbon is stronger than metal and as Waki says it all depends on how it is made. Pretty sure if it is good enough for astronauts and airplanes it is good enough for your bikes when done correctly.
I have had lots of carbon cranks and no issues with them. Not saying inserts don't fail, but I have had SRAM and Race Face and no issues. I run light weight e13 on my enduro bike. No issues.
2.3-2.5" is a very large sweet spot