If you've been on the homepage lately, you've probably seen us going on and on about the latest Field Test video review series, this time with enduro and eMTBs. Just as with previous examples, this Field Test was all about comparing test bikes to each other, a cage match of sorts but on the trail, and the fleet included some of the most interesting bikes on the market. Of course, the pickings were a bit slim this year given the lack of bikes anywhere, but our goal was to represent a spectrum of what's available, from the efficient We Are One to the heavy-hitting Norco Range. And the same goes for the eMTBs, with the relatively lightweight Specialized Turbo Kenevo SL contrasting the chonky Range VLT and its 900Wh battery.
As you might guess, there's plenty to talk about with a test fleet like that. Today's show sees Kazimer and myself ask Matt Beer and Henry Quinney a ton of questions; we expand on the reviews, choose favorites, answer some reader questions, talk about how they'd make the bikes better, and you know we have to cover the Huck to Flat's broken crank...
THE PINKBIKE PODCAST // EPISODE 82 - BEHIND THE SCENES AT FIELD TEST Sep 24th, 2021
Idler pulleys, giant batteries, and a broken crank.
Featuring a rotating cast of the editorial team and other guests, the Pinkbike podcast is a weekly update on all the latest stories from around the world of mountain biking, as well as some frank discussion about tech, racing, and everything in between.
Hey @mikelevy If you're looking for topics I'd like to see a discussion on places to save a few dollars. I'm a frugal guy and am always looking for alternative products that can be used instead of the (usually pricey) stuff you find in your local bike shop. I tend to shop for automotive cleaners, greases and oils - way cheaper. I also have purchased a lot of tools and misc products through aliexpress (rotors, master link pliers, hydraulic hose fittings, dropper levers, seatpost collars, stems etc) for a fraction of what the equivalent product would cost at the LBS. I've also had a couple spectacular failures with this approach (snapped a flimsy carbon bar and a crankset that didn't hold up) so it would be good to get some opinions on where the savings are worth it. Another place I've saved a few $$ is by buying bearing directly from a bearing manufacturer vs. a frame bearing kit.
You guys have been in the industry forever - what the best money saving 'hacks' you have heard of or used?
PB content is getting smarter all the time. Some of the stuff the bike testers are saying in the reviews and in the comments speaks to a lot of thoughtfulness and integrity. This in the face of every marketing assistant in the industry trying to transmogrify every petty distinction between products into a meaningful ride-changing difference, and the whole peanut gallery that demands that everything and every one be rigidly ranked into some kind of pecking order. At some point, the smarter you get the smaller the claims one tends to make, the less one acts like they know it all or have seen it all. I'm curious to see how this trend goes for you, PB.
We'll be ok as long as we can still get all our information from a mechanical engineer in the comments
Just chiming in as someone who has had to do a lot of futzing with internal brake routing. My experience with internal brake routing has me in full disagree mode with Henry. In the last year I broke my chain stay and downtube on my trek slash (don’t buy a trek, the won’t warranty it even if it self destructs through the knock block system.) I had to cut the brake line and reroute my brakes when I got my borrowed chainstay while I waited for the warranty and then again when the warranty came in. I then needed to do the same when I had to send my bike to carbon repair and build it back up. Now that I am on a spire I am super happy changing brakes is easy. Maybe just don’t buy a trek so you can avoid the issue all together, but having to reroute brake cables often is a pain in the ass.
I bought a trek really recently because I'd heard the warranty is good! What exactly happened to your bike and with the warranty claim? I'd like to be ready for any potential issues coming my way!
I'd also be curious, I had a weld fail on a 15 year old frame and trek took very good care of me, replacing with the equivalent frameset / MSRP in store credit. Perhaps the difference between a clear cut material failure and something defined as user error/crash replacement?
@everythingscomingupmilhouse: Good question. they are good with warranties depending on the issue. What happened to me was that my fork hit my frame when I stuffed it in a compression and compromised the carbon. The knock block was designed to protect this and failed to do so. That was not covered by warranty despite the fact that the bike self destructed and it was the company's fault that the frame was totaled. I was also passed around in the warranty department and basically told to pound sand. Even with the price of their slight discount for crash replacement Replacing my carbon frame was still slated to cost me more than bicycle blue book value of the whole bike. If you have a 2021 slash or newer you should be fine because the fork doesn't come close to the downtube. I was not so lucky. As an employee at the shop put it; Trek Warranty covers defects not design flaws.
@zanda23: that sucks! Knock block has always worried me! It's such a weird feature, they should definitely stand by it if the knock block fails and the frame gets damaged. I have heard this story before but only with carbon so I'm hoping my alloy frame might be ok. Anyway hope you got it sorted in the end
@everythingscomingupmilhouse: You should be good I bet. Aluminum is better for impacts anyway. if you dont careen into a compression like I did the bike should be good. I liked it a lot otherwise.
Something that I haven't seen come up other than in the comments with respect to the price of the We Are One is that the "cheapest" one spec for spec is actually quite competitive with other bikes with similar specs. This suggests to me that once WAO gets better access to a wider array of parts they could do a fox performance/slx build that would come in at a much more reasonable price.
A guy in Valemount let me throw a leg over his Arrival in the parking lot and it looked amazing and light with all the high end parts. That being said it's overkill for my smashing down the hill. Cant wait for a more every-day SLX type build. I'll be all over it.
Pinkbike ! @mikelevy@henryquinney@mattbeer Can you include in future field tests a previous winner from a few years ago where the bikes where different enough, you know, old geo, 26” (maybe even external cable routing) etc to really give us an appreciation for how good bikes are now, would be fun to see how they compare in times and what the test riders have to say ?
I would love to try and track down some of the bikes that the tech-editors adored when they first came out. I remember I had a 2009 Marin Attack Trail that I thought was amazing... would love to see how I feel about it now. I'm sure everyone of us has a similar bike in their history.
Would really like to see the DH bike comparison for future enduro field tests. I am thinking on some of the trails the Enduro's are winning over a full on DH rig.
I'll start by saying you guys are massively entertaining so thanks for that. You guys are front-and-center for people's bike buying decisions possibly more than you realize. Dealers and brands often have to deal with customers thinking they need some gargantuan reach number for "speed" and "stability." You guys and gals also collectively remain one of the last publications standing that clamors for ever-larger bikes (reaches). Many other publications have dialled it back and also had articles about how your bike is probably too big, I am still reading and hearing how the YT was 'conservative' and should be rad and fit some imaginary version of their PR image. Possibly, they simply want to continue making bikes that ride well.
Here in the northeast, and all over the EWS series, Enduro-pro-bros (guys actually out racing pro, not praying for a Strava top-20 on the weekend) are downsizing and simply riding the bikes that fit and give them the confidence they need to ride fast.
Then there is the fact that nobody seems to talk about: why Enduro bikes have a longer reach than DH bikes? DH bikes are the more-capable big-brother to enduro yet those reach numbers are often smaller within the same manufacturer's range. Let's talk about this. And I understand that slacker = front wheel out further.
I have been riding, racing, wrenching and involved in the industry for over 25 years now. I am 5'8" on a good morning and also drank the long-reach Kool-aid riding large bikes for a few years and have since dialed my reach numbers back on my enduro bike to hopefully make it a little more nimble in those oh-shit-I-need-to-change-direction-now moments.
I am also 190-195 pounds geared up to ride and I am built similar to a brick. One thing I have considered, also being in the winter sports industry, is how weight could play into bike fitment similar to how it does with ski and board sizing. Obviously, floatation and flex is not a consideration for mountain bikes but it does make me wonder how it could affect sizing choice with such a large ballast of weight transferring fore and aft. A large weight vs/ a smaller weight shifting in a small pocket could make a small bike nervous for a heavy rider but maybe not for a lighter one.
Food for thought. Thanks for the entertainment and a great assembly of personalities.
Regarding external brake routing - I absolutely agree with Henry.
In this day and age bikes should have internal routing - those who need to change brakes alot are surely a minority !
I am really impressed with Transition bikes - but this is a deal breaker for me.
I think Lee's RAD formula is OK for tight trails & jumping but doesn't make sense for faster, steeper riding where you need a bigger sweet spot to help with control. My new bike has 20mm longer reach than my old bike that was too long by Lee's formula but it suits well for the terrain I ride. You can't make assumptions on fit without considering usage.
And at the end of the article the author gives Ritchie Rude's bike as an example of a 6 footer riding a medium but we know that he can make that bike do whatever he wants and doesn't need that as big sweet spot as most riders.
@FensterM, I disagree with a large portion of that article, and with Lee McCormack's RAD equation. I've ridden a huge range of bike over the last ten years and by and large I'm very happy with today's modern geometry. Have some companies gone further than they needed to in regards to reach? Sure, but overall I'd say we're in a very good place, and I don't really see any reason to try and convince other riders that they're on the wrong size bikes.
I also hate when professional athletes are used as examples of what's supposed to be right. "Joe Pro rides a medium and he's 6'5", so that's what everybody should do" doesn't work for me. Professional athletes need to ride what their sponsors provide, which is why you see so many angle and reach adjusting headsets being used. As a consumer, if a bike doesn't feel good during a test ride it's easy enough to try an option from another brand that won't need as many fit adjustments.
@mikekazimer@mikelevy It's great that you guys touch on geo often, but I think RAD has its place for someone to size out their first mountain bike. Is that fair?
RAD is understood the best in (and directly influences) the Row/Anti-Row. In a full on Row, where the bars are pulled close to the hips w/ fully extended arms, a rider loses leverage close to the end of the Row on too long a reach bike (arms have to bend). Whereas on a smaller reach frame, a rider can get the bars right up against the hips with fully extended arms. But how often is the Avg Joe doing a full row trail riding? So, for someone 5'10" deciding between a medium/large, I'd ask, what does your local terrain demand? Tight and techy I'd go towards a medium. Wide open fast trails, towards a large? Bike park, jumping, maybe medium again? These are all considerations people should be making when purchasing a mountain bike. But I sure as hell wasn't 8 years ago when I started riding. I just wanted a bike.
And on top of that, the difference between reach sizes is often "only" 25mm. But seat tube lengths vary wildly between sizes, which also affects bike fit for people with standover issues. Not to mention tons of other nuances that only bike nerds and engineers froth about. Enter RAD. A one stop shop equation to size a bike, for someone who doesn't sweat the details.
Question for next podcast: It might be a bit taboo to talk about the new Outside+ membership right now but what benefit is there for any customer outside the US? No subscriptions or print issue. I always subscribed to BIKE in order to to have something tangible to hold on to, I see a hole in the market that Outside could fill and help sweeten the change for us northerners.
Never been so happy to have passed on a sweet price on a pair of e13 carbon cranks...that I was going to buy from @mattbeer on the buysell. I thought to myself "this guy is a pro...he's either beat them to hell or he's broken carbon cranks". Amazing to hear many years later that is exactly what happened.
What is your problem with bar-stem units? They are only fitted to the 10000+$ bikes. Nobody who buys these bikes cares if they have to replace them with something else in case the fit is not perfect. Such expensive bikes need to cool like they are from the future.
I think I remember @mikekazimer saying in the past that they would love to review Evil bikes but they have never had one long term. If they get one it shows up and ships out pretty quick.
Maybe next year, you could have Matt and Henry both do the timed DH runs, it would be interesting to see if the order of fastest to slowest is the same or reversed.
Great to have @henryquinney on the podcast. He shakes things up and clearly does not have the same corporate mtb industry/sea2sky dork feeding tube that Brian park, Mike Levy and Mike kazimer have.
What! A field test without Kaz? What has happened to Pinkbike?? Then you have him on the podcast??? He's been talking about all these E-bikes he's been riding, and no one shells out the goods on longer travel bikes like Kazimer does. Then hes not even in the tests. Truly disappointing. Henry and Matt need to take a seat and let the OG's run the show. Keep it up Mike & Mike.
There aren't a lot of tires out there, and we needed 20+ of them. I've always liked the DHR2 upfront - tons of braking traction, of course. The Dissector for a rear tire isn't my favorite.
@sambobcat: I agree with Levy. To be fair, the Dissector in the DH casing was actually pretty good. I'm probably somebody that would tend to lean to a DHR2 front and back setup, but the Dissector did do everything asked of it and rolled pretty fast to boot. It went well for Sun Peaks but does teeter on being at risk of being a little overwhelmed in conditions that aren't so dry, dusty and fast.
I completely agree with Henry on the Transition rear brake cable. I hated the look of it when I rode it. Zip ties on a premium carbon bike frame put me off buying the Sentinel. Bike only looks good from one side
I’m guessing they saw that very few users were engaging with the POD and VOD. No use keeping something like that around, which turns out to be a lot of work to prepare every day, if no one is engaging. I could be mistaken though!
@BiNARYBiKE: Totally, perhaps I'm optimistic in thinking with a refresh and some new hype they could be brought back to life in a good way. I think they were so valuable for new up and coming creatives in an industry already difficult to make a name for yourself. but based on the downvotes, maybe its time for us up and comers to find a new avenue and adapt to the removal of POD/VOD.
I feel like @mattbeer needs to relax and be himself on video and audio. Matt has the chops as a reviewer, he just needs to relax and let the Beer flow.
If you're looking for topics I'd like to see a discussion on places to save a few dollars. I'm a frugal guy and am always looking for alternative products that can be used instead of the (usually pricey) stuff you find in your local bike shop. I tend to shop for automotive cleaners, greases and oils - way cheaper. I also have purchased a lot of tools and misc products through aliexpress (rotors, master link pliers, hydraulic hose fittings, dropper levers, seatpost collars, stems etc) for a fraction of what the equivalent product would cost at the LBS. I've also had a couple spectacular failures with this approach (snapped a flimsy carbon bar and a crankset that didn't hold up) so it would be good to get some opinions on where the savings are worth it. Another place I've saved a few $$ is by buying bearing directly from a bearing manufacturer vs. a frame bearing kit.
You guys have been in the industry forever - what the best money saving 'hacks' you have heard of or used?
Can you include in future field tests a previous winner from a few years ago where the bikes where different enough, you know, old geo, 26” (maybe even external cable routing) etc to really give us an appreciation for how good bikes are now, would be fun to see how they compare in times and what the test riders have to say ?
Even for bikepark days enduro bike with dropper and wide cassette super beneficial, since you do not wanna limmit yourself
Here in the northeast, and all over the EWS series, Enduro-pro-bros (guys actually out racing pro, not praying for a Strava top-20 on the weekend) are downsizing and simply riding the bikes that fit and give them the confidence they need to ride fast.
Then there is the fact that nobody seems to talk about: why Enduro bikes have a longer reach than DH bikes? DH bikes are the more-capable big-brother to enduro yet those reach numbers are often smaller within the same manufacturer's range. Let's talk about this. And I understand that slacker = front wheel out further.
I have been riding, racing, wrenching and involved in the industry for over 25 years now. I am 5'8" on a good morning and also drank the long-reach Kool-aid riding large bikes for a few years and have since dialed my reach numbers back on my enduro bike to hopefully make it a little more nimble in those oh-shit-I-need-to-change-direction-now moments.
I am also 190-195 pounds geared up to ride and I am built similar to a brick. One thing I have considered, also being in the winter sports industry, is how weight could play into bike fitment similar to how it does with ski and board sizing. Obviously, floatation and flex is not a consideration for mountain bikes but it does make me wonder how it could affect sizing choice with such a large ballast of weight transferring fore and aft. A large weight vs/ a smaller weight shifting in a small pocket could make a small bike nervous for a heavy rider but maybe not for a lighter one.
Food for thought. Thanks for the entertainment and a great assembly of personalities.
Your corporate overlords say that mountain bikes are too long and too slack and everyone is on the wrong size. Thoughts?
@mikelevy @mikekazimer
And at the end of the article the author gives Ritchie Rude's bike as an example of a 6 footer riding a medium but we know that he can make that bike do whatever he wants and doesn't need that as big sweet spot as most riders.
I also hate when professional athletes are used as examples of what's supposed to be right. "Joe Pro rides a medium and he's 6'5", so that's what everybody should do" doesn't work for me. Professional athletes need to ride what their sponsors provide, which is why you see so many angle and reach adjusting headsets being used. As a consumer, if a bike doesn't feel good during a test ride it's easy enough to try an option from another brand that won't need as many fit adjustments.
RAD is understood the best in (and directly influences) the Row/Anti-Row. In a full on Row, where the bars are pulled close to the hips w/ fully extended arms, a rider loses leverage close to the end of the Row on too long a reach bike (arms have to bend). Whereas on a smaller reach frame, a rider can get the bars right up against the hips with fully extended arms. But how often is the Avg Joe doing a full row trail riding? So, for someone 5'10" deciding between a medium/large, I'd ask, what does your local terrain demand? Tight and techy I'd go towards a medium. Wide open fast trails, towards a large? Bike park, jumping, maybe medium again? These are all considerations people should be making when purchasing a mountain bike. But I sure as hell wasn't 8 years ago when I started riding. I just wanted a bike.
And on top of that, the difference between reach sizes is often "only" 25mm. But seat tube lengths vary wildly between sizes, which also affects bike fit for people with standover issues. Not to mention tons of other nuances that only bike nerds and engineers froth about. Enter RAD. A one stop shop equation to size a bike, for someone who doesn't sweat the details.
Hump
Second: Please do bring back VOD.