Perhaps you've ready my review of the
Shimano BR420, centered around affordability and function in an otherwise unremarkable package. Get ready for something completely different.
Trickstuff occupies a special tier at the top end of the brake market, with price and rarity that border on mythical. While their Maxima downhill brakes get most of the attention, the more XC-focused Piccola model stands to be an equally impressive creation, boasting the lightest weight of any disc brake on the market.
Trickstuff Piccola C22 Details• 2 piston caliper
• Carbon lever
• Sram and Shimano shifter mounts
• Made in Germany
• Weight: 157g (front), 167g (rear)
• MSRP: €1,100
•
trickstuff.de•
Current lowest price Weight is one thing, but it's all for naught if they can't keep your speed in check. I've been hammering a set for a few months now, treating them as if they didn't cost as much as my car, and the results have been mostly impressive.
Technical DetailsClocking in at the staggering price of €1,100 for the set, the Piccolas are clearly not a value proposition, but that's really not the point. This world is full of expensive objects - more on that later.
As you'd hope of a top-tier component, every detail has been well considered on the Piccolas, though I wouldn't necessarily describe them as user-friendly. The tiny overall package requires defter fingers than other mechanical tasks, as I found the assembly to be a bit fiddly compared to more standard brake layouts. That said, once you get a hang of the bolt-and-band clamp, you realize just how impressive the minimalism Trickstuff achieved here really is. It feels like every gram has been earned, with every bit of material serving a purpose. The integrated shifter mounts are the best I've encountered, with ample adjustment and a very clean look.
The carbon lever is well shaped for single-finger braking, and the action is quite light and smooth thanks to the four bearings the mechanism rides on. The shape seems to be best suited to people who run their bite point with the lever parallel to the grip, about 20mm out. Tucked into the the face of the lever is the reach adjustment bolt, which I only readjusted a couple of times to change the feel of the levers after bleeding.
Speaking of bleeding, the procedure is fairly simple and clean, thanks to a two-syringe method very similar to the SRAM bleed procedure. The Trickstuffs use Bionol, a very thin and temperature stable vegetable-derived oil. It's nontoxic and biodegradable, and has a much higher boiling point than DOT or mineral oil. The Trickstuff bleed kit comes with everything you need to take care of the brakes, as you'd hope for such a precious system. There is one tricky element to the Piccola bleed that isn't communicated very well in the Trickstuff bleed procedure, revolving around the sniffer valve on the master cylinder.
The sniffer is that little hole in the smooth flat face.
After going about the major steps in the bleed, you have to do a small sub-bleed of the equalization chamber around the sniffer valve - this requires you to depress the lever a certain amount and pull a vacuum while covering the valve, then opening the valve to take in air. Sounds confusing, but the process is well displayed in
this video, where a Trickstuff mechanic goes through the entire bleed step by step. The Piccolas felt particularly bad if bled poorly - while this holds true for just about any brake out there, I think the extra-small architecture enhanced any inconsistencies.
I carried out this test running the stock Trickstuff Power pads, which proved to be excellent in the wet and the dry. They have a slightly more tacky bite than a typical metallic pad in the dry, and perform well in the wet once the system has heated up a bit - this usually takes a couple hard braking points then they're off to the races. Clamped between those pads were the 180mm Trickstuff Däche UL rotors, which were pleasantly unremarkable, save for one smart detail. The outer edge of the rotors is chamfered, giving it a leading edge when you're installing the wheel in the bike. It's a small detail that makes life a little easier, which is always welcomed.
It's worth noting that the Piccolas fit the ubiquitous SRAM 2-piston brake pad, so finding replacements shouldn't be too hard, even if you're out in the boonies. Fixing more integral parts of the brake is rarely a field-serviceable procedure, but the Piccolas have been well designed to make service fairly easy and repeatable. Even shortening the lines is a relatively painless event, as they don't use the standard barb and olive connection, just a simple compression nut fitting.
PerformanceThey may weigh about as much as a hummingbird (or 10, apparently those guys weigh about 15 grams), but Trickstuff claims the Piccolas pack as much power as some of the more common big dog downhill brakes out there. Bold claims, but in this case you kind of get what you pay for. The power on tap with these little brakes is very impressive, but the way you get to max power is a little unique relative to other options on the market.
The lever pull of the Piccolas is far more linear than other brakes I've used, which took some time to adapt to. Where other powerful stoppers like the Hayes Dominion, TRP DH-R Evo, and even the SRAM Code have a fairly sharp bite point that provides something close to full power when set up well, the Piccolas don't really start locking up until you've pulled past the initial bite point. This felt a bit odd at first, but in a way it benefits the use cases that they're meant to cater towards, where scrubbing off speed is more typical, as opposed to slamming on the brakes for quick braking points.
The very light lever action makes actuating the brakes easy and controllable, with no wander in the bite point once the system heated up - there's a little pump from a cold start, but they stay consistent once at operating temperature. As I mentioned earlier, that feel is highly reliant on a good bleed, more than other brakes out there. I feel like a $1,100 brakeset should come with a little brake elf who sets them up for you, but since that accessory is missing you'll just have to be diligent and make sure it's done right.
I had the Piccolas mounted to my
Staff Ride Tallboy, which is currently more of a trail bike than an XC whip. The brakes felt appropriate for the little Santa Cruz, even when ridden well outside the bike's purview. Taking it down steep sustained tracks (think thousands of feet in less than a couple miles), the feel at the lever remained the same top to bottom, without any fading or pumping-up. I've ridden this trail on plenty of different brake systems at this point, and even with 180mm rotors front and rear the Trickstuffs outmatched any other XC-ish brake I've taken down the track.
It's hard to quantify the subjective feel of braking power, especially given the variables in pad compound, rotor size, and overall setup/wear, but I'd place these high on my list, even as a 2-piston brake competing with the wide field of 4-piston options out there. They even have an auditory tell when the brakes are working well, in the form of a strong warbling when things are locked up. Some might mind the noise, but I found myself enjoying it.
The Economics of JewelryIt's easy to be critical of the price of these brakes, but for the sake of argument let's look at it a bit more abstractly. There is a budget-perfect alternate reality where we all consume the perfect priceline things that satisfy our needs: single-ply toilet paper, beige box generic cereal, the normcore beauty of the Monobloc chair (designed by a Canadian!), simple and functional objects devoid of panache. But that's not the way of the world, as we all like shiny new things. Consumerism is gross, but within it there is room for special objects that hold value beyond their function. I'd place the Piccolas in this camp; they do a job, but they're also just very nice to look at, a small and precious totem to industrial design and efficiency.
Along the same lines is the Balmuda toaster, a $300 monument to the ever-elusive goal that is the perfect slice of charred bread. I've lusted after one of these for years, but simply can't bring myself to expand my toaster budget 30x its current scope. Until I figure out how to convince Balmuda to send me one for a review period, I'll continue to burn my bread like a peasant. For the right person though, this is a logical and sensible purchase that may very well improve their daily life - that's the beauty of all the choices we have. I'll continue to use the Shimano BR-MT420 of toasters, and some oil sheik will enjoy his Trickstuff Piccola humidified bread oven.
How Do They Compare?The Piccolas and the
Dominion T2s are the best 2-piston brakes I've ever used, but the feel is quite different between the two. The Hayes are snappier, with a sharper bite point and quicker full-power pull. The Trickstuffs have more power on tap, but it's a bit harder to get there in typical trail situations.
Bleeding is easier and more consistent on the Hayes, meaning they're more likely to have a robust setup regardless of use or how rushed you were in the garage. Replacement pads are definitely easier to find for the Trickstuffs, which is ironic considering how hard it is to get a pair of the brakes themselves.
The Dominions weigh about 250 grams per brake, more in line with the less-powerful SRAM Level Ultimate - the Piccolas are only matched in weight by Shimano's XTR 9100 brakes, which don't match when it comes to power.
If I had to choose one set right now, it would be the Dominions, based mostly on the lever feel. I'm more used to brakes that have a progressive pull, and although the Piccolas are possible class-leaders in terms of power and fade resistance, they were a little less intuitive for me.
Pinkbike's Take | The Trickstuff Piccola C22s are beautiful objects, with excellent performance to match. Their smart design, impressively low weight, and remarkable stopping power are all worth noting, but so is the slightly unusual lever feel. If a more linear pull is compelling to you, or if you just want a different feel compared to more common options, then these might be the ticket. They truly are powerful enough to run on a more serious gravity-oriented bike, and might fit the build perfectly if the theme is a diamond-encrusted lightweight enduro rig. — Dario DiGiulio |
I would also like your final take. Thank you.
After accounting for inflation, it was like a $300 toaster.
For reference, I had a Black and Decker toaster for 10 years that died and when I searched online for a replacement toaster, all these air fryers kept showing up. What the heck is an air fryer? Found one for like $50 at the time and bought it. It is rad. Lol.
1) 3d violet color. Does make the part in question look cool.
2) Fragile/tend to break/fail. Some parts (the AC cranks 5dev copied the styling of come to mind) were near a 100% fail rate. Like every……single……pair I saw come through the shop I worked at broke. Hydra hubs absolutely carry on that tradition.
Heck, they use sunflower oil as the brake fluid! Makes cooking easy when you are bike camping.
FFS please don't promote value as equivalent to price. The longer influencers and trusted voices keep saying so, the more people buy cheaper stuff while thinking they're smarter by doing so.
If you pay 1100$ for brakes that you can ran for 10+ years AND they perform much better than other options, then it's probably a great value despite their price. Same applies to expensive wheel or frame with a lifetime warranty and customer care who don't run away from you. Cheaper stuff is not necessarily more valuable, it's just cheaper.
Price is what you pay, value is what you get.
Kitchen knives and cast iron skillets are one-time purchases. No bike part is.
Like Velosexualist said, value does not equal cost efficiency or low price. Value is perception and highly individual. There are plenty sold Piccolas out there, so they do provide more value than their purchase cost for a certain group of people.
You were really bad at math in school right?
High quality, long lasting, serviceable, and you pay for them. Am I buying some? Probably not. Do I see the value of them? Yes. And with more expendable income, I would have some.
Is the Balmuda supposed to be better than the $350 Mitsubishi?
He rides mtb as well….
Either way, I have a Dualit toaster now...and Code Rs on my bike
I've got one. Though mine was made in the 1960s. It's very good. But in a clearly Trickstuff kind of way. I've no idea if it's as good as the fancy toasters already mentioned.
Also, accounting for inflation, that is a $300 toaster.
Will I ever buy a set of Trickstuff brakes? No.
Am I glad they exist? Yes.
And I hope some of the features they’re using trickle down to the stuff a pleb line me can actually afford/justify.
More power than I could ever need, very light lever action with nearly perfect, linear modulation feeling, easy to maintain and generally work on (so long as you don't honor their request to take them off the bike to do a bleed, which you absolutely do not have to do), and no fade.
Personally, I've found these brakes to be a huge upgrade to actual riding performance. Having that much control over your wheels instills confidence similar to that brand new tire feeling. Personally, I think they are worth every penny as they will be the brakes I take from bike to bike for the foreseeable future.
www.theverge.com/22801890/sunbeam-radiant-control-toaster-t20-t35-vista
People still restore these sunbeams because they're better at automatically perfect toast than anything made in the last 70 years. Restored and resold they cost more than the Balmuda unless you DIY (have to modernize the cord for safety) but they also look better.
I have two-piston Cura 2s, five years in and still perfect.
Curious of the "these brakes cost more than my car" was literal, or hyperbole (which is totally acceptable in this context). As it takes a pretty cheap car to be less than these brakes.
Anecdotal: My car is worth so little these days, that I think its actually appreciating again (or would be if the car market/economy was still hot), at least according to bringatrailer .
1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 4.0L I6, in good condition for its age. But I do have to sort out an apparent transmission leak I discovered after backing out of the garage on Sunday and noticing a ~1/2 teaspoons worth of drippage under there (always check your parking spot visually when you back out!).
Not being able to ride causes bitterness, finally receiving the life time keeper brake set is a moment of happiness and celebration (which I am sure continues on everyone of his Trickstuff augmented rides).
And if the reality of using the brakes matches his expectation of the brakes then there wasn't any disappointment.
I just got a set of Hayes Dominion T4's as forums claimed 'Trickstuff-level' power. Disappointing so far. More arm pump and fatigue, and even with bigger rotors. Firmer bite point, less modulation. Direttissima has a firmer feel than Piccola, but not as on-off as Dominions. TBF, I haven't experimented with different pads yet. That's todays ride.
The Piccolas have a 'softer' modulation at the lever than the Direttissima's, but the power and consistency out of a 160gr brake is amazing. As an xc or trail brake they're perfect. Trail or enduro the Direttissima would definitely be the go-to. More power and I do like the firmer lever feel. I'm running 180mm rotors with both. Tried 200's and downsized - they slowed me down too much! Big 29er wheels on enduro or dh, yeah I could see the appeal of Maxima, but I haven't felt the need for that much stopping power yet. Honestly, I don't think about my brakes any more when riding, other than "f**k my brakes are sick!". Which is worth every penny for me over 4yrs of ownership.
Sorry for the long and salesy sounding post. Its the same spiel someone gets trailside when they ask about my brakes. Maybe now we can just say 'hi' and keep on riding.
People with too much disposable income spending money on bling that doesn't matter, while the rest of the people in the area are desperately trying to live up to that standard.
Interesting that these seemed to have more modulation than sram code. I've found those to be incredibly progressive, which is what I like. Maybe I should give these a shot!
Modulation is what the rider does. What you mean is that the brake feels intuitive, which comes down to some parameters like: leverage curve, consistency of pad friction, consistency of bite point position etc.
Probably overly pedantic, but reading sentences like: "this brakes offers more modulation" makes me shudder a little every time.
The brakes typically ship with organic pads. It would be nice if the reviewer mentioned what pads they used specifically (I don'r recall them doing that). Their organic pads wear fast, but feel great and dissipate heat very well. However I found the metallic sram pads to have more power which feels nicer to me on steep terrain. Comparing these to brakes that weigh almost twice as much is a bit odd as buyers of these are doing so to save weight, otherwise you'd probably go for Trickstuff's 4-piston brakes and be able to get away with smaller rotors and no adapters for example.
Just basically bleed/purge the caliper itself if you have that wonderful bite point issue.
I got some Hope RX4+ calipers with Shimano mtb levers (Saint and MT200). You need to bleed those very good,work each piston like Hope describes to get a perfect feel. I can brake while the bike is upside down or whatever angle and elevation changes,those brakes are good to go every single time. All with Shimano mineral oil. To me it is very easy,just try it before any change,it is free,just only a little bit of time. Bleed the caliper like Hope manual suggest.
Air can get trap behind the pistons when you fill the caliper/lines for the first time (Shimano assembly line do not make good bleed is my main conspiracy theory) and a normal lever bleed can not move those air pockets.
Brakes are not rocket science. But many Shimano brakes come with air inside from stock,is that simple.
I didn’t know about the Hope manual trick. I’ll check it out. Thanks.
Hope manual for the RX4+ caliper is very simple.
The issue with the wondering point only comes on quick resets. I.e, you are hard on the brakes, you let off, and you reapply, and the brakes work fine, the finger pressure is the same, but your finger is at a different point. If you let of slower, or you wait to reapply, it does not happen. This is 100% due to fluid viscocity, and the hpx oil is lower viscosity and fixes the issue.
The wandering bite point is one thing, but when it pulls to the bar suddenly is when it's inexcusable.
I've switched to Hayes Dominions and left those problems in the the past.
Just add pushing the pistons in and out while caliper bleeding/flushing oil in the caliper direction.It is a very simple step,takes seconds. I bet you would see bubbles out.
What you describes is air in the system 100% if you are not ridding your bike at minus extreme temperatures,when fluid viscosity would have an effect.
The thing about the fluid is a nonsense to me. Sticky levers/slow return is a lever piston thing,but in Shimano brakes lever are closed units,you can not service them.
Many people wanders a lot about this,even most of professional mechanics,but it is dead simple.
Holy shit. SRAM was shit on forever for this, and now all of a sudden when you have to pay extra for it with a certain brand name attached, it's good?
Also, how exactly do they warble when locked up? Locked up means the rotor isn't moving relative to the pads, not really going to make any noise in that state.
www.mtbr.com/threads/has-anyone-here-bled-trickstuff-piccola-brakes.1143851/#post-14845625
(look for the 7th post in this thread, not the first...)
My take is that they feel most similar to Shimano brakes but with better modulation, which probably explains the linear feel Dario mentions.
I still run shimano’s on my other bikes and don’t have any issues adjusting when jumping from bike to bike.
I do love these brakes, they are for me the best brake out there in terms of power and weight.
As Dario mentions, the current XTRs aren’t as powerful, but if you can still find a pair of shimano xtr M980 brakes and run them with the current XTR lever, you’ll have something as powerful and only 80g heavier. For the record my new/old xtr setup came in Front: 191g, Rear: 202g
I didn’t purchase them because they are so light but because of their braking performance.
Overall, I agree with most of the points from Dario.
The brake bleed was somewhat tricky, but with the video linked in the article it should be achievable to get a good brake lever feel.
One thing I noticed compared with my Shimano XTR is that the Trickstuff brake pads wear out very fast. I only managed 600km with the Trickstuff brakes compared with 3000km with the Shimano K05Ti brake pads.
I’m very happy with my purchase even considering the high price.
I'm still running a set of 12-year-old R1s which are very impressive and have great initial bite and power; the Curas are supposed to be similar. Also the only 2 piston brake regularly used for gravity as far as I know, and if their hype is to be believed!
I should look again, that was covid times, perhaps it has gotten better.....
r2-bike.com/MTB_6::en/trickstuff
Considering the Maximas are unobtainium with a 1.5yr wait list, someone is buying them. Their other brakes can be found easier, but are still not trivial to find and are seemingly sold out most places.
Personally, I am fed up with most brakes on the market right now and would buy them if they were available solely for the sake of having something that hopefully works and I don't have to mess with. That said, I'm not willing to hunt down a pair because I've heard too many stories of customer service problems for US customers. When given the option, I went with Radic Kahas instead and they are proving to be REALLY good and he is super responsive to any questions/problems. These smaller, boutique brands will always have less market presence than others, but that doesn't mean they aren't pumping out products successfully.
A lot of these small, high quality machine shops dabble in bike parts (think Cascade Components) but keep the lights on by providing machining/engineering solutions to other industries.
It’s a passion project, cause they’re cyclists themselves, and can build a better mouse trap.
I know of 4 sets in my circle, and 1 set is literally owned by my dental surgeon!
Real question: how will their power compare to XT 4 piston?
Kinda like most every other brake.
Really? It's basically the same idea as the bolt-and-band clamps that SRAM has been using forever, just "optimized" for weight at enormous cost.