Vitus Releases New Dominer 297 DH Bike

 I'm only 5'16".

 @bigtim: 4'28"*

 @bigtim: name checks out..

 @davemays: wut? starts with 4, midget

edit: oops i thought you were replying to franko

 XL with a 480 reach??!! Is this a joke

480 reach is for someone up to 6ft 1 MAX

 Knollys borrowed it too

 My first mtb was a giant strata, memory is foggy but that may have had the same/similar top tube

 khs guys do be livin' in the future

 As ugly as it is, and as glad as I am that the front hump has gone out of style, someone was telling me that the FEA shows that with welds, the hump actually helps distribute loads across the length of the top tube better. A big problem with welded top tubes is the uneven distribution of forces along the weld, and you can get load spikes that cause cracks.

 Also too STINKY for me

 I ride my enduro and think it's as good ad my DH, and then I get back on the DH and say WTF was I thinking.

 @WordBikes: sorry downvoted before I finish reading

 @WordBikes: Different tools for different jobs. DH bikes are for smashing.

 Vitus is actually selling them as opposed to all the prototyping on a bunch of others.

 is there a reason 12x150 exists at all, when 12x148 is the more common hub?

 @flattire: 135 and 142 are the same width and so are 150 and 157. Both latter sizes add 3.5mm both ends for the caps to rest in the dropouts to facilitate installation. I don't think there is a 141mm hub, so 148mm minus the supports. But yeah, 148 and 150 can't be compared.

 @flattire: @vinay If I remember correctly the 150 was first, and is used as a DH "standard"
The disc moiunting surface isnt in the same location, its centered (again, memory) for a more equal spoke distance to the rim.
Also stops people putting from putting the wheel from their more XC bike on their DH rig, and, well having it fail.

The 12 x 150 is a very practical standard for DH bikes.
the 12 x 148 is a practical standard for trail and enduro bikes, as was 12 x 142 at the time.
and the 12 x 157 is a practical solution for increased tire clearance for those that want to run high volume tires. All of those make practical sense

 @vinay: 141 exists. It is a boost dropout with QR axles. I've only ever seen it on entry level Trek mtbs. Although some other brands may also use it.

www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/mountain-bikes/trail-mountain-bikes/roscoe/roscoe-6/p/33192

 @flattire: 12x150 has been on dh bikes since the early 2000s so I would say its been way more common for a lot longer the 12x148

 @jaredmh: at least a few Norco fluid HT hardtails had it

 @jlauteam1: cannondale too

 It’s not just the hub width that’s different between these hubs, it’s the flange spacing.

FYI, 12 x 142 is the original DH hub spacing, from waaay back when 135 was the trail spacing.

 @sanchofula: This is the first time I've heard this explanation. It is not the way I remember it when the 12x142 standard was introduced a decade ago or so, but it is a nice addition to this discussion.

 @sanchofula: 12x150mm was used on DH bikes long before 12x142 was introduced. 12x142 quickly took over the market in trail bikes and then XC bikes because it was still 135mm between the dropout faces and with the same brake mount spacing. Frame manufacturers could reuse their frame designs with just a rear dropout swap, and many existing hubs could be converted from 135 to 142 with just an endcap swap. For a while, most good hubs were sold as 135/142 and many frame had swappable dropout inserts too. The new 12x142 spec was one of those rare bright spots in spec changes that was great for almost everyone, and lots of high-end parts weren't suddenly obsolete.

12x142 brought thru-axle to the masses in trail and xc bikes, but it was still 15mm narrower than the established DH spec of 12x150 and had little impact on DH bikes.

12x157 was later introduced for DH bikes and following the same idea. It is still 150mm between the dropout faces, brake mount spacing is the same as 12x150, and many wheels and frames can be converted over. Pivot confused things a bit with their 157 "Super Boost". but its the same overall size just with one spoke flange moved closer to the disc mount and doesn't affect how the wheel fits the frame, other than spoke clearance. This is also when they started introducing trail bikes with wheel spacing that had previously only been popular on DH bikes and starting that trend.

Somewhere in the middle had been 148mm Boost, which took the 142mm design and bumped it out to 148mm for trail bikes. But its still 9mm narrower than the 150/157mm DH spec

 @showmethemountains: Thanks, is what I tried to say but I think your story is more clear.

 @showmethemountains: perfectly explained, thank you! In essence, 12x148 and 12x150 hubs can’t be used on the same frame, but a 12x150 hub capable of converting to 12x157 DH can be used on the newest frames with 12x157 Superboost.

 @hitarpotar: If there are endcaps that allow you to do so. DT Swiss, Hope etc do have endcaps so if you had one of their hubs in 135x10, you could convert them to 142x12 by just swapping endcaps. So the same goes for 150 to 157. If the hubs are Shimano it won't be so easy.

 @vinay: i’m on Eastons Havoc Front is 20x110 which os fine, rear is 12x150, but i’ve managed to get my hands on full additional endcaps for 12x157 together with an Xd-driver i sourced from a scandinavian country.

 Question is whether a dropper will fit in the ST. And climbing a 7 speed isn't the easiest thing.

 @Snowytrail: a 150mm dropper is supposed to be just fine on a medium. A 170 dropper is a lil big, but still doable if you’re taller. Also no problem to change the cassette to a wider range one, probably with the derailleur.

 Did you mistype that 2008 by any chance. Needs total revamp..

 @bat-fastard: Pinkbike be like:

Bike expensive: This thing is great but only if the price was lower...

Bike cheap and good value: BuT thEre'S A kInk iN The tOptuBe!!!!!!!!!

 @Roost66: Just what I was thinking! I would ride this bike.

 @bat-fastard: this frame was released in 2016. 2018 saw a little mod in the geo, with 15-20mm longer reach and toptube. Think in 2020 they moved the model to a metric shock. Now it’s mullet. Very good suspension performance, good geo, not a pig weight-wise, it’s cheap enough - it’s good

 @Roost66: and it doesn’t have a Boxxer Uktimate or a Fox 40!!!!!

Honestly you’d think people would be happy for an affordable and robust DH bike. Especially seeing as everyone on here moans that there are no new bikes under $10k and none of those are DH bikes.

 @hitarpotar: it's call sarcasm, it looks like something from 2008. Them tubes are hideous. Sons Kona stinky from 2004 is easier on the eye. Its a simple 4 bar link, easy to build cheaply with straight tubes welded together. Might actually cost less again than hydroforming. For a cheap park bike 27.5 front n back is better, more fun and some are mini mulleting them with 26 on rear as they turn better in the flowy berm stuff.

 @bat-fastard: i’m on a 2016 iteration and am running it in full 26er mode until i destroy the rims entirely (27.5 ones waiting in the shed).

 Yeh and it's bonkers that all the USA flaggers on here be like bro bikes are so much better now and anyway it's only 100% more than it was in the past

 Looks like it!

 Most DH bikes look odd when they’re not sagged.

 It's probably a catalogue frame made by Astro

 Do you even know what you're talking about? If you move the lower mount forward it would make it more linear. A few other DH bikes use similar configurations to get the progression needed for a coil shock.

 @JohSch: this ain’t really a bad thing. They’re making entry level DH bikes that are sturdy and reliable when most others are pulling out of the DH market or just making bikes that are twice the price.

 @Joecx: yes, I do. Their suspension design accomplishes a linear leverage ratio while looking like it should be progressive based on its static side profile but when you account for the corotation at the seatstay it redered the lev ratio linear. Ive run the frame through linkage design. Unlike yourself who just runs their mouth. So i guess it accomplishes what it set out to do. Make rubes like you think this suspension design does something it does not.

 @freestyIAM: Do you really think the CHAINSTAY yoke rotation is going to effect the leverage curve significantly? Most likely it moves forward a few mm at bottom out and has a few % effect total leverage.

It seems that you are the one running his mouth as a self proclaim authority on suspension design.

 @Joecx: I don't think it effects the lev curve significantly. I know it does because I put the frame through linkage design. It's not a matter of opinion, or whether you or I think the effect would be significant based on your or my intuition. It's doing the actual work and seeing the results. Go do the same and convince yourself. If you are not able to because you don't have the skill then STFU and let the adults talk.

 @freestyIAM: So STFU and let the "adults talk".

 @freestyIAM: have you ridden one, or just computer says no?

 @freestyIAM: a more linear suspension would mean it’s better for an air shock. Which is fine by me as i’m running a Vivid Air on mine - it’s great on the trails, active enough on small bumps and during braking, and actually shaves some 350-400g from the total weight.

 Allows engineers to fit a shock of a given stroke in a smaller end-to-end space in the frame.

 people not being able to use their old shocks

 Longest Eye to eye measurement possible for a given frame. This helps engineers tailor leverage rate easier.

 They really highlight wonky frames. If your trunnion shit craps itself really quickly you can tell that your frame isn’t straight.

Also it means you canmt keep your old shock

 The shock runs against actual ball bearing instead of plastic bearing in the shock's eyelets. This issue doesn't get enough attention. Mechanically it's the right way to do that.

 The G2 RE's are a decent budget option - it's a Code caliper with a G2 lever. Much better than a set of 'regular' G2's.

 @mikekazimer: Im pretty heavy (95kgs) amd run them one my enduro bike, and they are great - very strong. Not Cura4 strong, but plenty strong enough

 @mikekazimer: I’m currently just over 100kg (Dadbod) and have some cheap Guides that stop me just fine (on 180mm rotors). They’re not perfect and will be replaced once they die, but it’s a budget bike so they have to save. Obey somewhere.

I know it’s more expensive than 2020 but so is literally everything now.

 You mean that Vitus is using the same catalog frame as KHS used to.

 Astro catalogue frame, all these brands are using these open mould frames

 hahaha

 It's French I believe (google result).

 I’m at under 36lbs on mine with a Dorado fork, Vivid Air shock, heavy brakes and absolutely no carbon parts anywhere on the bike!

 @hitarpotar: how is that possible? what wheelset and tires are you running?

 @11six: Easton Havoc UST 26er wheels (but i have I9 27.5 rims waiting for lacing, which will keep the wheelset’s weight the same or even make it a tad lighter), and Maxxis EXO 26er tires which are stronger than today’s EXOs - will probably go to DD tires once the 27.5 project is a reality. This will probably add another 300-400g to the complete build - i’ve done the math!

 See: Ibis.

 I don't mind it at all.

 Stand-over height

 Astro catalogue frame