Yoshimura dipped their toes into the mountain bike market a couple years ago with their unique two-in-one ENDH stem and the Chilao pedals. They’re back with a new CNC’d component, but instead of expanding the line they’ve refined their flat pedals with the Chilao SS.
On the outside, the pedal is nearly identical to the original Chilaos. Inside though, there’s much more at play - or better yet, no play. “SS” stands for “static spring,” which is the critical part of the new patent-pending internal bearing preload system. The spring eliminates any lateral play between the pedal body and the spindle, no matter how worn out the spinning parts become.
Yoshimura Chilao SS Details• 6061-T6 aluminum machined in USA
• Patented static spring preloader
• Triple outboard bearings
• 10 removable, 4mm tall pins each side
• Colors: YoshiKote, pewter, black and Ice
• Sizes: 110mm L x 107.25 W - LG (tested), 100mm L x 95.5 W - SM
• Thickness: 14mm
• Weight: 364g (actual)
• Price: $229, ($219 SM) USD
•
yoshimuracycling.com The Chilao SS will still be available in two platform sizes and four colors. Price-wise, and like most products these days, the cost has increased from $200 to $229 (size large), but Yoshimura believes that pedals shouldn’t be a disposable item. In fact, they’re backed by a limited lifetime warranty.
DetailsHopping back to the internals, the static spring is really the bread and butter of the pedal now. The majority of flat pedals feel great until they break in. Then it’s a constant battle to keep them spinning just enough so they don’t bind, but also don’t resonate when you give them a kick.
The SS aims to solve that issue permanently by keeping the bearings under a predefined load which is independent of the spindle lock nut torque. This design also minimizes side load on the triple cartridge bearings, single bushing, and seals if the pedal body is impacted.
Furthermore, the Chilao SS dons a new V-Ring seal that sits nicely in a machined seat, making it fool-proof to remove and reinstall without incident.
The body and end caps are machined from 6061-T6 while the pins are 7075-T6. A proprietary alloy steel is used for the spindle itself and then cerakoted for ultra-longevity. All of those parts are machined, laser etched, and anodized in Chino, California, USA.
DimensionsLike the original Chilao, the SS comes in the same two platform sizes; (110mm L x 107.25 W) for the large and (100mm L x 95.5 W) for the small. They use 10 pins per side whereas the small only holds 7. All M4 pins are the same length at 8mm and machined with a 3mm allen key head which stand a much better chance of staying square, versus a tiny 2mm, dirt-caked grub screw.
Both pedals measure 14mm thick at the leading and trailing edges. Additionally, that new spindle lends to a 3mm wider pedal Q-factor.
Price and WeightWith all of the clever workings tucked away, the Chilao SS’s pedal body is the nearly same shape and size, however, Yoshimura whittled away an extra 18g over the original pedal. That brings the size large Chilao SS to an even 360g per set, making them second lightest against the rest in our
flat pedal group test last spring, only outdone by 5DEV’s Trail/Enduro.
As for the price, it’s not easy on the wallet. All of those smart intervals may mean extra longevity, but it comes at a steep price of $229 USD ($219 USD - size small platform). Those numbers place them close to the top of the price range from that test, only to be outdone by the Canadian-made, North Shore Billet Daemons.
Included in that price are 5 replacement pins and the limited lifetime warranty that excludes wear items, such as bearings or pins. Replacement bearing kits go for $15 USD.
PerformanceAnother unique tidbit on the Chilao design is the angled front row of pedal pins for a claimed enhanced grip. To allow for a thin pedal body underfoot, Yoshimura has opted to cut down that middle bridge as much as possible, but leave the dreaded axle bulge on the inner and outer area over the spindle.
Yoshimura says that this cradles your foot, but I often found that to be a deterrent to my foot staying in place if my foot needed to be repositioned on the trail, particularly in wet conditions. I tend to ride slightly duck footed and with my feet towards the outer edge of the pedal.
When your foot is centered perfectly, there's an admirable grip with a thin, controlled feel. After heaps of time on various flat pedals, I’ll take a taller platform overall provided there is still decent concavity.
It’s worth mentioning that the grip did seem to be a smidge more than the original Chilao. That could be down to the extended Q-factor on the SS, the reworked pins, or a combination of the two.
DurabilityThe Chilaos showed up two months ago which isn’t enough time to judge their seemingly bulletproof design, but so far, they still feel the same as day one. Those slick internal workings have lept the grease looking fresh and the bearings spinning smoothly.
I did give one corner a good blow that resulted in a snapped pedal pin, but thankfully, as designed, that sheared off cleanly. The broken piece wound out cleanly and the new one installed without a hitch.
ComparisonTo decipher what pedals are truly grippy, I’ll often reach for less-tacky shoes. The two main factors that bring together a solid pedal are threaded pins and true concavity.
Along with the Yoshimura Chilao SSs, I’ve spent a solid amount of time on the Wolf Tooth Waveform pedal bodies. Each one offers a decent amount of concavity in the X and Y axis. Similarities could be drawn between the shapes of each, but I don’t believe there’s any copied homework going on here. There’s only so many ways to cut out a block of aluminum.
Hands down, the Chilao SS offers more grip with their threaded pins, but only when your foot is perfectly centered. It comes down to that raised area around the inner and outer axle port on the platform and that’s marginally taller on the Chilaos in respect to the overall concavity.
Pros
+ The ideal pins; threaded for max grip, snap cleanly, and are removable by a sizeable allen key from the protected side
+ Static spring retained low-friction, but not overly free spinning pedals, throughout test period
Cons
- Raised outer edge on end cap requires perfect foot placement to achieve maximum traction
- Quality comes at a higher price
Pinkbike's Take | Although it's still early to confidently evaluate the long-term durability of Yoshimura's novel Static Spring system on the new Chilao SS, they've evolved an already sound pedal. The grip and control is spot on when your foot is in that ideal groove, but that darn axle bump means there are other pedals out there with a uniform concavity that outshine the Chilao SS by a hair.—Matt Beer |
Well now I don’t know what to think… halp
“SS” stands for “static spring,” which is the critical part of the new patent-pending internal bearing preload system. The spring eliminates any lateral play between the pedal body and the spindle, no matter how worn out the spinning parts become."
A quality pedal has no such issue with adjusting ‘preload’ - stuff like wolf tooth, Pembree, etc
Most issues with pedals having a loose fee are bush wear, not ‘preload’.
Three bearings each side,no bushings,270 grams.
- The best unmentioned feature is that they do not roll under your feet when climbing tech. Seriously , those who know what I’m talking about know how bad that can be. The Chilao for some reason will not roll underfoot during climbs no matter how hard you push even if you have your foot in the wrong spot. Doesn’t make sense but it is absolutely repeatable.
-if you want the “most grippy pedal ” look elsewhere. For me I need to easily reposition my feet while riding gnarly stuff. Comparison, Kona wah was II is way too grippy where I can feel like I’m stuck with my foot crooked and can’t reposition. Chilao has just enough grip to feel confident but will allow me to float or reposition at will.
- pins shear off on impact. The pins hold up well, I’ve only had to replace a few over 2 years but they shear vs bend. Easy to replace and the pedal threads are not damaged.
- expensive, yes but cheaper than replacing plastic pedals (Chester’s, one ups) every few months because they start missing pieces after a few rides….. I went through 5 set of damaged pedals in a year before ponying up for chilaos. Do the math.
So far the Canfield crampon is my second favorite to the Chilao. The Crampon has the odd bump you can feel if you don’t have thick soled riding shoes, but is crazy thin, you don’t think about the bump once you’re really riding. Both have held up to extreme abuse and refuse to roll while climbing , give grip while allowing me to reposition without fear but the Chilao feels the best underfoot and goes pretty far between service intervals.
But em , you won’t regret it if you want a thin, medium grippy pedal that won’t roll under your foot.
And yes, I would love another set of chilaos for the endorsement and testing on my enduro race bike this fall!
Even if they don't work you'll have some spares.
Cheers!
I have a pair I got at the Sea Otter two years ago and they ended up being relegated to the DJ bike because I felt like the pins didn’t offer enough grip for DH or Enduro use.
(I'm literally building pedals as type this)
couple notes if anyone sees this.
pins have deep 3mm head, not 2.5
price clarity, 229lg/219sm
lifetime warranty
always staying in touch with people (some dont even have the pedals) at events and online, its so rad meeting people and getting feedback, keeping people stoked is the goal!
you get a thinner pedal, and larger bearing.
I'm not sure I understand, help me out here
My 510 freerider pros have zero traction on one up and crankbrothers composite. On deftraps im basically glued to the pedals.
just curious. I've had several people tell me that pedals such as the OneUp with the inside bearing bulge is a no go. I've always wondered, how that affects anyone, it might be that more people misunderstand.
So you prefer a flat or concave shape to a convex shape,
How does the shape of your foot, while wearing a stiff soled shoe have an effect?
If I'm doing a more commuter ride I wear normal freeriders and am not super picky about my pedal. If I'm riding mtb somewhere I might have to do some bailing or am just on and off the bike a ton I go with freerider pros and deftraps. Usually I ride clipped in for mtb though due to being so picky about pedal/shoe comfort.
not trolling, just trying to learn. I find fit issues interesting, especially when it comes to pedals. There always seems to be very adamant opinions about it, and Im always a bit curious from where they come from.
If I thought about it critically, most feet arent dead flat, not even close, most have a fairly pronounced arch, which is supported in our shoes to some degree. youd think, that unless you had the "ball" of your foot on the pedal, a slightly convex shape should provide more traction, not less.
I have "flatter" feet than most, and tend to ride with my foot more forward on my pedals (protecting weak ankles, using bone structure for support, rather than muscles and ligaments) so I seem to get along with most pedals. the concave shape would suggest a foot position thats further back on the pedals for other people....
I always assumed youd hit your ankle bone on the cranks before the inboard bearing would cause any issues.
This is one of those things where if it doesn't matter to you, good for you. Enjoy not being able to tell the difference, but some people it is night and day.
so you ride with the ball of your foot over the axle, similar to how a clipped in pedal would be set up for instance. That would make sense as to why youd want a concave pedal, and the bearing bulge might interfere. Have you tried a pedal similar to OneUp, that has the bearing bulge at the crank?
The “SS” = static spring, static means “does not move”
An upgrade and upcharge for a spring that doesn’t move?
I did see in the demo vid the pedal body seemed to move when smashed into the ground ??
Hope that brings some clarity... Cheers,
If that is correct why would a spring be best for countering the outboard directional forces that the bearings put on the nut?
I'm guessing if the force on the nut is great enough that is begins to loosen, that force will great enough to compress the spring, right? or is there something I'm missing?
I recently updated and modified DMR V12 [Mg]. Using a dremel removed remaining paint and casting imperfections.
Replaced with 8mm stainless pins. And got titanium axles with TiN coat on sale.
I bought these pedals almost 6 years ago (on sale). So 54eur for the Mg pedals and 26eur for the Ti axles - 80eur total!
Now I call them V13 !
Any guesses how much they weight now?
Who are these riders who are so one with the trail that they can divert precious concentration away from inadvertently starring in "Friday Fails" to worry about pedal slop? Not I.
For those not wanting to spend much get the TrailOne composite pedals for $50, great people and great product.
Also, Pops Yoshimura was a true Superbike tuning legend. One the other hand I ride plastic pedals. Unless they are on special at the Sea Otter....
www.yoshimura-rd.com/blogs/yoshimura-history/yoshimura-history-11-1976-1977-the-dawn-of-yoshimura-suzuki
hahaha
What? Kick how? Resonate?
No it don't. Quality comes in at about half that. Too much tech toos manies pennies