Mountain bike tires are pretty good these days, and we have near-endless choices when it comes to tread pattern, casing type, and weight. Actually, many brands offer what feels like dozens (it's often more) of options for just a single model, so finding the best version for you can be pretty confusing if you don't have your acronym dictionary handy. Maxxis' Aaron Chamberlain sat down with me while at Crankworx to talk about exactly that, as well as how many Minions they sell in a year (a crazy number), why some of their racers get tires that won't ever be for sale, and also why they can cost so damn much.
Got a question for Aaron? Post it in the comment section below and you might get an answer.
THE PINKBIKE PODCAST // EPISODE 138 - MAXXIS' AARON CHAMBERLAIN ON PRO-ONLY RUBBER, ALL THE MINIONS, & WHY TIRES COST SO MUCH August 13th, 2022
Why don't more tire companies make their own inserts?
Featuring a rotating cast of the editorial team and other guests, the Pinkbike podcast is a weekly update on all the latest stories from around the world of mountain biking, as well as some frank discussion about tech, racing, and everything in between.
This week's Pinkbike Podcast is presented by Yakima.
Have to say that this guy is a great rep for Maxxis. Knowledgeable, informative, articulate, honest and transparent. Makes me respect a company a lot when they have solid people.
Another great podcast. Interesting to learn about the sides of the industry that aren't so visible to us average consumers. Thanks and keep up the great work.
@ARonBurgundy: Enjoyed the transparacy. Talking with someone involved in car develpment a while back, he mentioned that a bunch of manufacturers in the premium sports car sector agreed to supply each other with their new cars when they were available, as they'd all be buying them anyway, and it saves the cost / hassle. Do tyre companies do the same?
@PawnSacrifice: thank you for listening. There is a bit of that with certain brands but for the most part we purchase what we need since it's not a huge cost - at least compared to sports cars.
Wow this was really incredible insight! Good questions from Levy and thank you @ARonBurgundy for all the informations you shared.
Aaron, what is your opinion on different casing front and rear? Usually to save some weight, many people use lighter casing in front and thicker in rear. I am the rare weirdo who always put the thicker one in front and lighter in back. Mostly because of better damping is important for me on front wheel and also in case of going flat, its a bit more safe to ride bike with flat rear tire than the front. Also there is a lower pressure in front and the front wheel so I think it needs more protection. What is your take on this?
Running different tires front to back is super common. We often see a wider, more aggressive tread on the front with something slightly narrower and faster rolling on the rear.
When using different casings we mostly see riders using the heavier duty casing on the rear with something one step lighter on the front. Common configurations would be: DH casing rear with DoubleDown (DD) front, DD rear with EXO+ front, or EXO+ rear with EXO front.
Your setup is less common but it sounds like it's working for your terrain and riding style. I'm not sure what the exact breakdown is but rear flats happen much more often than front flats since more of the rider's weight and energy is going into the rear wheel. Of course saying this I've probably jinxed myself and will have front flats on my next three rides.
Interesting listen. Since reading Henry’s article on inserts, I’ve been riding Rimpact pros with trail casing tires and have been enjoying them a lot.
But now I’m curious about going to a double down / super gravity / more enduro casing without inserts for the simplicity of set up. Weight nets out to about the same between both set ups.
Thanks for listening! One thing I forgot to mention and I’m kicking myself for is to talk about tire pressure. A couple extra PSI can go a long way towards protecting both your tire and rim. Again there’s a balance to be struck since higher pressures will impact traction and comfort, but experimenting with tire pressure is a great (and free) place to start.
Ironically I was listening to this podcast riding my gravel bike on a bike path (bone conducting headphones and I turn it off in busy areas) when i thought my rear wheel went out of true. Found that the sidewall of my 2 month old Maxxis Re-Fuse developed a massive bulge. Glad I was listening or I would have just chucked it, now I get to see how the Maxxis warranty department works.
Hey @mikelevy & @ARonBurgundy, I hate to be that guy but I gotta ask….is it technical or marketing reasons that you guys don’t make tan wall Double Downs? For the record, I’d be happier than a pig in sh!y for DD Assegai’s !
I believe it’s technically possible as we offered a tanwall Minion in a downhill casing in 26”. I think it’s more a case of not introducing another SKU.
For new tread patterns we do indeed have to cut a mold to produce rideable samples. That’s why we spend a lot of time on the 2D drawings and then 3D printouts first. We can always remove additional material from a mold if needed but if we go too deep initially the mold is useless.
If we’re working on prototype constructions or compounds, we can use existing molds.
@ARonBurgundy Great podcast. I was surprised Levy didn't get to one of the more pervasive rumors I've heard - are the white label OEM(?) spec tires actually any different from the aftermarket(?) yellow label tires?
I appreciate you taking the time to listen and ask a question. Spec for spec there is no difference between an OEM (white label tire) and an aftermarket (yellow label tire). The Maxxis yellow can clash with certain paint and graphics chosen by bike brands which is why we offer the white hot patch. For example, let’s say you bought a new bike with 29x2.5 Assegai in EXO+ casing with 3C MaxxTerra compound. Other than the hot patch (logo) color on the sidewall, there’s no difference between that and a yellow label tire you would find in a bike shop with the same specs.
Keeping that in mind… OE customers could theoretically order a spec that we don’t offer in the aftermarket. But that’s not very common and it’s usually on more entry level bikes.
@ARonBurgundy Rise were really great explanations of those topics! Any chance the Ardent Race will get a 2.4WT casing to go in the lineup with the Aspen and Rekon Race?
@ARonBurgundy I have a question on the maxxterra or maxxgrip compound. The base layer is the hardest but on a knob (example a central knob of a minion) where the top soft compound end and where the hard layer starts? To know when it's time to change the tire because you're riding only on the hard compound. Thanks
A few Qs that @mikelevy neglected to ask @ARonBurgundy ... - So what's the score with the "Maxxis wobble" that many of us have experienced? - What's the High Roller 2 really for? How about a version with higher edge knobs to fill the "a bit muddy but not too bad" gap in your line-up? - Why not just make more of the popular SKUs? e.g. I can only ever find DoubleDown Dissectors in MaxxGrip in the UK, not ideal for a rear tyre. We want the MaxxTerra or even DC versions please.
Thanks for the questions. Wobbles can be caused by a production issue or from mounting, particularly when using inserts. If a new tire has a wobble Maxxis will replace it under warranty. The process can vary a bit country to country but I would suggest contacting the point of purchase as a first step.
The High Roller II is for Jill Kintner and Bryn Atkinson. You won’t find bigger fans of that tread anywhere. Seriously though, it works pretty well in a broad range of conditions but really excels in loose/wet. It’s still one of our top sellers in the UK.
We make what our customers order and we don’t make just mountain bike tires. Also our production capacity is huge but not infinite so there’s a lot to balance. Thankfully, that’s not my job . That said - and I mentioned it in the podcast - we can and need to do a better job providing a clear product line.
@ARonBurgundy sorry this is a few days late - I've been told by a bike shop that Maxxis advise against running inserts (notably cushcore) it creates friction which can delaminate the tire, particularly at the point where the tread pattern adheres to the sidewall of the tire which I've had happen on one occasion with Maxxis (wasn't an actual problem riding, just looked weird). Is there any truth to this? - The same shop also said Maxxis also advised against inserts because of the wobble issue, and they also advised against using tire levers to install tires for the same reason. I've not seen this documented anywhere apart from your above comments saying that it's a contributing factor
@roberthavill: inserts can complicate mounting for sure. If you choose to use inserts we recommend using dish soap or something similar to coat the insert before mounting. This will help the insert slide against the inside of the tire and allow the tire bead to seat properly.
We also recommend only using tire levers if absolutely necessary, especially when an insert is involved. If you need to use tire levers, take your time and only work on a small section of the bead at a time to avoid putting too much stress on the bead.
@ARonBurgundy: High Roller 3 in the making? Remember an "what would you like to see in a updated HR2"-post on instagram from Bryn Atkinson a while back.
Maxxis production happens in Taiwan. But to your point, that’s pretty much our only option as you can’t just pick up and move a factory easily. Also, many of the raw materials for our tires are sourced from Southeast Asia so even if we had factories elsewhere we’d face higher shipping costs to get those materials.
Aaron, what is your opinion on different casing front and rear?
Usually to save some weight, many people use lighter casing in front and thicker in rear. I am the rare weirdo who always put the thicker one in front and lighter in back. Mostly because of better damping is important for me on front wheel and also in case of going flat, its a bit more safe to ride bike with flat rear tire than the front. Also there is a lower pressure in front and the front wheel so I think it needs more protection.
What is your take on this?
Running different tires front to back is super common. We often see a wider, more aggressive tread on the front with something slightly narrower and faster rolling on the rear.
When using different casings we mostly see riders using the heavier duty casing on the rear with something one step lighter on the front. Common configurations would be: DH casing rear with DoubleDown (DD) front, DD rear with EXO+ front, or EXO+ rear with EXO front.
Your setup is less common but it sounds like it's working for your terrain and riding style. I'm not sure what the exact breakdown is but rear flats happen much more often than front flats since more of the rider's weight and energy is going into the rear wheel. Of course saying this I've probably jinxed myself and will have front flats on my next three rides.
Sherpy the Shiba is doing pretty well! Old AF, blind, and 100% deaf but probably the most well-behaved Shiba out there now haha
But now I’m curious about going to a double down / super gravity / more enduro casing without inserts for the simplicity of set up. Weight nets out to about the same between both set ups.
If we’re working on prototype constructions or compounds, we can use existing molds.
Keeping that in mind… OE customers could theoretically order a spec that we don’t offer in the aftermarket. But that’s not very common and it’s usually on more entry level bikes.
Can I get a white patch tire in aftermarket?
Thanks
- So what's the score with the "Maxxis wobble" that many of us have experienced?
- What's the High Roller 2 really for? How about a version with higher edge knobs to fill the "a bit muddy but not too bad" gap in your line-up?
- Why not just make more of the popular SKUs? e.g. I can only ever find DoubleDown Dissectors in MaxxGrip in the UK, not ideal for a rear tyre. We want the MaxxTerra or even DC versions please.
The High Roller II is for Jill Kintner and Bryn Atkinson. You won’t find bigger fans of that tread anywhere. Seriously though, it works pretty well in a broad range of conditions but really excels in loose/wet. It’s still one of our top sellers in the UK.
We make what our customers order and we don’t make just mountain bike tires. Also our production capacity is huge but not infinite so there’s a lot to balance. Thankfully, that’s not my job . That said - and I mentioned it in the podcast - we can and need to do a better job providing a clear product line.
- I've been told by a bike shop that Maxxis advise against running inserts (notably cushcore) it creates friction which can delaminate the tire, particularly at the point where the tread pattern adheres to the sidewall of the tire which I've had happen on one occasion with Maxxis (wasn't an actual problem riding, just looked weird). Is there any truth to this?
- The same shop also said Maxxis also advised against inserts because of the wobble issue, and they also advised against using tire levers to install tires for the same reason. I've not seen this documented anywhere apart from your above comments saying that it's a contributing factor
We also recommend only using tire levers if absolutely necessary, especially when an insert is involved. If you need to use tire levers, take your time and only work on a small section of the bead at a time to avoid putting too much stress on the bead.
I like to take some risks here and there.
Thanks!