Descending The Shadowcat is a well-balanced bike, with predictable handling. The suspension has the rear wheel tracking beautifully through rough terrain. It's not the plushest feeling suspension, but it provides a solid, dependable feeling through the pedals that is firm enough to let you know it's working hard, but it never feels overwhelmed. The shock tune is sufficient for me at 60kg, but I am running the dials at the extreme (open) end of the adjustment range, so am unaware of any additional performance that could be had from an even lighter tune.
The small is fitted with a Fox Transfer Factory post with 150mm drop, which to me is the absolute minimum acceptable drop on a trail bike. I found that my thighs would lightly tap against the top of the saddle on most descents, even those with a fairly moderate gradient. That said, at my saddle height of 628mm, it is possible to run the 175mm Fox Transfer thanks to the seat tubes plentiful insertion depth (Pivot has a fit guide for Fox Transfer and Reverb AXS posts
here).
I did simulate that lower dropped saddle position, but it actually wasn't preferable, given that the saddle then contacted the inside of my knee in a problematic fashion. The caveat here is, of course, that I do run an inordinately wide saddle (detailed explanation of why,
here). So, others who run a much narrower saddle are more likely to benefit from that additional drop. I'm also running it slammed forwards on the rails to get that more comfortable effective seat tube angle. With the saddle positioned in the middle of the rails, or toward the back, that wide portion of the saddle is less interfering.
The fairly steep 65.8° head tube angle holds the Shadowcat back on steep, fall line trails. It helps give the bike quick handling on trails with less gradient, and keeping weight pushed through the front wheel comes naturally, giving good confidence in flatter turns. But, it does have its rider feeling a little pitched and vulnerable when the hill falls away. This positions it as a bike that is most at home on more easy-going terrain that isn't overly challenging, or too littered with drops and steps in close succession of one another.
I found the Shadowcat to be at its best when I slowed things down a little, instead of just trying to ride fast everywhere. Its quick, responsive handling and poppy suspension encouraged me to seek out little hops and alternative lines off the main rut, which was a great deal more pleasurable than just trying to plow down. It has also been a fun, dependable, and safe-feeling bike for sessioning the larger jumps I've taken to riding recently as part of the old "continuing professional development."
The bike's progressive leverage curve, combined with the 0.6in³ volume spacer inside the shock (same on all sizes), made it difficult to push the bike toward the end of its travel. I occasionally felt as though I'd bottomed-out, but a glance at the shock's O-ring position indicated that was not the case. I was effectively hitting a wall of progression. Removing that spacer allowed me to access the last 10mm suspension travel with less force. I probably went a little too far with it; the 0.2³ spacer would've been the better option. Anyway, the point is that the Fox Float DPS is nicely tunable in that aspect. However, Pivot do not provide the volume spacers with the sale of the bike; those must be purchased aftermarket for around $25 USD.
I’ve said it before but there’s more ways to have fun on a MTB than going as fast as possible and I honestly think it’s a shame that most brands have ditched 27.5” wheels and slacked everything off.
I hope Pivot keep this model around for a long time as it fills my jibbing niche perfectly but is also a great option for smaller riders and those who don’t live in the mountains or want to ride the gnarliest gnar (though you’d be surprised what it’s capable of!)
For the sake of comparison he rode the Sb 120 LR SB-135 Sb140 Pivot Switchblade Trail 429 Transition Smuggler Ibis Ripley and Ripmo Santa Cruz Bronson.
Big thanks to Pivot, Yeti and all the other brands that support High School racing. Couldn’t afford a bike like this without your support.
I feel so much more balanced and over the front. Bike has never cornered better. I had a long steertube, so I was luckily able to preserve my handlebar height.
Obviously this isn’t for everyone, but after 10 rides on the mullet, and 1 ride dual 27.5 I don’t think I’ll be going back.
There is a great comparison video that boostmaster did on A-Line where the 26" was faster all the way down right until the very end wood section where the 29er rollover caught up.
I will say that the "off-the-back" feeling from my experience has been a result of optimizing the suspension setup for the downhills (i.e. 30%+ rear sag)--and while that's great if that's where you want the bike to work well, realize it is a compromise.
But currently looking for a new frame.
Any suggestions for a 150-160mm carbon 27.5 frame?
The Shadowcat I've been watching for awhile as it has the exact Geometry I want, and looks fantastic. Hopefully they'll release some new appealing colors (Pivot please look to Marin for color inspiration) ....
The thing is a bought an Aether 7 instead as they had great deals on them and they are aluminum and have external routing. Whats not to like.... almost the same Geo as a Shadowcat but for way cheaper and it's easy to work on.
Planned on throwing 26” wheels on it for a year until he grew a bit but he seems to be doing okay on the 27.5”. We’ll see once the snow melts and he can really get out and ride it.
You don't need smaller wheels to do this. This is the way everyone should be riding if they're not racing. Shit, maybe even if they _are_ racing, since trying those alt lines might end up being faster by providing a better exit line, vs. a "carefree riding style", which I'm assuming is plow-down-the-fall-line-and-lock-the-brakes-to-not blow-every-corner".
This is a great argument against the bullshit claim that headset routing make for better frames.
Too bad front-center to rear-center balance will "feel" the most different possible (without doing size specific chainstays in the wrong direction). Does having a less torsionally stiff front triangle matter all that much when the shorter riders are by default that much relatively closer to the front wheel? Might actually want that stiffness back.
"Longer chainstays would diminish this key characteristic [agility] of the Shadowcat."
Nah, you're reaching there Pivot. It's all relative: the XL already has a 90mm longer wheel base than the XS, adding 5-10mm to the chainstays to bring the front-to-rear balance closer to the smaller sizes would surely be less detrimental to agility than a more centered position on the bike.
I once added about 3 inches to my wheelbase, _and_ bigger wheels, with a new bike, and also gained a _much_ more centered and balanced riding position. The increase in agility was immense, despite all the things people claim ruin agility: big wheel, long wheelbase, long chainstays. The importance of good positioning should not be underestimated re: "feel" and "agility".
The rustler is great but got absolutely no love from the media.
There’s a famous friends episode where Ross is yelling “Pivot” while
Trying to move a new couch the apartment stairs.
Seriously though, this is a great bike for its intended use: trail riding. It always seems
Like pinkbike will give an enduro bike a pass on climbing, but then seem to be pretty harsh on trail bikes descending. Does anyone at Pinkbike even like
To ride non-29” bikes? Serious question…
Maybe there's more to geometry than just 1 number. Maybe it's a good thing that different companies offer different geometries to provide us, their customers who all ride differently and have different bodies requiring different bike fits, meaningful choice among the bikes we're considering.
Considering the steepish HTA, a 150mm fork would probably be a better option.
When it all adds up the fork length that would give you the same ground to crown, when sagged, which is what you need to 'maintain' riding geo, would be around 105mm.
+19mm for the g2a
+21mm for a2c
Which would give you a -40mm starting point, but then you're losing 12mm on the sag, so a 110 fork would be about right/slightly over, but a 120 might be the more common choice given whats out there.
The difference in radius between a 29er/622 bsd and 27.5/584 bsd is only 19mm ( 622 - 584 x .5 = 19mm ) and the fork is at an angle to the ground so 20mm A-C is really only about 15mm of height at the headtube.
Above the axle the angle doesn't matter, the same A2C the same HA will cause the same vertical offset, so in order to make the vertical offset the same, you need the same A2C, in the case of a 160 RS fork (Im using RS forks as I have the A2C to hand and I expect Fox etc. to have close enough differences) thats an A2C of 552, 19mm less than the A2C for a 160mm 29er (I screwed up on the A2Cs/g2a above the wrong way round but it wont make any difference).
Below the Axle the vertical offset is at 19mm, but as the only thing we can use here is the fork travel to make the adjustments, as you said we need more than fork travel mm adjustment than we do vertical offset mms. The ratio isnt 3/4 as you suggest though, its more like 9/10; in order to yield the necessary 19mm of vertical adjustment we need another 21mm of fork travel change.
So we had 19mm on the A2C correction and 21mm on the g2a correction, which gives us a 40mm travel adjustment for a 29er, so a 120 fork, but.... as I mentioned earlier, your sag is now all out of whack, and since sagged is going to count for how the bike actually rides, even a 120 fork is potentially going to ride too high - you'll have a consistently slacker HA and SA, and a higher BB. That may indeed be fine, but it just something to note.
If anyone wants to check yourself, then www.bike-stats.de/en/geometrie_rechner is a great site to do that. You will just have to pull up the Shadowcat, using 552 (rockshox 27/160mm) as the A2C for the 27, select both a wheel and fork swap, switch it to a 29er front wheel and use 531 (Rockshox 29/120mm) as the A2C on the 29 fork and you will see you get perfectly matched static numbers.
If you update the fork lengths with Sagged numbers instead you see that the frame gets all out of whack again, and you need a 484 29er A2C sagged to get close to our 160 27.5 fork sagged again, that would be 40% of a 120 forks travel, but also the A2C of a theoretical 105mm fork at 30% sag. Hence why I suggested 105 was a closer equivalent in real terms.
You fair put the bike though its paces though on some amazing trails, the golfie is tight and rooty on so many trails and the climb isnt short!!! (we always ride the EEB's there if we are down south to get the most laps in).
Also the 76 STA is a total meh, thought in 2024 we have the geo sorted, but it seems not really. Or maybe this is targeted for rich guys in 50's who ride this on flat?